What your working on sounds interesting. I'm building a flange to mount an external oil cooler. I seen some where in here questions about oil temperature. From what I remember back in the 20 years I drove a semi. The oil temp was 10 to 15 degrees hotter then the coolant temperature. So i am working on the flame to get the oil temperature down.Thanks, no hard feelings at all.
As I live about 2100 miles from you and haven't been to Detroit since the early 1980's when I was considering a job as an engine controls engineer at one of the big four (at that time) auto makers, it is unlikely.
I decided against relocating there obviously, and chose a rather different engineering career instead.
Believe me though, I do know how engine controls are designed and how they work...
BTW, one of the conditions I specifically encountered was a sustained run over the course of about half an hour and about 30 miles distance.
The vehicle speed was always above 60mph, the OAT was around 90F, and the A/C was off (so no fan).
These are all conditions that the ECU uses to determine the "need" for a shutter closure.
Despite running in the high 190's F prior to that, it suddenly began climbing up to 225F-230F as it did before my electronic thermostat mod.
Then on the return trip it did the same thing again after about 30 miles of highway driving.
If you do not duplicate those conditions you will probably never encounter the problem at all, to be quite honest.
Since defeating the shutters, there has not been even one repeat of this behavior and it happily runs now at around 196F-205F under basically identical conditions.
The problem with 176F as a mod is that we have draconian emissions testing here and it could fail for various reasons if operated at that temperature.
If there had been a 195F option using your method (believe me, I searched for one) I definitely would have tried it.
So it was just not an option for me.
Again, no disrespect for your method or original posts.
I am currently working on an elegant cheat of the fan controls to regulate the radiator output to a lower temperature.
I did this on another car and it worked like a charm but it may or may not work as well on the Cruze.
However, if that doesn't pan out I will just use a commercial secondary fan control thermostat.
In fact I already have one stuck away in a cabinet somewhere... if I can remember where I put it...
1.4 ECO - Thermostat Swap - 221°F to 176°F!
OK, let’s start!
I had multiple Cruze cars since 2011, unfortunately I can’t say I have/had one free of issues! Talking about the heating and cooling, I saw different & multiple issues reported by people. I did many changes to my cars during the years and I’m going to share with you a few interesting things about the thermostat, specific for 1.4L turbo (ECO). It can be similar issues for other trims, even for Diesel, but the cars I tested & modified are Cruze ECO 2011-2014.
Based on testing 4 cars, here are my observations:
First, the “input data”:
![Text Font Auto part Speedometer]()
4. The expansion OE tank cap is opening only at 20PSI.
Under all these conditions, the coolant temperatures during normal driving conditions stays around 220°-230°F. I said normal driving conditions because when the engine is overheating, the ECM controls and changes everything. It may open the shutter grille to help cooling down and also it can open the thermostat at any temperatures it “wants”, based on data collection. So, not only that you drive with coolant at high temperature, but also the entire system is at high pressure, since the tank cap opens over 20 PSI. In theory, a higher engine operating temperature helps improving its performances. Well, maintaining a higher temperature for the engine and cooling system requires also better quality system parts. Coolant’s boiling point is way too high under the condition I mentioned so everything is ok until… One small crack into the system will lower the PSI and of course the boiling point of your coolant. Add adding more water into the system and you will lower it even more until the coolant will start boiling time to time, without you notice it I replaced the recovery tank a few times, and many hoses all the time! Many others did the same things on this forum.
Sick of changing parts all year along I decided to change the thermostat and go “old school”. It took me a while until I found something that works but here is what I did. I bought a new thermostat housing 55593035Dorman 902-2080 (GM) that is for Cadillac ELR 2014 Chevy Volt 2011-2014. Do not buy MotoRad, it is a different new model, it will not work! You need the one with the “cage”, see the attachment. The housing is different from the outside, but the internal thermostat is fully compatible with Cruze’s thermostat housing. Push the cage and rotate as in my picture, then take out the spring and “cage”. The thermostat will come out relatively easy. It looks the same as the other one, only the wax inside is different and starts opening at 176°F (80°C). Be careful with the 2 legs, don’t bend them so they can go straight back into the housing.
I’ll not got into details of how to take out the existing thermostat, there are good posts on this forum. Put everything back, and make sure you have enough coolant. Then, old school again, I changed the tank cover with one that is opening at 15 PSI, not 20 PSI (MOTORAD T46 )!
I did this replacement on 6 ECO-s and these cars have between 500 to 3200 miles since. No issues at all! The temperature goes usually up to ~184°F then the thermostat is fully opened so the temperature goes down around 180°F. I didn’t notice any drastic changes to MPG! I have hot air blowing inside the car as I had before the swap.
I did all the changes I mentioned because me and my friends have multiple issues with the cooling system since 2011. If you like the solution and have questions, please let me know. I don’t want to argue with anybody about why GM built the system in the way it is so don’t challenge me!
![Auto part Font Automotive lighting Automotive super charger part Automotive fog light]()
![Water Fluid Drink]()
![Water Plastic Plastic bottle Cylinder]()
I had multiple Cruze cars since 2011, unfortunately I can’t say I have/had one free of issues! Talking about the heating and cooling, I saw different & multiple issues reported by people. I did many changes to my cars during the years and I’m going to share with you a few interesting things about the thermostat, specific for 1.4L turbo (ECO). It can be similar issues for other trims, even for Diesel, but the cars I tested & modified are Cruze ECO 2011-2014.
Based on testing 4 cars, here are my observations:
First, the “input data”:
- The OE Thermostat on Chevy Cruze ECO (1.4L turbo) from 2011 to 2016, is with a wax thermostatic element that starts opening at 105°C (221°F).
- The OE Thermostat is also wired and controlled by ECM. Based on different algorithms and program codes, the thermostat can open at any temperature at any time, if the ECM requires that!
- The water temperature display gauge is… a joke! I monitored it for different cars and compared with data from OBD. The dial moves when the temperatures increases until… until 185°F (85°C) only! Then stays there, right before 6 o’clock, no matter how high is the real water temperature. When I tested this, I changed the coolant concentration, adding much more water into the system and let the engine run until the water started boiling. The gauge was at the same position max position, telling me “everything’s ok!
4. The expansion OE tank cap is opening only at 20PSI.
Under all these conditions, the coolant temperatures during normal driving conditions stays around 220°-230°F. I said normal driving conditions because when the engine is overheating, the ECM controls and changes everything. It may open the shutter grille to help cooling down and also it can open the thermostat at any temperatures it “wants”, based on data collection. So, not only that you drive with coolant at high temperature, but also the entire system is at high pressure, since the tank cap opens over 20 PSI. In theory, a higher engine operating temperature helps improving its performances. Well, maintaining a higher temperature for the engine and cooling system requires also better quality system parts. Coolant’s boiling point is way too high under the condition I mentioned so everything is ok until… One small crack into the system will lower the PSI and of course the boiling point of your coolant. Add adding more water into the system and you will lower it even more until the coolant will start boiling time to time, without you notice it I replaced the recovery tank a few times, and many hoses all the time! Many others did the same things on this forum.
Sick of changing parts all year along I decided to change the thermostat and go “old school”. It took me a while until I found something that works but here is what I did. I bought a new thermostat housing 55593035Dorman 902-2080 (GM) that is for Cadillac ELR 2014 Chevy Volt 2011-2014. Do not buy MotoRad, it is a different new model, it will not work! You need the one with the “cage”, see the attachment. The housing is different from the outside, but the internal thermostat is fully compatible with Cruze’s thermostat housing. Push the cage and rotate as in my picture, then take out the spring and “cage”. The thermostat will come out relatively easy. It looks the same as the other one, only the wax inside is different and starts opening at 176°F (80°C). Be careful with the 2 legs, don’t bend them so they can go straight back into the housing.
I’ll not got into details of how to take out the existing thermostat, there are good posts on this forum. Put everything back, and make sure you have enough coolant. Then, old school again, I changed the tank cover with one that is opening at 15 PSI, not 20 PSI (MOTORAD T46 )!
I did this replacement on 6 ECO-s and these cars have between 500 to 3200 miles since. No issues at all! The temperature goes usually up to ~184°F then the thermostat is fully opened so the temperature goes down around 180°F. I didn’t notice any drastic changes to MPG! I have hot air blowing inside the car as I had before the swap.
I did all the changes I mentioned because me and my friends have multiple issues with the cooling system since 2011. If you like the solution and have questions, please let me know. I don’t want to argue with anybody about why GM built the system in the way it is so don’t challenge me!
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Your setup sounds very nice. Congrats.
Unfortunately that would for certain fail emissions testing here on a technicality (missing front cat) even if the exhaust coming out the tailpipe consisted of nothing but rose petals and fresh air.
But in places that are more reasonable and sensible, it sounds like a nice way to help keep things running cooler.
Sorry to dig up old thread, but I did the Chevy volt 176°f thermostate switch and now I'm running to cold. Had issues with my fan and coolant boiling over and eventually the plastic water outlet gave away. So now I redone the fans, radiator l, upper and lower hose, reservoir. Now she's running to cold. Doesn't ever go over 150°f. Both thermostates where dormans. I still have the original which I may put back in. Any idea what I done wrong? Car is 2011 Cruze 1.4T auto.OK, let’s start!
I had multiple Cruze cars since 2011, unfortunately I can’t say I have/had one free of issues! Talking about the heating and cooling, I saw different & multiple issues reported by people. I did many changes to my cars during the years and I’m going to share with you a few interesting things about the thermostat, specific for 1.4L turbo (ECO). It can be similar issues for other trims, even for Diesel, but the cars I tested & modified are Cruze ECO 2011-2014.
Based on testing 4 cars, here are my observations:
First, the “input data”:
View attachment 254945
- The OE Thermostat on Chevy Cruze ECO (1.4L turbo) from 2011 to 2016, is with a wax thermostatic element that starts opening at 105°C (221°F).
- The OE Thermostat is also wired and controlled by ECM. Based on different algorithms and program codes, the thermostat can open at any temperature at any time, if the ECM requires that!
- The water temperature display gauge is… a joke! I monitored it for different cars and compared with data from OBD. The dial moves when the temperatures increases until… until 185°F (85°C) only! Then stays there, right before 6 o’clock, no matter how high is the real water temperature. When I tested this, I changed the coolant concentration, adding much more water into the system and let the engine run until the water started boiling. The gauge was at the same position max position, telling me “everything’s ok!
4. The expansion OE tank cap is opening only at 20PSI.
Under all these conditions, the coolant temperatures during normal driving conditions stays around 220°-230°F. I said normal driving conditions because when the engine is overheating, the ECM controls and changes everything. It may open the shutter grille to help cooling down and also it can open the thermostat at any temperatures it “wants”, based on data collection. So, not only that you drive with coolant at high temperature, but also the entire system is at high pressure, since the tank cap opens over 20 PSI. In theory, a higher engine operating temperature helps improving its performances. Well, maintaining a higher temperature for the engine and cooling system requires also better quality system parts. Coolant’s boiling point is way too high under the condition I mentioned so everything is ok until… One small crack into the system will lower the PSI and of course the boiling point of your coolant. Add adding more water into the system and you will lower it even more until the coolant will start boiling time to time, without you notice it I replaced the recovery tank a few times, and many hoses all the time! Many others did the same things on this forum.
Sick of changing parts all year along I decided to change the thermostat and go “old school”. It took me a while until I found something that works but here is what I did. I bought a new thermostat housing 55593035Dorman 902-2080 (GM) that is for Cadillac ELR 2014 Chevy Volt 2011-2014. Do not buy MotoRad, it is a different new model, it will not work! You need the one with the “cage”, see the attachment. The housing is different from the outside, but the internal thermostat is fully compatible with Cruze’s thermostat housing. Push the cage and rotate as in my picture, then take out the spring and “cage”. The thermostat will come out relatively easy. It looks the same as the other one, only the wax inside is different and starts opening at 176°F (80°C). Be careful with the 2 legs, don’t bend them so they can go straight back into the housing.
I’ll not got into details of how to take out the existing thermostat, there are good posts on this forum. Put everything back, and make sure you have enough coolant. Then, old school again, I changed the tank cover with one that is opening at 15 PSI, not 20 PSI (MOTORAD T46 )!
I did this replacement on 6 ECO-s and these cars have between 500 to 3200 miles since. No issues at all! The temperature goes usually up to ~184°F then the thermostat is fully opened so the temperature goes down around 180°F. I didn’t notice any drastic changes to MPG! I have hot air blowing inside the car as I had before the swap.
I did all the changes I mentioned because me and my friends have multiple issues with the cooling system since 2011. If you like the solution and have questions, please let me know. I don’t want to argue with anybody about why GM built the system in the way it is so don’t challenge me!
View attachment 254953 View attachment 254961 View attachment 254969
Fan setting from the FB group
![Font Number Document]()
i cant find through the link, its not working. I bought the same parts and thought i put it back to gether right but my car barley registers on the thermostat. Ive been without a car a week and am about ready to push it over the cliff. I have been through every coolant issue nearly. PLERASE HELPThank you for your post! A few other people asked me and it is good to know when somebody else does changes that are working and help us to deal with our issues. I counted 9 cars, including you, that I'm aware about this change (or I did it myself to a few) and have no more issues. Two main things to watch:
1. The thermostat has 2 version, one version you can't take out the inside component so you need the other one, see it also here:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/112394548622?ViewItem=&item=112394548622&ppid=PPX0
2. Make sure you properly add back the coolant after the replacement and take out the air from the installation when done!
As a remark, the latest Cruze model (1.4 turbo) is using the OE thermostat that opens at 82 Celsius! You can't use that model, it doesn't match to our 2011 & 2012 models but just for your reference only, the thermostat that opens at 105C "to improve car performances" is for a different application, market, in my opinion.
241 - 260 of 270 Posts
