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How-To: Replace Turbo Oil Feed Line

127K views 60 replies 33 participants last post by  AutumnCruzeRS 
#1 · (Edited)
How-To: Replace Turbo Oil Feed Line


Overview:
The turbo oil feed line has a tendency to leak at the engine block seal after about 50,000 miles or 3 years. The replacement feed line on 2011-2013 models includes two o-rings instead of one in addition to an integrated heat shield over the o-rings and a heat shield around the length of the line to prevent oil coking and reduce oil temperatures. If this line is leaking, you will be able to see oil pooled up underneath it on the block's casting ridges in this picture.


Tools Required:
- E10 socket (A set is available on Amazon.com)
- Ratchet
- T45 Torx bit (A set is available on Amazon.com)
- Lb-ft Torque wrench (Available on Amazon.com)
- In-lb torque wrench (Available on Amazon.com)


Part Required:
GM part number: 55592600 (Available on Amazon.com)


Procedure:
Remove the three E10 bolts holding the heat shield over the turbo



Remove the E10 bolt holding the feed line onto the engine block


Loosen the T45 banjo/hollow bolt holding the feed line to the turbo, but do not remove entirely


Pull feed line from engine block. This took quite a bit of wiggling for me, but eventually popped out. Once you get it out, remove the turbo bolt. You should find two copper washers; one above and one below the feed line. The one below the feed line may be stuck to the turbo. If it is, a gentle tap to its outer edge with a flat-head screwdriver will loosen it. Be sure not to scratch the mating surface.

Clean the mating surface on the turbo of any debris, taking care not to scrape dust into the turbo.

Install new feed line. Be careful not to lose the two copper washers.

Torque T45 banjo bolt on the turbo to 30 Nm (22 lb ft). Torque the E10 bolt on the engine block to 10 Nm (89 lb in), or about "hand snug." Do not over-tighten this last bolt or you will have a really bad day. I recommend actually using an in-lb torque wrench for this.


Start the car and check for leaks.

Reinstall heat shield and torque E10 bolts also to "hand snug."

Old vs New photos:

 

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#3 ·
Nice write-up! Really demonstrates how simple some repairs can be. This will save many owners a lot of time and money paying a shop rate to have this done.

Does a significant amount of oil drain from the block when you pull the line out?

This is one of those cases where the savings from doing it yourself can cover the cost of the tools needed. Between the savings of an "on-line" price for the line and likely 1.5 hours of shop rate labor, you could buy a nice 3/8" drive torque wrench and the required bit sets and still come out ahead.

That's the approach I've taken with most of my repairs in the past and I now have a huge assortment of tools that cover pretty much any reasonable job. Add to that the fun of learning along the way and the satisfaction of accomishment, and it's a win win.
 
#4 ·
This replacement is indeed very simple. The only two potential trouble areas are making sure that you don't scrape dirt into the turbo housing when you wipe off the mating surface, and making sure you don't over-tighten the block bolt for the oil cooler line.

I didn't have any oil drain out of mine when I removed it. Made it a very clean install.

As a bonus to buying the tools to do this job, you use the same E10 socket to replace the valve cover.
 
#6 ·
For anyone else who doesn't feel like buying E-sockets, an 8mm 12 point will fit the E10 head. The bolts for this replacement are not tight so there's no worry of stripping them.

Also, the cruzetalk recommended replacement of 3yr/50k miles I know has come from some experiences here, but honestly I think if it is not leaking then do not worry about it. The line will not blow off, and the rust seen in pictures is surface rust, nothing compromising to the strength of the tube. The worst I see happening is the example picture above, small spots of oil, so fix it when that happens.

With that said, I replaced mine to be proactive (I like the new sealing design) at 68k miles. I will be keeping my old line as a backup if I ever need one.
 
#8 ·
A few reports have come in with failed turbos from what is suspected to be coked oil feed lines that starved the turbo of oil. That concern is part of my proactive replacement recommendation.

I got a question. 1st did the old tube have a heat shield? Is is a bigger oil line? Of course it looks like you are one of the kings of write ups here. You are the man.
The old line is the same diameter from what I could tell and did not have a heat shield.

Thanks!
 
#9 ·
Did you notice if the exhaust manifold bolt-spacers were stainless steel-in the pictures they look rusty, reason I ask I was just looking at a 2015 and noticed copper plated bolts on the exhaust manifold, I'm concerned they may have had a bolt seizure problem if those are not stainless
 
#11 ·
Ford was using two O'Rings in their AC line quick couplers with constant failures so tried going to three. Wasn't aware Cruze was using O-Rings in a red hot turbo oil line and this is the problem.

Wouldn't be a problem at all if they stuck with a good old fashion double flare fitting. But thanks for the post, wasn't aware of this and something else to look out for. Always think of that space shuttle when O-Rings are mentioned. Not bad in the oil filter cartridge, get changed frequently. Neoprene or even other elastic materials dry up and change to dust over time.
 
#12 ·
Completed. Though my old one is exactly same as the new one minus the heat shield. GM modifying parts one step at a time as problems arise? My Cruzer is a 2012 2lt but not sure of the maintenance because I bought it used and it was originally a Hertz rental.
 
#13 ·
One major O-Ring job we had was with a 93 GM 4.3L V-6 using a single O-Ring under each valve clips. Got a Fel-Pro that not only had new O'Rings, but those umbrella type seals as used on a 41 Chevy. This was an all day job, took darn near a half a day to remove the valve covers. Used compressed air to keep the valves closed.

Engine only had 60K on it and was consuming a quart of oil every 600 miles, after this job, less than a quart every 5,000 miles, major job was using plenty of SeaFoam to decarbonize the engine, was only getting around 110 psi in a compression check that shot up to 150. Got rid of this thing with 220K miles on it and still was not using oil.

So I am wondering if Fel-Pro mades an oil tube for the Cruze. Replacing one POS part for another just as bad is not a viable solution. And if above the turbo, what about engine fires? Sounds like yet another recall is in order.

Like I said before, I hate O-Rings.
 
#15 ·
It is covered, but for $25 and 30 minutes of work start to finish, it's cheaper and more convenient than taking my car to the dealer, and we will soon have quite a few members whose cars will need this repair done out of warranty.
 
#16 ·
Oil feed tube. Turbocharger Oil Line. GM part number 55592600
1.4 LITER TURBO. MSRP $38.22, your cost $32.69



For all the part listed in item 10, just the line itself is $10.47.

Looks like a standard piece of 3/16" brake line, turbo end is okay, standard caliper type fitting. But what's wrong with the engine end? Just the O-Ring? If so, why not just replace the O-Ring and smear the outside end of it with a good grade of aviation gasket maker.

That boss in the engine looks large enough to hold a fitting for a standard double flare fitting, can be drilled and tapped. Do this, and it will never leak.

Ha, am tempted to take mine in anyway, just so some exec at GM would talk to the engineer that approved this, you may have saved us a couple of cents, but costing us millions in warranty work. Really mickey mouse.

 
#17 ·
Oil feed tube. Turbocharger Oil Line. GM part number 55592600
1.4 LITER TURBO. MSRP $38.22, your cost $32.69

For all the part listed in item 10, just the line itself is $10.47.

Looks like a standard piece of 3/16" brake line, turbo end is okay, standard caliper type fitting. But what's wrong with the engine end? Just the O-Ring? If so, why not just replace the O-Ring and smear the outside end of it with a good grade of aviation gasket maker.

That boss in the engine looks large enough to hold a fitting for a standard double flare fitting, can be drilled and tapped. Do this, and it will never leak.

Ha, am tempted to take mine in anyway, just so some exec at GM would talk to the engineer that approved this, you may have saved us a couple of cents, but costing us millions in warranty work. Really mickey mouse.
The thing about it is that the new line has this heat shield. Keeps the heat from the turbo from coking/carbonizing the oil inside the line after you shut the engine off, at least for the length of line covered. Plus, the revised line for newer models has two o-rings instead of one, so at least for those members, replacing the entire line makes more sense than just replacing an o-ring.

If you already have the updated design, replacing just the o-rings makes more sense, but are those copper washers on the turbo housing re-usable?
 
#21 ·
I would like to add that we have gotten GM to pay for the line during a turbo replacement, but not as a stand alone repair.

Here is the old PI on the line, but it mainly pertains to restricted lines not to leaking lines. Note the update on the fans also.

#PI0851A: Turbocharger Oil Feed and Return Line Inspection When Servicing Turbocharger Assembly - (Feb 22, 2013)

Subject: Turbocharger Oil Feed and Return Line Inspection When Servicing Turbocharger Assembly
Models: 2011-2012 Chevrolet Cruze
2012 Chevrolet Sonic
Equipped with Engine RPO LUJ or LUV
[HR][/HR]This PI is being revised to update the Oil Line Inspection/Recommendation. Please discard PI0851.
[HR][/HR]Oil Line Inspection/RecommendationIf SI diagnostic procedures determine that the turbocharger assembly needs to be removed or replaced, the oil feed pipe should be checked for restriction. Replace the pipe if restricted. Do not attempt to clean the pipe assembly. It is also a good practice to inspect the oil return pipe for any damage or restriction before reinstalling the turbocharger assembly. Another indication of a restricted oil feed pipe could be a claim of an oil leak in the area of the turbo oil return pipe. Inspection of this pipe could lead to finding the return pipe has been damaged as a result of excessive heat due to an inadequate oil supply to the turbo.
ECM CalibrationIn addition to checking the oil pipes, the technician should verify the ECM has the latest calibration. This calibration contains a function that allows the cooling fans to run for a short period of time, after the vehicle has been driven under certain conditions, when the vehicle is shut off. This latest calibration allows the turbocharger to cool in less time, reducing the likelihood of the oil coking in the oil feed pipe. Good vehicle maintenance practices will also help to reduce the oil from coking in the oil feed pipe. To avoid the customer coming back with a concern, you should inform them of the calibration change that allows the fans to run after the key is shut off.
Parts Information
Part Number
Description
55592600
Turbo Oil Feed Pipe
 
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#31 ·
if this oil feed line was to go how much oil would you lose. on my gfs car if you pop the hood most of the left side of the motor is full of oil, She is losing about a liter of oil a day. Any ideas if it would be this oil feed line? or do you have any other recommendations for me.
 
#32 ·
#33 ·
I just got done with this. It is literally a *15 minute* job.

If you are on your original turbo and haven't changed this part yet, it is cheap and easy insurance.

note: The banjo bolt 30 N/m translates to 265 in/lbs, if you only want to use one torque wrench.
 
#36 ·
Yeah I don't buy it.. heck you could give it to your local engine rebuilder and they will throw it in their chemical clean tank for free I'm sue.. it will come out sparkling.

Also what colour are these O rings?.. If they are black then they are probably Buna N. You can get a full set of multi sized Buna N O rings from Harbor Frieght for like $10.. As there are many or O rings on this car it may be worth picking up a set. Buna N is rated up to 250F

They also have Viton o rings (brown).. Viton has a working temperature range of up to 400F and will be an upgrade.

Note I have not seen the turbo pipe O rings.
 
#37 ·
Hi. First off I'd like to say thanks to xtremerevolution for all the info you've provided. 2014 Cruze LT A/T. Came home one day after a fresh snowfall and noticed a line (not a drip) of oil from where she had backed out of the driveway. Texted her and asked to check the oil and sure enough it was not even showing on the dipstick. Long story short, it was leaking profusely from the oil return tube at the filter housing assembly. Amazed that the engine didn't seize up let alone catch fire due to the amount of oil leaking near the exhaust manifold. It already has the double O ring fitting.

Ordering the new tube (55592600 / 25198546) from GMParts online for 36.64 CAD. Curious what the O rings will look like once I take it off. Will post pic if able.
 
#39 ·
Check out my “how to” video I made on this!
Thanks for the video with the correct torque for the bolts. This is one of the easiest repairs and one of the main reasons that the dealer sold me a 2011 so cheap. Oil all over the engine compartment they just just wanted this trade-in out of there hands. And thank you for starting this thread XtremeRevolution.
 
#40 ·
Hi all,

I just experienced the "Exxon Valdez" (massive oil leak) from the turbo oil feed line at 112k miles. I noticed my feed line is not insulated but it does have the large washer rather than just the "side clip" shown in the picture above. So do I have the old style (single o ring) or the new double o ring style?

I might just replace the oring(s) on the end of the pipe while I wait for the new one to show up from Amazon.

While looking on Amazon I saw this statement from one of the "Q&A" on the Amazon site.

"From my research, the root cause of the engine leaking oil is due a failed check valve from the bleed air line to the engine. Once the check valve fails, the over pressure forces each weak link to leak. First the return line, then the oil cooler, then the cam seals."

Can somebody shed light light on what he is talking about? I have never heard of a bleed air line to to cause engine oil to over-pressure.. Is this a real thing?

Secondly, at this many miles what are the odds the the return line is about to fail in the near future? Should that be replaced as well?

Frank
 
#41 ·
Here is what I found when I pulled the turbo feedline. I have the later style double O ring pipe but it did not have any insulation. The o rings were worn and brittle and clearly the double o ring is not a permanent fix .. Like duh, its a cheap botch like most of the hose connections on this car.

I went to my local farm store and bough 4 replacement O rings for $1 and put it back together and it doesn't leak.

Now the dilemma, I have ordered the new replacement pipe and I am in two minds whether to just send it back or to replace the current pipe when it arrives. On the one hand my fix appears to work perfectly well but nowhere on the box of hardware store o rings did it tell me what the material was.. I'm sure its perfectly fine but for $30 and the tiny risk of being in the middle of nowhere is it worth the risk? The new pipe will have the insulation so there is the tiny risk that there might be some carbonised oil in the existing pipe about to break loose and do a number on my turbo bearings.

As I say, I consider the risks to be very small but the cost to make sure I got the right thing is not great either.

Now anyone have any thoughts on the likely state of the return pipe? Anyone seen one fail?

Frank
 
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