Audio Upgrade (complete noob) help - Page 7
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Thread: Audio Upgrade (complete noob) help

  1. #61
    Driver's Ed josheco12's Avatar
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    I see you talk about sound deadening so the trunk doesn't rattle, buy where did you place it x?my 2-10 Orion's with Kenwood 1200w amp rattles the truck and the weather strip in-between the truncheon and back window pretty bad, if you stick your fingers on the seal it feels like it's going to bight your fingertips off.Also the rear deck cover/carpet rattles like a bitch.Any tips are appreciated.

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  3. #62
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    Quote Originally Posted by jherman08 View Post
    Basically I'm just gonna let you choose what would work best with 4 idq12s lol. This is basically a monster you created, Im just paying for it and reaping the rewards haha.
    What's your budget on the front speakers, including the amp and etc.?

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  4. #63
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    Quote Originally Posted by josheco12 View Post
    I see you talk about sound deadening so the trunk doesn't rattle, buy where did you place it x?my 2-10 Orion's with Kenwood 1200w amp rattles the truck and the weather strip in-between the truncheon and back window pretty bad, if you stick your fingers on the seal it feels like it's going to bight your fingertips off.Also the rear deck cover/carpet rattles like a bitch.Any tips are appreciated.
    The SDS CLD tiles need to cover about 25% of the surface area to be effective, but you may need more. You apply it on the underside of the trunklid. With that amount of power, there's only so much you can do, but I'd start with the CLD tiles.

    For the rear deck, you'll need some mass loading. I'm not sure how you can accomplish that, but you need to find a way to secure it better. I'm sure I'll run into this issue when I put my 15" sub back there so keep an eye on my thread (see first link in my signature) and I'll post how I went about fixing it.

    Send Don an email at don@sounddeadenershowdown.com for a quote on the the cld tiles, and ask him what he recommends regarding the weather strip and rear deck cover. He's more of an expert on sound deadening than I am. Oh, and tell him Andrei sent you.

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  5. #64
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    Quote Originally Posted by XtremeRevolution View Post
    What's your budget on the front speakers, including the amp and etc.?

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    What setup were you referring to as being better than something 2x its price?

  6. #65
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    Quote Originally Posted by jherman08 View Post
    What setup were you referring to as being better than something 2x its price?
    The one I'm installing in my car using the minidsp. Just about anything you use with a minidsp will sound seriously awesome.

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  7. #66
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    What would compliment my 4 12s? I dont like to put a price on things because id rather pay what i have to in order to get what i need rather than

  8. #67
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    Quote Originally Posted by jherman08 View Post
    What would compliment my 4 12s? I dont like to put a price on things because id rather pay what i have to in order to get what i need rather than
    If you want excellent sound quality, MiniDSP is the way to go. You'll need a good 4-channel amp. The MinDSP is $150 shipped which includes the the car audio switch you'll need and a potentiometer (pot) to adjust gain. I can recommend you a good pair of tweeters and midwoofers for about $100-$120. After this, you'll need to watch my SQ thread like a hawk and ask all of the questions you possibly have in order to set it all up. Might have to call me so I can explain things directly, but we can definitely get you set up.

    Let me know when you're ready to order the next set of components and we'll go from there.
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  9. #68
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    Since the wires I need for the amp are on backorder until the end of the month, I think I might upgrade the tweeters and midwoofers and sound deaden the car before I even get the amp and subs installed. So which tweets/mids/4-channel amp should I look into. Thanks!

  10. #69
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    Here's are some components I think would work well. Either of these will work; you can mix and match. It all depends on the price point.

    Tweeters ($35 EA):
    Morel MDT 12 1-1/8" Neodymium Tweeter 277-060

    Woofers ($29 EA):
    Dayton Audio DA175-8 7" Aluminum Cone Woofer 295-335

    I already have the Dayton DA-175, which is what I'll be installing in my car with my MiniDSP. You'll probably be able to run the same crossover points as I will be running, but you may need to increase the gain on the tweeters.

    This will run you $130 for speakers, $150 for the MiniDSP, and however much a good set of RCA cables are over on KNU. You'll need one ~3 foot and two ~17 foot cables. The tweeter will obviously need to be a custom install as it won't be made specifically to mount to where the original tweeter is in the pillars, but it can be done and the very low mounting depth on this one should make it easy. You're looking at $280 for the front sound stage, and I guarantee that these components will blow away anything you can find in the ~$500 range while being able to keep up with your subs in volume.

    For that set up, I'd run one of these two amps. Both are great amps. The NX4 is much smaller though and may be easier to mount.
    http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_...-ONX4.125.html
    http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_...Audio-NX4.html

    I would personally run the NX4 due to the smaller size and higher signal to noise ratio.

    Edit: let me know before you order the tweeters so I can make 100% sure that they'll fit in the pillars. I'm fairly certain they will, but I want to measure the width of that opening to be certain.
    Last edited by XtremeRevolution; 04-10-2012 at 12:49 AM.
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  11. #70
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    Quote Originally Posted by XtremeRevolution View Post
    Power wires. 0/1 gauge copper, I'd get 20 feet to be safe:
    Knukonceptz product detail for KOLOSSUS FLEKS KABLE 1/0 RED POWER /GROUND WIRE

    Ground wire. 0/1 gauge copper, I'd get 4 feet to be safe:
    Knukonceptz product detail for KOLOSSUS FLEKS KABLE 1/0 GAUGE BLUE POWER/GROUND WIRE

    Distribution Block (use one 150A fuse and two 100A fuses):
    Fuse Block, Fuse Blocks

    RCA Wires: you'll need one set for subs and one set for front speaker amp. Might as well get two:
    Knukonceptz product detail for KLARITY RCA CABLE 2 CHANNEL RCA KABLE 5 METER

    Screw ring terminals (one for battery and one for ground)
    Knukonceptz product detail for SET SCREW RING TERMINALS - 1/0 GAUGE PAIR

    Speaker wire - get 10 feet to be safe:
    Knukonceptz product detail for KORD ULTRA FLEX 10 GAUGE SPEAKER WIRE


    This is just for the sub and sub amp install. If you are planning on upgrading front speakers and adding an amp as well, you'll need a few more odds and ends. Let me know and I can provide links for those too.
    Do I need the speaker wire to install the amp and subs? Trying to get these costs calculated to a T because Im bored and impatient lol... Is the speaker wire the remote wire? Slowly learning haha

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