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2011-2016 Cruze 1.4 PCV Valve Cover/Intake Manifold Issues

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2011-2016 Cruze 1.4L PCV Valve Cover/Intake Manifold Issues

Video:
I made a video to help better explain how this whole PCV system works to supplement this article.


Overview
I find myself having to explain this issue to someone almost daily, so in the interest of brevity, I'm creating a thread specifically for people to reference quickly if they have an issue.

The Cruze 1.4L Turbo engine has a terrible PCV check valve design that afflicts 100% of cars I have come across. It's not a matter of if, but when, it will fail. There are three primary components to this system that frequently fail: the PCV regulator diaphragm (some people call it a check valve) on the valve cover, the check valve in the intake manifold, and the corrugated hose going from the intake manifold to the turbo. We will focus on the first two, which are the most likely failures.


Symptoms
Depending on how long you've had this issue, your vehicle may throw a check engine light with any or all of the following codes (DTCs):
P0171
P0106
P1101
P0507
P0299
P2096


Note: lack of check engine light does not mean everything is operating correctly!

Your vehicle may also exhibit any or all of the following symptoms:
  • Elevated oil consumption
  • Smoke blowing through the tail pipe
  • A hissing sound in the engine bay
  • A rough/stumbling idle
  • Loss of power
  • Reduced fuel economy


Diagnosis
Valve Cover
With the engine running, inspect the vent on the PCV regulator diaphragm. The PCV regulator diaphragm has a round non-removable cap on the driver side of the valve cover. Remove the cosmetic cover off of the valve cover:


Underneath, you'll find the cap that covers the PCV regulator diaphragm. If this has failed, the engine will be sucking in air from here, and creating a hissing sound. Place your finger over this hole to cover it. If the engine RPMs change or the hissing stops, the valve cover needs to be replaced.


DON'T STOP THERE! Failure of the valve cover PCV regulator diaphragm may only be a symptom of a greater problem: the PCV check valve in the intake manifold. If the intake manifold PCV check valve has failed and you only replace the valve cover, you will find yourself replacing valve covers every few months not knowing why.


Intake Manifold PCV Check Valve
With the engine off, locate the corrugated hose coming out of the top of the PCV check valve:


With tightly gripped pliers, remove the clip holding the hose off by pulling it out:


Pull the corrugated hose off from the base, taking care not to pull from the hose itself as it may crack or tear. Using a flashlight, look inside the hole. If you are facing the engine bay from the front, there should be an orange/pink/peach nipple/valve on the "back" of that hole that looks like this:


If you don't see that check valve, use q-tips and rubbing alcohol to clean that area and check again. If you still don't see it, this must be addressed.

There's one final part that needs to be checked:


PCV Hose/Valve
In the last section, you need to remove a hose from the intake manifold. That hose has another check valve at the other end of it; at the turbo inlet. To verify its functionality, blow into the hose; it should blow freely. Suck air back through the hose; it should completely block airflow. If it doesn't do either of these, the whole thing needs to be replaced. Those hose also has a tendency to become brittle and crack, at which point it will also need replacing. Be sure to check this hose everywhere if you suspect it is leaking or are hearing a hissing sound in the engine bay.


Repair Solutions
Both of the above components are covered under your powertrain warranty. If your car is still under powertrain warranty, bring your car to the dealer and tell your dealer you are experiencing oil consumption of one quart per 1,000 miles and to reference GM Bulletin PIP5197C.

If the PCV regulator diaphragm on the valve cover has failed, replacement is required and will cost ~$60. Refer to this tutorial for replacing the valve cover. How-To: Replace the Valve/Camshaft Cover (1.4L Turbo)

If the check valve on the intake manifold is missing, you have three options:
1. You can replace the intake manifold with a new one. As of late early 2018, GM is phasing out the intake manifold that ships with all accessories and is selling a bare intake manifold. I don't yet have the part number for that.
2. Dorman has begun releasing an option. However, this option has the same check valve design as the GM manifold, meaning it will be prone to failure and boost leaks, and is not serviceable. The part number is 615-380, but availability is currently limited.
3. You can install one of my Intake Manifold PCV check valve fix kits for as little as $75, which is much cheaper than the Dorman intake (after shipping) while providing you a more robust, leak-free, and durable check valve. My external check valve design allows for easy (doesn't require removal of the intake manifold) servicing and cleaning, and inexpensive replacement. Details are in this thread: GM 1.4L Turbo Intake Manifold PCV Valve Fix Kits

A tutorial for removing the intake manifold is located here: How-To: Remove 2011-2016 Cruze 1.4L Intake Manifold

If the check valve at the turbo inlet has malfunctioned or the hose is cracked, you will need to replace it: ACDelco 25193343 PCV Pipe with Valve


Resources
To learn more about this engine's PCV system, refer to the following thread: 2011-2016 Cruze Limited 1.4L PCV System Explained

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Hello

today I found out that after 185.000 miles the check Valve in my intake manifold is gone. I took some epoxy or JB weld like stuff and just shut the hole in the intake manifold where the check Valve used to be. That was possible without removing the intake. I did that because I got a P0299 underboost and reduced engine power everytime I drove the car, and I have to drive to work every day. The car drives fine now but when I pull the dip stick at idle I get blowby coming out instead of a vacuum sucking in air. I may not have time to replace the intake for the next 1-2 weeks. What might happen if I drive it like that ? My first thought was that the Turbo will start spitting oil because crank case pressure is too high to allow the oil to drain back.
The amount of blow by was not severe, espespecially not for the milage of the engine… just about what is normal for every engine that does not have a vacuum in the crank case

What are your thoughts ?

Thanks
You'll see elevated oil consumption and likely external oil leaks. My pcv fix kit blocks that port as well with a screw and a nylon washer that allows the epoxy to bond two pieces together instead of just clogging it.

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Thanks for the guide. Swapped the valve cover today in about 1hr thanks to this.
This may have already been mentioned but I am not going through 16 pages to find out... there is one more thing to check if you get the P0171 code. It may be obvious to most if not all of y'all but it may help someone like me...


Check that the oil cap is on properly.


The tech who did my last oil change didn't screw the cap on properly. As I was driving home I noticed the check engine light. I had an appointment so I could not turn back to the dealer but all I could think was that an oil change couldn't possibly trigger a check engine light.

Long story made short. After checking everything listed in the original post I could not locate the source of the very loud hissing. I called the dealer to bring the car back expecting to have to shell out several hundred dollars. All it cost me was time.
I have been driving around a couple of hundred miles now with the intake manifold mushroom Valve missing and it´s holes clogged with epoxy.

So far I can only report positive.. car drives MUCH better like that than with the missing Valve.. much better Response, more power, better idle. Today I checked for leaks and couldn`t find any.. also checked under the car.. engine is bone dry... it did not burn a drop of oil so far. I`ll leave it like this and will continue to drive and monitor things. At the moment no need to spend a whole Saturday for changing the intake.. I have a used one standing by in case things change.

I think the valve has been leaking for a loong time because it now drives so well as it hasn`t been in a very long time... I was always missing a top end power and under boost I strange negative fuel trims that I never figured out. Both is gone now
I'm not sure where to ask this. I own a 12 1.4 Cruze 6 spd, 88k,after adding 1/2 qrt of oil it began to "miss" when accelerating especially like when you down shift to pass a car, it can do it once or many times. To try and stop it I have drained the half qrt, installed new plugs and coil, and the pcv repair kit today, it still stutter s, the tubing and check valve to the turbo seem fine and I don't feel any suction on the valve cover diaphragm. My next step is to replace the valve cover for the heck of it, any help or guidance would be great, just really frustrated.
I have been driving around a couple of hundred miles now with the intake manifold mushroom Valve missing and it´s holes clogged with epoxy.

So far I can only report positive.. car drives MUCH better like that than with the missing Valve.. much better Response, more power, better idle. Today I checked for leaks and couldn`t find any.. also checked under the car.. engine is bone dry... it did not burn a drop of oil so far. I`ll leave it like this and will continue to drive and monitor things. At the moment no need to spend a whole Saturday for changing the intake.. I have a used one standing by in case things change.

I think the valve has been leaking for a loong time because it now drives so well as it hasn`t been in a very long time... I was always missing a top end power and under boost I strange negative fuel trims that I never figured out. Both is gone now
Still no issues, leaks or oil consumption to report. Engine runs great and normal
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Just replaced my 5th PCV valve cover again. Seems to only last 19k-20k miles. Thank gosh I bought the original cover from a Chevy dealer and every year I take the old one back and they exchange for free. They know their is a problem. Car has 102,000 miles. Just need it to last one more year for my daughter in college. Also good idea to check the spark plugs, gap, and clean when cover is off. 2 plugs where loose.
Also too add, car has a couple places leaking oil underneath. One is up by the tube that comes off the block by the turbo and goes to the right side of the radiator where it is leaking there but can’t see it. The other is underneath by the transmission somewhere. Not sure what the cost is to fix them. And what is the best way to check the transmission oil?
Just replaced my 5th PCV valve cover again. Seems to only last 19k-20k miles. Thank gosh I bought the original cover from a Chevy dealer and every year I take the old one back and they exchange for free. They know their is a problem. Car has 102,000 miles. Just need it to last one more year for my daughter in college. Also good idea to check the spark plugs, gap, and clean when cover is off. 2 plugs where loose.
Have you addressed the intake manifold?

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what is this?


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AMSOIL bypass filter return line.

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Still no issues, leaks or oil consumption to report. Engine runs great and normal
Just wondering if your engine is still performing well?
I just had to change my cover for a 2nd time, 1st one last 100k, 2nd one 50k. Well in the process one of the bolt holes stripped out, was going to use a helicoil to repair it, an ideas what size the threads are for this repair?
Having my intake manifold and cover replaced right now. Of course my car is just out of warranty so it is costing me around $1100 to fix. 2012 LT with 55,600 Miles. Seems to be around the mileage that this happens from the research I've done.
I’m at 54,500 miles right now.
I’m at 54,500 miles right now.
I replaced my 2012 with a Doman brand, you can find for around $160.00 on Amazon. Not difficult to do, there's a couple of YouTube video's on how to replace if your up to it or maybe find a local mechanic to install cheaper than dealer.
I suggest you read the first posts as there are many links to solutions and more information.
I've stumbled upon some interesting information which I'm still trying to confirm. Search part# 25193343 on carid. This is the GM recommended PCV and what THEY themselves put on your car.

It says..... Notes:
This is a Race Only product that is to be used solely for competition. It cannot be used on vehicles that are operated on public streets, roads or highways. Its use is limited to closed-course and open-course racing that is formally sanctioned by a recognized racing organization. Any other use, including recreational off-road use, could be in violation of local, state and federal laws. Shipping Restriction: CA, NY, ME.

Also notice the "waiver" you have to sign by purchasing this product from this particular company and why. I just want to confirm that the part number listed on my estimate sheet number is "25193343" from GM dealership.
I am sharing this information hoping it may help someone else. Do NOT put THIS particular brand PCV valve in your car! Get a different brand. They keep replacing it with the same part that may actually not be recommended for regular use. And everyone is wondering why it seems to only be lasting a few thousand miles. :rolleyes:
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I orderd the dorman valve cover and the dorman intake
I orderd the dorman valve cover and the dorman intake
That's what I went with due to all the repeat failures with the OEM replacements. I haven't heard of any failures with the Dorman.
The Valve cover was tough to get most auto parts places were sold out so I bought it on eBay. I dont shop on amazon Ebay all the way
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