maybe ground battery wire bad? & I'm sure you disconnect the battery for 10 mins already. that's all I got sorry
1.8L W/Service Stabilitrak & Traction Control, Flashing CEL, rough idle, etc. Help!
1.8L W/Service Stabilitrak & Traction Control, Flashing CEL, rough idle, etc. Help!
Got off work one day, hopped in, started my baby up, and she started all these crazy symptoms. I limped her home and parked her. Replaced the valve cover assembly and spark plugs, put her all back together, started her up... Same problem. Ran codes, got codes U0100 & P0304. Thought maybe I hadn't gapped spark plugs properly. Pulled them back out, checked the gap, .028. Ran codes, got the same result. Cleared those codes, I get a permanent P0300. Engine runs fine after ignition for about 30 seconds, then I get the service stabilitrak/tcs, and cel flashing-- engine starts rough idling. Checked all the lines, etc. Replaced the intake cam sensor... Replaced the champion spark plugs I just installed with AC Delco 41-122s, put it all back together. Same results.
The initial codes are U0100 and P0304. Once I clear those, I get P0300. I'm stumped. Faulty coil maybe?
Got off work one day, hopped in, started my baby up, and she started all these crazy symptoms. I limped her home and parked her. Replaced the valve cover assembly and spark plugs, put her all back together, started her up... Same problem. Ran codes, got codes U0100 & P0304. Thought maybe I hadn't gapped spark plugs properly. Pulled them back out, checked the gap, .028. Ran codes, got the same result. Cleared those codes, I get a permanent P0300. Engine runs fine after ignition for about 30 seconds, then I get the service stabilitrak/tcs, and cel flashing-- engine starts rough idling. Checked all the lines, etc. Replaced the intake cam sensor... Replaced the champion spark plugs I just installed with AC Delco 41-122s, put it all back together. Same results.
The initial codes are U0100 and P0304. Once I clear those, I get P0300. I'm stumped. Faulty coil maybe?
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I disconnect as a precaution every time I work on it... Didn't think that actually worked on newer cars :uhh:
Look and make sure you didn't hit and wire they maybe lose ( I've done it:flushedI disconnect as a precaution every time I work on it... Didn't think that actually worked on newer cars![]()
I have inspected every hose and connection I can see under the hood-- made sure every pigtail was secure, no exposed or damaged wiring so far as I can tell-- and no more leaks since I replaced the valve cover. *Sigh*Look and make sure you didn't hit and wire they maybe lose ( I've done it:flushed
So I removed both ECM fuses for a few minutes, put them back and started the engine. Ran okay for about 30 seconds, then bogged down to a rough idle and lights come back on again. I pulled the codes and it just says P0304 now..... how do I test to verify if the coil is the problem?
Does the coil boot have a spring in it ?So I removed both ECM fuses for a few minutes, put them back and started the engine. Ran okay for about 30 seconds, then bogged down to a rough idle and lights come back on again. I pulled the codes and it just says P0304 now..... how do I test to verify if the coil is the problem?
Or is it all in one
Hi, I had the same issue with my 1.8 I4 LT '09 last friday without the dropping revs. Suddenly the car jerks and the stabilitrak and abs lights on and the check engine flashing. Also the car seemed to have lost power and was reluctant accelerating from traffic light but also whilst driving, last but not least the engine was sounding rough. My trusty mechanic diagnosed it to faulty ignition coil and a spark plug change.
My 2013 Chevy Cruze LS 1.8L started doing the same thing after I change the thermostat and thermostat housing.. My car was overheating found out thermostat was stuck shut and the housing was cracked.. Ran great for a few days but it started with the Engine light flash, rough idle, service traction control and stabiliTatlr light came on.. changed spark plugs good again for 3days then it started again same light and everything changed the coil run good for 2days .. but again it started doing it all over a again. This time we noticed that the coil in cylinder 1 was melted a burnt thought it was just a faulty coil pack so replaced it..this time I only back it maybe 30 mine and again but this time it blow a fuse so the car shutdown won't start up... It burnt the coils again so after burning 2 coils I took it to the Garage told me it the PCM I ordered one I installed it myself and then I had it towed to the deal to get programmed.. install them myself due to the fact that it wasn't that hard and a lot cheaper than the dealer would have wanted the dealer told me that it was programmed but wont start due there was a bad connection on the connector on the main computer which is to PCM changed it still won't start.. dealer is a mean of old man won't answer any of questions hangs up on me .... He told me to come get my money and don't call him again so that's how many computers and not programmed I put my old one in my ppl amd if still coming I have no communication with the ECM so if you find the problem can you please post it ..
I have all of the same issues and I have a 2013 Cruze as well. I also was having Overheating issues and just replaced the coolant outlet the hoses the thermostat housing both sensors and the radiator fan. Also had the oil changed. Driving home from the dealership that overcharged me and did diagnostics all of these other issues began. I’m pissed to say the least but do not know how to fix myself and do not want to throw money at the dealership without knowing what needs done to fix the issue or they will bankrupt me…My 2013 Chevy Cruze LS 1.8L started doing the same thing after I change the thermostat and thermostat housing.. My car was overheating found out thermostat was stuck shut and the housing was cracked.. Ran great for a few days but it started with the Engine light flash, rough idle, service traction control and stabiliTatlr light came on.. changed spark plugs good again for 3days then it started again same light and everything changed the coil run good for 2days .. but again it started doing it all over a again. This time we noticed that the coil in cylinder 1 was melted a burnt thought it was just a faulty coil pack so replaced it..this time I only back it maybe 30 mine and again but this time it blow a fuse so the car shutdown won't start up... It burnt the coils again so after burning 2 coils I took it to the Garage told me it the PCM I ordered one I installed it myself and then I had it towed to the deal to get programmed.. install them myself due to the fact that it wasn't that hard and a lot cheaper than the dealer would have wanted the dealer told me that it was programmed but wont start due there was a bad connection on the connector on the main computer which is to PCM changed it still won't start.. dealer is a mean of old man won't answer any of questions hangs up on me .... He told me to come get my money and don't call him again so that's how many computers and not programmed I put my old one in my ppl amd if still coming I have no communication with the ECM so if you find the problem can you please post it ..
Few tips -
When getting work done on cars, I know it sucks if you have to take time off work, but you should be asking them do you guarantee the fix. MANY places just use the technique called "parts cannon" where they sell you a lot of parts and labor without much if any diagnosis into the root issue. There would be very little cases where all these things go wrong at the same time. True root cause analysis is something very few places do well anymore.
The other thing to do is to get multiple quotes. Again, if you have to tow your car in, this option sucks.
But eventually by doing this job of asking them to guarantee fixes and getting multiple quotes - you'll develop a sense of what shops in your area are good and which ones are bad. Also, use Google reviews on shops and only go places that have like a 4.5 or higher.
When getting work done on cars, I know it sucks if you have to take time off work, but you should be asking them do you guarantee the fix. MANY places just use the technique called "parts cannon" where they sell you a lot of parts and labor without much if any diagnosis into the root issue. There would be very little cases where all these things go wrong at the same time. True root cause analysis is something very few places do well anymore.
The other thing to do is to get multiple quotes. Again, if you have to tow your car in, this option sucks.
But eventually by doing this job of asking them to guarantee fixes and getting multiple quotes - you'll develop a sense of what shops in your area are good and which ones are bad. Also, use Google reviews on shops and only go places that have like a 4.5 or higher.
there is no test for our coil pack due to the design. There are multiple mosfet transistors wired in series along the assembly. Best solution is to buy a coil pack assembly and see if it fixes your rough idle. If nothing changes return the coil pack 😆. Code u0100 is a communications error and can be many different things.So I removed both ECM fuses for a few minutes, put them back and started the engine. Ran okay for about 30 seconds, then bogged down to a rough idle and lights come back on again. I pulled the codes and it just says P0304 now..... how do I test to verify if the coil is the problem?
1 - 13 of 13 Posts
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