[asdetail]

A friend of mine in Sydney has just had his 1.6T hatch tuned by BNR in the last few days and has 160kw and around 190nm of torque. This is so far the only 1.6T Jerry has tuned.

190kw??, so it lost 40nm as a result of the tune?

 

[Aussie]

190kw??, so it lost 40nm as a result of the tune?

Actually it is around 300nm, I think initially it was 290 and I hit the wrong key. The power is 165kw last I heard. You also used the wrong letters, so you know how easy it is to do.

 

[Tatsu_oz]

I'd be very Careful if I was him. The stock Holden clutch for 1.6 Turbo is a dual mass clutch. A LOT of people, me included have got less than 50,000k's out of them on a STOCK tune. I swear they are made of cheese. The genuine clutch is around $3k supplied and fitted. There is only 1 aftermarket option and that's an Exedy at approx. $3400 fitted. Exedy advise it's a STOCK replacement. There is currently no single flywheel replacement.

Sure you can get the power but when the drive train can't cope is it worth it?

 

[Aussie]

I'd be very Careful if I was him. The stock Holden clutch for 1.6 Turbo is a dual mass clutch. A LOT of people, me included have got less than 50,000k's out of them on a STOCK tune. I swear they are made of cheese. The genuine clutch is around $3k supplied and fitted. There is only 1 aftermarket option and that's an Exedy at approx. $3400 fitted. Exedy advise it's a STOCK replacement. There is currently no single flywheel replacement.

Sure you can get the power but when the drive train can't cope is it worth it?

The car is automatic, the same 6T45 as my 360nm diesel has, so it is fine. I have a 2012 CDX series II diesel and the automatic has worked flawlessly so far.

 

[Nathan of Aus.]

Bear in mind that diesels use a longer final drive ratio due to a lower reving engine.
Petrols tend to rev ~3/2 times higher and therefore tend to have a ~2/3 times lower final drive ratio.
Using those extremely generalised figures gives you a similar wheel-torque as the 1.6T.
Therefore the stress to the drive-train wouldn't be noticeably higher than with the 1.6T, as the engine torque is being "diluted" down to the 1.6T's level.
I know I'm generalising massively here with the figures, but the general concept holds true.

On a side note this is why diesels with a ~50% higher torque-to-weight ratio than their petrol equivalent, tend to get similar 0-100km/h times despite the massive torque advantage.
Hence why power-to-weight is a better general indicator of acceleration, as the higher power to torque ratio indicates a higher reving engine and therefore a higher final drive ratio.

I know I'm blabbing on a bit but hopefully that's insightful to someone. =)

 

[Aussie]

Bear in mind that diesels use a longer final drive ratio due to a lower reving engine.
Petrols tend to rev ~3/2 times higher and therefore tend to have a ~2/3 times lower final drive ratio.
Using those extremely generalised figures gives you a similar wheel-torque as the 1.6T.
Therefore the stress to the drive-train wouldn't be noticeably higher than with the 1.6T, as the engine torque is being "diluted" down to the 1.6T's level.
I know I'm generalising massively here with the figures, but the general concept holds true.

On a side note this is why diesels with a ~50% higher torque-to-weight ratio than their petrol equivalent, tend to get similar 0-100km/h times despite the massive torque advantage.
Hence why power-to-weight is a better general indicator of acceleration, as the higher power to torque ratio indicates a higher reving engine and therefore a higher final drive ratio.

I know I'm blabbing on a bit but hopefully that's insightful to someone. =)

Having a 2012 CDX diesel and a 2015 SRI-V manual in the family, I have to disagree about the strain on the drive train. The 1.6T would most likely win a straight out drag race as it has more power than the diesel. Put 5 adults in both cars and my money would be on the diesel, especially going up hill. The 120nm extra torque available is at 1750rpm in my model diesel and would definitely put more strain on the transmission. I have the opportunity to get a BNR tune, but don't to over torque the auto transmission, at the moment the standard car is only 60nm from the max on the transmission and I like to have a safety margin. Even a tuned 1.6T is still way behind the torque of the diese. Having a taller final drive will put more strain on the transmission, not less, as it takes more effort to move the vehicle.

 

[Disco Inferno]

Curious, has anyone sat one of these BNR tuned 1.6Ts on a dyno or are the power and torque figures guesstimated via maths?

Having local dealers for a flash tune developed overseas for a different engine but modified for our unique setup raises some red flags really

BUT - the BNR tunes are far from the only ones on the market so I'm not picking on them specifically.

I had a mail-order flash tune on a 5.0 VT Clubsport I had years ago and that motor cooked a cylinder at just on 200,000kms.

Correlation vs causation and all that, but it left me eternally suspicious of one-size-fits-all tunes :sad010:

 

[Aussie]

Curious, has anyone sat one of these BNR tuned 1.6Ts on a dyno or are the power and torque figures guesstimated via maths?

Having local dealers for a flash tune developed overseas for a different engine but modified for our unique setup raises some red flags really

BUT - the BNR tunes are far from the only ones on the market so I'm not picking on them specifically.

I had a mail-order flash tune on a 5.0 VT Clubsport I had years ago and that motor cooked a cylinder at just on 200,000kms.

Correlation vs causation and all that, but it left me eternally suspicious of one-size-fits-all tunes :sad010:

My friend in Campbelltown is a BNR dealer and he has a 1.6T hatchback tuned. After the initial tune the data is sent to Jerry at BNR and adjusted to the car. This is repeated until it is right. The automatic transmission is altered as well. I have driven it and it goes quite well, but I have to admit that while the gear change is really good I prefer the standard shifting in my CDX diesel for smoothness. My daughter has a 2015 SRI-V manual hatchback untouched and it too is a nice drive, but the tuned one is quite a bit quicker. If you want his contact details PM me and I will give them to you.

 

[Tre-Cool]

Im at 55k km's in my cruze now. it's still making 156whp on my dyno. stock was mid 120's at best. when i ran it on ethanol, the stock clutch would slip bad when coming on to boost. that tune ran around 176whp with the stock exhaust.

i actually spent about an hour and bit on the dyno a couple of weeks ago to mellow the low rpm out i.e sub 3k rpm boost curve, as it was getting too easy to spin the tyres, in the rain it was always spinning when you gave it a boot full in first 3 gears. the new tune also holds the power in the upper rpm a lot better.

I just loaded the same tune into my brothers car this morning, so i might even get his on the dyno tonight and do a comparison.

 

[Nathan of Aus.]

Having a 2012 CDX diesel and a 2015 SRI-V manual in the family, I have to disagree about the strain on the drive train. The 1.6T would most likely win a straight out drag race as it has more power than the diesel. Put 5 adults in both cars and my money would be on the diesel, especially going up hill. The 120nm extra torque available is at 1750rpm in my model diesel and would definitely put more strain on the transmission. I have the opportunity to get a BNR tune, but don't to over torque the auto transmission, at the moment the standard car is only 60nm from the max on the transmission and I like to have a safety margin. Even a tuned 1.6T is still way behind the torque of the diese. Having a taller final drive will put more strain on the transmission, not less, as it takes more effort to move the vehicle.

0-100km/h is all about wheel torque-to-weight ratio (and of course traction). Power becomes relevant when the forces of drag due to rolling and wind resistance start to become significant (well over 100km/h). Given that the two cars weigh roughly the same that means your 2015 SRI-V is winning because it has a higher wheel torque. If you were to measure the top speeds of the cars this would reflect their power-to-drag coefficient ratio, giving the 1.6T the upper hand.
I agree that more torque absolutely helps reduce the effects of increased mass.
Sure your car hits peak torque earlier at 1750rpm, but that is actually just as high in the rev range relative to its 5000rpm redline as is peak torque in the 1.6T at 2200rpm with a redline at 6500rpm (both reach peak torque at ~35% max revs). In other words the lower reving engine makes peak torque at a proportionally lower rpm. So I wouldn't really call this an advantage. If it came online at below 1500rpm then sure.
Fair enough, I'd likely do the same. It sure could be an expensive lesson.
Touche on gearing vs drive-train strain. I had it back to front. The longer the ratio the greater the stress.

 

[Aussie]

0-100km/h is all about wheel torque-to-weight ratio (and of course traction). Power becomes relevant when the forces of drag due to rolling and wind resistance start to become significant (well over 100km/h). Given that the two cars weigh roughly the same that means your 2015 SRI-V is winning because it has a higher wheel torque. If you were to measure the top speeds of the cars this would reflect their power-to-drag coefficient ratio, giving the 1.6T the upper hand.
I agree that more torque absolutely helps reduce the effects of increased mass.
Sure your car hits peak torque earlier at 1750rpm, but that is actually just as high in the rev range relative to its 5000rpm redline as is peak torque in the 1.6T at 2200rpm with a redline at 6500rpm (both reach peak torque at ~35% max revs). In other words the lower reving engine makes peak torque at a proportionally lower rpm. So I wouldn't really call this an advantage. If it came online at below 1500rpm then sure.
Fair enough, I'd likely do the same. It sure could be an expensive lesson.
Touche on gearing vs drive-train strain. I had it back to front. The longer the ratio the greater the stress.

The Australian diesel has a redline of 4,500rpm and the final drive is 2.64, which is taller than the US diesel. Add 100kg extra weight over the 1.6T and the 16hp difference not a lot, it is the extra weight that matters. The 176 f/lbs V the diesel 266 f/lbs is strongly in favour of the diesel though.

 

[maagz]

Not sure if this is way too late to jump in on this but I've had my Cruze 1.6L Turbo SRI-V MY14 for about 2 months now (bought it with 35k on the clock). Anyway, I took off both of those mufflers at the back, mines straight through from the resonator to the exhaust, no muffler at all. Put a 2.5" exhaust tip on it and she purrs beautifully.

I want to do either SRI or CAI (can't decide) but can only find parts for the 1.4L turbo. The engine bays look practically identical. Can I use the same parts, like an Injen cold air intake or a K&N Short Ram or anything or the like?

 

[Aussie]

Not sure if this is way too late to jump in on this but I've had my Cruze 1.6L Turbo SRI-V MY14 for about 2 months now (bought it with 35k on the clock). Anyway, I took off both of those mufflers at the back, mines straight through from the resonator to the exhaust, no muffler at all. Put a 2.5" exhaust tip on it and she purrs beautifully.

I want to do either SRI or CAI (can't decide) but can only find parts for the 1.4L turbo. The engine bays look practically identical. Can I use the same parts, like an Injen cold air intake or a K&N Short Ram or anything or the like?

Get on to the Holden Cruze page on Facebook and you can get some good advice on mods. A friend of mine had a BNR tune on his 14 SRI-V and had over 220hp. He has since bought a Focus ST, but I think he is still a BNR agent in Sydney.

 

[Nathan of Aus.]

Have a look at parts for the new 1.6T Astra's. Should be plenty of mods for them in the UK.

 

[Allynic]

Guys,

I have looked for the spark plug gap for Iridium spark plugs for the MY14 with 1.6T engine (with no mods) but cant find it anywhere. I have a P0303 code and want to check the gap and swap plugs about to rule out spark plug problem. Does anyone have the info.

 

[Nathan of Aus.]

Not sure if anyone in Aus still checks in here, but has anyone ever done the manual oil transmission swap that the US guys recommend to help out with gears grinding when changing quickly, but on our 1.6T drive-train? I can't remember if we share the same manual transmission (my memory tells me yes but want to be sure).

Also does anyone know where to get some cheap parts to mess around with like cheapo intake kits & mufflers etc. to play with before I sell it in the next year or two? Aside from tuning kits everything seems to be aimed at the 1.4T.

Thanks.

 

[Aussie]

Not sure if anyone in Aus still checks in here, but has anyone ever done the manual oil transmission swap that the US guys recommend to help out with gears grinding when changing quickly, but on our 1.6T drive-train? I can't remember if we share the same manual transmission (my memory tells me yes but want to be sure).

Also does anyone know where to get some cheap parts to mess around with like cheapo intake kits & mufflers etc. to play with before I sell it in the next year or two? Aside from tuning kits everything seems to be aimed at the 1.4T.

Thanks.

Hi Nathan, if you join this group you should be able to get the information you need. There are also a number of members in WA. As I am a moderator joining won't be a problem. We are heading toward 3,000 members, many of whom have the 1.6T including my daughter with a 2015 SRI-V hatchback manual.

https://www.facebook.com/groups/HoldenCruze/permalink/10157177262712943/

 

[Nathan of Aus.]

Hi Nathan, if you join this group you should be able to get the information you need. There are also a number of members in WA. As I am a moderator joining won't be a problem. We are heading toward 3,000 members, many of whom have the 1.6T including my daughter with a 2015 SRI-V hatchback manual.

https://www.facebook.com/groups/HoldenCruze/permalink/10157177262712943/

Thanks Aussie. I've put in a request to join. Cheers.

 

[AndyTren]

A friend of mine in Sydney has just had his 1.6T hatch tuned by BNR in the last few days and has 160kw and around 190nm of torque. This is so far the only 1.6T Jerry has tuned.

Nice up to 160kw! how come? same my Sri-V.

 

[Aussie]

Nice up to 160kw! how come? same my Sri-V.

That is a really old post and he now owns a Ford Focus RS with 255kw. Standard is 132kw for a 1.6T.