How-To: GM 1.4L LUV/LUJ PCV Fix Kit V1 Install
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Thread: How-To: GM 1.4L LUV/LUJ PCV Fix Kit V1 Install

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    How-To: GM 1.4L LUV/LUJ PCV Fix Kit V1 Install

    How-To: GM 1.4L LUV/LUJ PCV Fix Kit V1 Install

    Overview:
    For details and ordering information on the PCV Fix kits, go to: https://www.cruzetalk.com/forum/34-g...-fix-kits.html

    This thread provides instructions for installing the V1 PCV Fix Kit for the 2011-2016 Limited Chevy Cruze, as well as the Chevy Sonic/Trax and the Buick Encore. .


    Tools Required
    - A step bit that can drill down to 9/16" (Available on Amazon.com) - I got a set of 3 at Menard's for $12
    - A cordless drill
    - 2 adjustable wrenches
    - Pipe thread sealant (teflon tape would also work)
    - A file
    - An Allen wrench set
    - A #2 phillips screwdriver witha 6"+ shaft, or a screwdriver with interchangeable bits and an extension that can get you the same length (this will be needed to install the plug)
    - A GOOD, strong degreaser that leaves no residue. Brake clean may work.
    - A plastic brush (an old toothbrush will work)
    - A hole punch
    - A hammer
    - A flathead screwdriver or comparable tool to mix and apply epoxy
    - A paper towel to wipe the epoxy off the applicator tool
    - In-lb torque wrench (Available on Amazon.com)
    - 5mm hex bit (if 3/8" drive, you'll also need a 3/8" male to 1/4" female adapter)

    Note: these are only the tools that will be required to install this fix. You will need other tools to get the intake manifold off.


    Parts Required:
    - PCV Fix Kit V1


    Procedure:Note: if you've never worked with NPT fittings before, just remember; you can keep tightening, but you should not back out unless you're disconnecting and re-connecting (with new thread sealer). Also note: don't be afraid to use a lot of sealant tape. You should be making at least 5 laps around the threads with the tape.

    1. Remove intake manifold from vehicle, and remove throttle body from manifold. Tutorial for removing the intake manifold can be found here: https://www.cruzetalk.com/forum/129-...-manifold.html

    2. Using degreaser and a toothbrush, thoroughly clean and de-grease the original check valve openings, surrounding area, and a few inches into the bottom of the PCV port (the flat area). The original PCV opening must be free from any contaminants and must be bone dry in order for the epoxy to adhere permanently. If using a strong solvent like brake clean, I'd recommend removing the gasket surrounding the ports first. Make sure the PCV port is dry before proceeding.




    3a. Below is where you will be installing the screw and washer. The idea is that if your check valve is missing that hole needs to be plugged up as it's creating a boost leak. First, drive the screw half way into the center hole for the check valve dry (without any epoxy) to start the thread, then back out.



    3b. Place the washer over the screw, and liberally coat the screw thread with epoxy. The more you can pile on there, the better. Have at least as much as shown below, more if possible.



    3c. Next, carefully, being sure not to touch the walls, drive the screw back into the hole all the way to the end. Once the screw starts drilling itself in, it will start to go in straight. IMPORTANT NOTE: don't over-tighten the screw. Screw it in till it hits the end, then lightly tighten until it's snug. If you over-tighten, the screw will strip the plastic. Screw it in till it hits the end, then lightly tighten until it's snug. If you over-tighten, the screw will strip the plastic. This is just to hold the washer in place, the epoxy will do the sealing and holding.

    3d. At this point, the epoxy should have bonded to the screw, the washer, the surface of the port, and should have been pressed through the outer holes on the port to produce an excellent bond. However, if you want to use up the remaining epoxy on your mix surface, feel free to load it up around the screw wherever you feel like it for good measure. Once that stuff cures, it's never coming off. Note: do not block off the port coming up out of the manifold that the corrugated hose connects to!



    4. Be sure to wipe off the screwdriver you're using after every single application. That stuff dries fast and you'll be scraping it off later. Full cure takes 24 hours but if you start with this part first, you'll be fine getting the intake manifold back together and starting the car, since it will be dry to the touch within an hour. No need to wait overnight before you start up the car.

    5. Flip the intake manifold upside down and place a washer centered on the flat side. Make sure it is centered horizontally. I'd recommend starting 1/4" or so further back than I did in this picture to give yourself some flexibility in case the hole gets too close while you're drilling. Use a hole punch and hammer to make an indentation where the thread will be starting. Note: as of January 2019, I've been shipping kits out with a larger flat washer for the outside; make sure you drill the hole a tad further back than needed to ensure the washer lays flat on the runner.



    6. Using a step bit, slowly and carefully drill down to 9/16", being sure to keep it centered. If you have trouble getting it centered, you can try drilling a small 1/8" pilot hole with another drill bit first. Note that the hole on mine ended up a little too close to the opening. This is why I recommended you start further back to give you some flexibility in case this happens.




    7. Using a file, file down two opposing edges of one washer until it slides through the PCV port opening. Do the same for two opposing edges of the locknut. This won't take much filing.



    8. Fit another un-modified washer over the NTP adapter, and fit the adapter trough the hole. Fit the nitrile gasket over the threads, followed by the washer you filed down.



    9. Slide the locknut through onto the top of the thread, and begin tightening the adapter against the thread. It may help to fit the barbed elbow onto the adapter for this part to get more leverage as shown below.



    10. Remove the 90 degree barbed fitting, install some thread sealer, and tighten it against the adapter using the two wrenches while also positioning the barb to point toward the throttle body. Note: if you run out of space to turn, DO NOT OVER-TIGHTEN THE ADAPTER. The plastic on the manifold is pretty thick but it can still crack if you get crazy. You can tell if you're going too far when the rubber seal starts to press outward. Back out the adapter, remove the locknut, turn it clockwise one step, and put it back in. This will give you another 60 degrees before it gets too tight again, which should be plenty. At this point, the first washer you slid onto the adapter may start flaring upward. That's OK, its primary purpose was to distribute the force of the adapter against the plastic on the intake manifold so it doesn't crack; it is the nitrile seal on the inside that will keep this from producing any leaks.



    Note: If someone else comes across a 1/4 NTP male to 1/4 NTP female adapter that has a wider top section, let me know and I can exchange that part for this one.

    11. The BNR throttle body adapter came with two plugs. Install one of the plugs using your allen wrench set in the hole closer to the intake runners (see below where I forgot to put the plug in).

    12. This part is pretty simple. Using thread sealant, start with the reducer elbow and tighten all of the remaining fittings in the following order. You may need some extra thread sealer on the elbow going into the intake if it's getting too close. Once the fittings are tightened, apply some thread sealer to the reducer elbow and tighten it against the throttle body spacer. Fit the spacer onto the intake manifold to make final adjustments regarding the angle. Don't over-tighten this as you may crack the throttle body spacer. It just needs to be snug; the thread sealer will do all the work. Make sure the check valve is pointing in the correct direction; it should be pointing toward the throttle body spacer. Remember, when making adjustments, you can tighten, but don't back out. Once you have it set, hold the fuel hose up to both bases of the barbed fittings, cut/trim it to the the appropriate length, and slide it through. This will not be under any significant pressure, so you don't need clamps. In fact, it's better not to have them so you can just pull the hose off if you ever want to clean/inspect the check valve. The following is what I believe to be an ideal alignment for the check valve, with a slight arc in the oil hose. Note: I used the wrong hole on the TB spacer for the first few pictures here. You actually want to use the hole closer to the PCV port so the check valve would clear.





    Once you're done, here is what your finished product should look like.





    13. Reinstall the throttle body on top of the throttle body spacer (the spacer must be first touching the intake manifold), and tighten using 5mm hex bit to 71 in-lb.

    Last edited by XtremeRevolution; 01-06-2019 at 11:58 AM.
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  3. #2
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    For the V1 Fix Kit, I've decided to provide an parts list in case you want to order the parts yourself. It is cheaper to order my kit since I get the parts in bulk, but here it is in case anyone needs it.

    Itemized Parts List 1 (check valve)
    This is the section most of you want to see, so here it goes. I will provide a brief description of each part listed. Note, you may be able to source these parts elsewhere. I initially searched for them on Amazon, but could not find all of the parts I needed and went to Grainger for the remainder of the parts required. Let me know if any of these links are dead or if the parts become unavailable. Everything works as of January 2017.

    I've noticed a few people have tried to perform this fix themselves and have ended up deviating from the original plan in some way. I want to make clear that every component in this design has a specific purpose, and in very few cases can a component be swapped out for another one. Many hours went into the design and planning of this project to ensure it would be durable and last for the remainder of the vehicle's life. If you decide to attempt this yourself, please take note of the comments I left under each component; nothing here was done by accident.

    Bad News Racing Throttle Body Spacer: This is the only leak-free, clean solution that I've come up with that is able to flow enough air while preventing any leaks. There is no other place in the intake manifold to tap into the return line reliably and easily. This component is critical to the design of this solution. I recommend this over the DDM throttle body spacer, as the DDM spacer requires an additional adapter and may require a bracket on the engine to be filed down in order to avoid rubbing.
    BNR Throttle Body Spacer - LUV/LUJ 1.4T

    NOTE: If you already have the DDM throttle body spacer and want to use that, you'll need this additional fitting in order to make it work (you don't need this for the BNR throttle body spacer): https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...1267c7ef7a6345

    1/4 NPT locknut: A regular nut will not do; these nuts are specifically designed to thread onto NPT pipe fittings. These are almost impossible to find locally. The nut MUST be 7/8" in outer diameter or it will not fit!!!
    https://www.grainger.com/product/PAR...Code=P2IDP2PCP

    Sealing Washer: Unfortunately, these only come in packs of 5. If you decide to source this locally, pay very close attention to the inner and outer diameter. This is a nitrile rubber washer, which is fuel-safe and oil resistant.
    https://www.grainger.com/product/GRA...OVED-%20-4PAH7

    Stainless Steel Washers (you need two): You will have a hard time sourcing these locally. I went stainless for corrosion resistance. The outer diameter here was critical, as was the thickness. These are THIN stainless washers. Anything thicker will not allow enough thread for the NPT locknut to fit onto the NPT adapter.
    https://www.grainger.com/product/GRA...OVED-%20-2DNP6

    1/4 NPT adapter: This is what you'll be fitting into the intake manifold. You can deviate slightly from this design if you want to, but there are not many options out there for 1/4 MNTP to 1/4 FNTP adapters.
    https://www.grainger.com/product/GRA...Reducer-46M455

    1/4 NPT elbow to 1/4 barb: This will be fitting into the NPT adapter. Note: In some kits, I shipped a 1/4 MNTP to FNTP elbow and a 1/4 NTP to 1/4 barbed fitting due to availability. Whatever provides you a 90 degree bend and goes from 1/4 FNTP to 1/4 barb will work.
    https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...24bea3ab8e0e74

    1/4" ID oil Hose: You'll only need about 5-8" of it and should be able to find it locally. This will plug into both the above elbow and the below NPT barb. Make sure you are using rigid oil and fuel rated hose!!! We already had a member try something different and his hose collapsed on him.
    https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...02ee1142580266

    Barb to 1/4 NPT: This will connect into the fuel hose.
    https://www.grainger.com/product/GRAINGER-APPROVED-Brass-Hose-Barb-with-Straight-6AFP0

    Bonomi Check Valve: This will connect into the 1/4 NPT barbed fitting above. It took me a long time to find a check valve that would work for this solution, and you aren't going to find a cheaper one. The critical factor here was the break pressure. We needed a break pressure of less than 1 PSI to make this system effective, and this has a break pressure of 1/2 PSI and holding pressure of 400 psi. This uses a conical plunger and is very well built. It will withstand a great deal of PCV particle build-up before needing replacement as a result of its size and design. All parts are fuel-safe and oil resistant. Note:Linked below is the lead-free version. The standard version (100002-1/4) is what I'm currently shipping with the kits, but you most likely won't find the other parts you need, so the standard version ends up being more expensive due to shipping. I strongly recommend that you DO NOT use a different check valve.
    https://www.grainger.com/product//BO...4-VALVE-45RF27

    Nipple: This connects into the above check valve.
    https://www.grainger.com/product//PA...-Nipple-13Y796

    1/4 NPT to 1/8 NPT reducer: This connects into the nipple on the 1/4 NPT end, and into the BNR throttle body spacer on the 1/8 NPT end.
    https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...6d2c7afe62715d


    Itemized Parts List 2 (PCV port plug)
    All of these parts should be available at your local hardware store.
    #10 self-drilling screw, 3/4" long (1" would work as well)
    7/16" OD nylon/plastic washer - 3/8" OD should also work if you cannot find 7/16".
    Loctite plastic bonder epoxy (Available on amazon.com). Since the intake manifold is plastic, I strongly recommend using plastic bonder epoxy for the most secure adhesion.


    Last edited by XtremeRevolution; 12-26-2018 at 11:30 AM.
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  4. #3
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    XR,

    I am in the process of installing my DDM throttle body spacer for my boost gauge and figured I might as well set it up so in the future I can more readily install this fix for the PCV valve.

    As I have yet to take off my intake, I am not able to fully visualize this process, hence a couple of questions for clarification.

    Quote Originally Posted by XtremeRevolution View Post





    3a. First, drive the screw half way into the center hole for the check valve dry to start the thread, then back out.

    3b. Place the washer over the screw, and liberally coat the screw thread with epoxy.



    3c. Using a flathead screwdriver, liberally apply some epoxy to the check valve hole, entering from the top port.

    3d. Next, carefully, being sure not to touch the walls, drive the screw back into the hole all the way to the end. Once the screw starts drilling itself in, it will start to go in straight. IMPORTANT NOTE: don't over-tighten the screw. Screw it in till it hits the end, then lightly tighten until it's snug. If you over-tighten, the screw will strip the plastic.

    3e. At this point, the epoxy should have bonded to the screw, the washer, the surface of the port, and should have been pressed through the outer holes on the port to produce an excellent bond. However, if you want to use up the remaining epoxy on your mix surface, feel free to load it up around the screw wherever you feel like it for good measure. Once that stuff cures, it's never coming off. Note: do not block off the port coming up out of the manifold that the corrugated hose connects to!

    Screw.png

    4. Be sure to wipe off the screwdriver you're using after every single application. That stuff dries fast and you'll be scraping it off later. Full cure takes 24 hours but if you start with this part first, you'll be fine getting the intake manifold back together and starting the car, since it will be dry to the touch within an hour. No need to wait overnight before you start up the car.
    I added the circle on your pic to help me ask the question - is this the screw end and if so where is it located on the outside of the manifold?

    Quote Originally Posted by XtremeRevolution View Post

    Bad News Racing Throttle Body Spacer: This is the only leak-free, clean solution that I've come up with that is able to flow enough air while preventing any leaks. There is no other place in the intake manifold to tap into the return line reliably and easily. This component is critical to the design of this solution. I recommend this over the DDM throttle body spacer, as the DDM spacer requires an additional adapter and may require a bracket on the engine to be filed down in order to avoid rubbing.
    BNR Throttle Body Spacer - LUV/LUJ 1.4T

    NOTE: If you already have the DDM throttle body spacer and want to use that, you'll need this additional fitting in order to make it work (you don't need this for the BNR throttle body spacer): https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...1267c7ef7a6345
    I had already purchased mine prior to seeing your recommendation.

    It seems as if I need to install it with the openings down to make it work with your kit, is it?

    I also needed to know if it makes a difference in which hole I use for the gauge? I see you have changed positions in your photos so I am assuming the one away from the engine when pointed down.
    Last edited by Blasirl; 05-30-2018 at 12:39 PM. Reason: clarified question
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    Blasirl,
    In the picture you see the top of the screw inside to the manifold gallery. See my attached picture. I used a different Loctite. Technically you can close the "hole" with Loctite only, the screw is to hold that Loctite in place and vice-versa, to hold the screw to unscrew
    Regardless what you will use, first of all clean up the gallery very well. I used detergent then alcohol with a long brush. It won' matter what port you close but it's easier to use the one closer to the manifold and close the other one.
    Attached Images Attached Images
    Last edited by CRUISE-CRUZE; 06-11-2018 at 07:54 PM.

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    I couldn’t get the intake manifold off.it is extremely difficult to work underneath the manifold getting the vacuum hose off and the little clip to go back on took 30 minutes.really frustrating

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    I didn't even see these replies until now.

    Quote Originally Posted by Blasirl View Post
    XR,

    I am in the process of installing my DDM throttle body spacer for my boost gauge and figured I might as well set it up so in the future I can more readily install this fix for the PCV valve.

    As I have yet to take off my intake, I am not able to fully visualize this process, hence a couple of questions for clarification.



    I added the circle on your pic to help me ask the question - is this the screw end and if so where is it located on the outside of the manifold?



    I had already purchased mine prior to seeing your recommendation.

    It seems as if I need to install it with the openings down to make it work with your kit, is it?

    I also needed to know if it makes a difference in which hole I use for the gauge? I see you have changed positions in your photos so I am assuming the one away from the engine when pointed down.
    That is the screw end, and it is not located on the outside of the manifold. You have to take the manifold off and look inside the intake runner. It is easier to understand if you watch the video I posted on the PCV system:

    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=En4WO7DYsTk&t=

    Doesn't make a difference which hole you use, just need to make sure that there is enough clearance around everything.

    Quote Originally Posted by Tmiller39 View Post
    I couldn’t get the intake manifold off.it is extremely difficult to work underneath the manifold getting the vacuum hose off and the little clip to go back on took 30 minutes.really frustrating
    The vacuum hose can be removed with long needle nose pliers. It isn't too bad getting it off and back on. The clip on the other hand, you have to pay attention to the way it came off so you know how to get it back on. The easiest way is to put the electrical connector back on, then snap the clip over it from the side.
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    For anyone doing this project the screw with the silicon you install it going through the intake manifold you do not screw it from the outside like I did because I couldn’t get an answer from anyone just wanted to give a heads up.so look inside where the orange nipple is supposed to be and that is where the screw goes.

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    Revisited my intake today, since I was getting some oil on backside and throttle body, dripping on my trans and then the driveway.

    I had about 3oz of oil in my intake, and the silicon i used on the screw to seal the hole for the missing checkvalve was gone. Either i did not clean the plastic well enough, or the silicon wasn't resistant.

    I drained the oil, cleaned it again, REALLY cleaned it again, and got some oil safe epoxy.

    I re-examined the checkvalve and after a year, it still was breaking with a tiny bit of pressure and re-sealing. no oil was in the tube or check valve.

    After a tank or two of fuel, i'll re-report.

    Thank you again, Xtreme

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    My 2015 sonic done. Great kit. I do recommend replacing the fuel injector o rings. Photos below. You can clearly see the check valve inside the intake runner has disappeared. If you install the kit with the BNR spacer you need to use the port closest to the intake due to check valve body clearance. See photo. Great kit!
    Attached Images Attached Images
    Last edited by 6speedTi; 11-23-2018 at 06:03 PM.
    XtremeRevolution likes this.

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    Quote Originally Posted by 6speedTi View Post
    My 2015 sonic done. Great kit. I do recommend replacing the fuel injector o rings. Photos below. You can clearly see the check valve inside the intake runner has disappeared. If you install the kit with the BNR spacer you need to use the port closest to the intake due to check valve body clearance. See photo. Great kit!
    Good work, you really don't need the hose clamps there. The most pressure that hose will ever be under is 1/2 a PSI unless something else is broken, so I chose not to include hose clamps in the V1 kit. It doesn't hurt to have them, just not necessary.

    Looks good though! Thanks for the feedback!
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