I have set the timing up as the pic show but the vehicle will not rev up and keep getting crank sensor fault and have changed the sensor but still no joy it on a Orlando f18 engine

 

Finding the tools specified seems to be a bit difficult.. so I kept on searching and found that people sell a kit.. anyone have any places to buy these tools that arent from overseas?

 

Hi,
I just saw your question. Although it was asked in 2017, I think somebody else, might need the info, sometime later.
Amazon has different ones. Here is a link:

https://www.amazon.com/8MILELAKE-Ch.../dp/B01MU9ZAPY/ref=sr_1_1?keywords=EN-6333+tool&qid=1549939179&s=gateway&sr=8-1

 

The instructions mention removing the EN-6625 crankshaft locking tool, but never mentions installing it. When is that done? Also, it mentions installing and removing the EN-6340 tool a couple of times. Why?

 

Re: EN-6625, it doesn't tell you when to do it because this isn't a 100% complete step by step set of instructions. It is installed during the steps that need to be done to remove the balancer.

Re:EN-6340, the first time you install it it is to hold the cams timed while you have to belt off and are installing the new one. You remove them so you can spin the engine over, and you them back on to verify the timing.

 

Hey I just joined this site bc my friends daughter bought a used 2014 Chevy Cruze and I need a set to lock the timing and release the belt is this kit for a 2014 Chevy Cruz Ltz 1.4 just wondering

 

In replacing the timing belt on the 1.8, perhaps the biggest stumbling block for me was getting the new belt on the tensioner. I fought that thing for quite a while trying to slip it over the wheel. I even tried to slip it partially off the crank gear to provide more slack at the tensioner, but to no avail.

I called my wife and daughter out, and had them helping me up top while I was working from below by the crank. We fiddled with it for quite a while. Finally, in frustration, I over-torqued the allen wrench and, voila, I got another 20 or 30 degrees rotation out of the tensioner, enough to easily slip the belt in place. Needless to say, I was greatly relieved.

I wasn't sure how I managed that, but I did check it on the old tensioner to verify how it works. Apparently, the tensioner has a 2-stage spring in it. The first spring allows about 30° of rotation, then it feels like you've hit the stop. But if you torque harder on it, you can get another 20-30 degrees of rotation, enough to finally get the belt around the pulley.

None of the guides I was using mentioned that (Haynes hardcopy, Chilton on-line).

Knowing that would have saved me close to an hour. Hopefully, this helps someone else avoid this migraine.

To turn the tensioner, I used a socket handle and 6mm allen socket. The fit seemed a little loose in the tensioners, both the old one and the new, yet a ¼" allen wrench was too big to insert. The only choice was the 6mm, but a tighter fit would have been preferred (to give more feel).

I was able to remove the belt from the old tensioner without using the locking tool (EN-6333 above). I was surprised the new tensioner lacked the hole for the locking tool ! But again, it was not needed during the installation.

Similarly, the tool kit includes a locking pin (EN-6349) for the drive belt tensioner, but it was not needed, either.

So neither of the tensioner locking tools were really needed. But knowledge that the timing belt tensioner had a 2-stage spring was critical.

Doug

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On the 1.8, the other tricky part was installing the cam locking tool. It is two pieces which must be slid in between the two cam gears. Extra hands are needed. Someone has to be slightly rocking the crank while the other is up top holding the two pieces against the two gears while trying to line them up with each other. You gotta hold your tongue just right.

Book time on this job is about 2 hours. I probably have 6 times that. I was taking my time, taking lots of pics, reading and re-reading the manuals, and making sure I was following the Mechanocratic oath: "First, don't break anything."

But with a couple more go-rounds, I could maybe get it down to 2 hours

As for the $22 tool kit, below are some high-ball prices I culled form Google for the genuine Kent Moore pieces. They make Snap-On look very affordable! That said, the actual KM tools can be had for less, but are still expensive. The $22 no-name brand stuff was more than up to the task.

KM-6340 cam locking tool
$331.24

KM-6625 flywheel/crank locking tool
$83.35

KM-6349 drive belt tensioner locking tool <-- didn't use
$19.99

KM-6333 timing belt tensioner locking tool <-- didn't use
$65.75

KM-45059 angle meter <-- used mechanical version instead
$728.32

As mentioned earlier, I didn't use either of the locking pins - neither of the tensioners really needed to be locked.

In lieu of the expensive electronic angle meter, I bought a 15 dollar mechanical unit at Autozone. It's not as easy to use, but I can afford it.

I will say, the angle meter is kind of tricky to use, and I probably didn't get very close on the numbers. IIRC, the procedure is to tighten the tensioner mounting bolt to 15 ft-lbs, then turn it another 120°, then turn it another 15°. My 120 was probably ±30 And it might have taken two pulls to get there rather than one continuous crank.

The 15° turn was probably within ±10° of spec, I hope.

Using the mechanical angle gauge requires some practice, and, despite me working at it, I still struggled with it. Also, there's not always a place for the hook on the back to rest against. The hook is supposed to hold the dial face steady while you rotate the wrench and corresponding needle on the face of the dial.

Anyway, this torque-to-yield stuff is out of my area of expertise, and I try to respect the engineering behind it, but my internal BS detector keeps me wondering how critical those angles are.

Nevertheless, I try to go by the book. A lot less stuff gets broken that way.

Overall, I have less than 40 bucks in these tools. Add another 25 for the reverse torx socket set I recently purchased. So despite some daunting numbers for the Kent-Moore stuff, the actual cost is very acceptable. By doing this myself, I still saved lots of money despite needing special tools for it.

Never start a project unless you can get some new tools out of it

Doug

 

On aligning the crank at top-dead-center, despite looking in the right place, the alignment marks were not obvious. I had to look closely to find them. But, once you see them, they're easy to use.

This wasn't really necessary, but it's something I did just to satisfy my own concerns.

I removed the #1 plug, inserted a wooden dowel, and turned the engine close to top-dead-center, then marked the dowel. Next I rocked the crank back and forth until I got the mark as high as possible, then put another mark below it even with the tape, knowing that was TDC.

About that time, I remembered there were marks on the crank pulley and realized I didn't really need this

Doug

 

I like this guys guide. Timing belt replacement on a cruze 1.8l with 130k miles. 30k miles beyond recommended interval. He used an aftermarket kit though, not Gates.

In researching the cheap timing kits fail because of bad bearings in the tensioner or idler pully. Possibly because of worker slacking off at the factory. Not enough grease.