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Discussion Starter #1
Purchased this back in 2017 for $900 with 67k miles on the clock and some rusted through rear brake lines, but in running condition.

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Tires were dry rotted. Picked up some new shoes for $125 of craigslist that have the chrome falling off. Will be refinishing these sometime.
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Although the exterior looks great... cancer was starting at the door bottoms... the search began for parts.

Replaced the radiator as it seemed plugged. Found several missing bolts/studs on the exhaust manifold. Stock these cars have no intercooler or blow off valve...

Ebay to the rescue with a greddgy RS knockoff BOV and a decent sized intercooler...

Repaired the broken brake lines and hacked up the stock pipe to fit the new BOV. Now I have a driver... but it's only making 3-4 lbs with the hammer down. Something else is wrong, but she drives. Stock cat is fragged and the rear section of the exhaust has been repaired with crush bent sections.

Out came the trusty Porter Cable recipient saw. Now a Jones FloPack exits through a turn down just before the gas tank. Sounds great, but still only 3-4lbs...
 

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Removing the intake housing of the turbo revealed that the bearings were all but locked up... so I doubt I was achieving full rpm out of the turbo. Ebay GT2863RS to the rescue....
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After removal I spied the cause of the turbos demise... the oil feed line developed a leak at a factory crimp and probably was not lubricating the center as it was to busy leaking on the head and block.
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The aluminum head was caked in oil as was the block... time for lots of elbow grease and simple green.
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It's clean!
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Fresh paint
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Sandblasted and hi heat paint.
 

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Searching for a mouse that had decided to become a resident... found the little bugger dead with a nest of insulation underneath the dash directly behind the steering wheel. Nest was the size of a small basketball, but he has been permanently removed... so put the car up on Jack stands and started on the body and interior.
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Mouse incurred damage to knock sensor wiring and a few others... this is below the intake manifold , so this is gonna be fun to fix.

Finding the extent of the cancer...
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Well have some metal work to do, but the tape line represents the paint line... going the hot rod route with just repainting in black below the tape line... what started off as some brake lines is now full on restore...
 

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Removed the a/c compressor and condenser to allow for the room needed for the gt28 and for the charge pipes to pass through to where FMIC is going to be.
3d printed some gauge pods for the bird
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2014 Cruze Diesel, 2007 Cobalt, 1981 Camaro Z28, 2017 Volt
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That is not something you see people put time and money into restoring - kudos for you doing just that!

That thing should move pretty good, too, given it weighs about nothing.

My buddy had a '94 throughout high school - nothing special, just a red 5-speed car, but it was easily identifiable as his. The cowl seal used to leak real bad, so the footwells would fill up with water - which would then freeze in the winter.
 

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A friend if mine had the one owned by ned southwick. It was a beast... 13.4 on 15psi with me driving. It was capable of 23psi but he blew it up running crap gas through it and warped the head. I haven't touched this in a few months, but will probably get back to it soon... 165hp 175lbft factory 7-10 psi from the factory. Same ecu as the cyclone and typhoon trucks.

I have all new shocks and struts. I might drop it:cool:
Some Ebay strut bars that don't fit.
Charge pipes to make.
Lots of body work.
New braided lines for the turbo.
Fuel filter...
Without a tune it will probably gain 20-25 easily because they ran pig rich.
 

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2014 Cruze Diesel, 2007 Cobalt, 1981 Camaro Z28, 2017 Volt
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Yeah, I think an inch or two drop will look good, given the larger wheels.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Well thanks to China... I've had lots of free time and ventured back over to my old place for a few hours to see what I could get done.
Somewhere down the line I never ordered all the fittings for the new lines. So attaching them to the turbo before install was not going to be an option. I still proceeded with the clicking of the center section for a test fitting procedure. The C clips on the compressor housing is a bad mamma-jamma.
It was determined that removal of the AC compressor and associated brackets where necessary to facilitate where the intake would feed the turbo, as well provide clearance for the compressor housing. The turbo ONLY fits coming up from the bottom.
It looked early on that a boss on the block was not going to all the turbo to seat against the manifold flange, so a 3/4" spacer was sourced to give about 1/2" clearance. To bolt the turbo to the manifold I got some studs from do-it best.

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It fits!!! Yay!
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Maybe 3/8" to the radiator... I may have to mill the spacer down by some or remove it and see if will fit without.
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Not a lot of room but a 3" silicone elbow just fits.
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View of the oil drain path...
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Compressor outlet points down and will exit right next to the radiator on the left. The intake side will go up in to the cavity where the stock air cleaner sat.
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Rough area where the ic will mount, except it will be about 4" out. Inlet pipe should be under 18":
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Shot from the front bumper support.

Got a small shopping list for for fittings, amp kit, and front speakers. Re assembled some of the interior and cleaned mouse remnants off as I went.
 

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2012 Chevy Cruze 1.8 (soon to be 1.8t) LS... white
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Looking awesome! You're doing a great job. That cast manifold isn't too far off from what I'm making for the Cruze lol.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Log manifolds do the job. They may not flow the best,but they work.
Did you buy your turbo from maxspeedinrods on eBay. The water fitting threads weren't listed right... and I'm having to buy another round of fittings.
3D Printed a bunch of Male threads in different metric and NPT so I only buy the right thing.
Amp kit came in today so I can get the deck back together I still need to replace the rest of the cluster lights with leds and get them polarized right. Will be installing a way component set sourced from parts express and run off the pioneer deck with active crossover points.

Dash speaker replacement
This will be active high pass at 200hz

Kick panel woofer
This will be active low pass at 1500hz

Subwoofers are 3 10" MTX Road thunder .67 ohm coils wires in series on a Crossfire C3 501D. 375w @ 2ohms. In a slot ported enclosure tuned at 35hz.
 
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