Chevrolet Cruze Forums banner

1 - 20 of 26 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
8 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hello, new to this forum. My son has a '14 Cruze LS (auto, 1.8L) that he's had since new. Tonight he gets home from work, turns the ignition key off, but the engine won't shut off. We tried shutting it off several times but it still wouldn't shut off. It drives fine and everything else, but the key wouldn't shut off the engine. We ended up unhooking the battery to shut the engine off. Can anyone advise what might be causing this? Thank you in advance.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
59 Posts
I'm sure you'll get a far better response, possibly the key is not fully switching the ignition off? You've probably already investigated that but that's my thought. Did you try reconnecting the battery and checking if it won't turn off again?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
8 Posts
Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Hey Nathan, thanks for the response. I did reconnect the battery three times and it still does the same thing. I have no idea what it can be, other than possibly a bad ignition switch. But I'm not up on the newer type vehicles (I drive an '88 Jeep YJ and a '74 HD, wifey had a '15 Camero). I'm pretty mechanically incline, but these newer vehicles are something else! :) I'll see if he has a spare key, maybe the key is bad? I have no idea.
Any other ideas would be greatly appreciated.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
8,003 Posts
Sounds like a bad ignition switch to me as everything else seems to be working ok. I can't think of any situations where the BCM would ignore a "engine off" command from the switch. Although, I suppose it could be a stuck ignition relay. That would be a far better way to turn it off (assuming the relay is one of the removable ones.)

Being a 2014, I'd think it would be under warranty. I'd get that to the dealer right away. Pulling the battery might be effective, but it risks damaging the electronics. So it's next trip should be to a dealer.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
8 Posts
Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Thanks ChevyGuy. I agree. I'll have him take her to the dealer tomorrow to see what they can figure out. I'll post back up to advise what they find. Thanks again.
 

·
Banned
Joined
·
10,296 Posts
If the LS is anything like the LT, my bet is that the ignition relay in the underhood fuse relay box has welded contacts, was born a POS anyway. Ignition switch doesn't have any loads on it whatsoever, just fires extremely low current commands to the BCM and PCM, calling the PCM an ECU now, Ford invented that term.

Its removable and look under the lid of that fuse relay box for the exact location. Mine went just the other way, a tiny bit of carbon from arcing wouldn't let my Cruze start period. Took me about two minutes to find the problem, seen so called techs take days to find problems like this, have about zero training in electrical and electronic knowledge. With OBD II over 120,000 electronic techs were supposed to be hired, this never happened.

For this old engineer, using point contact relays is positively stupid and this was well known since the time of Edison, have idiots designing this stuff today. Real ignition switch used sliding contacts, these stupid relays use a force of a couple of grams to release them. Pulling that relay would be the best way to stop this thing, disconnecting the battery that is the only filter for the alternator can generate high voltage spikes that has been known to complete wreck all the electronics in automotive.

I replaced my POS ignition relay almost made in China with a good Panasonic relay. But the best relays used to be made right here in the USA, even the Japanese was making crap, but a hail of a lot better than the Chinese. So you wonder why you are having problems, any engineer worth his salt knows this.

Ha, another way to stop an engine, and I can't even believe this, on this new crap for small engines, like a lawn mower or a snowthrower, no more shut off valves, no more tank drains. Tell you to run the engine until it runs out of gas. So help me, the idiots are taking over.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
8,003 Posts
Ha, another way to stop an engine, and I can't even believe this, on this new crap for small engines, like a lawn mower or a snowthrower, no more shut off valves, no more tank drains. Tell you to run the engine until it runs out of gas. So help me, the idiots are taking over.
I haven't looked at the Cruze that closely, but with my old car, you could squeeze the gas hose shut. It might take a pair of pliers, but it could be done.
 

·
Banned
Joined
·
10,296 Posts
With a manual could try to take off in sixth gear from idle.

With carb vehicles and the air cleaner off, just cup your hand over the air intake on the carb to kill the engine instantly. Could do this on the Cruze, but easiest to remove the hose from the air cleaner first. Just cup your hand over the hose. No air, no run. Then its safe to remove just the negative battery cable, so your battery is not discharged due to unable to shut the thing off. One discharge kills the battery capacity by about 60%, three times, stone dead. And can't buy these for twenty bucks anymore.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
8 Posts
Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Thanks for the replies. I looked at the Cruze this morning and we hooked everything back up (battery) and started her up. Went to turn it off and the engine wouldn't shut off. There is an "amp" (aftermarket) hooked directly to the battery (+ side), so I disconnected that and the engine shut off. We then left the amp disconnected, started the car, turned the key to "off" and the engine shut off like it should. Went to remove the key from the ignition, but the key would not come out. Turned the engine back on, shut it off (like it should) and the engine shut off. Went to take the key out of the ignition, but it wouldn't come out. Turned the key (not starting the engine) then turned the key back to off, then the key came out. Did this several times (starting the engine/shutting down the engine) and overtime the key would get stuck. Called the dealer and explained the issue. They said that they haven't had any problems like that before (bad ignitions), but it sounded to him that it is a faulty ignition switch. So, I went back out to start the car to test it a few more times, and the car worked just like it should (start engine, shut off engine, removed key with no problems). So now the car seems to be working fine, but we did not re-connect that aftermarket audio amp to be on the safe side. We'll give it a few days to see what happens, but my guess is that the ignition switch is the problem too. Of course the car isn't under warranty now (mileage), but according to the dealer it should cost about 250 to replace the ignition switch (if that's the problem). Then the dealer started saying that it could be something else too and he wouldn't know until he checked it out.....which I understand it needs to be looked into (troubleshooting).

Wish us luck! If things change, I'll make sure to post up here to let you all know. Thanks again...
 

·
Banned
Joined
·
10,296 Posts
Have no idea why the Cruze is still using that steering wheel lock, already proven years ago ineffective for preventing thief. But one of the key problems as to why you can't remove the key.

Not familiar with the Cruze automatic transmission if you even have one, but with other vehicles, if the gear shift lever was not fully in park or due to a minor linkage adjustment, couldn't remove the key either. 93 Olds was this way. You can try to jiggle the steering wheel and gear shift lever to see if this helps. Also make sure that slot in the key is clean, in my opinion, another stupid idea.

Was involved in this BS, retired now, People complained their vehicle jumped out of park and ran over their kids, this kind of stuff. Thank God they are not driving a manual transmission. So gear shift levers had to be locked. My grandkids play in my motorhome, but not concerned, wheels are blocked and the parking brake is on, takes a great deal of effort to release it.

Now, why is feedback from an audio amplifier keeping the ignition hot, wouldn't have guessed this in a million years. Have to see this to believe it. Unless Best Buy installed it, really seen some terrible work by so-called professional installers.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
8,003 Posts
There is an "amp" (aftermarket) hooked directly to the battery (+ side), so I disconnected that and the engine shut off. We then left the amp disconnected, started the car, turned the key to "off" and the engine shut off like it should.
Sounds like the amp was back feeding, power - probably via the sense circuit. So when the relay turned off, power was flowing though the amp. Either a error in the way it's wired, or something failed in the amp. Good thing you didn't take it to the dealer - that wouldn't have been covered by warranty.
 
  • Like
Reactions: spacedout

·
Registered
Joined
·
8 Posts
Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Car is starting/shutting off fine, but the key still gets stuck in the ignition. It worked fine for about a dozen tests (removing the key after starting/stoping the vehicle). In regard to the amp, it was installed a few months after he purchased the car (well over a year or two ago) and never had a problem before. It was installed by some audio shop too. But so far the car is running fine now, with the exception of the key getting stuck most of the time. The amp is still disconnected too. We'll fiddle around with the shifter and key a bit more to see if we get lucky. We're using both keys to make sure it isn't one of the keys also. Pretty stumped on this one??
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
8,003 Posts
The lock may be coincidental, or it might have been a result of some of the actions taken when the engine wouldn't shut off. At this point, with everything else cleared up, I'd have to say it's the lock.

As for the amp, it might be a pinched wire that shorted out or something that malfunctioned in the amp. Someone's going to to have to look at that.
 

·
Banned
Joined
·
10,296 Posts
Another trick is to spray some WD-40 in the key hole, not very much, just a quick one, and work the key in and out several times without turning it.

That brings about another question, does it work okay just pushing the key in and out. But sticks only when you rotate the key first then try to get it out?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,382 Posts
The Automatic Cruze has a technical bulletin about the key removal. This has to do with the wheel lock that Nick mentioned. If you take the wheel and slightly turn it while removing the key does it remove? I believe that was the suggestion by the bulletin.

Does he normally park with the wheels straight, or with the wheels turned?

I believe the ignition switch is actually only a $10-$15 part on Rockauto, and I think it's easily accessible by removing the clamshell pieces of the steering column directly behind the wheel. There's a top and bottom piece.

I remember looking at it years ago in the service manual when we were working on coolant smell leaks, and I was looking at procedures for removal of the heater core in the dash.
 

·
Chevrolet Customer Assistance Representative
Joined
·
5,722 Posts
Hello, new to this forum. My son has a '14 Cruze LS (auto, 1.8L) that he's had since new. Tonight he gets home from work, turns the ignition key off, but the engine won't shut off. We tried shutting it off several times but it still wouldn't shut off. It drives fine and everything else, but the key wouldn't shut off the engine. We ended up unhooking the battery to shut the engine off. Can anyone advise what might be causing this? Thank you in advance.

Welcome to the forum, samzcruze! I'm sorry to hear of the recent issue your son experienced in his Cruze. If you're thinking you'd like to have a certified technician take a look, we'd be more than happy to get that process started and review his situation further. We're available via private message and only need his VIN, mileage, contact information, and preferred dealership to move forward. Thank you for your time and we look forward to hearing from you.

Kind regards,

Jasmine
Chevrolet Customer Care
 

·
Banned
Joined
·
10,296 Posts
In checking the vehicle wiring harness to the power antenna on my 88 Supra, is one lead that comes from the ECU ignition relay. What the heck is that there for? No receiving wire on the power antenna connector.

Was some engineer thinking if the ignition relay was defective, raising the power antenna would start the car?

When I was having problems starting my Cruze, would crank but would not start. Just got out, locked the doors, Waited a few minutes, then tried it again. Called rebooting and figured it was the ignition relay. Rather than panic, this time it started and got me home. But I was wondering if GM contracted Microsoft for the firmware, Been rebooting Microsoft crap for years.

I just replaced that cheap Made in China with a good Panasonic one, so confident I will not have this problem again.

Wondering if you audio installer is fooling around with the ignition circuit for your Cruze. Has nothing to do with the audio system, strictly BCM stuff. Can even turn the darn radio on with the keys in your pocket. But will only play for ten minutes, why didn't I think about this when I was engineering. Could be because I don't smoke crack.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
8 Posts
Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Hey everyone...I know it's been a couple months since I initially posted this issue. My son's Cruse was working okay, although the key would still get stuck when he would drive it. This has been happening everyday since my original post (April). We've left the amp disconnected because if we hook it up, and turn the key off after starting the car, the car engine will not turn off with the key removed. We ended up taking it to the dealer here in Avondale, Arizona last week. We had to get the front wheel bearings/hubs replaced. Since it was there, we told them about the ignition problem. They fixed the bearings/hubs and said they "cleaned" the ingestion switch (where the key goes in) and it seemed to have fixed the problem. Well my son picked up his car and drove it home (with the amp still disconnected). When he got home, he went to remove the key and guess what? The key wouldn't come out! My son called the dealer and spoke to the maintenance foreman and explained the problem again and told him that they told him it was fixed. This guy tells him to bring it back and they would clean it again. If that didn't work, they would replace the ignition switch and it would be about 150 bucks out the door. My son calls the dealer/shop back to get his car dropped off and this time the same "foreman" tells him that his guys (mechanics) aren't experts with the electrical system and that he (my son) should take the care to an electrical expert. My son tells him that he's bringing it to them since they're the dealer where he bought the car. They guy tells my son, "We're not Chevrolet, we just work here." WTF!!! So now these idiots don't even want to look at his car. They said that if he brought it back, all they would do is "clean" the switch again. These guys are idiots, and absolutely have no loyalty to the customer! I'm beyond pi$$ed. I'm pretty good at working on our own vehicles (I'm actually restoring my '60 Chevy C10 right now and I was a mechanic in the Army years ago), but when it comes to these newer cars, I'm almost lost because all the electrical stuff in them. Oh yea, the foreman even said that they can't scan the vehicle for any codes because there isn't a way to do that. I thought the OBII scanner could do this....I don't know?

Sorry for the venting, but I'm at my wits end. So now (so far) the plan is to see about replacing the ignition switch myself (the part where the key goes in) to see it that helps. We double checked the wiring on the stereo and everything is correctly wired. Plus he's had that same stereo system in that same vehicle since two weeks after he bought the car back in 2013 (it's a 2014 Cruse). He has never had any problems with this car or the stereo system in all these years/months since he had it professionally installed from a stereo shop. I'm thinking that something in the ignition system has failed or is failing when there is an extra load (stereo amp), because it runs just fine when the amp is disconnected.....and it was working fine for over two years. I have no idea where to find info on how to replace the ignition switch or how to replace/troubleshoot the starting system. If anyone here can point us in the right direction, I'd be extremely grateful. I've searched the web for days and have not found anything that shows me how to or where to get into on replacing/troubleshooting this.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
5,639 Posts
So everything was ok, aside from the Key sticking daily? That doesn't sound right to me. Did you ever follow up with the G.M. Rep's reply to you?
 
1 - 20 of 26 Posts
Top