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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi guys,

I started having issues with my idle RPM jumping from 720 to 650 and back to 700 every 2 seconds as seen on Torque App, but only when stopped, with the AT in D, and only when the engine is warmed up (so the Neutral Idle get's engaged). I have no error codes and no other problems that I can feel, hear or see with the car.

Last things that changed on the car were:
1. The AT had a bulletin applied to fix the neutral idle engaging and disengaging on its own at a stop, causing the car to want to move forward
2. New spark plugs were installed, same as factory ones

I was thinking my Valve Cover might be going bad, but I dont have other symptoms. Thank you in advance for any suggestions.

Thank you,
Cristian
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Thanks jbkackburn! What does not make sense to me, why would that happen only in D and at a stop? Why not in Manual mode, or at Idle? What role does the neutral idle play in all this?

After reading your reply, I said to myself it might be caused by the brakes. So I pulled the hand brake and pushed hard on the brake pedal at stops and the surge stopped. It got me even more confused...
 

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Mine was a manual, so that was just the behavior that I noticed. Idle would dip to 500 RPM when clutching in to slow down, then recover, then hunt a bit.

Only in Drive would cause me to think it was the first thing you mentioned (clutch packs in the transmission) had they not already been replaced as you said. Unless it's that same issue returning.

I would check for the check valve in the intake manifold (pull off the corrugated hose and look for the orange dot), and make sure that the PCV disc on the valve cover isn't hissing. Should be a quick 5-min check.
 

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Thread moved.

Actually, come to think of it, "D" in an automatic would mean that the car was in neutral at a stop. "Manual" mode would keep it under a slight load. My manual was also jumping around when under no load at all (neutral/clutch in)

So, I think 1st - check PCV system. 2nd - maybe it's the clutch packs in the trans again. I've seen some people say that they had it "fixed" only for the symptoms to return again. I think they may not have even completely eliminated that issue on the 2nd gen - I feel what feels like a slight misfire or slightly rough idle in drive, but it stops if I pop it into neutral when it's still running at a stop.
 

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My money's on the clutch packs happening again. They never really fixed the issue with them, they just replace them with the same ones (but brand new) and you're pretty much bound to have the problem reoccur at some point.
 

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Mine does it too but it's temp dependant. If be checking to see if you have pcv issues first cause I had some and fixing it helped everything about how the car worked.
 

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Rpm stumble can also be bad plugs, not sure if this was already meantioned. But an intermittent misfire can cause this an sometimes not trip the MIL light right away
 

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Rpm stumble can also be bad plugs, not sure if this was already meantioned. But an intermittent misfire can cause this an sometimes not trip the MIL light right away
True, but if this is only happening in "D" and not in "M", that points to a transmission problem.
 

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I'm experiencing something similar with my 2014 Cruze LT 1.4L Turbo that has 79,000 miles on it. I've only owned the car since August 2020 and this started happening once the weather turned warmer around April. I had a leaky water outlet, so I replaced that only to have the thermostat start to leak a month later. I've replaced the thermostat as well and still shakes. I wasn't expecting either to fix the shaking, but hey, why not hope for something silly positive?

The car starts to shake about 3-5 seconds after coming to a stop with my foot on the brake and car in Drive. Sometimes the shaking is mild, sometimes it vibrates like a massage chair with a V8. If I flip it into Manual, it stops. Once the tank gets under about a quarter tank the car shakes less.

No check engine light.

There are times it doesn't shake and times it does shake. I'm hoping it's plugs or ignition coil because the clutch plate option seems pricey.

Edit, also should probably mention, the RPM does not go up or down.
Edit2, just went to lunch. 63° and 3/4 full tank of gas, no shaking, however, once I turned the A/C it started shaking.
 

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I'm experiencing something similar with my 2014 Cruze LT 1.4L Turbo that has 79,000 miles on it. I've only owned the car since August 2020 and this started happening once the weather turned warmer around April. I had a leaky water outlet, so I replaced that only to have the thermostat start to leak a month later. I've replaced the thermostat as well and still shakes. I wasn't expecting either to fix the shaking, but hey, why not hope for something silly positive?

The car starts to shake about 3-5 seconds after coming to a stop with my foot on the brake and car in Drive. Sometimes the shaking is mild, sometimes it vibrates like a massage chair with a V8. If I flip it into Manual, it stops. Once the tank gets under about a quarter tank the car shakes less.

I've tried having the A/C on and off, no difference.
I've tried having the heat on and off, no difference.
No check engine light.

There are times it doesn't shake and times it does shake. I'm hoping it's plugs or ignition coil because the clutch plate option seems pricey.
Try a purge valve. Common problem, easy and cheap to replace, and often shows up with more gas in the tank in hot weather or just after a fill-up.

However, knocking it into manual does point towards the clutch pack issue. That puts it back "in gear" rather than netural mode in Drive at a stop.
 

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Try a purge valve. Common problem, easy and cheap to replace, and often shows up with more gas in the tank in hot weather or just after a fill-up.

However, knocking it into manual does point towards the clutch pack issue. That puts it back "in gear" rather than netural mode in Drive at a stop.
Sure hope it's not the clutch plate, that's probably more work than I can do in my parking lot, lol.

I'm not sure what this matters, but it seems to be related to the A/C. I drove it around for a bit on lunch and waited for the temperature to reach it's normal spot. Still no shakes, until I flipped the A/C on. Once the A/C was on, it started shaking while stopped and in Drive. 🤷‍♂️
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
In my case, the dealer replaced the cluck pack and it made no difference. It is still doing the same thing as before. But when the AC is ON, I don't have that issue. I replaced the coil pack, all coolant pipes, valve colver, intake manifold and spark plugs since I posted here, and this issue remains. I read somewhere it might be the brake pedal sensor but I never figured out how to recalibrate it nor replace it.
 

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In my case, the dealer replaced the cluck pack and it made no difference. It is still doing the same thing as before. But when the AC is ON, I don't have that issue. I replaced the coil pack, all coolant pipes, valve colver, intake manifold and spark plugs since I posted here, and this issue remains. I read somewhere it might be the brake pedal sensor but I never figured out how to recalibrate it nor replace it.
I'm hoping Clutch Plates are not the issue. That seems costly. I did notice recently that it's not the A/C being on that causes the shaking/trembling. It starts happening with the fan being turned on and gets worse if I use front/rear defrost. I thought it was just the A/C, but seems that's not the only contributor. What a weird thing.
 
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