Intel gathering for changes to upgraded OEM Pioneer stereo system

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Thread: Intel gathering for changes to upgraded OEM Pioneer stereo system

  1. #1
    CruzenBC is offline [OP]
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    Intel gathering for changes to upgraded OEM Pioneer stereo system

    So I just took delivery of my Cruze (2014, 1LT w/ Pioneer upgraded system), and already the mod ideas are flowing. I don't think I'll do much in the way of mechanical as it's an automatic (WAF :/) maybe some lowered springs and slightly larger wheels and shoes to remove the gap.

    As for the in car entertainment, the Pioneer system IS better than OEM stock, but only marginally as it leaves a bit to be desired (I find the rear 6x9 subs to be way too boomy).

    I'm not going to be having many if any rear passengers (other than our 3 month old daughter, so music will be low when she's in the car), when the system is pushed, it will be when I am driving solo or with the wife when we have a baby sitter.

    With that in mind, to save on budget, I'm thinking about ripping out (or at least just neutering and leaving the physical speakers in place) everything in the rear, and focusing on the front sound stage.

    I like the idea of keeping the separate components (tweeters in the A-Pillars) and the center channel speaker. I will be keeping the stock H/U, once again mostly due to WAF, but also because I feel for the money that would be needed to be spent, I doubt I would get a better mix of SQ + integration than what is already there.

    Is there any way with the OEM Pioneer H/U to add an extra video source, say for example I wanted to watch a movie on the touch screen and utilize the sound system over Bluetooth? If so, I would consider adding rear 6x9's for a surround sound effect, if not then no worries, not a deal breaker.

    As for musical tastes, I don't have much use for non-musical bass, so I'll listen to anything and everything from Classic Rock, to Modern Rock, R&B, Funk, Hip Hop, Metal, Country and Chillstep. About the only true electronic music I'll listen to is Daft Punk.

    Is there a way to get lossless audio fed through the OEM H/U?

    Here's the list of components I'll be looking to get, subject to change based on recommendations:

    1. Replacement front components (this will be for the mid bass and high end)
    2. Replacement center speaker
    3. Replacement 4 channel amp, possibly 6
    4. Standalone sub 8-10" depending on musicality
    5. Big 3 upgrade to ensure clean power (I'm aware of the fella on the forums selling his kits)

    Budget: $1000 or less, depending on the complexity of the electronics/tie in to the on board computer I may do the install myself (but it's been since the 90s) or have a pro shop do it for me.

    Ideally I'd like to be in the 350-500w RMS range for the system, loud enough to sound great when needed, but more so to maintain fidelity and sound quality at lower listening levels.

    Thanks all, have a good'er

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  3. #2
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    Start here, and then we can discuss options.

    http://www.cruzetalk.com/forum/36-au...thread-v2.html

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    CruzenBC is offline [OP]
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    Quote Originally Posted by XtremeRevolution View Post
    Start here, and then we can discuss options.

    http://www.cruzetalk.com/forum/36-au...thread-v2.html
    Thanks, honestly not sure how I missed that thread.

    So after taking a read through, the budget on this is ridiculous, who knew so much SQ could be gleaned from raw drivers and a DSP unit?

    Apparently I had been unknowingly brainwashed by the fine folks of every marketing department of every audio component manufacturer. I'm sure that's much too broad of a brush to stroke with, but I'm sure it holds true for the majority.

    I figure for the minimal investment vs quality return, I'm going to go with the silver/flute combo, for < 100 for 4 drivers it's hard to argue with that, along with the recommended DSP setup. Quick question about the DSP what is the difference in this application between Revision A and Revision B, and should one be purchased over the other (if so, why?).

    With your recommendation of yanking out the all of the rear components (or simply disconnecting them), I assume by inference that the center channel too will go unused.

    That just leaves me with the question of what Sub and what Amp to use. Admittedly I didn't go all the way to the last page, as I figured all of the relevant article posts would be inserted on the front page of the thread.

    I guess the other costs to consider are also the baffles for the mid drivers, sub box (I would need something low profile, similar perhaps to: Soundgateâ„¢ SubStageâ„¢ SCRU11 by Kicker Custom-fit powered subwoofer for 2011-up Chevrolet Cruze at Crutchfield.com without what seems to me as a ridiculous price tag.

    I guess I'd need to source an LOC as well since I intend on re-using the stock H/U, and then the requisite wiring supplies.

    Is there anything I missed?
    Last edited by CruzenBC; 08-21-2014 at 08:18 PM.
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    I don't recall which revision was which, but one was balanced and one was unbalanced. I believe you want the unbalanced one.

    Welcome to the world of raw drivers. If you can read the specs and know how to design a system, you'll get 10x the value as you would with car audio drivers.

    Most people are brainwashed by big brand marketing when it comes to car audio. Welcome to the brighter side mobile audio. You'll be quite surprised at the results you are about to achieve for only a minimally higher invested effort.

    I would recommend you leave the center channel out, in addition to disconnecting the rear channels. I guarantee that you will not feel anything is missing.

    Looks like you got everything figured out. However, I recommend against the Kicker Soundgate setup due to a very poor value. If you want something that will fit inside the corner, I have a partner that builds fiberglass enclosures to the tune of $255 shipped. I have a sticky thread in this section on that as well. He does good work, and people have been pleased with the enclosures he's sent them. I've been taking the orders for those.

    Just how badly do you want to stay away from a rectangular enclosure in your trunk? We could expand your options a bit if you didn't mind a vented 10" enclosure. I have just the trick too if you're looking for an amazing SQ driver but want some deep, deep bass for the occasional synthetic songs. On that note, what music DO you listen to?

    As for amplifiers, I've been recently fascinated by this beauty:

    Hifonics Boltar 900W 2-Channel Mt. Olympus Series Amplifier

    Class A/B amplification with 1000W @ 4 ohms. Surfboard amps for life! Should be enough power, don't ya think? You can get 700W @ 8 ohms out of it if you end up with a Dual-4 ohm sub. I do, however, recommend this subwoofer, either with the fiberglass enclosure or the vented one that I make:

    TC Sounds Epic 10" DVC Subwoofer

  6. #5
    CruzenBC is offline [OP]
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    Quote Originally Posted by XtremeRevolution View Post
    I don't recall which revision was which, but one was balanced and one was unbalanced. I believe you want the unbalanced one.

    Welcome to the world of raw drivers. If you can read the specs and know how to design a system, you'll get 10x the value as you would with car audio drivers.

    Most people are brainwashed by big brand marketing when it comes to car audio. Welcome to the brighter side mobile audio. You'll be quite surprised at the results you are about to achieve for only a minimally higher invested effort.

    I would recommend you leave the center channel out, in addition to disconnecting the rear channels. I guarantee that you will not feel anything is missing.

    Looks like you got everything figured out. However, I recommend against the Kicker Soundgate setup due to a very poor value. If you want something that will fit inside the corner, I have a partner that builds fiberglass enclosures to the tune of $255 shipped. I have a sticky thread in this section on that as well. He does good work, and people have been pleased with the enclosures he's sent them. I've been taking the orders for those.

    Just how badly do you want to stay away from a rectangular enclosure in your trunk? We could expand your options a bit if you didn't mind a vented 10" enclosure. I have just the trick too if you're looking for an amazing SQ driver but want some deep, deep bass for the occasional synthetic songs. On that note, what music DO you listen to?

    As for amplifiers, I've been recently fascinated by this beauty:

    Hifonics Boltar 900W 2-Channel Mt. Olympus Series Amplifier

    Class A/B amplification with 1000W @ 4 ohms. Surfboard amps for life! Should be enough power, don't ya think? You can get 700W @ 8 ohms out of it if you end up with a Dual-4 ohm sub. I do, however, recommend this subwoofer, either with the fiberglass enclosure or the vented one that I make:

    TC Sounds Epic 10" DVC Subwoofer
    Sweet, I'll look up those pieces after I get back, just about to head out for a cruze

    As for the music I listen to, anything with a good hook. Mellencamp, The Tragically Hip, Metallica, Daft Punk, Tom Petty, Johnny Cash, Tool, Slipknot, Seether etc. If the SQ of the recording is good I'll generally listen to it. I don't discriminate against genre, I've even been known to rock some Oakenfold, Tiesto, Crystal Method etc.

    I'm all over the board

    I forgot to mention, the reason for my aversion to a full box is the need to constantly haul around a gigantic collapsible stroller, and the ever present WAF

    Btw, are you advocating 2 2 channel amps, or the 2 channel amp in addition to the stock Pioneer amp? Is the OEM unit bridgeable on any of it's channels?
    Last edited by CruzenBC; 08-21-2014 at 10:38 PM.

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    Quote Originally Posted by CruzenBC View Post
    Sweet, I'll look up those pieces after I get back, just about to head out for a cruze

    As for the music I listen to, anything with a good hook. Mellencamp, The Tragically Hip, Metallica, Daft Punk, Tom Petty, Johnny Cash, Tool, Slipknot, Seether etc. If the SQ of the recording is good I'll generally listen to it. I don't discriminate against genre, I've even been known to rock some Oakenfold, Tiesto, Crystal Method etc.

    I'm all over the board

    I forgot to mention, the reason for my aversion to a full box is the need to constantly haul around a gigantic collapsible stroller, and the ever present WAF

    Btw, are you advocating 2 2 channel amps, or the 2 channel amp in addition to the stock Pioneer amp? Is the OEM unit bridgeable on any of it's channels?
    With the miniDSP, you will need a dedicated 4 channels of amplification. The amplifier I linked was for subwoofer duty, to be bridged. It is a bit steep on the price, but not for the power and quality. More just throwing it out there to see what you thought.

    Sounds like a sealed enclosure would be fine for you. You don't spend a lot of time in deep, nearly subsonic synthetic bass, but you wouldn't be satisfied with the Kicker sub either.

    WAF. Haha. I talk to so many guys who are unfortunately required to place that high on their priority list when designing home theater speakers. What a compromise. I'm blessed enough to have a wife that doesn't mind two 18" subs in my trunk.

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    Quote Originally Posted by CruzenBC View Post
    2. Replacement center speaker
    SKIP THIS! Center channels ruin staging and imaging!

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    I agree with xtremes recommendations so far. I have a bad donkey MMATS SQ4160 4 Channel for sale, and I am willing to let it go super cheap!
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    CruzenBC is offline [OP]
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    Quote Originally Posted by XtremeRevolution View Post
    With the miniDSP, you will need a dedicated 4 channels of amplification. The amplifier I linked was for subwoofer duty, to be bridged. It is a bit steep on the price, but not for the power and quality. More just throwing it out there to see what you thought.

    Sounds like a sealed enclosure would be fine for you. You don't spend a lot of time in deep, nearly subsonic synthetic bass, but you wouldn't be satisfied with the Kicker sub either.

    WAF. Haha. I talk to so many guys who are unfortunately required to place that high on their priority list when designing home theater speakers. What a compromise. I'm blessed enough to have a wife that doesn't mind two 18" subs in my trunk.
    Okay, that's kind of what I thought but good to know. My intention is to install this in such a way that it parallels the current physical install, making it dead easy to go back to stock if I sell the car. Obviously front mids and tweets will need to be physically replaced, as will the stock LCD (unless I can re-use it), and the stock amp.

    I've decided that I'm going to go for the whole 9, replacing the stock head unit with a RaspberryPi unit + mobile WiFi hotspot (so my phone can simply pair with bluetooth for hands free dialing) with an ACC relay that will auto boot/gracefully shutdown the unit.

    As a developer by trade, I intend on creating a custom one off Android OS install specific to the carPC to run on the Pi.

    I'll be outputting sound to a USB DAC (http://www.amazon.ca/Ultra-Low-Laten.../dp/B000KW2YEI caught my eye) then into the DSP, on to the amps and finally the speakers.

    If possible I need to know if the LCD that comes with the Pioneer can be re-purposed without much if any physical modification -- I can't seem to find any specs or drawings or even photos of the internals... quite aggravating.

    Quote Originally Posted by hificruzer226 View Post
    I agree with xtremes recommendations so far. I have a bad donkey MMATS SQ4160 4 Channel for sale, and I am willing to let it go super cheap!
    With the retail @ 900 on that, how cheap is super cheap?

    In general, I've upped my budget to 1500 for the build.

    Between the front stage (minus amp), sub stage (with amp), total gear is at the ~650 mark give or take.

    So things left to shop for are

    Carpeted corner sub enclosure ($225 + shipping)
    4-channel SQ amp
    Speaker Wire
    Upgraded battery cabling
    Various RCA cabling (USB DAC -> DSP -> Amps)
    Raspberry Pi, Case and Boot/Shutdown circuit (~$100)

    Taking into account the unknowns, it leaves me 525 for amp, speaker wire, battery cabling and interconnects. Battery cabling/interconnects/speaker wire I can see running me a good $100 which leaves about 400-425 for an amp, and thats assuming I even want to spend to budget :P

    Any 4-channel amp recommendations in the 200-250 range?

    Does it make sense to run a power distribution block in the rear to keep the runs nice and clean for the two amps? How much are those running these days?
    Last edited by CruzenBC; 08-22-2014 at 05:26 PM.

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