Radiator or cooler line issue?

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Thread: Radiator or cooler line issue?

  1. #1
    Driver's Ed
    Join Date
    Dec 2016
    Posts
    8

    Radiator or cooler line issue?

    Hello!

    Sorry about the response, I have no idea what happened so I will try to be detailed. Thank you for the help in advance!

    2012 cruze 2LT 84k miles. 6t40 auto transmission.

    Recently my lower transmission cooler line started leaking at the crimp. They are the lines that are towards the front of the car that run from the radiator to I think the transmission. I disconnected the lower line that runs to the bottom of the radiator (looking at the car into the engine it is on the right side of the radiator, had to take tire off to disconnect it. They are twisted kind of weird at one point before they run down to the radiator). When I disconnected it all my coolant drained out of the radiator until my reservoir was empty. I pulled the line up and it was indeed my leaking cooler line. I put the line down and what I think was ATF ran out and caused my drain pan to turn into like a soup. I fixed the line and reconnected it then filled my coolant again. 1k miles later there is no automatic in the coolant and the transmission shifts fine. Why did coolant come out? There's no leak that I can see? Only other issue I've had was the burning oil smell and a new valve cover and oil cap fixed that. I drained/filled my transmission and it was pure automatic.

    Are those lines actually transmission cooler lines? If you open the hood and look down they are in the front of the engine. I'm pretty concerned.

    Thanks again!

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  3. #2
    4th Gear
    Join Date
    Feb 2011
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    780
    Ok-

    Here's a link to a diagram so that everyone can ground themselves in what was connected and disconnected.

    http://www.wholesalegmpartsonline.co...281P04-021.JPG

    Part 15 is solid aluminum. I have removed part 15 from the top connection at the radiator and I didn't get any leaking coolant. I would never remove it again. I was trying to flush the tranny fluid completely for a complete change. Worked well but there is no flexibility of line 15 and it was a bear to line up and get back together. I actually had to unthread part 4 the quick connect nut. Place this on the top part of 15 and install back on the radiator cooler.

    If I'm understanding correctly the OP removed and replaced part #7 which is the fluid out of the transmission into the cooler assembly. Where things get crazy is at part 19. I believe part 19 is a thermostatic valve. When it's warm enough it diverts fluid into the cooler part #2. When the fluid is cool the valve remains closed and the flow goes through the radiator cooler side tank like a traditional car.

    I suspect the transission radiator cooler must be a vessel that is inside the radiator tank. I wouldn't think this would be able to move around when line connection nut #4 at the bottom of the side tank is removed.

    OP are you saying you got coolant out of that connection when you removed the transmission line? Very odd that would happen. We don't know how the side tank of the radiator is constructed, but I would hope the tramsission cooler would be built into the tank, and not allowed to move around.
    How to add OEM Factory Heated Seats to a Cloth LT
    Hidden Content
    2012 Cruze LT, 1.4L, AT 58,000 Miles as of 12/16

    Previous Rides
    2002 Intrigue 3.5L,LX5, AT 135,000- Owned for 10 years.. PM for Intrigue help. P1811 also a problem with this car.
    2000 Intrigue 3.5L, LX5, AT, 89,000- Owned for 12 years.. Dreaded P1811 killed this transmission.

  4. #3
    4th Gear
    Join Date
    Feb 2011
    Posts
    780
    The post below is for the Cooler Pipe Connector the nut at the bottom connection that holds the bottom transmission fluid outlet to cooler inlet line. They have you draining the radiator to do this? Maybe the fluids can mix? So I got lucky by removing the top connection?? I don't know. Don't remove both connections or the transmission oil cooler will fall into the radiator tank assembly? See below..

    This info is from Chiltons Online so I tend to trust the source.

    To remove the line, they have you draining the coolant, removing the radiator hose, and the Turbo intercooler hose for access. Along with the battery and battery tray. Maybe all this is needed? It's very tight working in that area, and while some have claimed they have removed and replaced their transmission cooler lines, there have been no how to's written on this. I thought removal of the air charge tubes actually required removal of the front bumper for access at the bottom connection. Yikes, seems like a mess, and I have a weeping line, that weeps only while cold.

    Is draining the radiator critical for just space constraints, or is it done for some other reason like the oil cooler that is inside the radiator tank assembly?

    Anyone else with shop experience that can comment on this one? Seems like a lot of work for a cooler line.

    Transmission Fluid Cooler Pipe Connector Replacement - Radiator (LUJ)
    Transmission Fluid Cooler Pipe Connector Replacement - Radiator (LUJ)

    Removal Procedure

    Remove charge air cooler outlet air hose. Refer to Charge Air Cooler Outlet Air Hose Replacement (Manual Transmission) | Charge Air Cooler Outlet Air Hose Replacement (Automatic Transmission).

    Drain the cooling system. Refer to Cooling System Draining and Filling (GE-47716 Fill) | Cooling System Draining and Filling (Static Fill).


    Click to Enlarge
    Remove the fluid level drain plug (1).

    Drain transmission fluid into a suitable container.

    Remove the transmission oil cooler pipes from the oil cooler fittings on the radiator. Refer to Transmission Fluid Cooler Hose/Pipe Quick-Connect Fitting Disconnection and Connection.


    Click to Enlarge
    NOTE
    Note

    Do not remove the upper and lower transmission oil cooler fittings from the radiator at the same time other wise the transmission oil cooler will fall inside the radiator end tank.

    Remove the oil cooler fitting (1) and the O-ring (2) from the radiator.

    Installation Procedure


    Click to Enlarge
    Inspect the NEW O-ring (2) seals for cracks, cuts or damage. Replace if necessary.

    CAUTION
    Caution

    Refer to Component Fastener Tightening Caution.

    NOTE
    Note

    The correct thread engagement is critical. Cross-threaded fittings can achieve proper tightness and still leak.

    Install the oil cooler fitting (1) to the radiator and tighten to 20 N·m (15 lb ft).

    Install the transmission oil cooler hoses to the oil cooler fittings to the radiator. Refer to Transmission Fluid Cooler Hose/Pipe Quick-Connect Fitting Disconnection and Connection.

    Fill the cooling system. Refer to Cooling System Draining and Filling (GE-47716 Fill) | Cooling System Draining and Filling (Static Fill).


    Click to Enlarge
    CAUTION
    Caution

    Refer to Fastener Caution.

    Install the fluid level drain plug (1) and tighten to 12 N·m (106 lb in).

    Top up transmission fluid and check transmission fluid level. Refer to Transmission Fluid Drain and Fill.

    Install charge air cooler outlet air hose. Refer to Charge Air Cooler Outlet Air Hose Replacement (Manual Transmission) | Charge Air Cooler Outlet Air Hose Replacement (Automatic Transmission).

    Inspect for fluid leaks.

    Not sure how to read the labor times below, but 1.4hrs warranty to 1.9 hours general, is that per line? Those are regular hours not severe.


    System: AUTOMATIC TRANSAXLE
    Subsystem: SERVICE TRANSAXLE INSTALLED
    Operation: Oil Cooler Lines, Replace
    Time Category: RegularSevere

    Description: OEM/Dealer (hrs):Regular (hrs):
    Hose/pipe assy. 1.4 1.9
    Inlet or outlet 0.7 1.0
    Notes:
    Regular (hrs) - Chilton suggested service times based on normal operating conditions
    Severe (hrs) - Chilton suggested service times based on severe operating conditions
    OEM/Dealer (hrs) - OEM warranty times
    Last edited by carbon02; 12-29-2016 at 10:37 PM.
    How to add OEM Factory Heated Seats to a Cloth LT
    Hidden Content
    2012 Cruze LT, 1.4L, AT 58,000 Miles as of 12/16

    Previous Rides
    2002 Intrigue 3.5L,LX5, AT 135,000- Owned for 10 years.. PM for Intrigue help. P1811 also a problem with this car.
    2000 Intrigue 3.5L, LX5, AT, 89,000- Owned for 12 years.. Dreaded P1811 killed this transmission.

  5. #4
    4th Gear
    Join Date
    Feb 2011
    Posts
    780
    Original Poster (OP)

    How much stuff did you have to disconnect to get at the lower hose? You mentioned you pulled the wheel. How did you gain access to the connection, from the bottom, or did you remove part of the wheel liner?
    How to add OEM Factory Heated Seats to a Cloth LT
    Hidden Content
    2012 Cruze LT, 1.4L, AT 58,000 Miles as of 12/16

    Previous Rides
    2002 Intrigue 3.5L,LX5, AT 135,000- Owned for 10 years.. PM for Intrigue help. P1811 also a problem with this car.
    2000 Intrigue 3.5L, LX5, AT, 89,000- Owned for 12 years.. Dreaded P1811 killed this transmission.

  6. #5
    Driver's Ed
    Join Date
    Dec 2016
    Posts
    8
    Thank you for the reply! Yes it was part number 7. When I removed the line from the radiator my coolant ran out. I had to unbolt something to get it out

  7. #6
    Driver's Ed
    Join Date
    Dec 2016
    Posts
    8
    I removed a couple shields and I jacked the car up and couldn't reach so I took the tire off. From there there was a plastic tube of some kind (looked throttle related) had to be unclipped and moved aside

  8. #7
    Driver's Ed
    Join Date
    Dec 2016
    Posts
    8
    Just rechecked everything and it's fine. I guess that is how it is. I was just concerned that coolant came out instead of automatic. Thank you for the help

  9. #8
    4th Gear
    Join Date
    Feb 2011
    Posts
    780
    Fightingmarmot-

    I need some help, as my bottom transmission line is leaking. Did you remove the radiator hose, or the throttle air pipe connection inorder to reach the connection of the bottom coolant line?

    The plastic air pipe connection at the top looks easy to loosen and remove, but the bottom looks like it could be a mess I'd rather not get into.

    Did you unthread the connector from the bottom of the radiator, or did you just remove the clip on the transmission fluid line?

    It's 5F where I'm at in the middle of winter. Trying to figure out if I can tackle this in the garage, or if if this going to be something that has to be taken in.

    The line that is leaking at the crimps is the line that attaches to the top of the transmission. No battery removal required?

    So you did or didn't have coolant drain from the bottom transmission line connection?

    Thanks-

    Carbon02
    How to add OEM Factory Heated Seats to a Cloth LT
    Hidden Content
    2012 Cruze LT, 1.4L, AT 58,000 Miles as of 12/16

    Previous Rides
    2002 Intrigue 3.5L,LX5, AT 135,000- Owned for 10 years.. PM for Intrigue help. P1811 also a problem with this car.
    2000 Intrigue 3.5L, LX5, AT, 89,000- Owned for 12 years.. Dreaded P1811 killed this transmission.

  10. #9
    Super Moderator


    Join Date
    Feb 2013
    Location
    DesPlaines Il
    Posts
    4,321
    To the readers......these cooler lines are covered under 5yr 100k powertrain so take a minute to determine if you are repairing something on your dime that is not your responsibility.

    Rob

  11. #10
    4th Gear
    Join Date
    Feb 2011
    Posts
    780
    5 year powertrain is over for me. It ended in September 2016, as mine was a 2011 build. I may have been able to show a leak before then, but it would have been subjective. Now it's clearly the line that runs from the top of the transmission to the bottom of the radiator.

    The connection that's going to be difficult is the bottom to the radiator. Book says drain the coolant and remove radiator hose, and also remove air charge hose.

    While removing the top of the air charge hose is easy, the bottom requires bumper cover removal to find the clip. I'm hoping I can access the transmission clip from the bottom? Yet it appears that the engine frame member is right in the way, so maybe top down is easier than from under side.

    Any tricks would be appreciated. It's really cold in the Midwest, not sure I'm equipped for a long battle. Yet it's more than a slight weeping. Not a continuous drip either. I'm considering options.

    Thoughts are welcome..

    Thanks-

    Carbon02
    How to add OEM Factory Heated Seats to a Cloth LT
    Hidden Content
    2012 Cruze LT, 1.4L, AT 58,000 Miles as of 12/16

    Previous Rides
    2002 Intrigue 3.5L,LX5, AT 135,000- Owned for 10 years.. PM for Intrigue help. P1811 also a problem with this car.
    2000 Intrigue 3.5L, LX5, AT, 89,000- Owned for 12 years.. Dreaded P1811 killed this transmission.

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