1.4 ECO - Thermostat Swap - 221°F to 176°F! - Page 2
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Thread: 1.4 ECO - Thermostat Swap - 221°F to 176°F!

  1. #11
    2nd Gear CRUISE-CRUZE's Avatar
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    Conclusion!

    Let me share with you the observations after I did this Thermostat Swap to 4 cars, all have at least 5K since the change:

    • During cold weather the coolant stays most of the time around 184F ±2F. Some exceptions if you are stuck in traffic when the coolant’s temperature goes higher since the “smart” ECM won’t start the fan so early.
    • When is hot outside, over 100F, the thermostat works great, your coolant stays again around 184F most of the time! It is even better than in the cold weather because this time you are using AC and the radiator’s fan works very often, getting down the temperature. No issue if you are stuck in traffic, I never got the temperature over 190-192F and that only for a few seconds!

    All 4 cars I changed behaved in similar way, I only had same issue with one in particular, until I did a better air flush to the coolant.
    To summarize: I got the engine working temperature down from 221++F to ~184F, in order to avoid continuous overheating issue (the gauge is useless, it goes max to 185F, so you can boil the coolant without even know!). I didn’t see any MPG major fluctuation after the change. I never had issues with car warming up during the cold weather, nor overheating during the hot days and rush hours. I’m not going to argue about better engine performance at higher temperature, but this is not a racing car!

    Ideally.... ideally I'll do the swap to a thermostat that would open at 195F-200F but the only one that fits and I could find is the one I mentioned into the original post. I didn't want to change the housing, add adapters, etc. If somebody can find a better thermostat, let us know!

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  3. #12
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    A friend had a Mini (original1966) and had 2 temperature gauges fitted. One for water and the other for oil. The water ran at 180F and the oil went to 250F, even though he had an oil cooler. I know the diff and transmission are in the sump, but the oil still runs hotter than the coolant in most cars that I have owned.
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  4. #13
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    I am really like the idea of a lower temp thermastat. I've always worried more about overheating than condensation in the oil. My old 86' pickup got a 160° F thermastat in it. Now I understand that theses engines are better off closer to 220° and that's fine...givin that the gauge would show it! As y'all have said the gauge goes to a tick below halfway and stops. That is the reason I had to put another engine in my 2011. The fan resistor, on the fan shroud, burn up or messed up from corrosion , causing the fan to only run on "turbo" mode when the a/c high side got to high. Before the engine swap I replaced the head gasket, thinking that was my problem, and when I got it back together I used my ODBll scan tool to monitor the temperature, which goes off the outgoing sensor on the rear of the engine, and saw temps up to 250°f , no fan and the temp gauge on the dash still never got above the tick below halfway. That tells me whoever had the car before me along with myself had been running it hot for a long time and never knew it and cooked the engine. Having an old school thermastat at a slightly lower opening temp would make me feel a lot better.

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  6. #14
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    1st, thank you CRUISE-CRUZE for the research and time it took to find the parts to do this!
    i have done this and am VERY happy with the results. my car is now running at 185° ± 5°. Most of the time i run 180° but when climbing a steep grade on my daily commute the temp does raise to 190°. i have noticed if i let the car sit and idle for an extended period of time (30-40 minutes) the temp will climb to 210°.
    the last few weeks the temp has been in the high 20s to low 30s F i have had no problem with the heat in the vehicle.
    After my commute to work, the coolant temp is always about 180° and i have taken several temp reading of the cams and the temp of the cams was 218°F. i do not have a way to measure the oil temp but an infrared thermometer aimed at the cams under the oil fill cap is good enough for me. this temp of the cams mitigates the thought that the oil will not get hot enough to evaporate moisture.
    my MPG has not changed at all

    i ordered the following from rockauto

    MOTORAD T46 - CAP
    DORMAN 9022080 - Thermostat
    DORMAN 603383 - Coolant recovery tank

    why isnt this a sticky?
    Last edited by yt400pmd; 02-19-2019 at 04:12 PM.
    CruzzieQ likes this.

  7. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by yt400pmd View Post
    1st, thank you CRUISE-CRUZE for the research and time it took to find the parts to do this!
    i have done this and am VERY happy with the results. my car is now running at 185° ± 5°. Most of the time i run 180° but when climbing a steep grade on my daily commute the temp does raise to 190°. i have noticed if i let the car sit and idle for an extended period of time (30-40 minutes) the temp will climb to 210°.
    the last few weeks the temp has been in the high 20s to low 30s F i have had no problem with the heat in the vehicle.
    After my commute to work, the coolant temp is always about 180° and i have taken several temp reading of the cams and the temp of the cams was 218°F. i do not have a way to measure the oil temp but an infrared thermometer aimed at the cams under the oil fill cap is good enough for me. this temp of the cams mitigates the thought that the oil will not get hot enough to evaporate moisture.
    my MPG has not changed at all

    i ordered the following from rockauto

    MOTORAD T46 - CAP
    DORMAN 9022080 - Thermostat
    DORMAN 603383 - Coolant recovery tank

    why isnt this a sticky?
    Thank you for your post! A few other people asked me and it is good to know when somebody else does changes that are working and help us to deal with our issues. I counted 9 cars, including you, that I'm aware about this change (or I did it myself to a few) and have no more issues. Two main things to watch:

    1. The thermostat has 2 version, one version you can't take out the inside component so you need the other one, see it also here:
    https://www.ebay.com/itm/11239454862...8622&ppid=PPX0

    2. Make sure you properly add back the coolant after the replacement and take out the air from the installation when done!

    As a remark, the latest Cruze model (1.4 turbo) is using the OE thermostat that opens at 82 Celsius! You can't use that model, it doesn't match to our 2011 & 2012 models but just for your reference only, the thermostat that opens at 105C "to improve car performances" is for a different application, market, in my opinion.

  8. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by CRUISE-CRUZE View Post
    Let me share with you the observations after I did this Thermostat Swap to 4 cars, all have at least 5K since the change:

    • During cold weather the coolant stays most of the time around 184F ±2F. Some exceptions if you are stuck in traffic when the coolant’s temperature goes higher since the “smart” ECM won’t start the fan so early.
    • When is hot outside, over 100F, the thermostat works great, your coolant stays again around 184F most of the time! It is even better than in the cold weather because this time you are using AC and the radiator’s fan works very often, getting down the temperature. No issue if you are stuck in traffic, I never got the temperature over 190-192F and that only for a few seconds!

    All 4 cars I changed behaved in similar way, I only had same issue with one in particular, until I did a better air flush to the coolant.
    To summarize: I got the engine working temperature down from 221++F to ~184F, in order to avoid continuous overheating issue (the gauge is useless, it goes max to 185F, so you can boil the coolant without even know!). I didn’t see any MPG major fluctuation after the change. I never had issues with car warming up during the cold weather, nor overheating during the hot days and rush hours. I’m not going to argue about better engine performance at higher temperature, but this is not a racing car!

    Ideally.... ideally I'll do the swap to a thermostat that would open at 195F-200F but the only one that fits and I could find is the one I mentioned into the original post. I didn't want to change the housing, add adapters, etc. If somebody can find a better thermostat, let us know!
    Question: What impact has running cooler had on your emissions? Part of the reason the Cruze runs so hot is for emissions purposes - hotter engines tend to burn cleaner.
    CruzzieQ likes this.
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  9. #17
    2nd Gear CRUISE-CRUZE's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by obermd View Post
    Question: What impact has running cooler had on your emissions? Part of the reason the Cruze runs so hot is for emissions purposes - hotter engines tend to burn cleaner.
    First, the facts:
    1. GM is using the same thermostat on an actual engine (Volt)
    2. GM changed the thermostat to the 2019 1.4L turbo to a mechanical one that opens at 82C!
    3. The gauge doesn't go over 185F (85C), telling you that "everything is ok" although many people boiled their coolant without even knowing it!

    You are too aware of emissions!
    The higher coolant temp and higher pressure is also for higher performances, on theory. Since the Cruze is for "general population" the extra cost didn't worth it! Extra "saving" features as the smart grille that shouts down under certain conditions (I monitored that for long time) were obsolete nowadays since the initial advertising worked but otherwise the 0.5 MPG gain is worthless!

    "Electronically controlled thermostat: The coolant thermostat’s operating point is electronically controlled to optimize engine temperatures during different phases of operation to enhance fuel efficiency. The engine control module monitors sensors and controls the thermostat based on mapping that takes into account the wide range of engine operating conditions, including temperature and load." Sounds awesome but in reality it causes more issues than advantages so GM changed to a mechanical thermostat for the 2019 models, even before!



    To summarize it: today GM is using a similar thermostat for 1.4L turbo as I used to replace the original one. No sensor on my car or my modified cars came on (or check engine) to tell me that something doesn't work properly. So... it is your own choice to do the swap or not based on all these information ...
    Last edited by CRUISE-CRUZE; 02-19-2019 at 06:59 PM.

  10. #18
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    The summer here it gets into the high 90s to low 100s. I have always put lower temp thermostats in my vehicles for this reason. Thanks to Cruise Cruze I can now run a cooler thermostat in my Cruze too

    Doing this isn't for everyone. Either is the big brake mod or the PCV mod or the CDV mod.

    This information is valuable to those who would like to do this

    Sticky this



    Sent from my PH-1 using Tapatalk
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  11. #19
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    Quote Originally Posted by CRUISE-CRUZE View Post
    First, the facts:
    1. GM is using the same thermostat on an actual engine (Volt)
    2. GM changed the thermostat to the 2019 1.4L turbo to a mechanical one that opens at 82C!
    3. The gauge doesn't go over 185F (85C), telling you that "everything is ok" although many people boiled their coolant without even knowing it!

    You are too aware of emissions!
    The higher coolant temp and higher pressure is also for higher performances, on theory. Since the Cruze is for "general population" the extra cost didn't worth it! Extra "saving" features as the smart grille that shouts down under certain conditions (I monitored that for long time) were obsolete nowadays since the initial advertising worked but otherwise the 0.5 MPG gain is worthless!

    "Electronically controlled thermostat: The coolant thermostat’s operating point is electronically controlled to optimize engine temperatures during different phases of operation to enhance fuel efficiency. The engine control module monitors sensors and controls the thermostat based on mapping that takes into account the wide range of engine operating conditions, including temperature and load." Sounds awesome but in reality it causes more issues than advantages so GM changed to a mechanical thermostat for the 2019 models, even before!



    To summarize it: today GM is using a similar thermostat for 1.4L turbo as I used to replace the original one. No sensor on my car or my modified cars came on (or check engine) to tell me that something doesn't work properly. So... it is your own choice to do the swap or not based on all these information ...
    The 1.4T engine in the 2nd generation Cruze isn't the same engine as the one in your Cruze. While the Volt's 1.4 engine in the Gen 1 Volt is the same base engine, it never runs as hard as the one in the Cruze does and in fact never exceeds 4500 RPM. The engine tuning in the two cars is dramatically different.

    As for being aware of emissions, you would be aware of them as well if you drove under an electronic highway sign every day and over half the days of the year it's urging you to not drive because of air quality problems. Although no CEL came on when you swapped to a lower temperature your car isn't burning as clean.
    2018 Honda Clarity Touring PHEV - Forest Green w/Tan interior (wife's car)
    2017 Volt LT - Heather Gray; black bow ties, Hidden Content
    2012 ECO MT (Hidden Content ) - Black Granite/Cloth; Hidden Content ; Hidden Content ; OEM Fogs w/Chrome Covers; Hidden Content ; Hidden Content ; Hidden Content
    2010 Mit Lancer GT MT (traded for ECO @31K miles)
    2002 Pont Montana AWD (traded for 2012 LS MT @182K miles - title transferred to son on college graduation)
    1990 Pont Transport (traded for Montana @240K miles)
    1986 Fiero GT MT (traded for Transport - needed more seats)
    1985 Fiero 2M4 MT (traded for Fiero GT @8K miles)

  12. #20
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    Quote Originally Posted by obermd View Post
    The 1.4T engine in the 2nd generation Cruze isn't the same engine as the one in your Cruze. While the Volt's 1.4 engine in the Gen 1 Volt is the same base engine, it never runs as hard as the one in the Cruze does and in fact never exceeds 4500 RPM. The engine tuning in the two cars is dramatically different.

    As for being aware of emissions, you would be aware of them as well if you drove under an electronic highway sign every day and over half the days of the year it's urging you to not drive because of air quality problems. Although no CEL came on when you swapped to a lower temperature your car isn't burning as clean.
    cars with a tune aren't running as clean. cars with dirty air filters arent running as clean. cars with old plugs arent running as clean.

    AGAIN

    This isn't for everyone. This needs to be a sticky for those wanting to do this

    Sent from my PH-1 using Tapatalk
    Last edited by yt400pmd; 02-19-2019 at 09:27 PM.
    CRUISE-CRUZE likes this.

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