Mylink 2.0 Alternative and aftermarket hands free microphone adapter
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Thread: Mylink 2.0 Alternative and aftermarket hands free microphone adapter

  1. #1
    2nd Gear
    Join Date
    Sep 2015

    Mylink Alternative and aftermarket to OEM hands free mic adapter

    For 1st Gen Cruze owners that would like to add Android Auto or Carplay to their vehicle with minimal modifications and keep the original look of their interior without resorting to off-shore clones of questionable quality - Pioneer has released the DMH-C2550NEX. It is a digital media receiver version of the Cruze's radio & screen design and is intended for use in vehicles with limited dash installation space.

    Installation is very easy. The screen is only half as deep as the original screen and about 1/8th inch shorter, so you will need to add some support for it on the screen bezel, but nothing that would be permanent and prevent you from going back to the original system later.

    Optional - If you would rather use the built-in hands free microphone instead of the one provided by Pioneer, you can make an adapter cable. Directions are in the next post.

    Connecting the C2550NEX to your vehicle using an iDatalink Maestro RR allows you to control the same settings that the original radio (non-mylink & mylink) controlled as well as additional functions. It also allows the headunit to work with both the standard and premium sound systems. It seems that Axxess and PAC-Audio are also starting to develop adapters that have the potential for the same level of control, but nothing has been released by either company for the Cruze yet.

    You will lose use of the dash mounted radio/navigation controls, however I am looking into seeing if it can be retained with the help of the aftermarket wiring harness companies.

    Last edited by StLouisCPhT; 04-08-2019 at 06:35 PM.

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  3. #2
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    Join Date
    Sep 2015

    How to make an OEM hands free microphone adapter cable for aftermarket head units.

    You will need the following items:

    1) 2.5mm or 3.5mm mono right angle plug to bare end microphone cable. The size plug needed will depend on your head unit. I recommend a 6 ft cable be used as this will give plenty of length to work with. You can also just cut the microphone that came with the head unit off it's cable if you don't think you'll move the new head unit to a different vehicle later.

    2) Terminated lead (GM Part Number 13579944).

    3) T-Tap connector. (I'm on the fence about these things. I've used them and they work.. but I much prefer a solid inline wire to wire connection.)


    Step 1 - Plug the cable into your head unit then run the other end through your center console so it comes out the back by the BCM. Make sure the cable is loose and not binding or rubbing against anything.

    Step 2 - Remove the sound insulator from under the glove compartment. This is held in place by 2 bolts (9/32) in the front, right below the glove compartment door. Once you have removed the bolts, it will drop onto the floor (if it didn't already start doing that). Put the insulator someplace out the way for now.

    Step 3 - Loosely run the microphone cable across to the right side kick panel. once you do that, add another 12 inches of length and cut off the excess.

    Step 4 - Reach up behind the dash above the RH kick panel. This is where the onstar module is located. You will need to unplug the 2nd connector from the top and pull it down. If there is not enough length, you might need to also remove the top connector. Once you have the connector low enough to work on, verify if a wire is already installed in the #6 position - looking at the side the wires plug into, this will be the top row on the right side. If there is a wire there, skip to Step 6a.

    Step 5 - Strip about 1/4" of the outer cable insulation off. If you damage the inner shielding, cut it off and try again. Un-wrap the inner shield and strip 1/8" of the inner cable insulation off.

    Step 6 - Twist the outer shielding wires together into one. Do the same with the inner cable wire. Then insert both wires into the connector on the GM lead. Make absolutely certain that both the shielding wire and inner cable wire are inside the connector! This is needed for a clear audio signal! Tightly crimp the connector closed. Release the pin lock on the X2 connector, then insert the GM lead into position #6 until you hear it click into place. Close the lock tab and plug the connector(s) back into the onstar module.

    Step 6a - If a wire is already in the X2 at position #6, splice your microphone wire to it using a t-tap connector.

    Step 7 - This is the most important step. Test the connection by triggering Siri/Voice Control on the new head unit. This will be a lot easier with Siri... I have not used Android Auto so I don't know if it gives a visual indication of audio input received. Do not say anything, just watch your display to see if there is any activity. The less shown the better as this means that the system is picking up very little ambient/electrical noise and you will have a clear hands free audio signal. (My installation shows a perfect flatline in Siri when tested, even with my vehicle running.) The system will probably timeout while you are checking this. If it does, trigger Siri/Voice Control again and try a command to verify that it is received and understood.

    Step 8 - If you have a clear audio channel and your commands are received and understood, then tuck the cable up out of sight in the dash and reinstall the sound insulator.

    Thanks go to @dhpnet for providing the original diagram and Onstar pinout information as part of the Mylink retrofit project.
    Last edited by StLouisCPhT; 04-08-2019 at 01:58 PM.

  4. #3
    2nd Gear
    Join Date
    Sep 2015
    Two more pictures.

    I should point out that none of the photos of the radio functions I have posted require the Maestro RR to be connected to the obdii port.

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