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2011-2016 Cruze 1.4 PCV Valve Cover/Intake Manifold Issues

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2011-2016 Cruze 1.4L PCV Valve Cover/Intake Manifold Issues

Video:
I made a video to help better explain how this whole PCV system works to supplement this article.


Overview
I find myself having to explain this issue to someone almost daily, so in the interest of brevity, I'm creating a thread specifically for people to reference quickly if they have an issue.

The Cruze 1.4L Turbo engine has a terrible PCV check valve design that afflicts 100% of cars I have come across. It's not a matter of if, but when, it will fail. There are three primary components to this system that frequently fail: the PCV regulator diaphragm (some people call it a check valve) on the valve cover, the check valve in the intake manifold, and the corrugated hose going from the intake manifold to the turbo. We will focus on the first two, which are the most likely failures.


Symptoms
Depending on how long you've had this issue, your vehicle may throw a check engine light with any or all of the following codes (DTCs):
P0171
P0106
P1101
P0507
P0299
P2096


Note: lack of check engine light does not mean everything is operating correctly!

Your vehicle may also exhibit any or all of the following symptoms:
  • Elevated oil consumption
  • Smoke blowing through the tail pipe
  • A hissing sound in the engine bay
  • A rough/stumbling idle
  • Loss of power
  • Reduced fuel economy


Diagnosis
Valve Cover
With the engine running, inspect the vent on the PCV regulator diaphragm. The PCV regulator diaphragm has a round non-removable cap on the driver side of the valve cover. Remove the cosmetic cover off of the valve cover:


Underneath, you'll find the cap that covers the PCV regulator diaphragm. If this has failed, the engine will be sucking in air from here, and creating a hissing sound. Place your finger over this hole to cover it. If the engine RPMs change or the hissing stops, the valve cover needs to be replaced.


DON'T STOP THERE! Failure of the valve cover PCV regulator diaphragm may only be a symptom of a greater problem: the PCV check valve in the intake manifold. If the intake manifold PCV check valve has failed and you only replace the valve cover, you will find yourself replacing valve covers every few months not knowing why.


Intake Manifold PCV Check Valve
With the engine off, locate the corrugated hose coming out of the top of the PCV check valve:


With tightly gripped pliers, remove the clip holding the hose off by pulling it out:


Pull the corrugated hose off from the base, taking care not to pull from the hose itself as it may crack or tear. Using a flashlight, look inside the hole. If you are facing the engine bay from the front, there should be an orange/pink/peach nipple/valve on the "back" of that hole that looks like this:


If you don't see that check valve, use q-tips and rubbing alcohol to clean that area and check again. If you still don't see it, this must be addressed.

There's one final part that needs to be checked:


PCV Hose/Valve
In the last section, you need to remove a hose from the intake manifold. That hose has another check valve at the other end of it; at the turbo inlet. To verify its functionality, blow into the hose; it should blow freely. Suck air back through the hose; it should completely block airflow. If it doesn't do either of these, the whole thing needs to be replaced. Those hose also has a tendency to become brittle and crack, at which point it will also need replacing. Be sure to check this hose everywhere if you suspect it is leaking or are hearing a hissing sound in the engine bay.


Repair Solutions
Both of the above components are covered under your powertrain warranty. If your car is still under powertrain warranty, bring your car to the dealer and tell your dealer you are experiencing oil consumption of one quart per 1,000 miles and to reference GM Bulletin PIP5197C.

If the PCV regulator diaphragm on the valve cover has failed, replacement is required and will cost ~$60. Refer to this tutorial for replacing the valve cover. How-To: Replace the Valve/Camshaft Cover (1.4L Turbo)

If the check valve on the intake manifold is missing, you have three options:
1. You can replace the intake manifold with a new one. As of late early 2018, GM is phasing out the intake manifold that ships with all accessories and is selling a bare intake manifold. I don't yet have the part number for that.
2. Dorman has begun releasing an option. However, this option has the same check valve design as the GM manifold, meaning it will be prone to failure and boost leaks, and is not serviceable. The part number is 615-380, but availability is currently limited.
3. You can install one of my Intake Manifold PCV check valve fix kits for as little as $75, which is much cheaper than the Dorman intake (after shipping) while providing you a more robust, leak-free, and durable check valve. My external check valve design allows for easy (doesn't require removal of the intake manifold) servicing and cleaning, and inexpensive replacement. Details are in this thread: GM 1.4L Turbo Intake Manifold PCV Valve Fix Kits

A tutorial for removing the intake manifold is located here: How-To: Remove 2011-2016 Cruze 1.4L Intake Manifold

If the check valve at the turbo inlet has malfunctioned or the hose is cracked, you will need to replace it: ACDelco 25193343 PCV Pipe with Valve


Resources
To learn more about this engine's PCV system, refer to the following thread: 2011-2016 Cruze Limited 1.4L PCV System Explained

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I'm gonna take vacuum from another side of the intake after the throttle body and put a check valve on the line, easy as a pie and much cheaper. You can ship them to romania but i need it now not in 4 weeks. If you look closely i already have a fitting on the intake after the throttle body for the LPG, already found on the junkyard T and Y fitting along rubber hoses and a few very good check valves aswell that fits like a charm
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I'm gonna take vacuum from another side of the intake after the throttle body and put a check valve on the line, easy as a pie and much cheaper. You can ship them to romania but i need it now not in 4 weeks. If you look closely i already have a fitting on the intake after the throttle body for the LPG, already found on the junkyard T and Y fitting along rubber hoses and a few very good check valves aswell that fits like a charm
I wondered what those mess of tubes was, anyway, hope it works for ya.
I'm gonna take vacuum from another side of the intake after the throttle body and put a check valve on the line, easy as a pie and much cheaper. You can ship them to romania but i need it now not in 4 weeks. If you look closely i already have a fitting on the intake after the throttle body for the LPG, already found on the junkyard T and Y fitting along rubber hoses and a few very good check valves aswell that fits like a charm
Careful on the check valve crack pressure. Needs to be less than 1PSI crack pressure.

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And this is the fix, it just needs tiding it up after i will have installed the intake manifold. For now i will let the selftapping screw with a rubber washer to do it's magic for 24 hours alongside the bicomponent plastic glue (metal color, i bought it when i had a headless bolt on the cover of timing chain and it failed, actually it isn't for metal) from bison. I have already used this glue before when i changed the valve cover diaphragm and i can break the plastic cover but not the glue.
If you're asking about the price: actually this one was literally ZERO aka for free. I was thinking of some other system with metal t fitting and so on but it was much hassle because i couldn't find any suitable hoses without except online. The check valve is from VW and trust me, it's much smoother compared to the ones from GM. If this fails i will revisit the system with the gm check valve and bigger hoses but for the time i hope this one works. The brass hose fitting was given from the LPG guys as a gift, they should usually costs like 10-15 cents at best, M6 fillet wich should be 1/4" in imperial units as far i remember. The hose split vacuum us from the injectors thingie because i can just unplug the y fitting and plug the hose back into it.
The only reason why i don't agree with the V3 kit is because the intake manifold was holding a lot of oil in it in that bell area(probably it ran without the nipple for a few years now). Like litterally a pint of oil and not many of the buyers are flexible enough to unclip the hose and spray a full bottle of brake cleaner inside to make the oil fluid so it would flow and not wait 5 hours for it to drip.
PS: i forgot to take a pic of the screw and the plastic washer so i uploaded the pic of the screw i had laying around from an online catalog.

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And done, reinstalled everything, works like a charm now.
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And done, reinstalled everything, works like a charm now.
I want to reiterate, it will run, but not at optimal levels if the check valve crack pressure is too high.

Keep an eye on the glue you used. I've talked to engineers at multiple adhesives companies and the application is not so simple due to exposure to temperature extremes, water/moisture, and petroleum products. What is the temperature rating of the glue you used?

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The crack pressure is ok, it's a check valve used from VW vacuum system, already tested it and it's working fine even pulled off the vacuum hose and it started to run a bit rougher but only time will tell. For now it works like a charm and the glue should hold up to 100+ degrees C
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The crack pressure is ok, it's a check valve used from VW vacuum system, already tested it and it's working fine even pulled off the vacuum hose and it started to run a bit rougher but only time will tell. For now it works like a charm and the glue should hold up to 100+ degrees C
Most of those VW check valves from the VW vac systems are not rated for PCV use. Crack pressure is indeed good but they're only intended for vacuum or EVAP line use, not PCV gas. I actually have a big bag of them here as I was testing valves for the v3 kit. I ended up not choosing them for this application as they wouldn't be durable long-term and would start leaking.

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Will see, if they start leaking i can replace it whenever i want. I can get like 1000 vw check valves if i want to just go and pull them and they fit better on the hoses. They are more common than the crap gm used.
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Yesterday i have changed the manifold breather hose (the one with the check valve to the turbo) with one that i've already ordered from china since it was very cheap compared to the one that was on the car market. So far everything works as it should
Hi can the orange check valve nipple in the intake manifold look like the picture but still cause issues? (Eg not seated properly or half of the valve missing and is there any way to check without removing intake) It is oily in there.Have rough idle, lack of power and blue smoke from exhaust. Corrugated hose can blow through and when sucked back it’s like you can feel a valve close but oily taste in mouth. Regulator diaphragm isn’t drawing any air. Do you think there are any other problems to check that would give similar symptoms?
It is normal to be oily, that’s the point. Take off the inlet pcv tube that goes towards the turbo and blow into it, it might also be bad.
Thanks @horra that hose is working as should be. I can’t get a look at the car was towed to a garage but they are staff down with self isolating. Mechanic said it may be the turbo that’s away. Time they are being able to spend on it is limited.
Or piston rings, it could be anything at this point honestly
Hi Guys, hi @XtremeRevolution.
Great to see such a helpful community!
I recently got a lot of trouble with my Astra J 1.4 T A14NET. After some research in german boards I came across the PCV Fix Kits, now I need some help with diagnostics.
What happened:

Phase 1:
Under heavy load, the display showed "Fahrzeug demnächst warten".
The error log had the entry 'P0299'.
I ignored this error for some time.

Phase 2:
After a longer trip, Oil leaked from the valve cover gasket and the camshaft adjuster gasket, apparently under high pressure. A repair shop fixed this by replacing the to gaskets, but unfortunately I forgot to tell them about the error P0299 and they didn't check the error log.

Phase 3:
On another trip to Italy, the check engine lamp came on. I again checked the error log, this time the entry was
P0171 - System too lean, bank 1
P0106 -

Manifold absolute pressure (MAP) sensor/barometric pressure (BARO) sensor - range/performance problem

P1101 - Mass air flow (MAF) sensor - range/performance problem


I also noticed that the engine was sucking a lot of air through the small hole at the diaphragm inside the valve cover.
The engine ran unsteadily at idle, but quietly under load.
When I covered the hole inside the valve cover, the engine run more smoothly, but after like 15 seconds, a lot of smoke came out of the exhaust.

I stopped covering the hole, the smoke was gone, and I decided to continue driving as it was late in the night and I was already in Italy.

Phase 4:
On my way back, I worried about the engine and tried covering the hole again, but only partly. I hoped I could reduce the amount of air sucked in, so the mix wouldn't be too lean. After a few seconds, the exhaust again blew out a huge amount of smoke, but this time it didn't stop for maybe 30 seconds, so I decided to stop the engine and get the car back home by a towing service.

Right now the car is at a repair shop, but I'd rather try to fix it on my own.
I removed the corrugated hose, and couldn't see the orange thing. But there was really a lot of oil inside, so maybe I should clean it first.

I'm sure the diaphragm in the valve cover is broken, I suspect also the valve inside the intake manifold.
How would you proceed to further diagnose the problem?
Is there any explanation for the huge amount of smoke though the exhaust when covering the hole in the valve cover?

Btw., I already ordered the PCV Fix Kit.
Thanks in advance for your help!
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There's nothing much else to diagnose. Replace the valve cover or the membrane(china 10$) and fix the intake manifold. The smoke will be gone after that.
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Are there any tutorials on replacing the valve cover membrane only without destroying the plastic cover?
I've found the membrane as a spare part, but the cover seems to be glued/welded.
Are there any tutorials on replacing the valve cover membrane only without destroying the plastic cover?
I've found the membrane as a spare part, but the cover seems to be glued/welded.
Not possible due to the kind of adhesive that would be required to seal it back on, and the difficulty of removing it cleanly. What you're looking at is for the 1.8L valve cover. Won't work on these engines.

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The description says it's for the 1.4L valve cover: Ventildeckel Reparatursatz Membran für Chevrolet Cruze Trax 25198874 55573746 | eBay
But I'm skeptical too.
I'll give it a try, can't make things worse.
The description says it's for the 1.4L valve cover: Ventildeckel Reparatursatz Membran für Chevrolet Cruze Trax 25198874 55573746 | eBay
But I'm skeptical too.
I'll give it a try, can't make things worse.
That might be for other vendors to purchase to manufacture valve covers then.

But again, you've got two major issues.

1. Removing the existing diaphragm cleanly
2. Re-sealing the New diaphragm and the cap to the valve cover

Sealing the cap will be very difficult because of the operating temp, exposure to moisture/condensation, exposure to petroleum products, and exposure to exhaust byproducts. It's a very difficult environment to work with from an adhesive perspective.

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