The Car Audio SQ "How-To" Thread - Page 38
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Thread: The Car Audio SQ "How-To" Thread

  1. #371
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    Quote Originally Posted by XtremeRevolution View Post
    The plastic door panels don't need to be modified. Here's what this would look like:



    The baffles are designed such that no modifications would be necessary, and the speaker clears all parts of the door, assuming it is mounted centered with the opening in the metal.
    Nice... That's exactly what I wanted to hear.

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  3. #372
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    Can someone tell me, I have NO idea what to look for other than Xtreme's suggestions. For tweeter:

    2" Aluminum Tweeter
    PMPO Output Power 1000 W
    RMS Output Power 500 W
    Maximum Frequency Response 20 kHz
    Minimum Frequency Response 800 Hz

  4. #373
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    Quote Originally Posted by krinksta View Post
    Can someone tell me, I have NO idea what to look for other than Xtreme's suggestions. For tweeter:

    2" Aluminum Tweeter
    PMPO Output Power 1000 W
    RMS Output Power 500 W
    Maximum Frequency Response 20 kHz
    Minimum Frequency Response 800 Hz
    If you have no idea what to look for, you're better off just taking my suggestion instead of buying something you have absolutely no data on and don't know anything about. Is there something wrong with the Vifa tweeter I recommended?
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  5. #374
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    Quote Originally Posted by XtremeRevolution View Post
    I don't recommend rear speakers. That said, if you do put in rear speakers, it will add a bit of complexity to the system. My rear passengers don't particularly enjoy listening to music in the car at loud volumes so I just keep it down. You really have to make a decision between rear passenger comfort and ultimate sound quality.
    What about using the Silver Flutes in both the front and the rear and running them in parallel (2 ohms) on the same two channels of the amp? That way they will all have the same x-over properties controlled by the miniDSP.

  6. #375
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    Quote Originally Posted by 2ltCruzer View Post
    What about using the Silver Flutes in both the front and the rear and running them in parallel (2 ohms) on the same two channels of the amp? That way they will all have the same x-over properties controlled by the miniDSP.
    This is not a very good idea simply because you will be compromising your sound stage and things will start to sound like they're behind you. You will not be able to control front-to-rear fading. What benefit is there to have something playing behind you up to 1600hz? I can't think of any. The fronts will be more on-axis than the rear. For the rear speakers, you will hear only the reflections, which will muffle the sound and make tuning more difficult. There's just no benefit to doing it this way, but it increases your cost by $70 plus adapters. I can think of quite a few ways that money could be better spent.
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  7. #376
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    Quote Originally Posted by XtremeRevolution View Post
    This is not a very good idea simply because you will be compromising your sound stage and things will start to sound like they're behind you. You will not be able to control front-to-rear fading. What benefit is there to have something playing behind you up to 1600hz? I can't think of any. The fronts will be more on-axis than the rear. For the rear speakers, you will hear only the reflections, which will muffle the sound and make tuning more difficult. There's just no benefit to doing it this way, but it increases your cost by $70 plus adapters. I can think of quite a few ways that money could be better spent.
    Enough said. I will be ordering two Silver Flutes and two Vifa tweeters today. Send me a PM with your payment info and I'll get a pair of front baffles from you.

    Thanks, XR.

  8. #377
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    What do you think about these subs, XR? Image Dynamics ID15 v-3 They seem to be a cheaper version of the IDQ.

  9. #378
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    Quote Originally Posted by 2ltCruzer View Post
    What do you think about these subs, XR? Image Dynamics ID15 v-3 They seem to be a cheaper version of the IDQ.
    Well, that's because they are cheaper. I wouldn't use the ID series; only the IDQ or IDMax series.
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  10. #379
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    Quote Originally Posted by XtremeRevolution View Post
    Well, that's because they are cheaper. I wouldn't use the ID series; only the IDQ or IDMax series.
    May I ask why? (I am not questioning your judgment, I just like to hear the details.)

  11. #380
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    Quote Originally Posted by 2ltCruzer View Post
    May I ask why? (I am not questioning your judgment, I just like to hear the details.)
    Lower motor strength, cheaper build quality, less accurate. I mean, they'd be ok if you were on a budget, but the way I see it, do it right, or don't do it at all. If you can't afford an IDQ, then you need to save more money before you start your car audio install.
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