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2.0 tearing up the track

2392 Views 16 Replies 6 Participants Last post by  170-3tree
So this Sunday I hit autocross. I had to wait for 3,000 miles to be sure the car was well broken in and comfortable; thus I missed 3 events and do not qualify for the championship. The car did very well in the turns with lots of body roll but very predictable and linear so it was easy to manage and keep in check during transitions. tires at 39 psi wore the shoulder perfect in the rear and front needs to be about 47 to not roll the tire under itself. steering was nice and quite good on feedback go figure.

Acceleration was strong in 1-3 gear. after practicing launching the best method I found was the following: 1. turn off stabile track and TCS 2. put it in D not 1ST 3.hold foot brake and build to 1,500 rpm 4. quickly let off the brake then smoothly drop to 90% throttle and once you feel power shorty give it WOT. this will more or less beat the GM anti take off without abusing the car to do so.

shifts after launch are done in manual mode. if left in D the moment you let off throttle it goes up a gear and is slow to down shift. imagine a class b rally car... you would have to go WOT 3 seonds before the corner to be in boost and in gear for the apex. in manual it holds the gear and is quite fast moving gears.

as you all imagined the LRR absolutely suck. they have low grip,low feedback, mushy. During my wet runs ( the guys on slicks would not dare run, enough water to get your socks soaked ) they shined with no hydroplane issues, great braking, and where eager to tell you there wet limit. need better tires although

Brakes.... wow I am amazed, this has to be the first production sedan that did not give brake fad and braking was superbly strong. soon enough hawk pads 5.0, ATE type 200 fluid, and centric plain rotors. I think with added ducting and the aforementioned brake set up the brakes will be fantastic. the GM brake assist only intervened 2 times l day

suspension. Shocks handled the bumps very well but as expected body roll was quite evident as was nose dive during hard braking. Springs where mushy and very comfort based. Car had a tad bit of under steer but over all very well balanced. when bumper to bumper is over (or tax season) I may go B14 coil over and white-line rear sway bar along with chassis bracing

here is the full run

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mUtXUgpOIAE
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That looked pretty good, I noticed a little wiggling near the end, looks like fun. Back in my car club days we used to do that sort of thing on dirt rather than hard surfaces.
 
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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
yah I pushed to hard at the end but sill managed to shave 1/2 sec improvement over the last lap. when it came to constancy I was 1.2 seconds variation run to run. that Cruze really could not go any faster mechanically. I wish rally cross was more popular here
 

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Nice video.
 

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This is me in action around 1972 on a dirt circuit. The car is a 1964 EH Holden 3.0L straight six well modded with a LSD and it is (was) RWD.

View attachment 163697 This is a grab from what was originally a super 8 movie, no sound though.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
that must have been fun days. I rallied my grandfathers old cooper, the tiny original not the bmw junk today and boy was that a blast
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
thanks. since I work at Chevy im wanting to see if the dealer will sponsor me lol. pay for tyres and help with maintenance and you can vinyl wrap the cruze
 

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The car I owned before the EH was a 997cc Mini Cooper. The EH was not only faster in a straight line, it was also faster in corners.
 

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I do like how the Cruze Diesel handles, and I enjoy driving my wife's a lot. It really likes brake and gas through tight turns, I've found. Gets it to rotate instead of pushing. One of the first rotaries I took it on (coincidentally on our way, last year, to look at our house that we ended up buying), I hit it real fast and walked the back end out - very linearly and controllable. My wife was terrified, but I was very happy with it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
its a very tame chassis with great balance. I did notice the rear walks just enough out to get the car pointed. what's rare is a fwd that points in the turn rather then barge in them. under steer is minimal even with lrr tires
 

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Which is why I'm on the fence about throwing a swaybar on the car. But if I were to upgrade the front swaybar, it would definitely need one out rear to counteract the understeer that would inevitably occur.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
I would try adding a rear and see how you like the balance, and if then you see you want a stiffer front toss it in. I want to keep the same balance and I know if I add b14's it will drastically help but the springs are supposed to keep the chassis off the floor and bump stops not primary duty of keeping body flat, but rather as a system.
 

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I'd love better struts/shocks on it (so, in the case of the Cruze - coilovers), but I cannot take any kind of a hit to ground clearance, with the snow we get in the winter, and all.
 
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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
well from reading the b14 set can be adjusted to very close to stock height. I would plan to keep it at stock height for better parking manors
 

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Glad to see others getting active in autocross. After this next season I plan on going to other events. I'm assuming you don't have the rear watts link? I do and I have had some interesting understeer. Might have finally got it to the best state possible without doing aftermarket parts.

I'd suggest that rear sway bar first. It will kill most body roll and knock off some more understeer. You actually want the front to be more flexible than the rear here.

If you want a better tire without changing wheels and don't mind a small hit to your mpgs, the continental truecontact or the bridgestone re97. I run the 970. It's good, but directional. The 97 comes in the 16" wheel fitment last time I checked.
 
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