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That is NOT the 2.0 LUZ DIESEL on your list.

LUZ engine IS interference.

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If you have that info. How about posting it.

I'm in agreement with OP.
Google isn't showing it.

Gates used to have a listing of all motors in production but that isn't popping up either. Yet.
 

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"This is also why nearly all diesel engines are interference engines—by their nature diesels are very high compression engines. " https://jalopnik.com/heres-what-interference-engines-are-and-why-they-exist-1823935549

Notes under the part listed on this site "Notes: Water Pump Kit with Seals -- Includes: Water Pump, Timing Belt, Camshaft Belt Tensioner, Camshaft Belt Idler, 2 Camshaft Seals, Crankshaft Seal, Pre-Assembly Seal Lubricant; Interference Engine; Remove Water Pump Pulley to replace Timing Belt "
 

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If you have that info. How about posting it.

I'm in agreement with OP.
Google isn't showing it.

Gates used to have a listing of all motors in production but that isn't popping up either. Yet.
I was on it as you posted, yes it IS a bit elusive doing a search, which is why there were at least 2 threads on that topic alone on this site. The 2.0 L on your list is a GM gas engine, note that any mention of Diesel on that list,, then it is interference. Your list also had the Chevette 1.6l, that means that is a list of older GM engines, Chevette's last year was about 1986 if I recall (had an '79 and '84 as my first cars). That 1.6l gasser was non-interference for sure, as I had a belt fail on me in the '84.
 

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Yes, the LUZ definitely is interference. I think we have a thread on here (or two) about people finding out exactly what happens when the belt snaps, or is timed improperly.
 

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I saw this in E-mail. Have you verified the pump yet? Looking at the diagram you should be able to do it at the relay fairly easy.

FYI i am not sure about Diesels but most gas fuel control modulus work on a pulse width system to control fuel pressure through a signal from the ECU.

If things check out I would back track through the work you recently did to see if it let the timing slip a tooth or two. If it did the engine would not fire but also would not always bend the valves.

Good luck!
 

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Discussion Starter #26
I saw this in E-mail. Have you verified the pump yet? Looking at the diagram you should be able to do it at the relay fairly easy.

FYI i am not sure about Diesels but most gas fuel control modulus work on a pulse width system to control fuel pressure through a signal from the ECU.

If things check out I would back track through the work you recently did to see if it let the timing slip a tooth or two. If it did the engine would not fire but also would not always bend the valves.

Good luck!
[/QUOTE

yes. when I did the timing belt a couple weeks ago I used the timing tools to position the cam and crank. It seemed that the old belt had slipped 2-3 teeth and I think I got lucky regarding the clash of pistons and valves. It ran just fine when I got everything buttoned back up.

Car was driven for a few days then it quit. The relay clicks when I turn the key to on. So I imagine the power is there to switch the pump on. I can't tell for sure without dropping he fuel tank. Of course the car was filled the day before it quit running so now I need to get the fuel out before I can drop it. That's where I'm at right now. I am pretty confident that I'm gonna have a dead pump but I don't understand why I don't have a code of some kind?? I'm not confident enough to have already ordered a new pump though, lol.
 

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Discussion Starter #27
Emptied fuel tank and pulled it out. I been trying to figure out if the pump has enough juice to run properly. I don't know what I'm doing. There is not 12 volts to the plug when the key is in on position. its a 4 wire plug and the purple or blue with has 3 volts. Has 3 volts whether the relay is in or not. There is a wider plug w like 7 conductors that plugs into the water separator and one wire there is sitting at 6-7 volts. I don't know which way the current flows or what the interplay is betwixt those components and the harness????????? My battery is sitting at 10 volts now, too after messing with it for a few days. (and the cooling fan went out in my charger so that just overheats and won't charge either. Eeeesh!)

My presumption is that when key is on system from the low pressure pump in the tank up to where it dumps into the high pressure pump should be pressurized.

Plano-Doug hooked me up with a link to Chilton's so maybe I can get some clues to the wiring there. If anyone has an idea how to verify that my pump is good or bad I'd be glad to try it.

I work long hours and can't get back to this for 3 days I'm gonna go ahead and order a new LPFP since I have everything out. I'll get a good charge on the battery in the mean time and try again in a few days.
 
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