HowTo: Gen II (2017) Dash Cam w/fuse tap install - Page 2
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Thread: HowTo: Gen II (2017) Dash Cam w/fuse tap install

  1. #11
    mumbogray is offline [OP]
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ma v e n View Post
    Making sure the addafuse is oriented properly is necessary to make sure it "works" properly. If you have it backwards and there's an issue, the smaller amperage fuse will blow, no mater which slot it is in.

    The 7.5A F19 dash fuse is constant B+. It's powered by the 100amp fused output of position #2 at the battery power distribution block in the trunk.

    The voltage present at the Fuse is potentially just dropping below your 12.4V cutoff. You'll find out when you get your meter.
    I routinely see B+ drop below 12.4 when measured in the car during key off diagnostic procedures. I typically don't bother putting a power supply on it til it's around 11.8v, the difference is I'm in a repair bay with a power supply available. You'll need to take some measurements and do some experiments to determine the cutoff you feel comfortable with based on your exact situation
    Thanks for the reply, you were correct the battery voltage is just lower than I was expecting at idle. I set my cutoff at 11.8v and it lasted a few hours. With what you are saying about B+ normally dropping below 12.4V, does the actual battery drop below 12.4v as well? Or will a multimeter on the battery read 12.4v, but B+ might read 12v, causing a premature shutoff in the Vico?

    If the full battery voltage is not making its way to F19, I would keep my cutoff point low at 11.8v to compensate, unless this is asking for problems.

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  3. #12
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    The voltage available to F19 with engine off is going to vary vehicle to vehicle, day to day and change over time.

    Vtage dropped by the circuit is dependent on battery starting voltage, vehicle temperature and resistance in the circuit.

  4. #13
    mumbogray is offline [OP]
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    Cruze Gen 2 Dash Cam Install with Park Mode

    OK I couldn't figure out if I could edit the OP, so hopefully if anyone needs some info on Gen II they will find it here.


    I did not route wires under the dash or along the windshield. Instead this install is pretty clean, with most wires and parts stored inside the Fuse Box compartment, going directly to my cam on the dash. It's very easy to remove the whole install, Loosen one 10mm bolt to release ground, and the whole assembly comes right out.

    Parts list:

    • Vantage N2 Pro Front and Cabin Dash Cam
    • VicoVation Vico-Power Plus Battery Discharge Prevention
    • 3M suction cup Dash mount
    • Mini Fuse Add-a-circuit taps
    • Extra 7.5A and 5A fuse
    • JOTO 3M Cable clips
    • 10mm screw


    IMPORTANT: The fuse layout seems different for 2016.5 vs 2017+. However the 2017 does not have the updated fuse layout in the manual. And the layout on the back of the fuse panel cover is incorrect as well. There is a SB: https://gm.oemdtc.com/7022/16-na-275...hevrolet-cruze. Refer to this for 2017, but it does seem to be the same layout as in the 2018's manual. That being said, if you mirror this install, make sure to confirm specifics for your car, as they could be different than mine. I take no responsibility if you mirror this install and mess up your car, although that probably wont happen.


    I went with the VicoVation power monitor after learning of its numerous voltage cutoffs for parking mode. They allow setting in .2 intervals between 11.6-12.6. It also has a voltage offset setting. To prevent deep cycling, it is recommended to have a voltage offset 12.4, although it can vary. The Vicovation ran 8+ hours at 12v cutoff. This link is great info: https://dashcamtalk.com/battery-discharge-prevention/. At the moment my battery is sitting below that 12.4v cutoff. Likely from the cold and constantly running my car/camera while testing. It is also a 2yo preowned car that spent some time on the lot, so if its on the way out I will reassess. For now I will get a trickle charger. I only need Park mode at work, and can occasionally top up the battery overnight.

    As far as measuring the battery voltage, when the setup was all said and done, I used a multimeter to check a few spots. The voltage is low as I had just turned my car on/off. But I was checking if the voltage representation at the Vicovation was accurately representing the voltage at the battery. It did indeed, granted i used the relay under the hood, not the actual battery in the trunk.
    IMG_20190216_162227.jpgIMG_20190216_162834.jpgIMG_20190216_162318.jpgAttachment 269429


    I ended up tapping into F29 and F19 for Switch and Constant power respectively. These are Rear USB charger, and Datalink ODB connector. These required a 5A and 7.5A fuse, again respectively. These are not crucial fuses, and the VicoVation manual recommends fuses 10A and below.
    IMG_20190210_164129.jpgIMG_20190210_170131.jpg

    Next, found this useful pic online from a useful guide
    2upahs7.jpg
    I did have this reversed in earlier pics in the thread. Fixed in the following 2 pics:
    IMG_20190216_163548.jpgAttachment 269435


    Grounding was a b****, my wrench just barely could get to the nut. It is down towards the bottom right side. It requires a 10mm socket. You can also see in the above pic when I test voltage, that this metal bolt/plate does provide ground to complete the circuit.
    IMG_20190210_170802.jpgIMG_20190210_172203.jpgIMG_20190210_170859.jpg

    And the Vico was all set. Just had to get the wiring stored away nicely. I used zip ties and electrical tape to keep the wires together, but I did not really secure anything to the body. It is a tight fit, not enough space for things to knock around or move. (the background fuse connections in these pic are reversed. Please see above pic for correct orientation).
    IMG_20190210_171435.jpg IMG_20190210_172737.jpgIMG_20190210_175153.jpg

    With everything all tucked away, I slipped the camera power wire and Vico through the open slot on the fuse box panel. The vico fortunately fits through this slot.
    IMG_20190210_175541.jpgIMG_20190210_182252.jpg

    And then 3M to tidy it up
    IMG_20190211_161415.jpgIMG_20190211_161430.jpgIMG_20190211_161324.jpg

    Pretty happy with how it came out! I still need to mess with my settings a little to get it running 6+ hours while I am at work, without killing the battery. I park in a lot with large traffic volume, and I want to be able to keep an eye on my car in case I notice any new dings. The camera is easily visible, so theft is a concern. It's not a huge presence in my area, but due to volume, its possible. Currently the onstar trial will call my phone if my alarm goes off, which is cool! It would take me 30 seconds to run outside and catch them in the act. I'm thinking about subscribing for this feature.

    Thank you @Ma v e n, @LiveTrash, and @Blasirl for all the help!!!

    Sorry for the rotated images, they looked normal on my PC.
    Last edited by mumbogray; 02-16-2019 at 07:53 PM.
    Blasirl and LiveTrash like this.

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  6. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by mumbogray View Post
    OK I couldn't figure out if I could edit the OP, so hopefully if anyone needs some info on Gen II they will find it here.


    I did not route wires under the dash or along the windshield. Instead this install is pretty clean, with most wires and parts stored inside the Fuse Box compartment, going directly to my cam on the dash. It's very easy to remove the whole install, Loosen one 10mm bolt to release ground, and the whole assembly comes right out.

    Parts list:

    • Vantage N2 Pro Front and Cabin Dash Cam
    • VicoVation Vico-Power Plus Battery Discharge Prevention
    • 3M suction cup Dash mount
    • Mini Fuse Add-a-circuit taps
    • Extra 7.5A and 5A fuse
    • JOTO 3M Cable clips
    • 10mm screw


    IMPORTANT: The fuse layout seems different for 2016.5 vs 2017+. However the 2017 does not have the updated fuse layout in the manual. And the layout on the back of the fuse panel cover is incorrect as well. There is a SB: https://gm.oemdtc.com/7022/16-na-275...hevrolet-cruze. Refer to this for 2017, but it does seem to be the same layout as in the 2018's manual. That being said, if you mirror this install, make sure to confirm specifics for your car, as they could be different than mine. I take no responsibility if you mirror this install and mess up your car, although that probably wont happen.


    I went with the VicoVation power monitor after learning of its numerous voltage cutoffs for parking mode. They allow setting in .2 intervals between 11.6-12.6. It also has a voltage offset setting. To prevent deep cycling, it is recommended to have a voltage offset 12.4, although it can vary. The Vicovation ran 8+ hours at 12v cutoff. This link is great info: https://dashcamtalk.com/battery-discharge-prevention/. At the moment my battery is sitting below that 12.4v cutoff. Likely from the cold and constantly running my car/camera while testing. It is also a 2yo preowned car that spent some time on the lot, so if its on the way out I will reassess. For now I will get a trickle charger. I only need Park mode at work, and can occasionally top up the battery overnight.

    As far as measuring the battery voltage, when the setup was all said and done, I used a multimeter to check a few spots. The voltage is low as I had just turned my car on/off. But I was checking if the voltage representation at the Vicovation was accurately representing the voltage at the battery. It did indeed, granted i used the relay under the hood, not the actual battery in the trunk.



    I ended up tapping into F29 and F19 for Switch and Constant power respectively. These are Rear USB charger, and Datalink ODB connector. These required a 5A and 7.5A fuse, again respectively. These are not crucial fuses, and the VicoVation manual recommends fuses 10A and below.
    Next, found this useful pic online from a useful guide

    I did have this reversed in earlier pics in the thread. Fixed in the following 2 pics:



    Grounding was a b****, my wrench just barely could get to the nut. It is down towards the bottom right side. It requires a 10mm socket. You can also see in the above pic when I test voltage, that this metal bolt/plate does provide ground to complete the circuit.


    And the Vico was all set. Just had to get the wiring stored away nicely. I used zip ties and electrical tape to keep the wires together, but I did not really secure anything to the body. It is a tight fit, not enough space for things to knock around or move. (the background fuse connections in these pic are reversed. Please see above pic for correct orientation).


    With everything all tucked away, I slipped the camera power wire and Vico through the open slot on the fuse box panel. The vico fortunately fits through this slot.


    And then 3M to tidy it up


    Pretty happy with how it came out! I still need to mess with my settings a little to get it running 6+ hours while I am at work, without killing the battery. I park in a lot with large traffic volume, and I want to be able to keep an eye on my car in case I notice any new dings. The camera is easily visible, so theft is a concern. It's not a huge presence in my area, but due to volume, its possible. Currently the onstar trial will call my phone if my alarm goes off, which is cool! It would take me 30 seconds to run outside and catch them in the act. I'm thinking about subscribing for this feature.

    Thank you @Ma v e n, @LiveTrash, and @Blasirl for all the help!!!

    Sorry for the rotated images, they looked normal on my PC.
    If it is OK with you I would like to change the title to "HowTo: Gen II (2017) Dash Cam w/fuse tap install" and then move it to the Gen II tutorial thread.
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  7. #15
    mumbogray is offline [OP]
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    Quote Originally Posted by Blasirl View Post
    If it is OK with you I would like to change the title to "HowTo: Gen II (2017) Dash Cam w/fuse tap install" and then move it to the Gen II tutorial thread.
    Absolutely! Thank you

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