Christmas time means train time!

[giantsnation]

I have a mixed bag of O stuff under the tree for the grandkids to play with. I have an MTH Proto 2 steam engine (better sounds and smoke), but the train is made up of my old 1950s operating cars and a caboose from a 1976 centenial set. Track is an oval of FastTrack for reliability and ceanliness. I don't worry about breakage, it's easy to get parts even for the operating milk car (a kid favorite).

Still trying to learn how this postwar stuff works. Finding a transformer was fun but now I'm trying to figure out why the train shorts out after a few laps (just stops dead). Can you explain the voltage part of the transformer? Do I use A, B, or C? Sorry if that's vague.

[Sunline Fan]

Post up a pic of your transformer so I can see what kind you have.

Your problem of it stopping sounds more track related IMO.


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[Sunline Fan]

Still trying to learn how this postwar stuff works. Finding a transformer was fun but now I'm trying to figure out why the train shorts out after a few laps (just stops dead). Can you explain the voltage part of the transformer? Do I use A, B, or C? Sorry if that's vague.

Let me take a stab at this now with some more detail. I was cleaning in the basement earlier and took a short break, so I wasn't on the computer to type a lot.

Without knowing the model code of the transformer, I can't say exactly how to hook it up. They are all made similar though.

Most decent transformers out there (beyond the basic ones) have hookups for multiple tracks/accessories that require different amounts of voltage. Generally for lights, crossing signals, etc., you want these to have constant voltage as soon as you put power to the transformer. They don't work too well with partial voltage. You want variable voltage for the track itself so that you can adjust the speed of the train. Additionally, you want the track's voltage to go down to zero when with the transformer lever to the off/zero position so that the train stops and you can remove cars, etc. without causing sparks or movement.

Regardless of the transformer you have, you should have post(s) labeled with "U". That's the ground post. Then your A, B, and C posts are the hot power posts. Without the model, I can't say whether you want A, B, or C because I don't know which is the constant power one. It should be labeled on there though.

The wire you connect to the "U" post should go to the #2 position on the track clip-on. The outer rails on the track around ground rails. The wire you connect to the "A", "B", or "C" post will go to the number one connection in order to make the center rail hot/live. The train gets power from that center rail, as do any accessories you connect via another track clip to run off variable power.

If you have everything hooked up like that, and I suspect you may since it is running, then I think the issue with it stopping has to do with the track itself. Is it the original 1958 track? You can often tell because it'll say Lionel New York, NY stamped into the black rail ties. Some enthusiasts have stopped using traditional O-gauge track for this reason. After many years of putting the train up and taking it down, the pins that connect the tracks get loose and fail to make a good connection. Also, the you'll notice the metal rail ties have small rubber gaskets between them and the center rail- this is to prevent it from shorting out. Sometimes these gaskets wear out, slide down the track more and off the tie, or just fall out. The gasket is a critial part.

First step to diagnosing track issues is to check all the connections. A couple years ago when I ran nothing but O-gauge for year after year, I'd go through a procedure when setting it up. First, I'd get a pair of wire cutters like this:



That nice flat clamp area on the end (normally for crimping wire connectors) makes for an easy way to clamp the track back together. I'd take each piece of track, one end at a time, slip the pliers over the end of the rail, in the flat area just below the rounded rail part. Crimp it hard. It should mostly flat here already, but it couldn't be. Do the side with the pins in it too just to make sure they are in tight.

Then start to assemble your layout. If you find you got a piece of track crimped too tight, you can just take a small phillips screwdriver or little drill bit and stretch the hole back out a little. Now when you connect your track, it should be a tight virgin fit. Lionel does make metal track clips to connect the two rail ties together, but they are a little on the costly side. They do help though, and are easier than putting rubber bands around it.

That should do it. When you said the train would randomly stop after a little while, this sounds exactly like a loose pin. It never failed, I used to have them separate all the time because the weight of the train going over it, sinking the track into the carpet, caused the connections to loosen. The trains always seemed to stop/track come apart way behind the tree in a hard to get place.

Keep us updated on how it goes. If you'd like pics on any of this, let me know and I'll see what I can do.

[kfr291]

Please do not do this. We as engineers cannot stand it


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maybe, the engineers that pass by me usually wave and smile. granted i am not the idiots that stands a righ on the tracks, i am normally behind the gates , near a station, or on a road next to the tracks, i do my best so the engineer can celarly see me and stand back so i do not scare them

[Hatje]

That's good as long as your safe and away we don't mind it's the ones that set up their camera 1 foot away from the tracks then bail last minute :/


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[giantsnation]

Just getting back to this and I believe it is track related but the transformer is still confusing me. This is lionel type 1033 90 watts. Currently I have it running like this: #2 is connected to U and #1 is connected to C. The confusing part is that in order to get the train moving I only have to turn the speed dial up slightly otherwise the train just shuts off.

[montess1]

does any one do train spotting.... actually going to the tracks and watching trains go through?

I used to go to Horseshoe Curve in Altoona Pa and watch the trains go thru the curve for hours and over at Gallitzen Tunnel, it was alot of fun taking family out on vacations to see all the train stuff in the area.

[Jim Frye]

GS: Try these links. If I find more, I'll update this post. Generally, A post is for the inner rail and U post is for the outer rail. Take a look at these and see if they help.

I am trying to hook up a Lionel 1033 transformer - FixYa

http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Lionel...s/message/3942

[giantsnation]

Very helpful! It may be the train. It only likes U-C and on low speed. It just shuts off if I increase the speed. Thoughts?

[Jim Frye]

Very helpful! It may be the train. It only likes U-C and on low speed. It just shuts off if I increase the speed. Thoughts?

It's been too many years, but my first Lionel set was a 1950 UP diesel set like the ones in your picture. The second unit used a D battery for the horn. If you run just the powered locomotive by itself, will it run OK, or does it die as you describe? If it doesn't, it may be the E unit (the mechanical reversing switch inside the engine) has gone bad. The parts are available to fix it. There should be a hobby shop in your area that will do Lionel repairs or they will know someone who does that type of work. I had my old white milk car repaired locally with new doors for about $25.