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14 Gen 1 2.0L TD LUZ Coolant leak

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Not sure but I think the thermostat housing is cracked. Car has 39000 miles. I am the original owner. Is this a common issue? Anybody replaced theirs if so. Where is it located and how difficult replacing it.
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Not common in the diesel I believe, unlike the gas engines. The only coolant leak I've had on mine was the oil cooler lines on the back of the engine. They are hard plastic that get brittle over time and will crack. Fill the coolant and run the engine. Look around the back of the engine for a leak, mine was shooting a small stream of coolant from one of the lines to the side of the block.
 

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Not sure but I think the thermostat housing is cracked. Car has 39000 miles. I am the original owner. Is this a common issue? Anybody replaced theirs if so. Where is it located and how difficult replacing it.
Why do you think the thermostat housing is cracked without knowing where it is?

I'd do a really good inspection of the entire engine bay and I'd start passenger side about where the water pump is for starters.

If you have a black light that helps a ton to find coolant.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Why do you think the thermostat housing is cracked without knowing where it is?

I'd do a really good inspection of the entire engine bay and I'd start passenger side about where the water pump is for starters.

If you have a black light that helps a ton to find coolant
it was the water pump. $600.00 done in one day
 

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Did you have any pictures of the leak? Or were you just smelling coolant?

We've got a leak somewhere, but I believe it to be either the EGR cooler or the oil cooler. I'm leaning towards the former since that's where I was seeing coolant when doing the oil pump pickup seal. I...really don't feel like dealing with it, so I'll probably just take it to the dealer for that one. Might just have them replace the lines too, since those are the ones (I think?) that are known for just...exploding.

It doesn't look all that awful to do (and honestly I'd just save the coolant and reuse since it was put into the car in November of last year when the radiator was replaced), but after the oil seal...meh.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
you did the timing belt and accessories at the same time, right?

RIGHT?
no did not do T-belt. just the water pump. We pressure tested it. Saw the coolant leak from weep hole. Car just turned 39000 miles. It’s my wife’s driver. She only drives it to Church on Sunday. No really only to church on Sunday. She had a brain tumor. After the surgery the sat for four years. It is in mint condition. I replaced the the tires as they were original. We have three cars and a dodge diesel. I drive all of the others. We only put 700 miles on the car last year. It will be fifteen years before it has 50000 on it. By then will sell it as she probably won’t be driving much longer. Or sell it and get an all electric SUV.
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no did not do T-belt. just the water pump. We pressure tested it. Saw the coolant leak from weep hole. Car just turned 39000 miles. It’s my wife’s driver. She only drives it to Church on Sunday. No really only to church on Sunday. She had a brain tumor. After the surgery the sat for four years. It is in mint condition. I replaced the the tires as they were original. We have three cars and a dodge diesel. I drive all of the others. We only put 700 miles on the car last year. It will be fifteen years before it has 50000 on it. By then will sell it as she probably won’t be driving much longer. Or sell it and get an all electric SUV. View attachment 299623 View attachment 299624
it would have cost ~$100 more and maybe 5 mins longer to not have the valves come thru the pistons when the TB breaks
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
it would have cost ~$100 more and maybe 5 mins longer to not have the valves come thru the pistons when the TB breaks
I’ll sell it to you for 18,000.00 I guarantee it is in mint condition. Has factory Nav and blind spot alert. I have the owner’s manual and window sticker. Was purchased new on Xmas eve 2014. The DEF tank and heater was replaced under warranty an 25,000 miles. Have title in hand. Paid for it in cash when it was two years old. Then you can replace the Timing belt. I give you a new with the car. I work at an auto parts store. Cost me $25.00 for a Gates
 

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Aside from maybe age, I'm not sure the car was really ready for a timing belt change at that point. That said, you basically had to pull it off to swap the water pump, so maybe it wouldn't have been the worst idea. Hopefully you (or the dealer) took a peak at the belt to make sure it didn't look dry-rotted or anything?
 
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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
I asked and was told it didn’t need it. So we left it alone. They also said they didn’t remove the belt when they did the water pump. Every thing I’ve read said to pull the belt to do the water pump. But I wasn’t there. So IDK.
 

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I asked and was told it didn’t need it. So we left it alone. They also said they didn’t remove the belt when they did the water pump. Every thing I’ve read said to pull the belt to do the water pump. But I wasn’t there. So IDK.
Just the water pump should be completely fine. I understand the argument to replace it due to the fact that you have access to it. But frankly, finding belt tensioners have been difficult to locate anyway. The shop had to have taken the belt off of the pump, but may not have completely removed it and kept it in place as far as cam and crank pulleys go. all said, glad you got her up and running.
 

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Not sure but I think the thermostat housing is cracked. Car has 39000 miles. I am the original owner. Is this a common issue? Anybody replaced theirs if so. Where is it located and how difficult replacing it.
Had to replace my thermostat 2014 CTD, kept throwing a code related to low coolant temperature. Got new part at dealer about $100. It's located on side of engine under the throttle body area on my 2.0L diesel. Wasn't that difficult to replace.
 
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