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Discussion Starter #1
Hey guys,

I've read up on the first cruzes to often have heat radiating from the bottom center console.
It appears most when cruising fast on the highway.
While great in the winter, in the summer over here, it's excruciating.

I read in a forum (now lost to me) that a simple treatment spray painting heat insulating paint on the exhaust pipe and bottom body panels should do the trick.
Is this correct?
Is there a simple way to reduce heat from entering in my cabin?

My airco has trouble keeping up at temps above 86F, and every reduction in cabin heat is a great help!
 

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Get some pipe insulator that you can wrap around pipes. Then you can pop off the driver's side kick plate and wrap the insulation around the exposed pipes. I'd also tape it to the inside of the kick plate. There are also pipes on the passenger side that you can wrap with insulation. Basically this is the difference between the 2011 and 2012 center consoles.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Is there a youtube vid explaining how to do it?
What insulation material are you recommending? Rock/glass wool?

I'm not sure what the correct procedures are to wrap around the exhaust pipe correctly...
 

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It's not the exhaust. It's the heater core pipes by the driver's leg.

Rubber/foam pipe insulation like you use on a heat pump or water heater or something like that would do the trick.
 

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That panel comes off pretty easily and get yourself some insulation to help protect your leg. Yes, same issue with my 2011 Cruze and unfortunately the heater core is right there slamming out heat all the fricken time. Wost design I have ever experienced in a vehicle for HVAC.
 

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Do you glue it, or just stuff insulation in there?
How do you remove the panel?
If you get the pipe insulation from Home Depot*, the foam has adhesive strip to close it. If not tape can work.

it looks like this but not sure this the size you need. I've only taken the passenger side off for the A/C drain line. I pried from the side closes to the seat and gently feel my way around where resistance is strong and assumed it was a pop it. I had pics but PhotoBucket doesn't like me between 1 AM to about 4 AM EST. When it lets me I'll revisit here.


Everbilt 3/4 in. x 6 ft. Foam Self Seal Pipe Insulation-ORS07812 - The Home Depot
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Ok, so I found the pipes, and think the pipe insulation is a great idea.
I just have to find a way to pry open the plastic.

I have one question though.
If the heat can't get into the cabin anymore, means it stays in the heatercore tubes,
Will that mean that my engine will run hotter?
Or my AC won't cool down as much anymore?

I know insulating them will help cool down the cabin, which already barely gets cooled down.

Also, what are the temps the heater core pipes get?
I fear melting the foam?
 

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The engine will not run hotter, the thermostat will compensate for such a small change unless there is another issue.
Your AC should cool more/work less.
The highest they can get is approx 258 degrees f.
The foam should be fine at that temp.

Another option that I used to use on my truck was to clamp the heater core lines in the engine bay during the summer to stop the heater core from warming up. That car use to leak the hot air into the cabin pretty bad. I got a clamp that looked sort of like a pair of pliers and it could clamp both lines at once.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
The engine will not run hotter, the thermostat will compensate for such a small change unless there is another issue.
Your AC should cool more/work less.
The highest they can get is approx 258 degrees f.
The foam should be fine at that temp.

Another option that I used to use on my truck was to clamp the heater core lines in the engine bay during the summer to stop the heater core from warming up. That car use to leak the hot air into the cabin pretty bad. I got a clamp that looked sort of like a pair of pliers and it could clamp both lines at once.
Aren't they under pressure?

Since I live in Florida, and I really only need the heat about 1 out of 12 months, in the mornings, I might want to opt for this instead.
Can you give any guidelines on what the procedure is?

I suppose even with the heatercore clamped down, I can still heat the cabin with the electric heater elements?

Thank you!
 

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Aren't they under pressure?

Since I live in Florida, and I really only need the heat about 1 out of 12 months, in the mornings, I might want to opt for this instead.
Can you give any guidelines on what the procedure is?

I suppose even with the heatercore clamped down, I can still heat the cabin with the electric heater elements?

Thank you!
Gas engines don't have the electric heat, only diesel (they make very little waste heat).

The radiator is hugely over capacity for the 1.4. It can handle Florida; it can handle Arizona and Australia without issue. When it needs more cooling capacity, the thermostat kicks in the electric heater that melts the wax ring and voila, full cooling system capacity. You can actually watch that happen if your car has the digital temp display - engine temperature plummets rapidly when the engine is put under heavy load in the summer.
 

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Discussion Starter #13 (Edited)
All I know is that anything above 83F outside air, is not comfy in my Cruze; and above 93F the cruze is struggling to keep 75F inside.
That, and paired with the enormous heat soak in summer, causing a reduction in engine performance, I begged to differ.
Or, unless there's some setting not working well.
In my previous car, the thermostat was removed/bypassed.
 

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All I know is that anything above 83F outside air, is not comfy in my Cruze; and above 93F the cruze is struggling to keep 75F inside.
That, and paired with the enormous heat soak in summer, causing a reduction in engine performance, I begged to differ.
Or, unless there's some setting not working well.
In my previous car, the thermostat was removed/bypassed.
Yeah, it's a small turbo engine with the intercooler sandwiched between the A/C condensor, and radiator. Nothing to do with the radiator not being able to handle the heat. That's why we recommend running 93 oct, switching plugs for the BKRs, and yeah...A/C isn't super awesome unless you're moving down the highway at a nice clip.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
In other words, you're admitting that it's all not getting enough cooling (because of being sandwiched)?
What good is the largest possible radiator that could fit the car, if it's blocked off?
 

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In other words, you're admitting that it's all not getting enough cooling (because of being sandwiched)?
What good is the largest possible radiator that could fit the car, if it's blocked off?
Air passes through all 3...when there's moving air...
 

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Discussion Starter #17
That doesn't explain the heat soak, on an interstate onramp.
The car definitely is moving, but seriously lacking in power.
Heck, even at 60MPH it doesn't accelerate at 100+F.

I'm beginning to wonder if it has anything to do with my 2011 eco version. I heard they had some sort of grill block off, to block off cooling to cause better aerodynamics. You think this could be part of the issue?
 

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That doesn't explain the heat soak, on an interstate onramp.
The car definitely is moving, but seriously lacking in power.
Heck, even at 60MPH it doesn't accelerate at 100+F.

I'm beginning to wonder if it has anything to do with my 2011 eco version. I heard they had some sort of grill block off, to block off cooling to cause better aerodynamics. You think this could be part of the issue?
It does if you've been sitting at a stoplight or driving in the city up until that point. Heat soak doesn't go away as soon as air starts moving...
 

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In other words, you're admitting that it's all not getting enough cooling (because of being sandwiched)?
What good is the largest possible radiator that could fit the car, if it's blocked off?
The car takes ages to heat up because the radiator is massive and turn the fan on high trying to defrost the windows faster causes the coolant to cool down even more. If you look at a 1.8 Civic the radiator is like half. Larger radiator in this car would be overkill.

The item that is being heat soaked is the Front Mount InterCooler. It's like GM wanted to mimic heat soak of a Subaru top mount setup in traffic minus the inter cooler sprayer system to cool it with liquid and air. In Gen 2, they didn't "sammich" it in between 2 heat generating objects.
 

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For the center panel heat, I got some pipe insulation from home depot. It worked perfectly. I don't feel the heat at all anymore. Previously, it felt like the heater was blowing on my right foot even when the AC was on. I even burned by finger once when I stuck it in the little hole at the top of the side panel to pull it off. These should have been insulated from the factory.

For the heat soak part of this thread. I just live with it. But, it doesn't get that hot where I live, so it's not a big problem. There are some front mount intercoolers you could install. And there are some intercooler sprayers systems that you can build cheaply. Here is a good page with instructions for building your own sprayer. https://www.enginebasics.com/Advanced Engine Tuning/Intercooler Sprayers.html
 
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