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Baro / underboost codes suggest a boost leak - maybe outside of valve cover. The hose up to the throttle body works its way loose at the clamp, and sometimes deforms around the boost sensor on top of it too.

Haven't seen those cooling system codes around here, but sounds like you're on the right track.
 

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Discussion Starter #22
Baro / underboost codes suggest a boost leak - maybe outside of valve cover. The hose up to the throttle body works its way loose at the clamp, and sometimes deforms around the boost sensor on top of it too.

Haven't seen those cooling system codes around here, but sounds like you're on the right track.

That hose comes in the V3 PCV fix kit I think? I just ordered it earlier.
 

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Alright these are the codes I'm getting;

P2227, P2181, P0299, P0128, P0171.

Any insight would be greatly appreciated.
P0171 - Replace the valve cover to fix the P0171. You may also want to apply the rest of the fixes jblackburn suggested.
P0128, P2181 - Check your coolant levels and ensure the coolant in a cold tank is to the top rib of the surge/recapture tank. It may also be something else but this is a cheap and easy place to start.
P0299 - Check your oil levels and ensure they're between the low and high hash areas of the dip stick.
P2227 - ??? as I don't know if the Cruze has a barometric sensor

I'd also recommend getting the engine bay cleaned of all oil and dirt residue once you've replaced the valve cover and brought the coolant and oil into range. The Cruze doesn't consume much oil, but if you have a leak cleaning the engine bay will help identify this.

To diagnose a coolant leak, in addition to the general engine bay cleaning make sure the surge tank is cleaned as well. There are a few common leaks in the cooling system. The water pump, the water pump outlet, and the surge tank cap. You may still be under the water pump warranty (10 years/150,000 miles) so get that looked at quickly. If it's the tank cap then replacing the cap with a new one is a good place to start. The water pump outlet is unfortunately not under warranty for you but it's relatively easy for any mechanic to replace.
 

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Discussion Starter #25
P0171 - Replace the valve cover to fix the P0171. You may also want to apply the rest of the fixes jblackburn suggested.
P0128, P2181 - Check your coolant levels and ensure the coolant in a cold tank is to the top rib of the surge/recapture tank. It may also be something else but this is a cheap and easy place to start.
P0299 - Check your oil levels and ensure they're between the low and high hash areas of the dip stick.
P2227 - ??? as I don't know if the Cruze has a barometric sensor

I'd also recommend getting the engine bay cleaned of all oil and dirt residue once you've replaced the valve cover and brought the coolant and oil into range. The Cruze doesn't consume much oil, but if you have a leak cleaning the engine bay will help identify this.

To diagnose a coolant leak, in addition to the general engine bay cleaning make sure the surge tank is cleaned as well. There are a few common leaks in the cooling system. The water pump, the water pump outlet, and the surge tank cap. You may still be under the water pump warranty (10 years/150,000 miles) so get that looked at quickly. If it's the tank cap then replacing the cap with a new one is a good place to start. The water pump outlet is unfortunately not under warranty for you but it's relatively easy for any mechanic to replace.

I really appreciate this. I did turn my heater on today just to see if it was working and I noticed a loud-ish noise was coming from the engine bay. Could it be the water pump failing? As far as coolant and oil leaks, I am not consuming much oil at all really if any, and I have only had to top off my fluid resevoir a couple times in the last several months, it's not losing much coolant at all if any.. The heater was blowing hot air, though, it seemed kind of weak for summer time or maybe it just made it harder for me to tell how warm the air really was. I'm just waiting on my PCV valve fix kit in the mail hopefully it comes this week.. Then I'm going to replace valve covers and do the fix at the same time.
 

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Your dad and you are both correct. There are some PVC setups with diaphragms that will open to reduce the vacuum and draw in fresh air etc
 

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Discussion Starter #28 (Edited)
regarding the cooling temp codes...check the electrical connector for dirt and corrosion...had to do that to mine at 90,000
Which connectors?


I'm sorry I couldn't find this thread for a minute and started a new thread not realizing it hadn't been approved. I will continue here




UPDATE: I did PCV fix kit v3 and valve covers.. CAR IS RUNNING LIKE A TOP NOW... But other issues persist..

For the day after I had no issues at all, AC and heater felt like they were blowing like new... Then today at lunch, I was going home and I get the AC off high eng temp warning again...

I have replaced; radiator temp sensor, water outlet temp sensor, thermostat..

I am not losing any coolant, and if I am it is extremely minuscule..

Im debating whether to go ahead and change my water outlet valve and water pump... I am really hoping my car isn't actually overheating..

The temp guage stays towards the cold side - no sign of it actually working or being accurate.. This was happening since before I changed my thermostat probably 6-8 months ago.. But I wasn't getting this warning however, that started a while after I changed it..

The car is running great, the boost is back, I don't think it's ever driven this good.. I am just at a loss, I hope my car isn't actually overheating, because if it is it's been overheating for a very long time and I doubt it would be running this good.. No smoke, no steam.. Not consuming oil at all.

When I changed the water out temp sensor I did notice however there was a lot of stuff that looked chewed up, stuff from outside the car (cardboard maybe) that looked like a rat or mouse got in there at one time and tried to make a nest.. The wires don't look damaged, but it does look like there is/was a leak in that area at one time..Will clean it up a bit tonight and do some more trouble shooting..
 

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Progress!

What brand were the replacement temp sensors/thermostat? A lot of non-OEM stuff is junk. It sounds like your car is confused about what the engine temperature actually is and may be opening the thermostat fully (and probably screaming the radiator fan) to put itself in "limp mode" to prevent any chance of overheating.

Water outlet (and the hose to the overflow tank) is just good preventative maintenance while you're in there. I'd recommend buying genuine GM parts.
 

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Discussion Starter #30
Progress!

What brand were the replacement temp sensors/thermostat? A lot of non-OEM stuff is junk. It sounds like your car is confused about what the engine temperature actually is and may be opening the thermostat fully (and probably screaming the radiator fan) to put itself in "limp mode" to prevent any chance of overheating.

Water outlet (and the hose to the overflow tank) is just good preventative maintenance while you're in there. I'd recommend buying genuine GM parts.

I don't remember honestly lol. But I think I just went with the cheapest from O'Riley's.. The thermostat wasn't very cheap though, like $80 if I remember right. And I do remember one of the sensors was AC Delco. You think they'd fail this soon after installing? I've been reading about water pump issues and I have noticed the water pump is pretty loud when I turn my heater on sometimes. I will probably look for the weep hole to see if it's leaking any. Will probably replace the water outlet next weekend.

Also, I heard you have to disconnect the positive battery cable to reset it after a repair, is that true? I just had the negative unplugged when I was working on it.
 

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Wow! I just got a letter from Chevy saying they would reimburse me for the parts I bought for my car.. Not sure if this was triggered by the PCV kit I bought or the valve covers from O'Riley's.. Anyone get something like this as well?
 

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Wow! I just got a letter from Chevy saying they would reimburse me for the parts I bought for my car.. Not sure if this was triggered by the PCV kit I bought or the valve covers from O'Riley's.. Anyone get something like this as well?
Yes I did, it is triggered by neither things you did, just a program they're starting. :) It however doesnt fix the root cause, which is the intake manifold, not the valve cover.
 

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Yes I did, it is triggered by neither things you did, just a program they're starting. :) It however doesnt fix the root cause, which is the intake manifold, not the valve cover.
Yeah after looking at it I don't think I'm eligible it says if it was repaired within 10 years or 120k miles.. I'm nearly 140k. :(

But yeah.. They need to come fix whatever is wrong with it now.. I just want something reliable I can take road trips in. And I would wager that it isn't a coincidence I'm just getting this from GM.. Having just repaired it last weekend, ordering the parts a week or two earlier. All these massive conglomerates sell each other consumer information, so they probably know exactly what I paid TBH. They just don't know the miles on my car, unfortunately.
 

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Yeah after looking at it I don't think I'm eligible it says if it was repaired within 10 years or 120k miles.. I'm nearly 140k. :(

But yeah.. They need to come fix whatever is wrong with it now.. I just want something reliable I can take road trips in. And I would wager that it isn't a coincidence I'm just getting this from GM.. Having just repaired it last weekend, ordering the parts a week or two earlier. All these massive conglomerates sell each other consumer information, so they probably know exactly what I paid TBH. They just don't know the miles on my car, unfortunately.
They just sent out an extended warranty coverage to basically anyone they can track down that owns a 2011-2014 [for the valve cover]

Also, I heard you have to disconnect the positive battery cable to reset it after a repair, is that true? I just had the negative unplugged when I was working on it.
Eh, same thing.

I don't remember honestly lol. But I think I just went with the cheapest from O'Riley's.. The thermostat wasn't very cheap though, like $80 if I remember right. And I do remember one of the sensors was AC Delco. You think they'd fail this soon after installing?
Not sure if it's the thermostat or a sensor in this case. You should be able to tell if the thermostat's stuck wide open by whether or not you have any cabin heat when the gauge isn't reading anything. Anything below 160 coolant temp and you barely get anything from the vents.

The one sneaky bit these cars might do if they trigger an overheat mode because they don't know what the temp sensor readings are is trigger the thermostat heater, which will open it anyway.

I can tell you I've had Duralast parts (AutoZone, it's what's closest to us) dead straight out of the box.
 

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Discussion Starter #35
They just sent out an extended warranty coverage to basically anyone they can track down that owns a 2011-2014 [for the valve cover]


Eh, same thing.


Not sure if it's the thermostat or a sensor in this case. You should be able to tell if the thermostat's stuck wide open by whether or not you have any cabin heat when the gauge isn't reading anything. Anything below 160 coolant temp and you barely get anything from the vents.

The one sneaky bit these cars might do if they trigger an overheat mode because they don't know what the temp sensor readings are is trigger the thermostat heater, which will open it anyway.

I can tell you I've had Duralast parts (AutoZone, it's what's closest to us) dead straight out of the box.
That's sad... Well I guess I will be replacing the sensors and thermostat this weekend and water outlet.. Lol. FML! At least I know what I'm doing now..

And the hot air is blowing strong with the heater on, with the temp gauge all the way at cold all the way to work.. Maybe it is stuck open, IDK. Next time I will go with a Japanese or Korean car.. Lol.
 

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Alright so I feel like I have overhauled my car now!

I have replaced: The thermostat, the water outlet valve, the PCV fix mod, the valve covers, and the other temp sensor in the radiator.. I replaced the water outlet one twice because I replaced it by itself before replacing the entire outlet.. Okay so now I'm at a loss. My car is driving better than it ever really has. I flushed the entire coolant system when I changed the water outlet valve just for good maintenance practice. So I noticed that my car runs great but after 3 days of the battery being connected the "AC off due to high engine temp" comes back, I will pull over and unhook my negative terminal, rehook it and it runs fine for another 3 days... What gives...? This is so frustrating. I don't think it can be the temp sensors. The thermostat is working fine, it's blowing hotter air than every before after I replaced the water outlet, I think the water outlet was a little gummed up because that seemed to make a bit of difference in how it runs..... What could it be????? I read somewhere but I can't find the post that GM had a software update that supposedly fixed this warning and that dealers were supposed to apply the update, but I can't find the post now and I don't even know if that's true or if that's the issue... But it sure seems like it.. I'm basically rebooting the computer every 3 days so I can use my AC..
 

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Did you use the "bleeder-valve" on the radiator when you did the coolant drain and fill?
Trapped air can cause over-heating.
 

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Did you use the "bleeder-valve" on the radiator when you did the coolant drain and fill?
Trapped air can cause over-heating.
Yes I did. I unscrewed it and fluid came out while it was running I believe it was up to temp.. It was doing this before I replaced the water outlet as well.

After I did the PCV fix I had no CEL for about a month and then I forget which code it was but I got a CEL, something to do with the coolant system running unexpectedly, so I flushed the coolant system and replaced the outlet valve.. So far after a week~ that CEL has not come back on, but I have been dealing with the intermittent AC Off high engine temp warning issue without a CEL every 3 days.
 

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Did you verify if the vehicle is in-fact overheating..??
Check your radiator fan and see if it "runs" when you use your AC.
The AC should force it to run shortly after turning on the AC. If it doesn't,..check relays in fuse box under the hood.
Their is also a relay hard-mounted to the fan shroud that can go bad as well,...but it usually puts the fan in JET-MODE off and on.
It could also just be the radiator fan motor went bad.
 

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Discussion Starter #40
Did you verify if the vehicle is in-fact overheating..??
Check your radiator fan and see if it "runs" when you use your AC.
The AC should force it to run shortly after turning on the AC. If it doesn't,..check relays in fuse box under the hood.
Their is also a relay hard-mounted to the fan shroud that can go bad as well,...but it usually puts the fan in JET-MODE off and on.
It could also just be the radiator fan motor went bad.

Fan is working.. When I turn AC on it turns on shortly after.. When car gets up to temp it turns on as well.. It also turns on in jet mode if I run the engine hard. I really don't think it's overheating.
 
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