Oil cooler leak - Page 3
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Thread: Oil cooler leak

  1. #21
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    I probably should have replaced the oil return for the turbo as well for another $20. Might still do it. Are you aware of how much oil loss there is in replacing that part as I just did an oil change?

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  3. #22
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    Quote Originally Posted by Rapp View Post
    You all are getting way above my pay grade with fabricating your own parts :-o
    Hehe.. actually my Cruze has two self machined parts so far..

  4. #23
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    Quote Originally Posted by Rapp View Post
    I probably should have replaced the oil return for the turbo as well for another $20. Might still do it. Are you aware of how much oil loss there is in replacing that part as I just did an oil change?
    I can only guess you'll only lose what is in the turbo housing itself. Not much at all I would assume.

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  6. #24
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    Hi All,

    Do all of you remove exhaust intake and turbo for this job? I looked up this job in shop manual and it shows that only catalytic converter needs to be removed. Of course removing turbo would give you more room but is it neccessary? Removing turbo+intake requires new gaskets, bolts … and possibly of breaking plastic oil lines etc.

    Did any of you did this job by just removing catalytic converter as per shop manual?

    Thanks!

  7. #25
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    Haven't replaced myself. But, if you're under powertrain warranty still, the line is covered.

    Quote Originally Posted by OEMplusCC View Post
    Hi All,

    Do all of you remove exhaust intake and turbo for this job? I looked up this job in shop manual and it shows that only catalytic converter needs to be removed. Of course removing turbo would give you more room but is it neccessary? Removing turbo+intake requires new gaskets, bolts … and possibly of breaking plastic oil lines etc.

    Did any of you did this job by just removing catalytic converter as per shop manual?

    Thanks!

  8. #26
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    Quote Originally Posted by OEMplusCC View Post
    Hi All,

    Do all of you remove exhaust intake and turbo for this job? I looked up this job in shop manual and it shows that only catalytic converter needs to be removed. Of course removing turbo would give you more room but is it neccessary? Removing turbo+intake requires new gaskets, bolts … and possibly of breaking plastic oil lines etc.

    Did any of you did this job by just removing catalytic converter as per shop manual?

    Thanks!
    I just finished this job , and the shop manual is correct. You do not have to remove the turbo/exhaust manifold. However, I chose to since it is a lot easier and you can access everything from the top instead of the bottom. I also replaced a lot of other gaskets while I was in there like oil pan, o-rings, etc.

    If you choose to remove the turbo, get a spare oil drain tube on hand. They are plastic, get incredibly brittle with age, and take almost zero flexing before they crack.
    Last edited by MyShibbyEco; 12-17-2018 at 06:35 PM.
    2012 Cruze Eco MT

  9. #27
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    Quote Originally Posted by lonewolf04 View Post
    Haven't replaced myself. But, if you're under powertrain warranty still, the line is covered.
    Unfortunately my powertrian warranty expired this year so I will be doing it myself. My oil pan seal was leaking beginning this year and GM covered it.

    Quote Originally Posted by MyShibbyEco View Post
    I just finished this job , and the shop manual is correct. You do not have to remove the turbo/exhaust manifold. However, I chose to since it is a lot easier and you can access everything from the top instead of the bottom. I also replaced a lot of other gaskets while I was in there like oil pan, o-rings, etc.

    If you choose to remove the turbo, get a spare oil drain tube on hand. They are plastic, get incredibly brittle with age, and take almost zero flexing before they crack.
    Thanks for the response, I think I'll just try doing it with the turbo on. If it becomes impossible then Ill order rest of the parts and remove it.
    One more question since you just did it.
    How do you remove the pipe that attaches to the left of the oil cooler. To be clear, the pipe that attaches to the left to that "ribbed box" aka heat ex-changer.
    Here is a picture from internet for illustration (notice the shiny inlet on the left)


    Do you pull/push the pipe? Or do you twist it somehow? Or is there some security tab? Shop manual has no detail on that.

    Thanks!
    Last edited by OEMplusCC; 12-17-2018 at 10:01 PM.

  10. #28
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    Quote Originally Posted by OEMplusCC View Post
    Thanks for the response, I think I'll just try doing it with the turbo on. If it becomes impossible then Ill order rest of the parts and remove it.
    One more question since you just did it.
    How do you remove the pipe that attaches to the left of the oil cooler. To be clear, the pipe that attaches to the left to that "ribbed box" aka heat ex-changer.
    Here is a picture from internet for illustration (notice the shiny inlet on the left)

    <img>

    Do you pull/push the pipe? Or do you twist it somehow? Or is there some security tab? Shop manual has no detail on that.

    Thanks!
    It's an o-ring pushed straight into the opening. You'll remove the rubber end clamped on the left side of the pipe, and the one bolt in the middle holding it down, then pull straight out. The oil cooler housing also has an o-ring insert going into the engine block so you'll pull the cooler slightly out and up. Be gentle on the turbo coolant pipe that crosses in front of the cooler (it has a bolt holding it to the cooler). Do not try to bend it out of the way or it will start leaking at the quick connect at the turbo side.

    If you decide to remove the turbo, order new turbo coolant pipes and quick fittings as well. The quick fittings have terrible seals on the inside and any slight side-to-side movement will permanently ruin it. They're expensive for what they are, but you may get things back together just to find one or both of those leaking (speaking from experience).

    It also helps to apply some plumbing silicone grease to the o-rings when installing everything. Makes the o-rings slide together and prevents binding.
    2012 Cruze Eco MT

  11. #29
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    Following this thread for OEMPlus if you do it without ending up pulling the turbo, please let us know and any tips we should try. Based on what I researched when reading alldata the engine thing might slide out towards the drivers side once everything is loose.

    Disconnecting the hose at the thermostat with remote access hose clamp pliers, and bolts under neigh. I'm smelling burning oil, I have a feeling the intake manifold PCV job and this oil cooler job might be on my task list come spring if I have plans on long term keeping the car.
    2012 Cruze LT, 1.4L, AT 78,000 Miles as of 1/19
    Looking for EV for next car.. Bolt or maybe Model 3 if Chevy doesn't speed up their EV's to the marketplace!

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  12. #30
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    Quote Originally Posted by OEMplusCC View Post
    Unfortunately my powertrian warranty expired this year so I will be doing it myself. My oil pan seal was leaking beginning this year and GM covered it.



    Thanks for the response, I think I'll just try doing it with the turbo on. If it becomes impossible then Ill order rest of the parts and remove it.
    One more question since you just did it.
    How do you remove the pipe that attaches to the left of the oil cooler. To be clear, the pipe that attaches to the left to that "ribbed box" aka heat ex-changer.
    Here is a picture from internet for illustration (notice the shiny inlet on the left)


    Do you pull/push the pipe? Or do you twist it somehow? Or is there some security tab? Shop manual has no detail on that.

    Thanks!

    So... how did it go without removing everything?

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