Coolant Level Tracking

[Sunline Fan]

Rather than post in a random thread, I thought it would be better to provide an accurate account in a dedicated thread.

11/28/12: I found the coolant level was a bit low, when doing an oil change.

Here's my current coolant level, at just over 3400 miles. I didn't think to check it when it was brand new, but I think it has dropped from what it originally was.
Attachment 9178

I stopped by the dealer and had it topped off at 3475 miles, 11/29/12:

Here's the now cool level after the dealer filled it today. 3475 miles. The coolant isn't fully cold, I actually put my hand on the tank and it was still a luke warm, even though it hasn't run in about six hours. I did unscrew the cap and put it back on prior to taking the pic, so I confirmed there was no pressure built up.

We'll see how it goes from here:

And as of today, at 3933 miles, and has been sitting all weekend since Friday afternoon:



I'm hoping it blew off the extra coolant and is staying about the same at this level. It was around this same spot about a week ago, but I didn't update here.

[hawkeye]

Great pictures. I can finally see the arrow. I don't know i missed it before. My coolant level is all the way down at the bottom of the tank-just above the hose on the bottom of the tank. I was going to take it in for the waterpump, thermostat, bolts, and seals in the bulletin, but I may just take it back up to the mark and see what happens. It seems like the new pump may not be the answer. I have a 2011 that I have never added any coolant to, and it's a little over 2years and 20,000 miles.

[obermd]

I lost about half the tank before it stabilized. As a result I suspect there are air bubbles in the coolant system when the cars are shipped.

[jblackburn]

Same. Mine was almost empty and had it filled up at the dealer when my car was in for warranty work. It's been stable ever since.

Some of these cars have 4 miles on them when you buy them. I kinda doubt they're warmed up to full operating temp before shipped off so the coolant never has time to get through the whole system. They likely just start them and drive through a 5 min test to make sure they don't explode and put them on a truck.


Sent from my iPhone using AutoGuide.com App

[hawkeye]

I won't worry, then, and will just watch the level. On another note, can the cap be over or under tightened? I put it back on and it started getting really tight, so I backed it off 1/2 a turn.

[Sunline Fan]

I won't worry, then, and will just watch the level. On another note, can the cap be over or under tightened? I put it back on and it started getting really tight, so I backed it off 1/2 a turn.

It is a very stiff cap with lots of threads. I'd go until you can't turn it any more. I seem to remember it got easy and then hard, or the other way around. The cap won't be able to hold the full 20 PSI if it isn't tight.

[obermd]

Just be careful you don't cross-thread the cap. Apparently it's easy to cross-thread the coolant cap.

[hawkeye]

Thanks. I'm glad I checked it again. It tightened to a clear stop.

[Sunline Fan]

Update @ 4488, taken just now after having cooled since 5:00. Very very slight drop, but nothing really significant.

[v8318cid]

Not sure about cross-threading, but I would be willing to wager that many of these caps were defective to begin with. I had the same issue with coolant loss as many others here, and of course the dealer could not find the source. Went through the dye test and what not, and even had that slop job hose TSB implemented to "eliminate the coolant smell from the cabin". Yeah, that went over like a lead balloon. The adhesive they used to attach the hose to the degas tank failed after 2 hours, so I had the dealer remove it on the next visit. In the end, the problem was linked to the cap, which was unable to hold the stated pressures and was allowing coolant to vent. This was, of course, not long after having my radiator replaced due to either a cracked tank or failed tank seal (not sure which...).