2012 Cruze LS: Sound Difference when seats lifted up

[ZachFools]

Well I already have the two kickers and those should do Fine depending on if can suggest the rest for me..

http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_...-07CVR124.html

I own two of those.if you can suggest the box amp etc I'm all ears

[XtremeRevolution]

Well I already have the two kickers and those should do Fine depending on if can suggest the rest for me..

Kicker 07CVR124 (07CVR12-4) 12" Dual 4 ohm CompVR Subwoofer

I own two of those.if you can suggest the box amp etc I'm all ears

The low motor strength and high moving mass will make them sound inevitably boomy unless you use a larger box for them. I haven't modeled them yet so I can't make any specific recommendations. If you want to make them sound halfway decent, they'll require significant box space. Otherwise, they will sound boomy. If you don't mind that and just want to make them sound loud, any pre-fabbed box will do. Since I have yet to come across one pre-fabbed box that is of high quality and tuned to a reasonable frequency, my recommendations would be based more on build quality than on sound quality.

This will probably work decently well:
Amazon.com: Atrend E12DTV B Box Series 12-Inch Dual Transmission Vented Enclosure: Car Electronics

I wouldn't expect to pay under $100 and get anything of quality when you're getting a pre-fabbed box, and even then, don't expect it to last too long before it starts cracking at the seams and leaking. You could have a custom box made for them, but then you'd scratch your head wondering why you're spending $300 on a box for $70 subs.

The low efficiency means you will need a lot of clean power. This is an excellent amp from many perspectives. It is CEA certified, and you aren't likely to find anything better in that price point. Anything cheaper won't provide enough power and will greatly increase the likelihood of you clipping your subs and destroying them.
Hifonics Brutus BRZ1200.1D BRZ 1200.1D Class D Car Amplifier/Amp

It is better to over-power your subs than to under-power them. Wire them both down to 1 ohm to give the pair a full 1200W of power, and make sure you get some good wiring as the amplifier will probably not be more than 50% efficient at that load. In other words, 1200W of peak power going into those subs will draw 2400W of peak power from your electrical system. I recommend 2 gauge solid copper or 0/1 gauge CCA. You can buy a good amplifier kit from KNU Konceptz.

This kit actually comes with the necessary wiring:
Hifonics Brutus BRZ1200.1D BRZ 1200.1D Car Amp + 0 AWG Amp Kit

I'm not a fan of crimped terminals as they have a huge tendency to loosen up over time (especially with CCA) and they expose bare CCA wire, which will definitely corrode after a year or two, so if you wanted to get something more secure, buy a pair of these closed screw terminals:
Knukonceptz product detail for SET SCREW RING TERMINALS - 1/0 GAUGE PAIR

Let me know if you have any questions.

[ZachFools]

The low motor strength and high moving mass will make them sound inevitably boomy unless you use a larger box for them. I haven't modeled them yet so I can't make any specific recommendations.

ventedSPL /deep bass (maximum enclosure volume):
2.25 ft(3) (63.7L) + port displacement
3 x 12.5" (7.6x31.8cm) port, 20.5" (52.1cm) long
power handling = 300w rms

The low efficiency means you will need a lot of clean power. This is an excellent amp from many perspectives. It is CEA certified, and you aren't likely to find anything better in that price point. Anything cheaper won't provide enough power and will greatly increase the likelihood of you clipping your subs and destroying them.
Hifonics Brutus BRZ1200.1D BRZ 1200.1D Class D Car Amplifier/Amp

It is better to over-power your subs than to under-power them. Wire them both down to 1 ohm to give the pair a full 1200W of power, and make sure you get some good wiring as the amplifier will probably not be more than 50% efficient at that load. In other words, 1200W of peak power going into those subs will draw 2400W of peak power from your electrical system.

The only problem with this,is since its a 4 ohm sub,it only allows me to wire an 8ohm in series or 2ohm in parellel.if I wanted one ohm I'd have to get the 2ohmcvr.unless there's a way around it?

[XtremeRevolution]

ventedSPL /deep bass (maximum enclosure volume):
2.25 ft(3) (63.7L) + port displacement
3 x 12.5" (7.6x31.8cm) port, 20.5" (52.1cm) long
power handling = 300w rms




The only problem with this,is since its a 4 ohm sub,it only allows me to wire an 8ohm in series or 2ohm in parellel.if I wanted one ohm I'd have to get the 2ohmcvr.unless there's a way around it?

I don't ever, ever go based on manufacturer recommendations, with a few exceptions. Those recommendations are always heavily compromised; most of the time to keep space down to a reasonable size.

How is the impedance a problem? The amp is stable down to 1 ohm, so you wire each sub down to 2 ohms individually, then wire them down to 1 ohm together. No problems there.

[ZachFools]

I don't ever, ever go based on manufacturer recommendations, with a few exceptions. Those recommendations are always heavily compromised; most of the time to keep space down to a reasonable size.

I kinda of figured,but since I have no clue where to even go with a box I thought that might've worked.

how is the impedance a problem? The amp is stable down to 1 ohm, so you wire each sub down to 2 ohms individually, then wire them down to 1 ohm together. No problems there.

Oh,I didnt know you could make the impedance of 2 4ohm subs into a 1 ohm load.The manual doesnt say different wiring but the 2ohm and 8ohm loads for my sub.Is there a legit diagram I could use to see how its wired?

[XtremeRevolution]

I kinda of figured,but since I have no clue where to even go with a box I thought that might've worked.



Oh,I didnt know you could make the impedance of 2 4ohm subs into a 1 ohm load.The manual doesnt say different wiring but the 2ohm and 8ohm loads for my sub.Is there a legit diagram I could use to see how its wired?

Well, you could always have someone model a box for you to determine what would work best, but on second thought, you aren't very likely to find a pre-fabbed box that will fit the specific needs of those subs. To get the best output and sound quality out of a sub, the box generally needs to be designed around the sub. Since a custom vented/ported box would cost you over $250, your best bet might be to just go with a prefabbed box.

Subwoofer wiring diagram for two DVC 4-ohm subs, wired down to 1 ohm:

http://a248.e.akamai.net/pix.crutchf...no-low-imp.jpg

[ZachFools]

Well, your best bet might be to just go with a prefabbed box.

Yeah, I guess I will keep my fingers crossed and hopefully will find the closest prefabbed box that will work for my subs.

Any specific difections the ports should be facing?

Subwoofer wiring diagram for two DVC 4-ohm subs, wired down to 1 ohm:

http://a248.e.akamai.net/pix.crutchf...no-low-imp.jpg

Really????Wow!I didn't know this was possible.
So this won't burn the coils out if I put it in a one ohm load?

[XtremeRevolution]

Yeah, I guess I will keep my fingers crossed and hopefully will find the closest prefabbed box that will work for my subs.

Any specific difections the ports should be facing?



Really????Wow!I didn't know this was possible.
So this won't burn the coils out if I put it in a one ohm load?

Port location will not matter a while lot.

And yes, it is possible.

The coils create the resistance. They are simply wires wound around a typically metal former (a cylindrical tube) which is then connected to the cone itself. The resistance of that coil is what we know as the impedance. Some subs have two voice coil windings, which is why we call them Dual voice coil subs. There are even some quad voice coil subs out there, but they are uncommon.

The coils are essentially resistors. If you go back to basic high school electronics class (for those of you who took it), you'll remember what happens when you run an inductor in series or in parallel. In series, our impedance rises, and in parallel, our impedance drops. How we wire them up has only one consequence: the resistance load that the amplifier is subjected to.

Amplifiers are only stable down to a specific impedance. If you drop the impedance too far, you can damage your amp, or it will constantly go into protect mode. The amplifier I recommended is stable down to a 1 ohm load. At that load, it provides 1200W RMS of CEA certified power, which would give each of your subs 600W RMS.

When we discuss power, you need to remember that our RMS power ratings are thermal ratings. That is basically the point at which the voice coils will melt if subjected to a certain amount of power. In the case of your subwoofers, that's 300W. This is determined by the thickness of the voice coil windings and the subwoofer's ability to dissipate voice coil heat. However, what our subwoofers get subjected to on a normal basis is peak power. I have never seen a well designed system fry a subwoofer when it was driven too hard; the subwoofer always bottoms out. If you fried a voice coil, you were running far too weak of an amp. I have a very lengthy article on this by a JL Audio engineer that I can show if you want to learn more about clipping and speaker damage.

Without getting too far into specifics, the point of all this is to tell you that you are FAR better off significantly over-powering your subwoofers. This will ensure that they always get clean power, not clipped power, and that will allow you to reliably drive them all the way to their mechanical excursion limits without frying them. That is, assuming they are of decent quality. I've seen some Kenwood and Rockford Fosgate amps rip their suspension when driven to high excursion limits, which basically means they're garbage. When you bottom out a sub, you'll know it. It will sound like a tapping, or will sound like a hammer just hit something in your trunk, depending on how bad it is.

Careful how much research you do into these topics. You might find yourself taking my advice and selling your subs.

[ZachFools]

Port location will not matter a while lot.

And yes, it is possible.

The coils create the resistance. They are simply wires wound around a typically metal former (a cylindrical tube) which is then connected to the cone itself. The resistance of that coil is what we know as the impedance. Some subs have two voice coil windings, which is why we call them Dual voice coil subs. There are even some quad voice coil subs out there, but they are uncommon.

So then I wonder why most manufacturers(not only kicker in specific) don't show a diagram for a one ohm load for 4ohm dvc subs?

amplifiers are only stable down to a specific impedance. If you drop the impedance too far, you can damage your amp, or it will constantly go into protect mode.

I learned this the hard way...Kept goin into protect mode(at the time I didn't know why)....let's just say that was how I learned permanantly how to wire subs correctly.luckily instead it blew the coil on the sub instead of my amp (the boss amp I'm using) though.

So when I set the impendence to a 1 ohm load with these subs on,let's say that amp you showed me,if I turned it up and had that load it wouldn't go into protect or blow my subs?

The amplifier I recommended is stable down to a 1 ohm load. At that load, it provides 1200W RMS of CEA certified power, which would give each of your subs 600W RMS.

That would be pretty decent bass for my likings,I'd be satisfied.

Whe we discuss power, you need to remember that our RMS power ratings are thermal ratings. That is basically the point at which the voice coils will melt if subjected to a certain amount of power. In the case of your subwoofers, that's 300W. This is determined by the thickness of the voice coil windings and the subwoofer's ability to dissipate voice coil heat. However, what our subwoofers get subjected to on a normal basis is peak power. I have never seen a well designed system fry a subwoofer when it was driven too hard; the subwoofer always bottoms out. If you fried a voice coil, you were running far too weak of an amp. I have a very lengthy article on this by a JL Audio engineer that I can show if you want to learn more about clipping and speaker damage.

Without getting too far into specifics, the point of all this is to tell you that you are FAR better off significantly over-powering your subwoofers. This will ensure that they always get clean power, not clipped power, and that will allow you to reliably drive them all the way to their mechanical excursion limits without frying them. That is, assuming they are of decent quality. I've seen some Kenwood and Rockford Fosgate amps rip their suspension when driven to high excursion limits, which basically means they're garbage. When you bottom out a sub, you'll know it. It will sound like a tapping, or will sound like a hammer just hit something in your trunk, depending on how bad it is.

Lol don't worry I know quite well how it sounds,and id like to avoid that this time.I'm tired of messing with it.

According to their website.the CompVRs are there cornerstone sub and the best in their class.The subs state that the motor structure and coils are greatly tougher to where they can handle more abuse and power.So I guess I picked well for the most part.too bad I got the 4ohm dvcs..

[XtremeRevolution]

So then I wonder why most manufacturers(not only kicker in specific) don't show a diagram for a one ohm load for 4ohm dvc subs?



I learned this the hard way...Kept goin into protect mode(at the time I didn't know why)....let's just say that was how I learned permanantly how to wire subs correctly.luckily instead it blew the coil on the sub instead of my amp (the boss amp I'm using) though.

So when I set the impendence to a 1 ohm load with these subs on,let's say that amp you showed me,if I turned it up and had that load it wouldn't go into protect or blow my subs?



That would be pretty decent bass for my likings,I'd be satisfied.



Lol don't worry I know quite well how it sounds,and id like to avoid that this time.I'm tired of messing with it.

According to their website.the CompVRs are there cornerstone sub and the best in their class.The subs state that the motor structure and coils are greatly tougher to where they can handle more abuse and power.So I guess I picked well for the most part.too bad I got the 4ohm dvcs..

You blew the coil on the amp probably because at the impedance you ran the amp, you were clipping the heck out of it and you fried it. Like I said, shitty amp.

Manufacturers don't show a diagram for a low impedance 1 ohm load because not very many amplifiers you will find retail will do it. However, I don't shop retail.

If you run the wires down to a 1 ohm load with the amp I showed you, the amp will not go into protect mode. That is, assuming your wiring and your electrical system can maintain the voltage the amplifier needs.

A manufacturer shouldn't be telling you their subs are the greatest. People who know better will buy them without needing all that marketing. If you go to JL Audio's website, all you'll find is "we have a patent on this, and a patent on that, and we are the greatest here, and the greatest there, and we are better than all." Ask anyone who has used both a JL W6 and an Image Dynamics IDQ V3 driver and they'll tell you the IDQ always sounds much, much better. They are both priced the same, but the JL sub's page has more 10x more marketing BS and self-proclaimed excellence than the ID page does. People buy JL Audio so they can impress their friends with a brand that JL fanboys think is the best thing on the planet. People buy Image Dynamics so they can win SQ competitions and get the best value in sound quality and excellent engineering.

Going back to Kicker, if they're telling you that this sub is their cornerstone sub, it's just marketing BS. In fact, I've go as far as to say that the sound quality and performance of a sub is, in most cases, inversely proportional to the amount of marketing hype they have plastered all over their website. The best subs out there have very little marketing and don't need to tell people how great they are; they already know.