How to bypass your clutch switch

[TravsCruze]

Some would wonder, why in the world someone would want to bypass their clutch switch. Yes its there for "safety" reasons, but i've drove MT's all my life. I understand that every time i start my car the clutch is alway in and its always in neutral. If you don't do this, its a good habit to get into. Others might have their own reasons and i'm not here to debate safety issues. I needed a solution to a problem and this is the fix.

The main reason for this modification for me was to prevent possibly damaging an aftermarket clutch that may be over extended while attempting to start the car. I ran into this situation once i installed my new twin disc clutch this past weekend. The throw was to far and the TOB was over extending the PP.

After unbolting the switch from its location, I realized it was not a momentary switch like I had seen in pretty much every vehicle. Which led me to document it and post the fix so that if anyone else needed to bypass their switch they would be able to do so easily.

Some noted observations of this switch is that it is a linear 5k ohm potentiometer. The cars PCM requires approx 3.3k OR 1.68k ohms to make the starter engage. These values are also roughly the exact same when the clutch is in its resting position at the top of the throw. Although they are on the opposite poles of the switch. Which is why i can't tell you which does which.. haha. If one set of values doesn't start it, flip the resistances over and it will.

If you go outside of the given values by very much you will throw codes on the dash. The traction control and stability control codes in particular.

Anyway.. it doesn't really matter.. on with the modification.

They say a pictures worth a thousand words, so here ya go, this is how you bypass your clutch switch safely, for free, and with nothing more than a sharp blade and some glue.

[FatKidsCruze]

Cool great write up! I would not be able tondo this cuz my wife would forget and try to start the car in gear, or still push the clutch in all the way...

[Dale_K]

Are there 2 switches? I put the aftermarket Rostra cruise control in my car and a clutch switch is involved during operation of the cruise. If I depress the clutch even a small amount the cruise control disengages (drops the throttle). This was one of the first things I checked after I installed the Rostra unit because I was worried that if I forgot about the cruise and pushed in the clutch to downshift going up a hill the motor might rev out of control. The cruise cut off when I pressed down the clutch only a small amount. I assumed there must be 2 clutch switches - one for the starter interlock at the bottom of the clutch travel and the other for the cruise at the top of the travel.

You might want to double check your cruise operation with the modified switch. The cruise probably still works but it might not disengage if you forget to turn it off before shifting.

[Skilz10179]

I was thinking the same thing as Dale. I've had it happen to me on a car with an aftermarket cruise control kit, push in the clutch while the cruise is on and the engine will rev up and start bouncing off the rev limiter...

[TravsCruze]

okay... well.. i'm gonna clear up some stuff.. make some observations of the after effect and generally chalk this up as a huge E for effort on my part.

Luckily i had already emailed Vince yesterday and he is trying to turn the interlock off via the tune. But this route was something else I was trying in the hopes that i could save him some work. But i will be the first to admit when i was wrong or made a mistake.

So i'm gonna start this out by saying... DON'T DO THIS MOD!! ROFL!!

1)Yes, it makes your cruise control inoperative... completely and totally inoperative. It needs the ohm reading from when the pedal is at resting rate to operate. Outside that it says NOOOoooooo i'm not working.
2) works if you absolutely have to start your car, like in my current situation where the switch is in conflict with the clutch. I just couldn't risk my clutch thats more expensive than an entire new transmission.
3) if you ever chirp the tires with this mod, it instantly throws traction control and stability control codes on the dash. Guess it thinks breaking a tire loose and it "thinking" this clutch pushed in is in conflict.. BLAM!! CODES!! learned that one about 20-30 miles into my drive this morning. haha
4) once it throws codes, it doesn't work the same. You have to kind of reset the switch by cycling it from left to right before the starter will engage. (so i look like i'm hot wiring my car every time i start it.. its sexy and completely how i roll)

So there ya go.. you all at least (as well as i) know how this switch works now. Plus i've had tons of fun in the process of this little adventure, and learned something new, so everything is all good.

hopefully Vince can figure out the interlock as i've already order a replacement switch, they are like $8 from rockauto.com

[Dale_K]

Seriously, I admire your guts and curiosity and willingness to learn stuff first hand.

[TravsCruze]

Seriously, I admire your guts and curiosity and willingness to learn stuff first hand.

Thanks Dale!!

okay.. now I need to go finish my clutch stop... time to tear up more stuff!! haha

[NBrehm]

If it is wired like the trans am was, 2 of the wires are the start circuit and the third is the cruise circuit. When I put the Auto in my car the cruise switch went to the PNP switch but to get rid of the start override I just cut the 2 wires and attached them to each other. Not sure how this switch is wired but the one on the T/A was just a simple close the loop type switch

[TravsCruze]

If it is wired like the trans am was, 2 of the wires are the start circuit and the third is the cruise circuit. When I put the Auto in my car the cruise switch went to the PNP switch but to get rid of the start override I just cut the 2 wires and attached them to each other. Not sure how this switch is wired but the one on the T/A was just a simple close the loop type switch

man i wish it was just a momentary switch.

if all other routes fail, i can still bypass all this. But it would most likely mean losing my T/C which isn't really a big deal to me and probably my stability control. Like i really care about either. But in the end, its just a box that reads electrical signals. It can be fooled.