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2016 Cruze Limited 1LT auto 1.4L
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That's why the day my water pump broke, the engine's fan was going full throttle, while the temp gauge stayed in the center, not moving an inch.
The engine was basically running dry on coolant. I could swear it would be coitus-ing up my car!
Idk what you guys are talking about, my cruzes tamp gauge went all the way up to the red when my water pump decided to kill itself
 

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Discussion Starter · #166 ·
Did the thermostat mod this week and it seems to be good. Running around 176 to 181 degrees. Thanks.
I did so many swaps until now that I forgot the numbers, with one exception (defective part) no one had issues so no worries! You will not boil the coolant any longer in the summer and you'll have no issues during the cold winter, the hot air will blow as normal thru the the vents. Make sure you bleed the air properly from the system!
 

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Discussion Starter · #167 ·
Idk what you guys are talking about, my cruzes tamp gauge went all the way up to the red when my water pump decided to kill itself
Use your OBD and check the coolant temperature. The dial moves when the temperatures increases until 85°F (85°C) only! From that point no change although you may go
Idk what you guys are talking about, my cruzes tamp gauge went all the way up to the red when my water pump decided to kill itself
Use the OBD and check the real coolant temperature. The dial moves when the temperatures increases until 85°C (185°F) only! From that point no change although the temperature will go up to 107°-110°C sometimes! You had a failure and that's what the gauge "showed" you but you won't see anything, gradually go up, after the half of the marks.
 

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2012 Cruze LTZ 1989 StarQuest 2004 TrialBlazer EXT
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planned for this weekend along with all my other fluid changes and the pile of stuff I have to bolt on
 

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2016 Cruze Limited 1LT auto 1.4L
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Use your OBD and check the coolant temperature. The dial moves when the temperatures increases until 85°F (85°C) only! From that point no change although you may go

Use the OBD and check the real coolant temperature. The dial moves when the temperatures increases until 85°C (185°F) only! From that point no change although the temperature will go up to 107°-110°C sometimes! You had a failure and that's what the gauge "showed" you but you won't see anything, gradually go up, after the half of the marks.
Ohhhhh ok I see what u mean
 

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2016 Chevy Cruze Limited LTZ 1.4t
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I’ve been thinking of this same subject recently. Good to know the factory radiator has enough capacity to keep the coolant temps at around 180/190. Radiator is what I was worried about.
I’ve also been considering a larger oil cooler (even if I have to make one myself) to help bring that down to much lower than the current average of 250+/-.
These engines run entirely too hot! I have a Duramax that I use when I make road trips. This little car is primarily for my city trips, like errands. I don’t care one bit if I lose 1 to 2 mpg; I care about the longevity of the drivetrain.
It would take an act of Congress to get me to believe that the condensation has any real and recorded detrimental impacts. Maybe it’s because I grew up in the 90s working on the standard 350s/351s that I have this mindset, but it’s been grilled into my head many years now that heat is the primary “enemy” of engines.

Furthermore, I highly doubt this has any real effect on emissions. Sure, the fuel won’t be atomizing quite as much, but the computer should adjust by dumping slightly less fuel. Either way, to me, the heat this baby engine produces is far more detrimental than anything else.
 

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It's not a Cruze, it's his relative from europe, opel astra j 1.4 turbo 140 ponies
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And some of the problems persist to this day, sometimes despite 2 or 3 supposed design revisions to address known issues...

This engine was an Opel design to begin with, so it was in use in Europe for 3-4 years before being offered in the U.S. market.
It had sufficient time to get the bugs ironed out.
I dont know what temps or pressures these early European market vehicles used though.
Perhaps GM upped them on the U.S. models.
Thermostat opening is 217 F(103 C), to hell with that, i was thinking of replacing the thermostat inside but the cadillac thermostat is almost 100$ here in romania. I'll try with buying the older gen thermostat from the 1.4 opel astra h/g and maybe i'll get lucky with that. I have already replaced my thermostat because it was leaking and when i wanted to only change the gasket the thermostat ears broke off so i had to buy a new one. My car (after it warms up) runs from 99 C up to 108 C but i would like something cooler aswell and i can't find any dorman's parts in romania or in europe. Usually it sits between 103 to 108 C. How i found out? Easy, for opel there is a 2nd menu in the CB cluster area wich shows the temp cool, alternator charge and a few more things. It should work on the cruze aswell but i believe you will need a TECH2 to activate them.
LE: i finally found the right thermostat for chevy volt-cadillac-opel ampera;
CALORSTAT by Vernet 32$ https://www.autodoc24.ro/calorstat-by-vernet/12209136
 

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It's not a Cruze, it's his relative from europe, opel astra j 1.4 turbo 140 ponies
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Ordered the dorman and the reservoir cap from amazon. The thermostat was the only one left remaining. The shipping is more expensive than i've expected but eh, around the same price as in romania for noname brands. Let's hope i don't screw this up and it will work.
 

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It's not a Cruze, it's his relative from europe, opel astra j 1.4 turbo 140 ponies
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The thermostat and the cap arrived. Sooner than expected, almost a month earlier also no other taxes were involved. I was expecting some extra charges because of some mail dhl sent me and there were some fees but luckly no such thing occured. I will swap the parts once the weather will get better, for now it's hell on earth because of the storm.
Before the thermostat and the cap mod
293762

293763

293764
 

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Discussion Starter · #174 ·
(y)
If you really want you can test the thermostat in boiling water. I did that with the first ones, just to make sure they work at the advertised temperature. I used a special thermometer and all of them opened at max 85C.
 

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It's not a Cruze, it's his relative from europe, opel astra j 1.4 turbo 140 ponies
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Nah, i'll just take the car for a testdrive for 20 miles and will see from there. In theory it is supposed to be the good one.
 

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It's not a Cruze, it's his relative from europe, opel astra j 1.4 turbo 140 ponies
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I have done it guys, it took a lot of fidling around but i've done it, i was already used to it because i've already changed the thermostat back in the spring time. Started the engine, went on a 6 mile cruze, the coolant temp stays around the value of 80-90 C without the fan kicking on. After that i was a sitting duck for a few minutes to see if the temp will rise and it does, it goes straight up to 108 when the fan kicks but i started moving again at 106 and after a few yards the coolant started to drop again to its normal rate of 90. At 85 MPH (130 km/h) the coolant will barely pass 80-85 and at one point i even saw 79. Overall i am impressed by it. Next step will be to mod the fan to start at 97-98 and stop at 90 something, maybe i'll get lucky enough and it will be a nice project to do but i will have to talk to a friend of mine wich is auto electronist guru.
 

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It's not a Cruze, it's his relative from europe, opel astra j 1.4 turbo 140 ponies
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PS: if you're wondering what's with the clamp: i used it a bit when i removed the spring from the old housing so it wouldn't jump all over the place
 

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Discussion Starter · #179 ·
C'mon, no need for the clamp, just use a mechanical glove or a rug, I've done that so many times that I can do it with my bare fingers now :)
For the radiator fan it will be hard to tune it. ECM controls when it stars and that is related not only to the engine but also to the outside temperature. ECM also could open the thermostat at any temperature, in certain conditions it can open it earlier IF the computer algorithms would match. In theory would be easier to changed these algorithms than even replacing the thermostat but I personally stay away of touching the ECM. :)
 

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It's not a Cruze, it's his relative from europe, opel astra j 1.4 turbo 140 ponies
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The clamp was used when i detached the core of the thermostats so pieces wouldn’t fly away because of the tensioned spring. I used my bare fingers and it works if done quickly and with a determined motion.
 
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