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2011-2016 Cruze 1.4 PCV Valve Cover/Intake Manifold Issues

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2011-2016 Cruze 1.4L PCV Valve Cover/Intake Manifold Issues

Video:
I made a video to help better explain how this whole PCV system works to supplement this article.


Overview
I find myself having to explain this issue to someone almost daily, so in the interest of brevity, I'm creating a thread specifically for people to reference quickly if they have an issue.

The Cruze 1.4L Turbo engine has a terrible PCV check valve design that afflicts 100% of cars I have come across. It's not a matter of if, but when, it will fail. There are three primary components to this system that frequently fail: the PCV regulator diaphragm (some people call it a check valve) on the valve cover, the check valve in the intake manifold, and the corrugated hose going from the intake manifold to the turbo. We will focus on the first two, which are the most likely failures.


Symptoms
Depending on how long you've had this issue, your vehicle may throw a check engine light with any or all of the following codes (DTCs):
P0171
P0106
P1101
P0507
P0299
P2096


Note: lack of check engine light does not mean everything is operating correctly!

Your vehicle may also exhibit any or all of the following symptoms:
  • Elevated oil consumption
  • Smoke blowing through the tail pipe
  • A hissing sound in the engine bay
  • A rough/stumbling idle
  • Loss of power
  • Reduced fuel economy


Diagnosis
Valve Cover
With the engine running, inspect the vent on the PCV regulator diaphragm. The PCV regulator diaphragm has a round non-removable cap on the driver side of the valve cover. Remove the cosmetic cover off of the valve cover:


Underneath, you'll find the cap that covers the PCV regulator diaphragm. If this has failed, the engine will be sucking in air from here, and creating a hissing sound. Place your finger over this hole to cover it. If the engine RPMs change or the hissing stops, the valve cover needs to be replaced.


DON'T STOP THERE! Failure of the valve cover PCV regulator diaphragm may only be a symptom of a greater problem: the PCV check valve in the intake manifold. If the intake manifold PCV check valve has failed and you only replace the valve cover, you will find yourself replacing valve covers every few months not knowing why.


Intake Manifold PCV Check Valve
With the engine off, locate the corrugated hose coming out of the top of the PCV check valve:


With tightly gripped pliers, remove the clip holding the hose off by pulling it out:


Pull the corrugated hose off from the base, taking care not to pull from the hose itself as it may crack or tear. Using a flashlight, look inside the hole. If you are facing the engine bay from the front, there should be an orange/pink/peach nipple/valve on the "back" of that hole that looks like this:


If you don't see that check valve, use q-tips and rubbing alcohol to clean that area and check again. If you still don't see it, this must be addressed.

There's one final part that needs to be checked:


PCV Hose/Valve
In the last section, you need to remove a hose from the intake manifold. That hose has another check valve at the other end of it; at the turbo inlet. To verify its functionality, blow into the hose; it should blow freely. Suck air back through the hose; it should completely block airflow. If it doesn't do either of these, the whole thing needs to be replaced. Those hose also has a tendency to become brittle and crack, at which point it will also need replacing. Be sure to check this hose everywhere if you suspect it is leaking or are hearing a hissing sound in the engine bay.


Repair Solutions
Both of the above components are covered under your powertrain warranty. If your car is still under powertrain warranty, bring your car to the dealer and tell your dealer you are experiencing oil consumption of one quart per 1,000 miles and to reference GM Bulletin PIP5197C.

If the PCV regulator diaphragm on the valve cover has failed, replacement is required and will cost ~$60. Refer to this tutorial for replacing the valve cover. How-To: Replace the Valve/Camshaft Cover (1.4L Turbo)

If the check valve on the intake manifold is missing, you have three options:
1. You can replace the intake manifold with a new one. As of late early 2018, GM is phasing out the intake manifold that ships with all accessories and is selling a bare intake manifold. I don't yet have the part number for that.
2. Dorman has begun releasing an option. However, this option has the same check valve design as the GM manifold, meaning it will be prone to failure and boost leaks, and is not serviceable. The part number is 615-380, but availability is currently limited.
3. You can install one of my Intake Manifold PCV check valve fix kits for as little as $75, which is much cheaper than the Dorman intake (after shipping) while providing you a more robust, leak-free, and durable check valve. My external check valve design allows for easy (doesn't require removal of the intake manifold) servicing and cleaning, and inexpensive replacement. Details are in this thread: GM 1.4L Turbo Intake Manifold PCV Valve Fix Kits

A tutorial for removing the intake manifold is located here: How-To: Remove 2011-2016 Cruze 1.4L Intake Manifold

If the check valve at the turbo inlet has malfunctioned or the hose is cracked, you will need to replace it: ACDelco 25193343 PCV Pipe with Valve


Resources
To learn more about this engine's PCV system, refer to the following thread: 2011-2016 Cruze Limited 1.4L PCV System Explained

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Just hope its not a crank seal because thats what just happened to me. Car didnt leak from the seal till after I put on a dorman valve cover then it blew my seal. Im having a gm cover put on this week and my mechanic said that the gm cover might stop the crank seal leak. Im having my doubts on that but well see. If it dosnt work then I guess ill be spending 700 $ for him to pull the motor to fix the seal. I also did the pcv v2 kit at the same time.
pull the motor? Huuuuuuh. I replaced my crankshaft seal in under an hour.
pull the motor? Huuuuuuh. I replaced my crankshaft seal in under an hour.
I was talking to him before. Rear main seal is suspected to be leaking. I've had countless phone calls come in for aftermarket valve covers that don't flow enough and cause excess crankcase pressure to build, which causes oil loss from all seals around the engine. I literally get these calls a few times a week and every time, I recommend using an OEM valve cover and the problem goes away.

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Sweet I hope I get lucky. Picked up the gm valve cover on friday. Should be put on monday. Along with amsoil signature.
Just hope its not a crank seal because thats what just happened to me. Car didnt leak from the seal till after I put on a dorman valve cover then it blew my seal. Im having a gm cover put on this week and my mechanic said that the gm cover might stop the crank seal leak. Im having my doubts on that but well see. If it dosnt work then I guess ill be spending 700 $ for him to pull the motor to fix the seal. I also did the pcv v2 kit at the same time.
Hi,
I came here to help my daughter figure out what is wrong with her 2014 cruze LT turbo. She has been dealing with mechanics who can't figure it out. I intend to be her hero ;).. Her boyfriend took the car to a mechanic complaining of an oil leak. The mechanic replaced the valve cover gasket. The oil leak came back. The mechanic couldn't find the leak but replaced the valve cover gasket again and also replaced the "PCV VALVE". Yesterday the car spewed oil all over the right side of the motor, causing the serpentine belt to come off and the car to over heat. I looked at it today. What a mess. Anyway, I googled the issue and came across this forum, where I learned about the PCV issues these cars have. I am guessing that a failed PVC system is causing oil to plow out of the valve cover or possible the hose coming off the intake manifold. Maybe the crank seal? Thoughts?
Happy to be here,
Rick
The bad PCV in the intake will cause the vacuum regulator on the valve cover to blow, then it starts to blow oil out any weak spots starting with the crank seal, the CPASV seals, the valve cover etc. If you change the seal, make sure your water pump is not leaking prior as it could be still covered under an extended warranty. If it is take it to the dealer for replacement. If you do the work, I would suggest you spend the extra and get a new belt and tensioner.
The intake is brand new with the v2 kit. Also the valve cover was brand new but it was a dorman not a gm cover. I should have orderd a gm cover from the beginning
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Ok, what do you all recommend I do? Replace valve valve cover and gasket, as well as install a V1 kit? Then see if my leak goes away, or should I go ahead and plan to do the crank seal also?
Ok, what do you all recommend I do? Replace valve valve cover and gasket, as well as install a V1 kit? Then see if my leak goes away, or should I go ahead and plan to do the crank seal also?
I would do the seal, but you can wait until after you install the kit.
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Hey guys I think I tracked my oil leak To the throttle body i think. I have oil dripping on the driveway. Can this be from the PCV valve issue or separate problem? I also see some around the oil cap or valve cover gasket not sure but seems to be coming out of the oil cap rather than the gasket. I just wiped it all down so I can try to track it the next time I drive it. If anyone can help me to diagnose and how to repair it would be much appreciated.

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After I drove today I checked to see if I can find fresh oil. I don't see any by the oil cap yet. But I did get fresh wet oil on the bottom of the clamp on that big pipe/hose. I was able to tighten clamp screw probably a full turn felt like i could have gone more. But thought I heard some crackling so I stopped. Maybe the hose is cracked underneath. I don't know. I wiped it down again. Going to see if it gets wet next time I go for a drive. If it's wet again, I may want to unclamp the hose and see if anything is damaged or cracked under the clamp. I dont understand how oil can be coming out if its clamped down unless it just wasnt tight enough or is cracked. Can I unplug that plug that's connected to that big hose/pipe without any problems? Sorry I don't know the names of these parts lol
Yes you can unplug, no issue.
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If in fact it is coming from the throttle body, it is probably the PCV.

www.Cruzekits.com
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New clutch and flywheel. 2012 cruze eco with 68,000 miles. Was told guy before me beat the **** out of it. Turns out it wasnt leaking from a seal it was leaking from thre flywheel. Also had the gm valve cover put on. Running amsoil 5w30 now. Clutch is so soft I could push it with my fingers. Car still shifts like a dream. Seems as if the pcv system was fine.
2011-2016 Cruze 1.4L PCV Valve Cover/Intake Manifold Issues

Video:
I made a video to help better explain how this whole PCV system works to supplement this article.


Overview
I find myself having to explain this issue to someone almost daily, so in the interest of brevity, I'm creating a thread specifically for people to reference quickly if they have an issue.

The Cruze 1.4L Turbo engine has a terrible PCV check valve design that afflicts 100% of cars I have come across. It's not a matter of if, but when, it will fail. There are three primary components to this system that frequently fail: the PCV regulator diaphragm (some people call it a check valve) on the valve cover, the check valve in the intake manifold, and the corrugated hose going from the intake manifold to the turbo. We will focus on the first two, which are the most likely failures.


Symptoms
Depending on how long you've had this issue, your vehicle may throw a check engine light with any or all of the following codes (DTCs):
P0171
P0106
P1101
P0507
P0299
P2096


Note: lack of check engine light does not mean everything is operating correctly!

Your vehicle may also exhibit any or all of the following symptoms:
  • Elevated oil consumption
  • Smoke blowing through the tail pipe
  • A hissing sound in the engine bay
  • A rough/stumbling idle
  • Loss of power
  • Reduced fuel economy


Diagnosis
Valve Cover
With the engine running, inspect the vent on the PCV regulator diaphragm. The PCV regulator diaphragm has a round non-removable cap on the driver side of the valve cover. Remove the cosmetic cover off of the valve cover:


Underneath, you'll find the cap that covers the PCV regulator diaphragm. If this has failed, the engine will be sucking in air from here, and creating a hissing sound. Place your finger over this hole to cover it. If the engine RPMs change or the hissing stops, the valve cover needs to be replaced.


DON'T STOP THERE! Failure of the valve cover PCV regulator diaphragm may only be a symptom of a greater problem: the PCV check valve in the intake manifold. If the intake manifold PCV check valve has failed and you only replace the valve cover, you will find yourself replacing valve covers every few months not knowing why.


Intake Manifold PCV Check Valve
With the engine off, locate the corrugated hose coming out of the top of the PCV check valve:


With tightly gripped pliers, remove the clip holding the hose off by pulling it out:


Pull the corrugated hose off from the base, taking care not to pull from the hose itself as it may crack or tear. Using a flashlight, look inside the hole. If you are facing the engine bay from the front, there should be an orange/pink/peach nipple/valve on the "back" of that hole that looks like this:


If you don't see that check valve, use q-tips and rubbing alcohol to clean that area and check again. If you still don't see it, this must be addressed.

There's one final part that needs to be checked:


PCV Hose/Valve
In the last section, you need to remove a hose from the intake manifold. That hose has another check valve at the other end of it; at the turbo inlet. To verify its functionality, blow into the hose; it should blow freely. Suck air back through the hose; it should completely block airflow. If it doesn't do either of these, the whole thing needs to be replaced. Those hose also has a tendency to become brittle and crack, at which point it will also need replacing. Be sure to check this hose everywhere if you suspect it is leaking or are hearing a hissing sound in the engine bay.


Repair Solutions
Both of the above components are covered under your powertrain warranty. If your car is still under powertrain warranty, bring your car to the dealer and tell your dealer you are experiencing oil consumption of one quart per 1,000 miles and to reference GM Bulletin PIP5197C.

If the PCV regulator diaphragm on the valve cover has failed, replacement is required and will cost ~$60. Refer to this tutorial for replacing the valve cover. How-To: Replace the Valve/Camshaft Cover (1.4L Turbo)

If the check valve on the intake manifold is missing, you have three options:
1. You can replace the intake manifold with a new one. As of late early 2018, GM is phasing out the intake manifold that ships with all accessories and is selling a bare intake manifold. I don't yet have the part number for that.
2. Dorman has begun releasing an option. However, this option has the same check valve design as the GM manifold, meaning it will be prone to failure and boost leaks, and is not serviceable. The part number is 615-380, but availability is currently limited.
3. You can install one of my Intake Manifold PCV check valve fix kits for as little as $85, which is much cheaper than the Dorman intake (after shipping) while providing you a more robust, leak-free, and durable check valve. My external check valve design allows for easy (doesn't require removal of the intake manifold) servicing and cleaning, and inexpensive replacement. Details are in this thread: GM 1.4L Turbo Intake Manifold PCV Valve Fix Kits

A tutorial for removing the intake manifold is located here: How-To: Remove 2011-2016 Cruze 1.4L Intake Manifold

If the check valve at the turbo inlet has malfunctioned or the hose is cracked, you will need to replace it: ACDelco 25193343 PCV Pipe with Valve


Resources
To learn more about this engine's PCV system, refer to the following thread: 2011-2016 Cruze Limited 1.4L PCV System Explained
This explanation of the PVC system is the best I have seen. Thank you.
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Today I finished my daughter's care. Replaced valve cover and gasket as well as the version 1 kit. The car runs really well. very responsive. I drove it for a while. I can't see any oil leaking from the front of the motor as before. There appears to be some oil burning off but I can't tell yet if it's just burning off old oil or is leaking new oil. On a side note, It appears to have a really loud lifter, sounds like its coming from the intake side of the engine. I don't know if this was happening before. I have attached a link to a video of the noise. Please take a look and let me know what you think.
Hey guys, I'll be sending out this as an e-mail to everyone that ordered the kit, but figured I'd share this here as well.

I wanted to take a brief moment to share some tips on maintaining the PCV system with my PCV fix kit installed. The initial goal behind designing this DIY fix kit for the 1.4L Turbo PCV system was to create a more affordable, more durable alternative to repeatedly replacing the intake manifold. Through prolonged use, testing, and feedback from the community, I'd like to share some simple steps that can be taken to ensure that the PCV system and the fix kit continue to operate reliably for years to come.
  • For the V1/V2 kits, the check valve in the kit is very durable and should function reliably with no maintenance required for at least 100,000 miles, after which I do reccomend inspection. There have been no reports of failures.
  • Some community members have noticed the PCV system tends to get a little dirty around the cylinder head. To check for this, remove the corrugated/accordion hose connector from on top of the intake manifold and have a look inside to make sure the area looks generally clean. A bit of orange residue is OK, especially during winter driving. This is just condensation mixed with oil.
  • Specific to the V2 kit: the brake booster tee fitting should be periodically checked and cleaned (if necessary) to ensure it flows freely and that the PCV system and brake booster continue to function properly. So far, reports have shown it to be clean and clear at 100,000 miles. A good start would be checking it at every oil change, then adjusting thereafter. A bit of condensation is normal, but if you find those parts do need cleaning, you can use a small pipe brush/straw cleaner or a pipe cleaner (the kind kids use for arts and crafts).
  • To ensure the valve cover is working correctly (aside from the potential for an occasional vacuum regulator failure), check for excessive vacuum by pulling the dipstick while the engine is idling. The engine should be sucking air in through the dipstick, but it shouldn't be difficult to pull the dipstick out.
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I'm Turkish, it's not known here but how much should normal oil consumption be?

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I'm Turkish, it's not known here but how much should normal oil consumption be?
One liter or less every 8,000km in my opinion.

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So had this issue (intake manifold check valve and the valve cover) less than 4 months. I removed the intake manifold and ported it as well as installed the pcv fix kit v2 and replaced the valve over with a Dorman one. Was working fine, and I hadn't noticed that it gradually was getting worse again until I went to go give my car a little hpt tuneup, saw my fueling was way off, boost was funky etc. Shortly after a small surging idle issue is now swaying 250 rpm back and forth. I thought maybe it was my tuning so I played with it and it's a no go. Set it all back and now the hissing and a ticking when it dips in idle to its lower rpm range. The main seal needs to be replaced now. But my issue is that the f***ING diaphragm is leaking again. Constant hiss and idle stabilizes a bit when the hole is covered. Some bs. Why he hell would the valve cover break again this quickly? Grrr.

I still have my old one laying around and am going to see if there is not a way to retrofit a fix for it similar to what was done for the intake manifold. There has to be a way to make this thing a little more durable.
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So had this issue (intake manifold check valve and the valve cover) less than 4 months. I removed the intake manifold and ported it as well as installed the pcv fix kit v2 and replaced the valve over with a Dorman one. Was working fine, and I hadn't noticed that it gradually was getting worse again until I went to go give my car a little hpt tuneup, saw my fueling was way off, boost was funky etc. Shortly after a small surging idle issue is now swaying 250 rpm back and forth. I thought maybe it was my tuning so I played with it and it's a no go. Set it all back and now the hissing and a ticking when it dips in idle to its lower rpm range. The main seal needs to be replaced now. But my issue is that the f***ING diaphragm is leaking again. Constant hiss and idle stabilizes a bit when the hole is covered. Some bs. Why he hell would the valve cover break again this quickly? Grrr.

I still have my old one laying around and am going to see if there is not a way to retrofit a fix for it similar to what was done for the intake manifold. There has to be a way to make this thing a little more durable.
I would double check to make sure the old PVC hole(s) are fully closed off.
I am sure it is; I was very liberal with the epoxy on both sides of the IM. But I will check again and re-apply. I would be surprised with how I put it on and left it to dry that it would leak again, but always worth checking. I am going to be replacing the corrugated tube in a few minutes with actual proper tubing just to rule it out, as well as replace the o-ring(s?) at both ends of the hose. I got some of them good hose too. (haha!)
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