Chevrolet Cruze Forums banner

Adding a sub

Tags
adding
10K views 58 replies 12 participants last post by  Livingfortheice 
#1 ·
Hey guys, I have a 2014 LT with a 1.4, I'm looking to add a bit of bass to the stock system. I'm not looking to get a big woofer, just something to compliment the stock system. Any suggestions? Looking to go cheap and easy to install as Well, I'm not all that great with wiring :p
Thanks, Ryan
 
#2 ·
As a fellow Wings fan I'm obligated to help ;) What I need from you is a budget. You tell me what you're willing to spend and I'll show you a few different configuration options. Wiring is really simple. I'll be adding a write up once I get my box from XtremeRevolution. His boxes are the best because it takes up the least amount of trunk space as of right now but it will set you back a little over $200. So again, I need a budget and I'll start throwing you some ideas.
 
#6 ·
Deficit looking to spend at most $500, I'm not looking to blow the doors off, just something to add to the little bass I have stock with the normal speaker package. Would I be better off not getting one and instead upgrading the door speakers? I know I did that in my truck and it made a huge difference but I don't know if my car works the same way. Thanks for the quick reply! Go Wings!
 
#10 ·
See
I would stay away from powered anything. Give me a little bit as my a** just woke up. I know we can do a lot and come in at budget. Speakers and subs but I'll need time to get you links plus I have a meeting this morning.

No problem man, I had work all day and going to school soon anyway so no rush! I won't be able to get them for a week or so though

Sent from AutoGuide.com Free App
 
#14 ·
It would be in your best interest to learn how to run a wire through a firewall and into the trunk. It is not rocket science, no offense. The effort you put in will allow you to keep costs low and achieve a much better result. We are all here to guide you step by step as well so you know exactly what to do.
I'd take his advice, he is 100% correct. Gotta increase your learning curve there man.
 
#23 ·
Ha, in the town where I was born, lived a kind old man named Nick, who sailed to sea. He told us of his life in the land of submarines. So we sailed up to the sun until we found the sea of green. We lived beneath the waves in our yellow submarine!
 
  • Like
Reactions: jblackburn
#24 ·
Jon that is not 500 bucks worth . More like oo.50 cents worth .
 
#27 ·
XtremeRevolution is correct. Kicker is only expensive because it's sold by big retail yet the components are, IMHO, garbage. A $35 pioneer subwoofer will sound better.... Definitely go with the PAC. I plan on installing my PAC near the radio and running RCA cables to the rear like any other install. If you are doing a single sub and amp you'll need 4 gauge wire. For the RCAs and 4 Gauge power/ground wire I would go with Knukonceptz brand off Ebay or Amazon. They sell it by the foot. I'll have to measure how much you'll need but 22' power is probably over estimating. You can go with their cheaper version that runs about $1.80 a foot if memory serves correctly. Ground wire you'll need about 4 ft or so. Here is a quick cost estimation run down for you. XtremeRevolution feel free to chime in with a different amp and sub but I'm going to recommend a basic setup that's 1) cost effective 2) simple, as he's not going for overkill here.

Amplifier($140): Amazon.com : Alpine MRV-M500 Mono subwoofer amplifier - 500 watts RMS x 1 at 2 ohms : Vehicle Mono Subwoofer Amplifiers : Car Electronics
Subwoofer($56): Amazon.com: Rockford Fosgate R2D2-10 Prime R2 DVC 2 Ohm 10-Inch 250 Watts RMS 500 Watts Peak Subwoofer: Car Electronics
Box by Xtreme ($225?) XtremeRevolution
PAC 2 Channel Adapter ($11) http://www.amazon.com/PAC-SNI35-Adj...=1398451876&sr=8-1&keywords=PAC+2+channel+loc
Power Wire ($27) Amazon.com: KnuKonceptz KCA Kable 4 Gauge Power Wire Blue: Automotive
Ground Wire ($9) Amazon.com: KnuKonceptz KCA Kable 4 Gauge Power Wire Black: Automotive
RCA ($25) Amazon.com: Krystal Kable 2 Channel 6M Twisted Pair RCA Cable 20': Electronics
Fuse Block ($25) Amazon.com : DB Link NANLFB02 0 AWG In/ (2) 4 AWG Out-2 Position ANL Power Distribution Fuse Block with Clear Heat Resistant Plastic Housing : Vehicle Amplifier Power Distribution Kits : Car Electronics
Fuse ($10?) http://www.amazon.com/Install-Bay-A...8&qid=1398452141&sr=8-4&keywords=100+anl+fuse
Misc Parts ($20?) Anything misc can be had for a few bucks off ebay or local hardward store IE electrical tape etc.

Grand total for that build $523 and I'm probably overestimating!

XtremeRevolution does 2 different boxes, the one I quoted I think is the Fiberglass box but you could always do the MDF which is way cheaper. All parts can be swapped out for different components but if I wanted something simple and to the point this is really close to something I would buy and pretty **** close to what I've always used. My components are a few steps up in power and complexity but the baseline is represented by these components. Let me know what you think and Xtreme please weigh in with other suggested parts. Hope this helped a bit. Again, we can go more in depth as you start to buy parts for your build.

I CAN'T STRESS THIS ENOUGH!!! DO NOT RUSH TO BUY!!! AND.... DO NOT RUSH TO INSTALL!!! YOU MUST TAKE YOUR TIME OR YOU'LL HAVE REGRETS!
 
#32 ·
That will pretty much blow away the kicker system. Fiberglass over plastic, a proper subwoofer instead of a weak shallow mount, some REAL power instead of some most likely overrated circuitry Kicker installed.

I strongly doubt they will put a whole 200W RMS through that little sub before it bottoms out. Amplifier power here will be lower than the sub capacity.

Sent from AutoGuide.com App
 
#28 ·
BTW, upgrading your door speakers won't give you the base you're looking for as they can't reproduce base below certain frequency ranges. If you've happy with the sound in the speakers as is leave them alone. If not for another $200 or so you can replace them too. Again, I can show you how. Your call.
 
#29 ·
What I was requesting is that you offer a setup similar to Kicker's design/setup, not necessarily sound. Small, compact box tucked away that does not inhibit trunk space, just like the Kicker box. So start with your fiberglass box & go from there. My only point is, at $432, the Kicker setup is tough to beat...not necessarily the sound, but the simple setup and installation. I, nor the OP, is trying to win any sound competitions. And in my opinion, along with all the others on this forum who opted to buy the Kicker setup, no one has been left disappointed. To call it garbage without actually listening to it is a bit prejudice. OP, humor me and offer the guy on eBay $350. See what he counter offers. You get EVERYTHING you need to add the sub in one box, including step-by-step instructions with pictures.
 
#31 ·
Car Audio is one area in car automotive I know a lot about. Much like a mechanic knows an engine. Xtreme is the same way. My problem with kicker is that it's like a Buick Verano, Verano's look good and sound fancy but the engine is weak, very weak. My setup will NEVER win you an SPL or DB contest, ever! But the components will last far longer, can be adjusted to taste on a wider spectrum and will run cooler than the kicker system. You can debate me all day, and I do respect your opinion, but why spend $350 vs $500? Wait the extra couple of months to save the additional $150 if money is the issue but as I said in my last big post... DON'T RUSH TO BUY!
 
#30 ·
And if you're ever in Lansing, MI let me know & you can listen to my Kicker sub to see if it's what you're looking for before purchasing. Just letting you know it's not garbage and there are many, many options out there just like the above example, which I'm sure would sound great.
 
#33 ·
Without quoting my previous post, Xtreme is not trying to say "blow away" as in extremely loud bass as I can assure you that setup will not do that. But from the trunk position it WILL provide the background lows you're looking for... Awaiting OPs weigh in here :)

On a side note, that sub was specifically chosen to be wired into a 4 ohm load which that amp will support at 300 watts RMS. Unlike the kicker system, as Xtreme mentioned, the Alpine amp and Rockford sup will use the full 300 watts at any volume whereas the Kicker will indeed bottom out just like your door speakers.
 
#35 ·
All of you guys kick some major butt. I can't express my gratitude! This means a whole heck of a lot! I'm going to get on my computer this weekend and check out everything as I've been on my phone and haven't been able to take everything in. I definitely plan on getting a box from Xtreme though, great price compared to what I've looked at and much better quality! Like Sadistik said, I'm going to take my time going through my options and make a finally decision in the coming week or two. Thank you again for all of your help!
 
#36 ·
Living, while your points are somewhat valid here's what you missed. First those are not the exact components I would install IE the 100 amp fuse, it's a placeholder, second, why the **** would you install less than 4 gauge? To save yourself $3? I call bullsh*t. 8 gauge is a waste of your money because IF you do want to upgrade in the future you'll have a fun time rerunning wire because you went "cheap" and with the "basic" size for your install. Not to mention Alpine amps are underrated.

I was simply proving I can meet the $500 threshold and btw I did that in 10 mins while working today (like I even had time in the first place)

On the note of 10 vs 12 or ported vs sealed blah blah blah, it all depends what route OP wants to go. Why would you even decide on a box before you know what kind of sub he's looking to install???? He did say he wanted a simple system thus a 10 provides a crisper base without the booming effect. (True for most subs)

Next time you want to contradict me read the posts first and understand none of the information provided was done so with the intent he go purchase it all. I don't know how you think we could have solved his problems with 3 posts or so apiece.

Like I said your points are valid but irrelevant because they don't fit the scope of what has been discussed so far which is simply that a system CAN be built for $500 that puts predesigned systems to shame in both quality and affordability.




Sent from AutoGuide.com Free App
 
#37 · (Edited by Moderator)
On a side note, I wouldn't touch the majority of your suggestions. Lightning audio while made by Rockford is like running a kicker amp, under powered and over priced. Kicker wiring? You're not going to beat the efficiency of Knukonceptz wiring at 95 cents a foot.

You're shorting him on wire length as well for a clean install, remember he's a noob he needs to ensure he has enough for mistakes.

One other thing I missed, you went suggesting two subs and he said simple, 2 subs 1) take up a lot of room and 2) are more expensive.




Sent from AutoGuide.com Free App
 
#43 ·
So i just wanted to throw up another response. iTz SADISTIK, i got your message. No hard feelings. Im not one to step on peoples toes, only try and throw my input in there and build off of others ideas... While my information is what ive learned and read online, i am not an expert in this area. I am easily a very well rounded hobbyist in the field. But don't ever think of my words as the end all be all statements of the century.

And Xtreme. Thank you for your in depth input on my mistakes. I do not mean that sarcastically. You were not an @$$ about it by any means. You are someone who understands this stuff to the tee, and i love learning new information. I can take being wrong, and have no problem admitting it. I enjoyed learning the new stuff you informed me of.

Finally, I used Crutchfield as a starter place for finding stuff... While i have easily ventured away into different vendors of audio equipment, i think Crutchfield is the best place for a noob to start. That is why i pointed so many of my links to this place. If he wires up his subs or amps wrong and fries the whole thing, he can return it to crutchfield and get a replacement most of the time. Just has to say it was faulty to start...

Either way, thanks for the info and i hope to contribute more to these forums in the future!

Ben
 
#46 ·
I prefer to take opportunities to teach people instead of telling them they're wrong. Preventing the spread of misinformation is always a high priority as the DIY car audio world is full of it. That, and as this forum grows, I won't have the time to respond to every single person that has questions. Teaching others reduces the number of questions I have to answer.

While I do take the audio world to extremes, my designs are not intimidating. Simply put, they are the best bang for the buck, guaranteed. My approach to system design is not to throw better parts into the shopping cart, but to choose the parts based on measured performance like frequency response and harmonic distortion and design a system that can be tuned. This is why I have two driver combinations for a front sound stage, each which I have spent the time to tune and have published those tunes so getting the same precision measured results is just a matter of plug n play.



Sent from AutoGuide.com App
 
#47 ·
Another update, just got my taxes back so I'm looking to start buying this week and this coming weekend, as I'll have a decent sized check from work coming. So far, the Alpine sub seems great, definitely want a box from Xtreme, the R2D2 that SADISTIK mentioned seems like a great sub, and unless anyone has a different suggestion, I think i'm going to go with that one. I'm still going to wait until midweek before I start purchasing anything for sure, but I cannot express my gratitude towards all of you that have helped me out, the Cruzetalk family is the best!
 
#48 ·
Remember I said that was just an example build; depending on how much you want to spend will DEFINITELY change my opinion on which subwoofer is best plus it will depend on the budget because the amp could change too. If you go a larger amp and the resonance is right in XRs box I would tell you to go with an alpine type-R sub over that Rockford sub but again it's all based on the Box physics and your budget.

My advice though is to set a budget and stick with it because you can always do better but then you'll find yourself spending money you didn't want to. I'm famous for doing this, should probably take my own advice :D
 
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Top