[horaa]

I'm gonna take vacuum from another side of the intake after the throttle body and put a check valve on the line, easy as a pie and much cheaper. You can ship them to romania but i need it now not in 4 weeks. If you look closely i already have a fitting on the intake after the throttle body for the LPG, already found on the junkyard T and Y fitting along rubber hoses and a few very good check valves aswell that fits like a charm

 

[Thebigzeus]

I'm gonna take vacuum from another side of the intake after the throttle body and put a check valve on the line, easy as a pie and much cheaper. You can ship them to romania but i need it now not in 4 weeks. If you look closely i already have a fitting on the intake after the throttle body for the LPG, already found on the junkyard T and Y fitting along rubber hoses and a few very good check valves aswell that fits like a charm

I wondered what those mess of tubes was, anyway, hope it works for ya.

 

[XtremeRevolution]

I'm gonna take vacuum from another side of the intake after the throttle body and put a check valve on the line, easy as a pie and much cheaper. You can ship them to romania but i need it now not in 4 weeks. If you look closely i already have a fitting on the intake after the throttle body for the LPG, already found on the junkyard T and Y fitting along rubber hoses and a few very good check valves aswell that fits like a charm

Careful on the check valve crack pressure. Needs to be less than 1PSI crack pressure.

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[horaa]

And this is the fix, it just needs tiding it up after i will have installed the intake manifold. For now i will let the selftapping screw with a rubber washer to do it's magic for 24 hours alongside the bicomponent plastic glue (metal color, i bought it when i had a headless bolt on the cover of timing chain and it failed, actually it isn't for metal) from bison. I have already used this glue before when i changed the valve cover diaphragm and i can break the plastic cover but not the glue.
If you're asking about the price: actually this one was literally ZERO aka for free. I was thinking of some other system with metal t fitting and so on but it was much hassle because i couldn't find any suitable hoses without except online. The check valve is from VW and trust me, it's much smoother compared to the ones from GM. If this fails i will revisit the system with the gm check valve and bigger hoses but for the time i hope this one works. The brass hose fitting was given from the LPG guys as a gift, they should usually costs like 10-15 cents at best, M6 fillet wich should be 1/4" in imperial units as far i remember. The hose split vacuum us from the injectors thingie because i can just unplug the y fitting and plug the hose back into it.
The only reason why i don't agree with the V3 kit is because the intake manifold was holding a lot of oil in it in that bell area(probably it ran without the nipple for a few years now). Like litterally a pint of oil and not many of the buyers are flexible enough to unclip the hose and spray a full bottle of brake cleaner inside to make the oil fluid so it would flow and not wait 5 hours for it to drip.
PS: i forgot to take a pic of the screw and the plastic washer so i uploaded the pic of the screw i had laying around from an online catalog.

 

[horaa]

And done, reinstalled everything, works like a charm now.

 

[XtremeRevolution]

And done, reinstalled everything, works like a charm now.

I want to reiterate, it will run, but not at optimal levels if the check valve crack pressure is too high.

Keep an eye on the glue you used. I've talked to engineers at multiple adhesives companies and the application is not so simple due to exposure to temperature extremes, water/moisture, and petroleum products. What is the temperature rating of the glue you used?

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[horaa]

The crack pressure is ok, it's a check valve used from VW vacuum system, already tested it and it's working fine even pulled off the vacuum hose and it started to run a bit rougher but only time will tell. For now it works like a charm and the glue should hold up to 100+ degrees C

 

[XtremeRevolution]

The crack pressure is ok, it's a check valve used from VW vacuum system, already tested it and it's working fine even pulled off the vacuum hose and it started to run a bit rougher but only time will tell. For now it works like a charm and the glue should hold up to 100+ degrees C

Most of those VW check valves from the VW vac systems are not rated for PCV use. Crack pressure is indeed good but they're only intended for vacuum or EVAP line use, not PCV gas. I actually have a big bag of them here as I was testing valves for the v3 kit. I ended up not choosing them for this application as they wouldn't be durable long-term and would start leaking.

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[horaa]

Will see, if they start leaking i can replace it whenever i want. I can get like 1000 vw check valves if i want to just go and pull them and they fit better on the hoses. They are more common than the crap gm used.

 

[horaa]

Yesterday i have changed the manifold breather hose (the one with the check valve to the turbo) with one that i've already ordered from china since it was very cheap compared to the one that was on the car market. So far everything works as it should

 

[Baldrico1]

Hi can the orange check valve nipple in the intake manifold look like the picture but still cause issues? (Eg not seated properly or half of the valve missing and is there any way to check without removing intake) It is oily in there.Have rough idle, lack of power and blue smoke from exhaust. Corrugated hose can blow through and when sucked back it’s like you can feel a valve close but oily taste in mouth. Regulator diaphragm isn’t drawing any air. Do you think there are any other problems to check that would give similar symptoms?

 

[horaa]

It is normal to be oily, that’s the point. Take off the inlet pcv tube that goes towards the turbo and blow into it, it might also be bad.

 

[Baldrico1]

Thanks @horra that hose is working as should be. I can’t get a look at the car was towed to a garage but they are staff down with self isolating. Mechanic said it may be the turbo that’s away. Time they are being able to spend on it is limited.

 

[horaa]

Or piston rings, it could be anything at this point honestly

 

[Astra AC]

Hi Guys, hi @XtremeRevolution.
Great to see such a helpful community!
I recently got a lot of trouble with my Astra J 1.4 T A14NET. After some research in german boards I came across the PCV Fix Kits, now I need some help with diagnostics.
What happened:

Phase 1:
Under heavy load, the display showed "Fahrzeug demnächst warten".
The error log had the entry 'P0299'.
I ignored this error for some time.

Phase 2:
After a longer trip, Oil leaked from the valve cover gasket and the camshaft adjuster gasket, apparently under high pressure. A repair shop fixed this by replacing the to gaskets, but unfortunately I forgot to tell them about the error P0299 and they didn't check the error log.

Phase 3:
On another trip to Italy, the check engine lamp came on. I again checked the error log, this time the entry was
P0171 - System too lean, bank 1
P0106 -
Manifold absolute pressure (MAP) sensor/barometric pressure (BARO) sensor - range/performance problem

P1101 - Mass air flow (MAF) sensor - range/performance problem

I also noticed that the engine was sucking a lot of air through the small hole at the diaphragm inside the valve cover.
The engine ran unsteadily at idle, but quietly under load.
When I covered the hole inside the valve cover, the engine run more smoothly, but after like 15 seconds, a lot of smoke came out of the exhaust.

I stopped covering the hole, the smoke was gone, and I decided to continue driving as it was late in the night and I was already in Italy.

Phase 4:
On my way back, I worried about the engine and tried covering the hole again, but only partly. I hoped I could reduce the amount of air sucked in, so the mix wouldn't be too lean. After a few seconds, the exhaust again blew out a huge amount of smoke, but this time it didn't stop for maybe 30 seconds, so I decided to stop the engine and get the car back home by a towing service.

Right now the car is at a repair shop, but I'd rather try to fix it on my own.
I removed the corrugated hose, and couldn't see the orange thing. But there was really a lot of oil inside, so maybe I should clean it first.

I'm sure the diaphragm in the valve cover is broken, I suspect also the valve inside the intake manifold.
How would you proceed to further diagnose the problem?
Is there any explanation for the huge amount of smoke though the exhaust when covering the hole in the valve cover?

Btw., I already ordered the PCV Fix Kit.
Thanks in advance for your help!

 

[horaa]

There's nothing much else to diagnose. Replace the valve cover or the membrane(china 10$) and fix the intake manifold. The smoke will be gone after that.

 

[Astra AC]

Are there any tutorials on replacing the valve cover membrane only without destroying the plastic cover?
I've found the membrane as a spare part, but the cover seems to be glued/welded.

 

[XtremeRevolution]

Are there any tutorials on replacing the valve cover membrane only without destroying the plastic cover?
I've found the membrane as a spare part, but the cover seems to be glued/welded.

Not possible due to the kind of adhesive that would be required to seal it back on, and the difficulty of removing it cleanly. What you're looking at is for the 1.8L valve cover. Won't work on these engines.

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[Astra AC]

The description says it's for the 1.4L valve cover: Ventildeckel Reparatursatz Membran für Chevrolet Cruze Trax 25198874 55573746 | eBay
But I'm skeptical too.
I'll give it a try, can't make things worse.

 

[XtremeRevolution]

The description says it's for the 1.4L valve cover: Ventildeckel Reparatursatz Membran für Chevrolet Cruze Trax 25198874 55573746 | eBay
But I'm skeptical too.
I'll give it a try, can't make things worse.

That might be for other vendors to purchase to manufacture valve covers then.

But again, you've got two major issues.

1. Removing the existing diaphragm cleanly
2. Re-sealing the New diaphragm and the cap to the valve cover

Sealing the cap will be very difficult because of the operating temp, exposure to moisture/condensation, exposure to petroleum products, and exposure to exhaust byproducts. It's a very difficult environment to work with from an adhesive perspective.

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