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2011-2016 Cruze 1.4 PCV Valve Cover/Intake Manifold Issues

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2011-2016 Cruze 1.4L PCV Valve Cover/Intake Manifold Issues

Video:
I made a video to help better explain how this whole PCV system works to supplement this article.


Overview
I find myself having to explain this issue to someone almost daily, so in the interest of brevity, I'm creating a thread specifically for people to reference quickly if they have an issue.

The Cruze 1.4L Turbo engine has a terrible PCV check valve design that afflicts 100% of cars I have come across. It's not a matter of if, but when, it will fail. There are three primary components to this system that frequently fail: the PCV regulator diaphragm (some people call it a check valve) on the valve cover, the check valve in the intake manifold, and the corrugated hose going from the intake manifold to the turbo. We will focus on the first two, which are the most likely failures.


Symptoms
Depending on how long you've had this issue, your vehicle may throw a check engine light with any or all of the following codes (DTCs):
P0171
P0106
P1101
P0507
P0299
P2096


Note: lack of check engine light does not mean everything is operating correctly!

Your vehicle may also exhibit any or all of the following symptoms:
  • Elevated oil consumption
  • Smoke blowing through the tail pipe
  • A hissing sound in the engine bay
  • A rough/stumbling idle
  • Loss of power
  • Reduced fuel economy


Diagnosis
Valve Cover
With the engine running, inspect the vent on the PCV regulator diaphragm. The PCV regulator diaphragm has a round non-removable cap on the driver side of the valve cover. Remove the cosmetic cover off of the valve cover:


Underneath, you'll find the cap that covers the PCV regulator diaphragm. If this has failed, the engine will be sucking in air from here, and creating a hissing sound. Place your finger over this hole to cover it. If the engine RPMs change or the hissing stops, the valve cover needs to be replaced.


DON'T STOP THERE! Failure of the valve cover PCV regulator diaphragm may only be a symptom of a greater problem: the PCV check valve in the intake manifold. If the intake manifold PCV check valve has failed and you only replace the valve cover, you will find yourself replacing valve covers every few months not knowing why.


Intake Manifold PCV Check Valve
With the engine off, locate the corrugated hose coming out of the top of the PCV check valve:


With tightly gripped pliers, remove the clip holding the hose off by pulling it out:


Pull the corrugated hose off from the base, taking care not to pull from the hose itself as it may crack or tear. Using a flashlight, look inside the hole. If you are facing the engine bay from the front, there should be an orange/pink/peach nipple/valve on the "back" of that hole that looks like this:


If you don't see that check valve, use q-tips and rubbing alcohol to clean that area and check again. If you still don't see it, this must be addressed.

There's one final part that needs to be checked:


PCV Hose/Valve
In the last section, you need to remove a hose from the intake manifold. That hose has another check valve at the other end of it; at the turbo inlet. To verify its functionality, blow into the hose; it should blow freely. Suck air back through the hose; it should completely block airflow. If it doesn't do either of these, the whole thing needs to be replaced. Those hose also has a tendency to become brittle and crack, at which point it will also need replacing. Be sure to check this hose everywhere if you suspect it is leaking or are hearing a hissing sound in the engine bay.


Repair Solutions
Both of the above components are covered under your powertrain warranty. If your car is still under powertrain warranty, bring your car to the dealer and tell your dealer you are experiencing oil consumption of one quart per 1,000 miles and to reference GM Bulletin PIP5197C.

If the PCV regulator diaphragm on the valve cover has failed, replacement is required and will cost ~$60. Refer to this tutorial for replacing the valve cover. How-To: Replace the Valve/Camshaft Cover (1.4L Turbo)

If the check valve on the intake manifold is missing, you have three options:
1. You can replace the intake manifold with a new one. As of late early 2018, GM is phasing out the intake manifold that ships with all accessories and is selling a bare intake manifold. I don't yet have the part number for that.
2. Dorman has begun releasing an option. However, this option has the same check valve design as the GM manifold, meaning it will be prone to failure and boost leaks, and is not serviceable. The part number is 615-380, but availability is currently limited.
3. You can install one of my Intake Manifold PCV check valve fix kits for as little as $75, which is much cheaper than the Dorman intake (after shipping) while providing you a more robust, leak-free, and durable check valve. My external check valve design allows for easy (doesn't require removal of the intake manifold) servicing and cleaning, and inexpensive replacement. Details are in this thread: GM 1.4L Turbo Intake Manifold PCV Valve Fix Kits

A tutorial for removing the intake manifold is located here: How-To: Remove 2011-2016 Cruze 1.4L Intake Manifold

If the check valve at the turbo inlet has malfunctioned or the hose is cracked, you will need to replace it: ACDelco 25193343 PCV Pipe with Valve


Resources
To learn more about this engine's PCV system, refer to the following thread: 2011-2016 Cruze Limited 1.4L PCV System Explained

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I just ordered the V3 kit 10 minutes ago and earlier I thought I saw a kit of some sort for the breather portion on the valve cover. Has anyone seen something like that somewhere that can share it?
I saw the oil fill cap breather piece but it said it only fits '16-'18 and I have a '14, I just don't like the idea of changing the valve cover just because of the breather. I should clarify that this is for a Buick Encore, same system as the Cruze though.
A breather has no place or purpose on these cars. Furthermore, the failure of the vacuum regulator diaphragm on the valve cover cannot be resolved with a breather.

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if only gm's turbos were as good as their super chargers
Hello,

2014 Chevy Cruze 1.4L with 29,000 miles. I'm getting a CEL with code P0171.
I think it might be a failure of the diaphragm on my valve cover but I have a few questions.

1) When I put my thumb over that small opening to the PCV diaphragm I can feel a very slight suction. There's also a low sort of whistle sound when I put my thumb over the opening. I'm not noticing any change in RPMs when I do this. Does this still indicate a failure of the diaphragm?

2) I removed the corrugated plastic hose and I see the orange bit for the check valve nipple and also verified the check valve on the other end is working (air only blew one way). Is it still possible for the diaphragm to fail by itself even if the check valves are working?

Thanks in advance.
Hello,

2014 Chevy Cruze 1.4L with 29,000 miles. I'm getting a CEL with code P0171.
I think it might be a failure of the diaphragm on my valve cover but I have a few questions.

1) When I put my thumb over that small opening to the PCV diaphragm I can feel a very slight suction. There's also a low sort of whistle sound when I put my thumb over the opening. I'm not noticing any change in RPMs when I do this. Does this still indicate a failure of the diaphragm?

2) I removed the corrugated plastic hose and I see the orange bit for the check valve nipple and also verified the check valve on the other end is working (air only blew one way). Is it still possible for the diaphragm to fail by itself even if the check valves are working?

Thanks in advance.
Yes. Your valve cover has failed.

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Thanks. I was about to do the repair myself when I saw the post about the special adjustment cover replacement. I never received a letter about it. Sure glad this site is around to help.

Yes. Your valve cover has failed.

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After they fix the valve cover, consider installing the fix kit to preempt another failed valve cover.
The good news is you can do this for a lot cheaper. Just order my PCV kit and you'll save a good $150 on the intake manifold cost. Order a valve cover from one of the links around here for about $60 and you can fix it all yourself for a lot less than the dealer is charging. These are all very common failures but they're also very well documented and there are tutorials for both so you can do it yourself.

I've shipped 104 of these PCV kits and nobody has had any issues installing these in their cars with some basic tools, so I'm sure you'll be able to do it just fine.

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I installed the fix kit V2 and now my car is smoking out the tail pipe...also I was sent the 3way adapter that connects to the brake vacuum but it wouldn’t clip onto the intake so...any advice would be very useful and also very helpful
I installed the fix kit V2 and now my car is smoking out the tail pipe...also I was sent the 3way adapter that connects to the brake vacuum but it wouldn’t clip onto the intake so...any advice would be very useful and also very helpful
Most likely a defective valve cover. Also, the v2 kit was updated to the v2.1 (and I have a conversion kit available on the site) which doesn't use the brake booster tee (to eliminate the maintenance requirement of cleaning it over time). Make sure the check valve is pointing in the right direction.

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Most likely a defective valve cover. Also, the v2 kit was updated to the v2.1 (and I have a conversion kit available on the site) which doesn't use the brake booster tee (to eliminate the maintenance requirement of cleaning it over time). Make sure the check valve is pointing in the right direction.

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I got the valve pointed away from throttle body towards the passenger side of the car...I’m hoping it is the valve cover because I got it from auto zone and found out that those can have some defect in them
I got the valve pointed away from throttle body towards the passenger side of the car...I’m hoping it is the valve cover because I got it from auto zone and found out that those can have some defect in them
Should be pointing toward the throttle body; toward the driver side. You've got a huge boost leak now.

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I got the valve pointed away from throttle body towards the passenger side of the car...I’m hoping it is the valve cover because I got it from auto zone and found out that those can have some defect in them
I got the valve pointed away from throttle body towards the passenger side of the car...I’m hoping it is the valve cover because I got it from auto zone and found out that those can have some defect in them
[ and I plan to get another valve cam cover next week...I just bought the 2011 just over two months ago and only drove it a month before issues so now I’m stuck waiting to get paid and also hopeing I can figure it out before I go and by all new parts...all I did was change the oil because I just bought it with cash straight up $5k and I was taught to change the oil when you buy a new used car to check it and so on...but ya, changed oil..oil air separator on valve cover went out and was sucking air...I bought a new valve cam cover from auto zone not knowing about this car and oil leaks everywhere...even through my turbo into my exhaust...I believe I have a lot of crankcase pressure because the oil cap dang near flew away when I took it off while running to see if it had suction, which it did not...which is causing the turbo to not drain the oil back through the return line...I replaced the oil return line with no luck...and stuck between just taking a shot gun too it and setting it on fire and making s’mores or spending even more money on a car I expected to be a nice car (which it is a great car when I can go down the road, I love the car) but I been working on it for a month and am just becoming burned out on taking it apart and back together...it’s a headache...I think I fixed it and start it up and bam...oil everywhere from valve cam cover to leaking through the turbo now...it’s my family car so I have took great car of it for the month I drove back and forth to Colorado twice...800mile o
So you are saying it needs to feed back to the intake not out of the intake manifold
Yes. Needs to feed into the intake, not out. If it feeds out, all its doing is leaking boost. Intake manifold needs to be able to suck in PCV Gas.

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Yes. Needs to feed into the intake, not out. If it feeds out, all its doing is leaking boost. Intake manifold needs to be able to suck in PCV Gas.

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okay, so the hose that goes from intake to the turbo is suppose to have the one way flowing into the intake? Not from the intake to to the turbo? ......I put another cam cover on that is a gm one and that fixed the smoking issue...now my gas mileage is horrible like 9mpg in town and 14mpg on highway so if what your saying is correct then maybe this is my issue
okay, so the hose that goes from intake to the turbo is suppose to have the one way flowing into the intake? Not from the intake to to the turbo? ......I put another cam cover on that is a gm one and that fixed the smoking issue...now my gas mileage is horrible like 9mpg in town and 14mpg on highway so if what your saying is correct then maybe this is my issue
the one way is at the bottom side of intake that runs to brake booster with the Y adapter...the one way is between intake and Y adapter and I have it flowing towards the Y adapter out of intake! So I need to turn the one way around and point it towards intake (where the hole I made for the fix kit 2.1v is)?
Could anyone @XtremeRevolution explain exactly how the PCV diaphragm regulates the pressure inside of the crankcase? I'm trying to figure out if it would be possible to leak intake vacuum INTO the crankcase WITHOUT the diaphragm leaking externally. If that makes sense.... Thanks!
The PCV valve in the intake does not leak externally, it fails and allows the vacuum/boost become unregulated in the engine. Instead of a valve, it basically becomes a hole. An external leak may be eventually caused by this valve failing as it allows the block to become over pressurized and possibly blowing out the valve cover gasket, causing the oil cap to open, the front crank seal fail, the oil pan gasket to fail etc.
The PCV valve in the intake does not leak externally, it fails and allows the vacuum/boost become unregulated in the engine. Instead of a valve, it basically becomes a hole. An external leak may be eventually caused by this valve failing as it allows the block to become over pressurized and possibly blowing out the valve cover gasket, causing the oil cap to open, the front crank seal fail, the oil pan gasket to fail etc.
I'm not asking about the check valve in the intake manifold. I'm asking about the PCV diaphragm in the valve cover.
Could anyone @XtremeRevolution explain exactly how the PCV diaphragm regulates the pressure inside of the crankcase? I'm trying to figure out if it would be possible to leak intake vacuum INTO the crankcase WITHOUT the diaphragm leaking externally. If that makes sense.... Thanks!
Yes, it is possible to fail in such a way that excess vacuum is applied to the crankcase. I see it quite often. No leak at the vent but the dipstick is so stuck in there that it's like trying to pop a Cork out of a bottle.

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Yes, it is possible to fail in such a way that excess vacuum is applied to the crankcase. I see it quite often. No leak at the vent but the dipstick is so stuck in there that it's like trying to pop a Cork out of a bottle.

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Thanks for the reply.
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