I forgot about the hose. I also had issues with that, especially after I lost the washer thing when I pulled the clip too far out.
I forgot about the hose. I also had issues with that, especially after I lost the washer thing when I pulled the clip too far out.I am sure it is; I was very liberal with the epoxy on both sides of the IM. But I will check again and re-apply. I would be surprised with how I put it on and left it to dry that it would leak again, but always worth checking. I am going to be replacing the corrugated tube in a few minutes with actual proper tubing just to rule it out, as well as replace the o-ring(s?) at both ends of the hose. I got some of them good hose too. (haha!)
It is just a silicone thumb sticking out from the mushroom part. Cut it off, push it through, how ever you can. It is just basically a friction fit. It will fall into the intake and be eaten by the engine.I've got a stupid question. I know I'm headed for a kit, probably V3. My question is, if you still see the red thingy, how do you install this kit. Right now a good cleaning seems to have solved my issue, but I've got 80,000 plus on the car, clock is ticking on my PCV.
Don't do that. I specifically recommend against adding more epoxy. Less is better in this case. Adding too much epoxy may cause it to flake off over time due to exposure with water and petroleum products. Epoxy works best as a bonding adhesive between two surfaces. All you need is a good glob of it on the V of the clip, or on the thread of the screw (V1/V2.1 kits).Yeah. That this is an sob to get on and off without losing or breaking something. So far, I got both ends off, cut, and threaded and epoxied tips to them. Hose is cut to length. That part will go quick. I also cleaned up the screw plugging the hole, and but some more expoxy on there while I was there. There is sludge in the old hose though. I am thinking condensation, as I have no signs of coolant anywhere entering the hose. I am happy to say there is like zero oil in my turbo inlet where the hose connects. It;s a little slick, but not enough to really even see, so that's good.
Word. Well, I did add a little to it, not much though. I for sure did not go overboard. I am pretty sure that wasn't leaking anyway. I did axe the corrugated hose and use a good solid piece of fuel line with an fittings. It's hooked up and I was driving it. It sounds a littttlle better, and for sure the hissing sound dropped dramatically, and it doesn't surge idle anywhere near as bad. So, I am generally plussed. I am about to take off the DDM heatshield and inspect everything else that I can while I am already digging around, as well as take my tune back to stock and see if it does the same, then gradually add my torque, fueling, cam timing, etc back. I am thinking it's a combo of my vve tables and the temp change out here and a couple of vacuum/boost leaks. I don't have a boost leak kit and cannot buy one right now, so I will just be able to check the basics. I got an exhaust leak somwhere's too, so might as well just check it all. Lol. Good thing I like working on cars.Don't do that. I specifically recommend against adding more epoxy. Less is better in this case. Adding too much epoxy may cause it to flake off over time due to exposure with water and petroleum products. Epoxy works best as a bonding adhesive between two surfaces. All you need is a good glob of it on the V of the clip, or on the thread of the screw (V1/V2.1 kits).
Can you further explain what you did with that corrugated hose?Word. Well, I did add a little to it, not much though. I for sure did not go overboard. I am pretty sure that wasn't leaking anyway. I did axe the corrugated hose and use a good solid piece of fuel line with an fittings. It's hooked up and I was driving it. It sounds a littttlle better, and for sure the hissing sound dropped dramatically, and it doesn't surge idle anywhere near as bad. So, I am generally plussed. I am about to take off the DDM heatshield and inspect everything else that I can while I am already digging around, as well as take my tune back to stock and see if it does the same, then gradually add my torque, fueling, cam timing, etc back. I am thinking it's a combo of my vve tables and the temp change out here and a couple of vacuum/boost leaks. I don't have a boost leak kit and cannot buy one right now, so I will just be able to check the basics. I got an exhaust leak somwhere's too, so might as well just check it all. Lol. Good thing I like working on cars.![]()
For tuning idle, you guys got any tips? I cannot really find anything for these cars. I don't care what tuning platform. Doesn't matter to me. Still tuning the same ECU/engine. For the record, I am using HPT.
Absolutely. I got the hose 3 inches from the connector at each end. With the two hose connectors in hand, I then measured a piece of rubber hose (actually it's fuel line) that was a couple of inches longer than the corrugated one.Can you further explain what you did with that corrugated hose?
Sent from my BlackBerry Key2 using Tapatalk
Do a boost leak test. Figure out where your leak is.Okay so I am battling the dreaded P0299 code. Not my first time getting this code! Got it a year ago and replaced the exhaust manifold and turbo cause mine was cracked. That worked for over a year and now I’m getting it again. Checked with a camera thru the O2 sensor hole. No cracks this time. Found this forum....started reading and reading and reading and more reading! Found that my valve cover was hissing from the PVC. Replaced valve cover, still getting the code. Replaced the “corrugated hose”....still have the code. Checked for the orange nipple in the intake...it’s still there. Checked the one way valves by sucking and blowing into lines and that works fine. Replaced the inlet and outlet turbo hoses, the MAP sensor, the turbo sensor on the outlet turbo hose. Still giving me the code P0299. I’m out of ideas and could use some expert advice and help!!! 2014 Cruze LT 115000 miles.
2011-2016 Cruze 1.4L PCV Valve Cover/Intake Manifold Issues
Video:
I made a video to help better explain how this whole PCV system works to supplement this article.
Overview
I find myself having to explain this issue to someone almost daily, so in the interest of brevity, I'm creating a thread specifically for people to reference quickly if they have an issue.
The Cruze 1.4L Turbo engine has a terrible PCV check valve design that afflicts 100% of cars I have come across. It's not a matter of if, but when, it will fail. There are three primary components to this system that frequently fail: the PCV regulator diaphragm (some people call it a check valve) on the valve cover, the check valve in the intake manifold, and the corrugated hose going from the intake manifold to the turbo. We will focus on the first two, which are the most likely failures.
Symptoms
Depending on how long you've had this issue, your vehicle may throw a check engine light with any or all of the following codes (DTCs):
P0171
P0106
P1101
P0507
P0299
P2096
Note: lack of check engine light does not mean everything is operating correctly!
Your vehicle may also exhibit any or all of the following symptoms:
- Elevated oil consumption
- Smoke blowing through the tail pipe
- A hissing sound in the engine bay
- A rough/stumbling idle
- Loss of power
- Reduced fuel economy
Diagnosis
Valve Cover
With the engine running, inspect the vent on the PCV regulator diaphragm. The PCV regulator diaphragm has a round non-removable cap on the driver side of the valve cover. Remove the cosmetic cover off of the valve cover:
![]()
Underneath, you'll find the cap that covers the PCV regulator diaphragm. If this has failed, the engine will be sucking in air from here, and creating a hissing sound. Place your finger over this hole to cover it. If the engine RPMs change or the hissing stops, the valve cover needs to be replaced.
![]()
DON'T STOP THERE! Failure of the valve cover PCV regulator diaphragm may only be a symptom of a greater problem: the PCV check valve in the intake manifold. If the intake manifold PCV check valve has failed and you only replace the valve cover, you will find yourself replacing valve covers every few months not knowing why.
Intake Manifold PCV Check Valve
With the engine off, locate the corrugated hose coming out of the top of the PCV check valve:
![]()
With tightly gripped pliers, remove the clip holding the hose off by pulling it out:
![]()
Pull the corrugated hose off from the base, taking care not to pull from the hose itself as it may crack or tear. Using a flashlight, look inside the hole. If you are facing the engine bay from the front, there should be an orange/pink/peach nipple/valve on the "back" of that hole that looks like this:
![]()
If you don't see that check valve, use q-tips and rubbing alcohol to clean that area and check again. If you still don't see it, this must be addressed.
There's one final part that needs to be checked:
PCV Hose/Valve
In the last section, you need to remove a hose from the intake manifold. That hose has another check valve at the other end of it; at the turbo inlet. To verify its functionality, blow into the hose; it should blow freely. Suck air back through the hose; it should completely block airflow. If it doesn't do either of these, the whole thing needs to be replaced. Those hose also has a tendency to become brittle and crack, at which point it will also need replacing. Be sure to check this hose everywhere if you suspect it is leaking or are hearing a hissing sound in the engine bay.
Repair Solutions
Both of the above components are covered under your powertrain warranty. If your car is still under powertrain warranty, bring your car to the dealer and tell your dealer you are experiencing oil consumption of one quart per 1,000 miles and to reference GM Bulletin PIP5197C.
If the PCV regulator diaphragm on the valve cover has failed, replacement is required and will cost ~$60. Refer to this tutorial for replacing the valve cover. How-To: Replace the Valve/Camshaft Cover (1.4L Turbo)
If the check valve on the intake manifold is missing, you have three options:
1. You can replace the intake manifold with a new one. As of late early 2018, GM is phasing out the intake manifold that ships with all accessories and is selling a bare intake manifold. I don't yet have the part number for that.
2. Dorman has begun releasing an option. However, this option has the same check valve design as the GM manifold, meaning it will be prone to failure and boost leaks, and is not serviceable. The part number is 615-380, but availability is currently limited.
3. You can install one of my Intake Manifold PCV check valve fix kits for as little as $85, which is much cheaper than the Dorman intake (after shipping) while providing you a more robust, leak-free, and durable check valve. My external check valve design allows for easy (doesn't require removal of the intake manifold) servicing and cleaning, and inexpensive replacement. Details are in this thread: GM 1.4L Turbo Intake Manifold PCV Valve Fix Kits
A tutorial for removing the intake manifold is located here: How-To: Remove 2011-2016 Cruze 1.4L Intake Manifold
If the check valve at the turbo inlet has malfunctioned or the hose is cracked, you will need to replace it: ACDelco 25193343 PCV Pipe with Valve
Im literally having my intake manifold replaced as we speak ..ive had my2011 1.4L turbo cruze since 2014 im just hitting 200k i got it at 70k i love the car just wonder if this car has head gasket issues or anything else
Resources
To learn more about this engine's PCV system, refer to the following thread: 2011-2016 Cruze Limited 1.4L PCV System Explained
Their manifold is an OEM Manifold that's been ported. No other modifications. So it will last just as long as a new OEM manifold but with more power.Does anyone know anything about ZZ Performance Ported Intake?
And if their fix actually works and lasts longer than the OEM manifold?
![]()
1.4L Ported Intake Manifold
This is based on a brand new OEM GM intake manifold. This is also a great upgrade since the factory PCV is known to fail as much as it does. The PCV is located inside the intake manifold and is included with this product. Bolts directly back into stock location. The factory casts a "wall" in...zzperformance.com
Welcome Aboard!Does anyone know anything about ZZ Performance Ported Intake?
And if their fix actually works and lasts longer than the OEM manifold?
![]()
1.4L Ported Intake Manifold
This is based on a brand new OEM GM intake manifold. This is also a great upgrade since the factory PCV is known to fail as much as it does. The PCV is located inside the intake manifold and is included with this product. Bolts directly back into stock location. The factory casts a "wall" in...zzperformance.com
Their manifold is an OEM Manifold that's been ported. No other modifications. So it will last just as long as a new OEM manifold but with more power.
Sent from my BlackBerry Key2 using Tapatalk
Well sorry, but you need to.I just don't like the idea of changing the valve cover just because of the breather.