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Bigger brakes for the Cruze under $400.

124K views 173 replies 31 participants last post by  Champagne Jam 
#1 · (Edited)
Before making any changes to your car you must have the skills and the tools. If you don't have both, have your licensed auto mechanic do the work. No exceptions. Brakes are a life and death situation. Going is optional, stopping is mandatory.

Thanks to the Sonic forum for much research on this swap. The most aggravating part of getting bigger brakes for the Cruze is the bolt pattern of 5x105. There are a lot of options open if you want to change your hubs to a larger bolt pattern. I did not want to change mostly because of having 5 wheels and tires in the stock pattern. Getting a spare wheel and tire in the 18" LTZ stock configuration cost me about $200. I added about 3 inches of hard foam to the tire well to make a stock rim and tire fit. Some cutting of the carpet mat was also required.

Now onto the brake swap. The Sonic folks had figured out that the Buick Encore had larger rotors in the 5x105 pattern. Score! No need to change hubs. The caliper from the Cruze is the same as the Encore except for the mounting brackets. I did not have to open the hydraulic system to make the swap. I found dust shields in the larger size, most likely from the Cruze diesel model. Add the Encore's larger brake pads and I'm done right?

Not so fast. The mounting holes are the right distance center to center but the Encore bracket uses 14mm bolts. The mounting holes will need to be drilled to accommodate. The drill I used is 35/64" just under the 14mm size. Because the drilling process is never perfect, this size drill bit was perfect. IF YOU DON'T HAVE THE SKILLS TO TAKE THIS STEP, STOP RIGHT NOW. You also need a socket for the large nut on the axle in 32mm.

All right, now the instructions for the swap. Jack the car's front end up and place it securely on quality jack stands. Don't even attempt any car work with out jack stands.
Remove the wheels with a 19mm socket. Remove the two caliper bolts with a 18mm socket. Hang the caliper with wire or place it on a small box like I did. Don't let the caliper hang by the hose. (If you are doing this swap you already know this). Pull the old pads and clips. Remove the rotor retaining torx bolt and then the rotor. Remove the axle nut with the 32mm and then the 3 hub bolt (from the backside) they are also 18mm. Gently remove the hub and the old dust shield. I cleaned the hub and then removed the caliper brackets 10mm bolts. You don't have to take the caliper bracket bolts out to swap brackets. I did it to make cleaning the caliper easier. You want this to look good right? Push the caliper pot back into the caliper using a brake spreader.

For drilling the mounting holes I put a large piece of cardboard on the floor and covered both the caliper and the axle and hub opening with rags. When drilling, I chose to use two drill sizes to get to the 14mm size. I started with an 1/2" bit and then went to the 35/64". DON'T DO THAT. It was a pain you know where. Both bits grabbed and drilling was hard on both passes. Just use the 35/64" bit alone. That's what I did on the other side and it went quickly, still some grabbing but much easier. After drilling get the vacuum and clean up the metal filings. For some reason my wife insists on this step.


Now for the reassembly, I did the caliper work on the cardboard box and that worked great. I did the caliper now because with the dust shield removed there is more room.
Place the pad holding clips in now. Why? It's easier than when the caliper is assembled. Put some brake grease into the holes of the brake caliper where the sliding rods go. Slip the rods back into the bracket and assemble the caliper with the 10mm bolts. Insert the brake pads and push the box back out of the way.

Put back the hub bolts and let them stick out. Put the new shield in place on the protruding bolts, the hub holds it together. Gently slide the hub back over the axle shaft and finger tighten the hub bolts. It will take some wiggling, but it's not difficult. Tighten the hub bolts to torque spec. Replace the axle nut and torque to spec. Replace the rotor and retaining screw. Replace the caliper and torque the bolts to spec.

Stand back and grin. Man they look good!


Disc brake Auto part Vehicle brake Brake Machine
 
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#88 ·
Well I still haven't got my Cruze back for the new trans so I'll have to go next Tuesday to see how well stock 16's will fit on an encore. 1/8" is pretty tight if it's the same as the spare steelie. Definitely not planning on upgrading to 17s or 18s either. At that point I would just get upgraded pads and rotors for it.
 
#90 ·
Well I got a '16 Chevy Trax as a rental since the cruze is in for a water pump. Found out that they're still using the same caliper brackets for the '16 trax as the '13 encore. And the stock wheels are 16s with the brake system and they fit. Think I will be ordering some parts over the weekend for the swap.
 
#92 ·
Yes, it does.
 
#99 ·
for the guys who did this upgrade big question. the bolt that hold the caliper bracket to the spindle is not the same one that is used for the original caliper bracket? right LOL this is why a bigger hole was drilled because that bracket uses a bigger bolt AKA a 14 MM bolt? & if yes what lenth size & TPI??? Last question. In the original write up it says he got new caliper bolt slide pins? Is this correct? I looked up part numbers & I think the encore & cruze use the same caliber slide pin bolts? to get list rotors, pads, caliper brackets, new bolt for caliper bracket, bigger dust shields. thanks to every1 WOO HOO :)
 
#100 · (Edited)
Yes I changed the splash shields with the numbers in the original post. You will have to take the wheel bearings out to remove the old splash shields for the new rotors anyways, so the $25 total to replace them with the correct size isn't much and makes it look stock.

Yes, you do need to drill out for the larger bolts. There is no tapping of anything though because the threads are in the new caliper brackets. You just drill the steering knuckle out to the 35/64 drill size and the new caliper bracket mounting bolts slide right through. If you were asking what the bolt size is I didn't pay attention. It's only like $14 for 4 correct bolts that are made for it, which are anti-corrosion with thread lock already applied.

As far as the caliper slide pins, they are the same and mine were not corroded and moved freely. I just wiped down and put new grease on them and reused.
 
#101 ·
Ok thanks for the quick descriptive reply. I ask all these questions because when I lookup those numbers @ Gm parts direct they say they are for the verano & cruzebut all makes & models from diesel cruze to the 2.0 verano. I think thecruze diesel has bigger rotors than a 1.4 turbo stock. So is it an error on GMdirect site? Here are a few links & once again thanks for input guys

Dust shields #13324458 at $12 and #13324459 at $13

http://www.gmpartsdirect.com/oe-gm/13324459

SPLASH SHIELD - 2013 Buick Encore (95286840)

http://www.gmpartsdirect.com/buick/encore/95286840/2013-year/base-trim/1-4l-l4-gas-engine/brakes-cat/brake-components-scat/?part_name=splash-shield

PS: I think I got the part number for the new caliperbracket bolt from GM 11546339 that we would need for this upgrade
http://www.ebay.com/itm/BRAND-NEW-GENUINE-GM-OEM-DISC-BRAKE-CALIPER-BRACKET-MOUNTING-BOLT-11546339-/361450180898?hash=item54281c1122:g:~uoAAOSwAuNW7h0H&vxp=mtr

 
#105 ·
I hope last question what's the difference from these rotors part number 13502060 $77.52 & 23118342 $55.82?? they both fit the chevy trax. I think GM rotors come in a painted coated & non-coated rotors. is this the difference from these two?

ROTOR | Genuine GM | 13502060

ROTOR | Genuine GM | 23118342
I already covered this several posts before and I stated that they are the same coated rotor. The more expensive one is from Korea, the cheaper one is from Mexico. Talking closely with parts reps I have not heard much good of parts coming from Korea.
 
#104 ·
Look into using the high quality EBC Brake rotors. Nothing against GM, but they do buy from the lowest bidder. Everything I have ever used from EBC has been top quality and I will be installing EBC pads and rotors on my Cruze and my son's TDI soon.
 
#107 ·
Look into using the high quality EBC Brake rotors. Nothing against GM, but they do buy from the lowest bidder. Everything I have ever used from EBC has been top quality and I will be installing EBC pads and rotors on my Cruze and my son's TDI soon.
all my race and street bikes have ebc on them.
 
#111 ·
7,500 mile update. Lots of mixed driving. From a run to Portland from Reno up I5 to twisty 2 lane. A good amount of city driving.
Very happy with the brakes, no issues noted. Long down hill stretches with confidence. Thanks to all the people who liked this thread and also the ones who viewed the thread.
 
#112 ·
10,000 miles on the brake upgrade now. I don't even think about the brakes. They are a seamless part of the car and driving experience. That is the best possible outcome. If every time you drive, you get reminded that there is a change. That would ruin the swap. I am thinking that they will out last the stock setup because of the increased pad and rotor area. Cheers!
 
#117 ·
I just wanted to jump in here and let everyone know that the caliper carriers are backordered across the US. First, I checked with GM Part Direct and in typical fashion they screwed up. They didn't let me know they were backordered. I then went to my local dealership and had them check across the nation and found two places in California that had them. I then scoured the internet looking on eBay, Amazon, etc. only to have them get crushed in shipping from the one place that had them. I ended up having to buy calipers and carriers from a salvage yard for a lot more than I wanted to. That would be part number 13372779 for those following along. I am still coming in under the $400 quoted here, but I was hoping to be all in for around $260.
 
#118 ·
I am surprised that no one is using the Centrix rotors off Rock Auto. I will be doing this soon, but will use those rotors and pads. The cost of those alone will make it quite a bit cheaper.
 
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#119 ·
Before making any changes to your car you must have the skills and the tools. If you don't have both, have your licensed auto mechanic do the work. No exceptions. Brakes are a life and death situation. Going is optional, stopping is mandatory.

Thanks to the Sonic forum for much research on this swap. The most aggravating part of getting bigger brakes for the Cruze is the bolt pattern of 5x105. There are a lot of options open if you want to change your hubs to a larger bolt pattern. I did not want to change mostly because of having 5 wheels and tires in the stock pattern. Getting a spare wheel and tire in the 18" LTZ stock configuration cost me about $200. I added about 3 inches of hard foam to the tire well to make a stock rim and tire fit. Some cutting of the carpet mat was also required.

Now onto the brake swap. The Sonic folks had figured out that the Buick Encore had larger rotors in the 5x105 pattern. Score! No need to change hubs. The caliper from the Cruze is the same as the Encore except for the mounting brackets. I did not have to open the hydraulic system to make the swap. I found dust shields in the larger size, most likely from the Cruze diesel model. Add the Encore's larger brake pads and I'm done right?

Not so fast. The mounting holes are the right distance center to center but the Encore bracket uses 14mm bolts. The mounting holes will need to be drilled to accommodate. The drill I used is 35/64" just under the 14mm size. Because the drilling process is never perfect, this size drill bit was perfect. IF YOU DON'T HAVE THE SKILLS TO TAKE THIS STEP, STOP RIGHT NOW. You also need a socket for the large nut on the axle in 32mm.

All right, now the instructions for the swap. Jack the car's front end up and place it securely on quality jack stands. Don't even attempt any car work with out jack stands.
Remove the wheels with a 19mm socket. Remove the two caliper bolts with a 18mm socket. Hang the caliper with wire or place it on a small box like I did. Don't let the caliper hang by the hose. (If you are doing this swap you already know this). Pull the old pads and clips. Remove the rotor retaining torx bolt and then the rotor. Remove the axle nut with the 32mm and then the 3 hub bolt (from the backside) they are also 18mm. Gently remove the hub and the old dust shield. I cleaned the hub and then removed the caliper brackets 10mm bolts. You don't have to take the caliper bracket bolts out to swap brackets. I did it to make cleaning the caliper easier. You want this to look good right? Push the caliper pot back into the caliper using a brake spreader.

For drilling the mounting holes I put a large piece of cardboard on the floor and covered both the caliper and the axle and hub opening with rags. When drilling, I chose to use two drill sizes to get to the 14mm size. I started with an 1/2" bit and then went to the 35/64". DON'T DO THAT. It was a pain you know where. Both bits grabbed and drilling was hard on both passes. Just use the 35/64" bit alone. That's what I did on the other side and it went quickly, still some grabbing but much easier. After drilling get the vacuum and clean up the metal filings. For some reason my wife insists on this step.


Now for the reassembly, I did the caliper work on the cardboard box and that worked great. I did the caliper now because with the dust shield removed there is more room.
Place the pad holding clips in now. Why? It's easier than when the caliper is assembled. Put some brake grease into the holes of the brake caliper where the sliding rods go. Slip the rods back into the bracket and assemble the caliper with the 10mm bolts. Insert the brake pads and push the box back out of the way.

Put back the hub bolts and let them stick out. Put the new shield in place on the protruding bolts, the hub holds it together. Gently slide the hub back over the axle shaft and finger tighten the hub bolts. It will take some wiggling, but it's not difficult. Tighten the hub bolts to torque spec. Replace the axle nut and torque to spec. Replace the rotor and retaining screw. Replace the caliper and torque the bolts to spec.

Stand back and grin. Man they look good!


View attachment 181809
So did you only do this to the front brakes and not the rears?? If so just curious as to why and can this be done to the rear as well?? Maybe I missed where you did this all the way around, just checking your parts list and only saw 2 rotors. Thanks
 
#123 ·
Nope, never. And I traded my 14 in for a 17 Premier Hatch. Sorry for the late reply. Post got buried.


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