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2011-2016 Cruze 1.4 PCV Valve Cover/Intake Manifold Issues

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2011-2016 Cruze 1.4L PCV Valve Cover/Intake Manifold Issues

Video:
I made a video to help better explain how this whole PCV system works to supplement this article.


Overview
I find myself having to explain this issue to someone almost daily, so in the interest of brevity, I'm creating a thread specifically for people to reference quickly if they have an issue.

The Cruze 1.4L Turbo engine has a terrible PCV check valve design that afflicts 100% of cars I have come across. It's not a matter of if, but when, it will fail. There are three primary components to this system that frequently fail: the PCV regulator diaphragm (some people call it a check valve) on the valve cover, the check valve in the intake manifold, and the corrugated hose going from the intake manifold to the turbo. We will focus on the first two, which are the most likely failures.


Symptoms
Depending on how long you've had this issue, your vehicle may throw a check engine light with any or all of the following codes (DTCs):
P0171
P0106
P1101
P0507
P0299
P2096


Note: lack of check engine light does not mean everything is operating correctly!

Your vehicle may also exhibit any or all of the following symptoms:
  • Elevated oil consumption
  • Smoke blowing through the tail pipe
  • A hissing sound in the engine bay
  • A rough/stumbling idle
  • Loss of power
  • Reduced fuel economy


Diagnosis
Valve Cover
With the engine running, inspect the vent on the PCV regulator diaphragm. The PCV regulator diaphragm has a round non-removable cap on the driver side of the valve cover. Remove the cosmetic cover off of the valve cover:


Underneath, you'll find the cap that covers the PCV regulator diaphragm. If this has failed, the engine will be sucking in air from here, and creating a hissing sound. Place your finger over this hole to cover it. If the engine RPMs change or the hissing stops, the valve cover needs to be replaced.


DON'T STOP THERE! Failure of the valve cover PCV regulator diaphragm may only be a symptom of a greater problem: the PCV check valve in the intake manifold. If the intake manifold PCV check valve has failed and you only replace the valve cover, you will find yourself replacing valve covers every few months not knowing why.


Intake Manifold PCV Check Valve
With the engine off, locate the corrugated hose coming out of the top of the PCV check valve:


With tightly gripped pliers, remove the clip holding the hose off by pulling it out:


Pull the corrugated hose off from the base, taking care not to pull from the hose itself as it may crack or tear. Using a flashlight, look inside the hole. If you are facing the engine bay from the front, there should be an orange/pink/peach nipple/valve on the "back" of that hole that looks like this:


If you don't see that check valve, use q-tips and rubbing alcohol to clean that area and check again. If you still don't see it, this must be addressed.

There's one final part that needs to be checked:


PCV Hose/Valve
In the last section, you need to remove a hose from the intake manifold. That hose has another check valve at the other end of it; at the turbo inlet. To verify its functionality, blow into the hose; it should blow freely. Suck air back through the hose; it should completely block airflow. If it doesn't do either of these, the whole thing needs to be replaced. Those hose also has a tendency to become brittle and crack, at which point it will also need replacing. Be sure to check this hose everywhere if you suspect it is leaking or are hearing a hissing sound in the engine bay.


Repair Solutions
Both of the above components are covered under your powertrain warranty. If your car is still under powertrain warranty, bring your car to the dealer and tell your dealer you are experiencing oil consumption of one quart per 1,000 miles and to reference GM Bulletin PIP5197C.

If the PCV regulator diaphragm on the valve cover has failed, replacement is required and will cost ~$60. Refer to this tutorial for replacing the valve cover. How-To: Replace the Valve/Camshaft Cover (1.4L Turbo)

If the check valve on the intake manifold is missing, you have three options:
1. You can replace the intake manifold with a new one. As of late early 2018, GM is phasing out the intake manifold that ships with all accessories and is selling a bare intake manifold. I don't yet have the part number for that.
2. Dorman has begun releasing an option. However, this option has the same check valve design as the GM manifold, meaning it will be prone to failure and boost leaks, and is not serviceable. The part number is 615-380, but availability is currently limited.
3. You can install one of my Intake Manifold PCV check valve fix kits for as little as $75, which is much cheaper than the Dorman intake (after shipping) while providing you a more robust, leak-free, and durable check valve. My external check valve design allows for easy (doesn't require removal of the intake manifold) servicing and cleaning, and inexpensive replacement. Details are in this thread: GM 1.4L Turbo Intake Manifold PCV Valve Fix Kits

A tutorial for removing the intake manifold is located here: How-To: Remove 2011-2016 Cruze 1.4L Intake Manifold

If the check valve at the turbo inlet has malfunctioned or the hose is cracked, you will need to replace it: ACDelco 25193343 PCV Pipe with Valve


Resources
To learn more about this engine's PCV system, refer to the following thread: 2011-2016 Cruze Limited 1.4L PCV System Explained

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Would upgrading to a ZZP Performance ported intake manifold fix these issues?

I have a 2012 Chevrolet Cruze Eco 1.4, I got a p0171 code come up, so I replaced the valve cover, cleaned the MAF sensor. But I still have a small rough start/idle. I keep hearing a hissing sound coming from somewhere but I can't figure out what it might be.
Check your hose it says at the bottom of the thread that they crack often. The hose you disconnected from the intake manifold try blowing in it and it should flow freely and try sucking air out and you shouldn't be able to if you are there's a problem and if there is a crack in the hose it's most likely why you are eharing the hissing noise.
Would upgrading to a ZZP Performance ported intake manifold fix these issues?



Check your hose it says at the bottom of the thread that they crack often. The hose you disconnected from the intake manifold try blowing in it and it should flow freely and try sucking air out and you shouldn't be able to if you are there's a problem and if there is a crack in the hose it's most likely why you are eharing the hissing noise.
No, upgrading to ZZP's manifold won't fix these issues. It has the same design flaw as the OEM manifold, because it is a modified OEM manifold.
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Looks like it's that time again. My first valve cover replacement was at 93,000 miles under warranty. The second at 127,000 and now I'm at 217,000. After the second cover I learned about the intake check valve and was concerned that the short interval was an indicator that it may be a problem. Then I get 90,000 out of that one so I'm not so sure. Regardless, I simply can't afford to do more than throw another cover on and hope for the best. My current problem is that when shopping for a new cover I find parts that disclose there is a replacement, but I can't find the replacement. The last replacement number I find referenced is 25198874, but I can't find it anywhere (including GM parts sites). I know there hasn't been much improvement, but I still don't think I want to put on a part that has a replacement. Any improvement is better than no improvement. Can anyone tell me what the current replacement part number is?

As far as the intake, I think I'll grab a salvage intake and start working on installing a kit so I'm ready if/when it needs to be replaced.
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What really makes my blood boil is that other makes use a similar diaphragm on the valve cover and it is replaceable. Dorman sells the replacements for $10-$20 in most cases and takes 2 minutes to replace. GM seems to have made at least 3 updated valve covers, yet they could not resort to making the diaphragm a replaceable part to make up for their poor design. I've totally lost confidence in GM/Chevy. I doubt I will buy another of their products. Not because they made a design error. It happens to every manufacturer, but most manufacturers make a strong effort to make it right. GM has done little to nothing. This is not the GM I used to know and love. After I put the new cover on I may use the old one to see if I can create a modification with a 3D printer to accommodate a Dorman diaphragm. I just need to find one with similar specs.
My car is throwing the PO106,PO15B,PO171,PO507,P1101 codes and its frustrating. I called the dealership and informed me that my car's power train warranty expired this past July 25th exactly 4 years from the cars make which is a 2014 Chevy Cruze Turbo LT with 73,766 miles but I read on this forum its actually 5 years until 100,000 miles that I'm covered for as far as power train and may get this problem fixed by the dealership. I'm kinda confused here I'm not sure if im missing something or that Chevy dealer operator was right? Thanks guys you are awesome.
So yesterday I had the engine light on and it was the P0171 code, and then on the same day in the evening the light was gone, so I went and check the PCV valve cover regulator if there was any air being sucked in, there is air being sucked in but it doesn't have a hissing sound or changes the rpm, and just so you know my car at idling stays below 1000 rpms and it vibrates the car just a little, so my questions are: do I have to replace the valve cover and why is there an opening in the PCV regulator diaphragm if it's not suppose to suck air?
Great post thanks, I had a very strange situation Sunday morning i went out and made stops got gas BP , I have always used shell but they where not open. So I drove car back and it set until this morning. It started idling rough and the light came on. (2012 2 LT 53000) car ran fine, I stopped at a friends shop got the code for o2 and 0171. I called Chevy they said no recalls for my vin plus there is a warranty 5 years 100000 which has passed. Any idea's can't believe the car ran great has usual and now codes. In 45 years and 100 cars never seen anything like this, If anyone has a recall number that would be great. Only time I go to dealer because they charge $200 to walk in
I spoke to GM this morning they said 5 years 100000 miles . I would call them. Mine is over years and under miles, but there seems to be a recall that i can't find she did tell me my vin was not effected ya right.
Thank you for this video and all the related information. I had my valve cover replace just under the expiration of the 100,000 mile warranty. Then had to replace it again after a year. This is the only problem I have ever had with my 2013 ECO. I love this car and am delighted by the occasional milage high marks in the 58 mpg range. Hopeful to hit 60 mpg Best Score.

Ken :)
Thank you for this video and all the related information. I had my valve cover replace just under the expiration of the 100,000 mile warranty. Then had to replace it again after a year. This is the only problem I have ever had with my 2013 ECO. I love this car and am delighted by the occasional milage high marks in the 58 mpg range. Hopeful to hit 60 mpg Best Score.

Ken :)
Check the intake manifold check valve. Shouldn't fail again that soon.

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I am in need of some serious advice and feel this is the right thread to post.... I have a manual 2014 1.4L turbo, always loved the car till this past year... Around 50-55k my engine started squealing pretty bad. Wasn't the belt or tensioner pully or the front crank shaft seal. The code I got when the check engine light finally turned on was a P0171... Took it to the dealership at 57,570 miles. They warrantied out the PCV valve cover (Oct 30). Few days ago I'm driving from work, 2 miles from home, I start to smell burning oil and minimal smoke from the front. Pull into the parking lot, pop the hood and motor oil is everywhere and the oil cap is missing. Figure it could have been a user error as I had topped off the oil a few days ago. Purchase a new oil cap, motor oil and wash the engine... The next morning, driving to work (commute 54 highway miles each way), and approximately 2 miles from the shop, I'm at a stop light and my car starts to have a burning smell, white smoke is coming from my exhaust, the front is starting to smoke. I pullover in a parking lot (acceleration is slightly sluggish), but then it kicks back up, stops smoking from the exhaust and I'm able to get it to the work. Pop the hood... Oil cap blown off again and oil everywhere. I had my friend put the cap on and checked to make sure it was on there snug, so ruled out user error. Called my service manager, they don't think it's related to their recent service work as im at 60,605 miles now and it's been a month. Left the car there, I'm getting it towed to the dealership in the morning.

I don't know much... But im trying. Here is my theory... The pressure within my engine isn't right or maybe something is clogged. The squealing from the PCV was due to air passing through a weak/loose seal. Now that, that part is new and fixed the pressure has to go somewhere else. Over time, it starts to wear down other ports of exit. It escapes through the next "weakest" link. Hence, my oil cap getting blown off.

Questions:
1.) What is going on for this to happen ?
2.) Does my theory make any sense at all?
3.) Is my engine blown?
4.) What do I need to do to fix this as my powertrain is good till 60k.

Thank you in advance.

3.)
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I am in need of some serious advice and feel this is the right thread to post.... I have a manual 2014 1.4L turbo, always loved the car till this past year... Around 50-55k my engine started squealing pretty bad. Wasn't the belt or tensioner pully or the front crank shaft seal. The code I got when the check engine light finally turned on was a P0171... Took it to the dealership at 57,570 miles. They warrantied out the PCV valve cover (Oct 30). Few days ago I'm driving from work, 2 miles from home, I start to smell burning oil and minimal smoke from the front. Pull into the parking lot, pop the hood and motor oil is everywhere and the oil cap is missing. Figure it could have been a user error as I had topped off the oil a few days ago. Purchase a new oil cap, motor oil and wash the engine... The next morning, driving to work (commute 54 highway miles each way), and approximately 2 miles from the shop, I'm at a stop light and my car starts to have a burning smell, white smoke is coming from my exhaust, the front is starting to smoke. I pullover in a parking lot (acceleration is slightly sluggish), but then it kicks back up, stops smoking from the exhaust and I'm able to get it to the work. Pop the hood... Oil cap blown off again and oil everywhere. I had my friend put the cap on and checked to make sure it was on there snug, so ruled out user error. Called my service manager, they don't think it's related to their recent service work as im at 60,605 miles now and it's been a month. Left the car there, I'm getting it towed to the dealership in the morning.

I don't know much... But im trying. Here is my theory... The pressure within my engine isn't right or maybe something is clogged. The squealing from the PCV was due to air passing through a weak/loose seal. Now that, that part is new and fixed the pressure has to go somewhere else. Over time, it starts to wear down other ports of exit. It escapes through the next "weakest" link. Hence, my oil cap getting blown off.

Questions:
1.) What is going on for this to happen ?
2.) Does my theory make any sense at all?
3.) Is my engine blown?
4.) What do I need to do to fix this as my powertrain is good till 60k.

Thank you in advance.

3.)
I posted a video at the start of this thread, as well as instructions in the thread itself to diagnose common issues with the PCV system. Have you gone through those recommended diagnostic steps?

You don't really need to do anything except drive into a dealership and have them fix it for you.
My wife's car is a 2016 Cruze LT1, 65,700 miles. It was running rough and the CEL came on. Codes are P0171, P0106, P0131, P1101. I went to Autozone because I never worked on this car before. Their diagnosis was to replace the MAF sensor. The part is coming tomorrow. Do I really need this part or do you think I should go through all the checks in this thread? I will be working on it in the dark and cold so I would like to stay warm and not have to go through anything that I don't have to. Also, is the car still driveable until I can work on it when its light out? Thanks in advance.
My wife's car is a 2016 Cruze LT1, 65,700 miles. It was running rough and the CEL came on. Codes are P0171, P0106, P0131, P1101. I went to Autozone because I never worked on this car before. Their diagnosis was to replace the MAF sensor. The part is coming tomorrow. Do I really need this part or do you think I should go through all the checks in this thread? I will be working on it in the dark and cold so I would like to stay warm and not have to go through anything that I don't have to. Also, is the car still driveable until I can work on it when its light out? Thanks in advance.
Doesn't need a MAF. Most likely a blown valve cover disk. Check it for hissing and replace if necessary.

It's driveable but do not trust it to pull out into traffic quickly - it may hiccup and fall on right on its face when you need it to go.

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New intake manifold removal video on youtube

https://youtu.be/CRY62-mc_zI
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My wife's car is a 2016 Cruze LT1, 65,700 miles. It was running rough and the CEL came on. Codes are P0171, P0106, P0131, P1101. I went to Autozone because I never worked on this car before. Their diagnosis was to replace the MAF sensor. The part is coming tomorrow. Do I really need this part or do you think I should go through all the checks in this thread? I will be working on it in the dark and cold so I would like to stay warm and not have to go through anything that I don't have to. Also, is the car still driveable until I can work on it when its light out? Thanks in advance.
Welcome Aboard!:welcome:

Don't forget to introduce yourself and your Cruze here.
I’m really thankful to have found this thread. I bought my 2014 Chevy Cruze LT last June. Shortly after engine light came on and a terrible rough idle. Replaced a couple of sensors before finally realizing it was my valve cover diaphragm Replaced the cover with an after market part. Didn’t have an inch pound wrench so I ended up with problems with the bolts coming loose. One of them stripped the hole completely. Retapped that hole, put the cover back on. My car then has white smoke from the tail pipe along with the check engine light coming back on. I put it the shop because I wasn’t aware of that being an oil leak symptoms. The shop told me I needed to replace the cat convertor and replaced my oil & spark plugs (to the tune of $300)
I knew it wasn’t my converter so I brought my car home, took the cover off and realized the gasket has broken and oil was blowing all over the back of my engine. I replaced the gasket, in a day that one had busted too. Replaced again. Had oil leaking from the bolts on the left side of the case. They had stripped out the holes and would no longer tighten. I retapped these too.
At this point I decided to order the GM cover as clearly this aftermarket thing isn’t cutting it.
I replaced that Wednesday. With the correct inch pounds and bolt sequence. By Thursday afternoon my car was out of oil and it seems to be leaking from under the case, but all my bolts are tight and I know the seal isn’t cracked.
After reading this post I checked my intake manifold, the nipple is gone. I also have a lot of noise coming from my crankshaft pulley and I’m aware that there is a seal down there that can go bad too. I just really wanted an opinion on if the other pcv checks are gone it can cause the oil leak around the case. I’m rather frustrated with the whole thing and have sunk a lot of money for the same problems to keep popping up.
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With this string being very long and I have went through al of it, have done the PCV conversion with the check valve. Two days and roughly 200 miles later I have oil all over again... Has new valve cover setup installed at the same time as the check valve install.. Now what?
With this string being very long and I have went through al of it, have done the PCV conversion with the check valve. Two days and roughly 200 miles later I have oil all over again... Has new valve cover setup installed at the same time as the check valve install.. Now what?
Did you inspect the check valve at the turbo inlet?

Might be time for a compression test.

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