How-To: Replace Thermostat Housing & Thermostat (1.8L)
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Thread: How-To: Replace Thermostat Housing & Thermostat (1.8L)

  1. #1
    Resident Derp Smurfenstein's Avatar
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    How-To: Replace Thermostat Housing & Thermostat (1.8L)

    Recently I got a code for my Thermostat Heater Control Circuit Low & Open, so I purchased a new thermostat w/housing and I realized that theres no how-to write up for the swap. Anyhow, here's my write up, with a couple pics from my Note 4.

    Tools Needed
    - Torx socket (I believe T20-T25, I'll double check monday)
    - Hose Pliers
    - Needle Nose Pliers
    - Bucket

    Steps
    Now, first off you need to drain your coolant (of course), thankfully all I had to do is remove my bumper and drain it without jacking my car up, even though I'm lowered. The drain nozzle is located underneath the passenger headlight on the bottom of the radiator, as seen in the pictures below. Be careful when un-screwing, as there is a bleeder nipple pointing towards the rear of the car, and some coolant will pour out of the nipple while you're getting unscrewing the last half of the threads.




    Next step, is to remove the upper radiator hose from the thermostat housing. Use your pliers to move the spring clamp and pull the hose off:



    After that, un-do the two Torx bolts holding the hard pipe feed from the thermostat housing:



    With the hard pipe undone, unscrew the 4 main bolts that attach the thermostat housing to the engine block followed by the two clip on sensors:


    Last of all is this pesky temperature sensor on top. In order to get this thing off you need to unscrew it, while giving a slight pull until it comes out. once its out, simply reverse the steps and install your shiny, brand new thermostat housing & thermostat:


    Sorry for the lack of pictures, if you have any questions or want more pictures post below and I'll update the thread Monday night. Have a good one, and I hope this helps someone out further on down the road!
    spacedout, Cleck, brian v and 3 others like this.
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  3. #2
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    Thanks for the writeup!
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  4. #3
    Handbrake Released ehousel's Avatar
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    man draining the coolant system? just pull off that hose on the thermostat housing when its cold enough. I do this on any car i work on.

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  6. #4
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    I noticed a coolant leak coming from the bottom of the pipe feed to the thermostat. I'm trying to find out the name of the pipe feed in order to buy the seal or O-ring for it. I cannot locate the part for it. Any help would be appreciated.

  7. #5
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    jbuzzett-

    Take a look at the following link. I believe that bottom pipe is the coolant like to the oil cooler. The seal appears to be listed.

    Also study this diagram. It appears that the bottom of block attachment point of the thermostat may has a plugged blind hole that has a gasket? Specifically 314 & 315 on the diagram. Looks like there's a tapped plug for a sensor that may not be used in the 1.8L North American Unit.


    ENGINE ASM-1.8L L4 PART 3 FRONT COVER & COOLING. Fits: 2011 Chevrolet Cruze | Nalley Buick GMC Brunswick
    Last edited by carbon02; 02-19-2015 at 09:19 AM.
    tdc likes this.
    2012 Cruze LT, 1.4L, AT 78,000 Miles as of 1/19
    Looking for EV for next car.. Bolt or maybe Model 3 if Chevy doesn't speed up their EV's to the marketplace!

    Previous Rides
    2002 Intrigue 3.5L,LX5, AT 135,000- Owned for 10 years.. PM for Intrigue help. P1811 also a problem with this car.
    2000 Intrigue 3.5L, LX5, AT, 89,000- Owned for 12 years.. Dreaded P1811 killed this transmission.

  8. #6
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    Thanks carbon02! I have a 2012 1.8L, I am assuming the 2011 parts would be the same. I think it's part number 320 (seal) that went bad. I cannot find any leak around the thermostat housing, it's directly under the pipe feed where it attaches to TSTAT.

  9. #7
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    I think the 2012 would be the same. You could always check the catalogs over at GM Parts Direct: Your direct source for Genuine GM Parts as well, but they don't show the detail as much as the one I linked to.

    That is the coolant line from the oil cooler back to the engine, if I'm analyzing the drawing correctly.

    Rockauto has this ring, but you have to buy 10 of them in a package for 1.56 each. I wonder how finding these small parts will be at a local dealer? If they have them they may charge a small arm and a leg.

    There's lot's of O-rings and seals on these 1.8L and 1.4L turbo engines. I have a feeling as we approach the 4 -5 year mark now for age, we're going to be tracking a lot of smells and leaks!

    Glad to help.
    2012 Cruze LT, 1.4L, AT 78,000 Miles as of 1/19
    Looking for EV for next car.. Bolt or maybe Model 3 if Chevy doesn't speed up their EV's to the marketplace!

    Previous Rides
    2002 Intrigue 3.5L,LX5, AT 135,000- Owned for 10 years.. PM for Intrigue help. P1811 also a problem with this car.
    2000 Intrigue 3.5L, LX5, AT, 89,000- Owned for 12 years.. Dreaded P1811 killed this transmission.

  10. #8
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    Thanks for posting Smurfenstein- my question is- i have the code on my 2011 cruze and when i look to buy the part inoline gm says its discontinued? And doesnt even direct you to another part#
    What is this nonsense? I just need a thermostat. Do I really need to call GM and go through all of THAT bs?

    Thanks!

  11. #9
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    Still like making my so-called thermostat soup, just put it on the range in a pot of water with a good cooking thermometer so I can see with my own eyes what temperature it opens and closes at. I tie a wire to it so I can pull it out, heard a rumor that boiling water can burn you, do this three times so I think I have a winner.

    Takes a few extra minutes, but they don't test this crap anymore, already had to take several back. And very frustrating to do all this work on your own time to learn you have a defective one. Testing in the vehicle is the worse place to find this out and even has been known to affect my language.

    Now with the Cruze, more problems, will have to find a pressure cooker with a glass top to do the same thing, at my altitude water only boils at 209*F, doesn't get any hotter than this. Second problem is to apply 12V to the heater coil, suppose to open at even a lower temperature, but a guess, they don't specify this.

    Removing the entire bumper to drain some of the coolant? Have you ever heard of siphoning out?
    tdc likes this.

  12. #10
    Off-Road Champion boraz's Avatar
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    pro tip

    make the words "remove my bumper" a hyperlink
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    1998 XJ 3" 31" Hakka LT 350,000 km
    1998 XJ 3" 31" Hakka LT 320,000 km

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