aust sri-v 1.6l engine, cooling fan problems.
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Thread: aust sri-v 1.6l engine, cooling fan problems.

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    minsik is offline [OP]
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    aust sri-v 1.6l engine, cooling fan problems.

    HI.

    Sri-v 1.6L petrol turbo engine.
    Last couple of dealer services the DIC showed "service vehicle soon" message and the cooling fan runs like a jet engine at 100% flat out even with cool engine and no a/c on right after the service. Then dealer advice was to just pump the accelerator 5 times with acc only powered then turn off and start car. That has worked for previous 2 services but now we have a problem where the message appears, then the fan runs at 100% speed for a while, cycles off for a short period then repeats over and over. Nothing showing on obdii adapter and software ie error codes, however its only cheap chineese adapter, but can read speed rpm etc.

    DIC Coolant temperature seems to be nearly normal heating up to about 100C and of course not reaching 104-108 as the fan is running more often than not.
    Dial coolant temp seems normal as well, not moving till 50c is reached then stabilising at about 1/2 display. Coolant level seems fine also.

    Dealer cant look at car (not happy jan) for nearly 2 weeks.

    Any ideas or suggestions of things to check guys? Not frightened of multimeter or in depth checking.

    Very disappointed I have never been able to locate a service manual too!
    Aussie likes this.
    Minsik from Australia.
    Holden SRi-V 1.6 Turbo, 18" wheels/tyres,
    Australian tuned sports suspension with Watts link.

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  3. #2
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    Have you tried disconnecting the negative battery cable for 10-15 minutes, this resets the computer and sometimes fixes strange problems.

    Could try here?

    http://www.supercheapauto.com.au/brands/haynes-online
    Last edited by Aussie; 04-25-2017 at 03:23 AM.
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    You can get access to the same on-line site the dealers use to look things up: https://www.acdelcotds.com

    it costs USD20 for three days access, I pulled down everything I thought I would need over a bit of a marathon, but it won't give you much help if it's not throwing a code.
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    Driver's Ed Sklyn's Avatar
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    sounds like thermostat to me. I had same warning after service, took it back for them to clear code, it came back, they finally decided to plug in and dianose properly and had to replace thermostat. all good since, apart from needing coolant lines and bottle also replaced under recall/warranty.

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    minsik is offline [OP]
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    thanks for the replies.

    Just started car from cold, 19c. Car runs and warms up over the next 15-20 minutes where there is NO fan operation unless the a/c is turned on defrost or cooling and then it is slow. When the temp gets to 50c DIC coolant temp the dial meter meter starts to move (i assume thats engine temperature) and both keep increasing until the engine temp reaches midpoint and stabilises there, while coolant keeps increasing to nearly 100 where the engine warning light comes on and the fan goes into jet mode. Coolant temp never reaches normal hot of around 104-108 which it always used to. Normally fan doesn't start until it gets to 108c where the fan turns on slowly and off at 104c approx.

    So that explains why i drove home from the service (short distance) and didn't see/hear fan roaring problem. Engine probably didn't get to 100c. However it seems to me that both engine sensor and coolant sensor are working and doing their jobs and the problem might be a seperate temp sensor just for the alarm point which would throw a warning and turn the fan on high.

    Seems we will wait until can returned for dealer checking to find out the real reason.

    thanks again for the thoughts.

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    minsik is offline [OP]
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    thanks Aussie. Yes that was the first thing but it made no difference. Last time when accidently left in drive when the battery went total flat that was needed to reset many things which worked all ok after the reboot.
    appreciate the help and hope that you and yours are all well.
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    minsik is offline [OP]
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    Update. Problem is now fixed but by a torturous path.
    3 weeks after the problem occurred (same day as dealer service) we finally got the car looked at yesterday.
    Phone call to advise me the thermostat housing was cracked and thermostat required, tot $750 (parts=$360). Boy that seems steep. I didnt want a new engine!

    Thinks.

    Queried "well if there is something cracked it is not wear and tear so should be part of the extended warranty we took out?" After many phone calls we get, "yes that's right, it will be covered under u/w but you have to pay $100 for coolant".

    At that point having gone from $750 down to $100 i agreed to that, collected car and all seems working well again.

    I have strange feelings that can I really trust what i am being told?
    Anyway car back to normal.

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    There is no way coolant would cost $100, anyway it was because of the faulty part that you lost it in the first place. That is why I don't use Holden to service my car.

    Here is what it costs at Supercheap Auto.

    http://www.supercheapauto.com.au/sto...maryViewsTotal
    Last edited by Aussie; 05-06-2017 at 01:08 AM.
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    Sup Aussie ... ya know ya gotta pay the dealer for the tech to filler up with anti boil ...just sayin ...

    Supercheap sounds supercheap though ..does IT come with the burps ?
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    Can't say much about Australian cars, here is 36 bucks for a Gates, 44 bucks for an AC Delco, would stick with Gates.



    Recall seeing some cast aluminum types, now only seeing plastic.

    Blaming the cooling fan on a coolant leak? Leaks are the first thing to check, rather than buying a reservoir cap kit, everyone has to be different, at one time radiator caps were all standard. Just purchase a spare cap, taped a 1/4" NPT hole in it, epoxied in a air hose coupler, hooked this up to my air compressor and set the pressure to 30 psi.

    While some use a florescent die, Dexcool is red, not color blind, can see it spraying out.

    Just have to drop the coolant below the thermostat level, one connector, two bolts, like doing this myself because I take a couple of extra minutes to make sure the gasket surfaces are clean. If you don't, will get leaks.

    Know this is after the fact, but did say your housing was cracked so assuming your coolant level was low. Always the first thing to check. Always have to drive these things a couple of days, is self purging and will need to top it off when cold.

    Cooling systems 101.

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