35-45 mph speeds right out the gate and it does fine (stick shift, and I let the revs get above 2k for most shifts). The heat gets hot around 1/4 mark on the temp gauge...it takes a while to reach full operating temp if I'm blasting the heater, but within 5 miles of highway driving, it'll hit the 1/2-way mark by the time I'm off my exit.
If you shift at 1500-1800 RPM or idle all the time, you're not going to make any heat from a small engine. There's an idiotic stoplight outside my complex that will sometimes wait for 5 minutes to turn, and sometimes turn as soon as you get there. If I sit there idling after just starting the car, yeah, it doesn't warm up at all.
Rev it up a bit more to 2-3K and let the turbo boost a little bit (after 2 minutes or so, it's fine to push a little harder). That makes a lot of heat, and I really don't care about getting the best gas mileage I possibly can by driving like a grandma. It's good enough as is.
Mine's an LT and doesn't have the Eco shutters - the shutters really shouldn't make a difference UNTIL the thermostat opens and sends water through the radiator.I think one of the reasons this works for me is the ECO's shutters are closed, even at low speed, when it's cold outside which reduces the amount of cold air directly hitting the engine.
As soon as the heated O2 sensor warms up. 1-2 minutes? The car will run a slightly rich mixture at idle til the coolant temp sensor shows 190 deg. I believe the later-production 2012's did not have the DIC coolant temp display - my 10/2011 does.I'd love to know why my 2012 eco doesn't have the temp readout in the DIC.
Does anyone know at what temp the car goes closed loop? I've been waiting until mine reaches full running temp before turning on any heat because I want to be sure it's in closed loop.
If your Cruze takes 10 minutes to warm up to the point where the needle even begins to move, you've got a bad thermostat.



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