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120k 2.0 engine failure

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Well the Cruze had been a good car owned it 4 years now very little issues and yesterday with very little warning the rod decided to come out of the block. 😳 will be looking for a new motor to replace this one.
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Discussion Starter · #21 ·
Well i got the car running yesterday and it threw a crankshaft position code p0336. Gotta do some troubleshooting to see if it’s a bad sensor or wiring. Where is the crank sensor located on these engines anybody know off hand. I also had the fuel line blow off and shoot diesel everywhere… oops it’s missing the blue retainer clip where it plugs into the high pressure pump now have to source one of those too.
 

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Discussion Starter · #22 ·
Well after replacing a few odds and ends i ended up getting the car out and about today let it idle in the driveway for about 2 hours then took it down the highway and everything worked good. I had so much burn off i actually pulled over to make sure i wasn’t leaking anything but all looked good. I have to button a few more things up and put some splash guards and heat shields on and then it’s back to my daily driver. The hardest part about the whole swap was getting the passenger cv shaft carrier unbolted from the back of the block and there was a wire harness i shoulda transferred over to new motor before i dropped it in. (Took two people to get it plugged in) other then that it was a pretty straight forward deal.
 

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One goes to turbo actuator solenoid, the middle one has a cap, and the other one has a super short hose on it that goes to that part with the electrical connector with the red lock on it. The end, not the top.


Sent from my SM-G781V using Tapatalk
 

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Discussion Starter · #26 ·
Thanks after looking where you described it looks like when i took the motor out i sheared off a plastic tube where that hose plugs in no wonder why i couldn’t find where it plugs in. Thanks again for your time.
 

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Discussion Starter · #27 ·
Well after 250 problem free miles everything is back to normal. I will look into doing the oil pump seal. All i have left is to put splash shields back on underneath after i change the fuel filter. Thanks for the pictures. They helped a lot.
 

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Discussion Starter · #28 ·
Well i now have been driving it and have gone over 130k the only issue i have had is i forgot to tighten the ac compressor bolts and the bolts sheared off and belt came off…. My fault other then that I’m back to racking up miles on it. The engine came with a 2 year warranty from the junkyard unlimited miles. So I’m definitely glad i fixed it now that the fuel prices going back through the roof.😡
 

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I have a 2015 cruze 2.0 turbo diesel. I'm at 120k timing belt replaced at 105k. Serviced early it while life. Taking good care of.
Yesterday morning as soon as I got on Interstate lost all power. Bearly made it to the next exit. 1 mile away. Replaced fuel filter and started it. Ran terrible shut off fast. Being towed to dealership now. My buddy a heavy equipment mechanic 10 plus years. Thi KS the motor is blown
Any guesses or suggestions much appreciated.
 

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2014 Cruze Diesel, 2007 Cobalt, 1981 Camaro Z28, 2017 Volt
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Sounds like you blew one of the charge pipes to me - super common for them to break and blow off while driving and do...exactly that.
 

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I have a 2015 cruze 2.0 turbo diesel. I'm at 120k timing belt replaced at 105k. Serviced early it while life. Taking good care of.
Yesterday morning as soon as I got on Interstate lost all power. Bearly made it to the next exit. 1 mile away. Replaced fuel filter and started it. Ran terrible shut off fast. Being towed to dealership now. My buddy a heavy equipment mechanic 10 plus years. Thi KS the motor is blown
Any guesses or suggestions much appreciated.
Like the other guy said, if it's not knocking it's probably the charge pipe which is a common failure item. You can get it replaced or use some zip ties to fasten it back down.

The GM part number is 95472182 and it's about $190 now, a 60% increase since I bought one 2 years ago.

If you like the car and want to keep it on the road, you should also do the oil pickup seal ASAP.
 

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Yea, pipe or possible stuck EGR valve. If it's stuck far enough open it will crank and start, run about 1 second while stumbling bad and then shut off. If it's only stuck a little way open it might actually run but it'll run like crap. May not throw a code, mine didn't.

Also consider replacing the oil cooler lines soon, they're made of a hard plastic that is probably getting brittle by this point and will eventually leak. Mine did that two days ago @ 142k. You can remove the brittle lines and replace them with 5/8 heater hose, you reuse the quick connect plastic ends as they have a barb fitting on them. Cheap fix that way. Or you can purchase all new lines, about $75 on amazon for both. P/N 55488382 and 55488381.
 

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Yea, pipe or possible stuck EGR valve. If it's stuck far enough open it will crank and start, run about 1 second while stumbling bad and then shut off. If it's only stuck a little way open it might actually run but it'll run like crap. May not throw a code, mine didn't.

Also consider replacing the oil cooler lines soon, they're made of a hard plastic that is probably getting brittle by this point and will eventually leak. Mine did that two days ago @ 142k. You can remove the brittle lines and replace them with 5/8 heater hose, you reuse the quick connect plastic ends as they have a barb fitting on them. Cheap fix that way. Or you can purchase all new lines, about $75 on amazon for both. P/N 55488382 and 55488381.
I think the heater hose will last longer - stock replacement lines will eventually do the same thing.
 
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· Reverend Red Bull
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Yea, pipe or possible stuck EGR valve. If it's stuck far enough open it will crank and start, run about 1 second while stumbling bad and then shut off. If it's only stuck a little way open it might actually run but it'll run like crap. May not throw a code, mine didn't.

Also consider replacing the oil cooler lines soon, they're made of a hard plastic that is probably getting brittle by this point and will eventually leak. Mine did that two days ago @ 142k. You can remove the brittle lines and replace them with 5/8 heater hose, you reuse the quick connect plastic ends as they have a barb fitting on them. Cheap fix that way. Or you can purchase all new lines, about $75 on amazon for both. P/N 55488382 and 55488381.
I discovered yesterday while looking for another part that the OEM oil cooler lines are actually available on Rockauto.com for only $22 each. They're hidden, though, since they're mis-classified under the "Heat and Air Conditioning" category as a "Heater Hose."
 

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I discovered yesterday while looking for another part that the OEM oil cooler lines are actually available on Rockauto.com for only $22 each. They're hidden, though, since they're mis-classified under the "Heat and Air Conditioning" category as a "Heater Hose."
For what it’s worth it’s probably GM’s fault. They constantly mislabel stuff. Especially on the 2.0L.

So if rockauto is based on the real catalog (parts supplier, AcDelco catalog, etc…) it would probably carry over the mistake.
 

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For what it’s worth it’s probably GM’s fault. They constantly mislabel stuff. Especially on the 2.0L.

So if rockauto is based on the real catalog (parts supplier, AcDelco catalog, etc…) it would probably carry over the mistake.
If I were to guess, it was that the engineer who created the part might've pulled a really weird part description/name...and then you end up with something like that. There are a lot of names...but not always the right ones.
 

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Like the other guy said, if it's not knocking it's probably the charge pipe which is a common failure item. You can get it replaced or use some zip ties to fasten it back down.

The GM part number is 95472182 and it's about $190 now, a 60% increase since I bought one 2 years ago.

If you like the car and want to keep it on the road, you should also do the oil pickup seal ASAP.
Just curious, what breaks on these?
 
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