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2011-2016 Cruze 1.4 PCV Valve Cover/Intake Manifold Issues

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2011-2016 Cruze 1.4L PCV Valve Cover/Intake Manifold Issues

Video:
I made a video to help better explain how this whole PCV system works to supplement this article.


Overview
I find myself having to explain this issue to someone almost daily, so in the interest of brevity, I'm creating a thread specifically for people to reference quickly if they have an issue.

The Cruze 1.4L Turbo engine has a terrible PCV check valve design that afflicts 100% of cars I have come across. It's not a matter of if, but when, it will fail. There are three primary components to this system that frequently fail: the PCV regulator diaphragm (some people call it a check valve) on the valve cover, the check valve in the intake manifold, and the corrugated hose going from the intake manifold to the turbo. We will focus on the first two, which are the most likely failures.


Symptoms
Depending on how long you've had this issue, your vehicle may throw a check engine light with any or all of the following codes (DTCs):
P0171
P0106
P1101
P0507
P0299
P2096


Note: lack of check engine light does not mean everything is operating correctly!

Your vehicle may also exhibit any or all of the following symptoms:
  • Elevated oil consumption
  • Smoke blowing through the tail pipe
  • A hissing sound in the engine bay
  • A rough/stumbling idle
  • Loss of power
  • Reduced fuel economy


Diagnosis
Valve Cover
With the engine running, inspect the vent on the PCV regulator diaphragm. The PCV regulator diaphragm has a round non-removable cap on the driver side of the valve cover. Remove the cosmetic cover off of the valve cover:


Underneath, you'll find the cap that covers the PCV regulator diaphragm. If this has failed, the engine will be sucking in air from here, and creating a hissing sound. Place your finger over this hole to cover it. If the engine RPMs change or the hissing stops, the valve cover needs to be replaced.


DON'T STOP THERE! Failure of the valve cover PCV regulator diaphragm may only be a symptom of a greater problem: the PCV check valve in the intake manifold. If the intake manifold PCV check valve has failed and you only replace the valve cover, you will find yourself replacing valve covers every few months not knowing why.


Intake Manifold PCV Check Valve
With the engine off, locate the corrugated hose coming out of the top of the PCV check valve:


With tightly gripped pliers, remove the clip holding the hose off by pulling it out:


Pull the corrugated hose off from the base, taking care not to pull from the hose itself as it may crack or tear. Using a flashlight, look inside the hole. If you are facing the engine bay from the front, there should be an orange/pink/peach nipple/valve on the "back" of that hole that looks like this:


If you don't see that check valve, use q-tips and rubbing alcohol to clean that area and check again. If you still don't see it, this must be addressed.

There's one final part that needs to be checked:


PCV Hose/Valve
In the last section, you need to remove a hose from the intake manifold. That hose has another check valve at the other end of it; at the turbo inlet. To verify its functionality, blow into the hose; it should blow freely. Suck air back through the hose; it should completely block airflow. If it doesn't do either of these, the whole thing needs to be replaced. Those hose also has a tendency to become brittle and crack, at which point it will also need replacing. Be sure to check this hose everywhere if you suspect it is leaking or are hearing a hissing sound in the engine bay.


Repair Solutions
Both of the above components are covered under your powertrain warranty. If your car is still under powertrain warranty, bring your car to the dealer and tell your dealer you are experiencing oil consumption of one quart per 1,000 miles and to reference GM Bulletin PIP5197C.

If the PCV regulator diaphragm on the valve cover has failed, replacement is required and will cost ~$60. Refer to this tutorial for replacing the valve cover. How-To: Replace the Valve/Camshaft Cover (1.4L Turbo)

If the check valve on the intake manifold is missing, you have three options:
1. You can replace the intake manifold with a new one. As of late early 2018, GM is phasing out the intake manifold that ships with all accessories and is selling a bare intake manifold. I don't yet have the part number for that.
2. Dorman has begun releasing an option. However, this option has the same check valve design as the GM manifold, meaning it will be prone to failure and boost leaks, and is not serviceable. The part number is 615-380, but availability is currently limited.
3. You can install one of my Intake Manifold PCV check valve fix kits for as little as $75, which is much cheaper than the Dorman intake (after shipping) while providing you a more robust, leak-free, and durable check valve. My external check valve design allows for easy (doesn't require removal of the intake manifold) servicing and cleaning, and inexpensive replacement. Details are in this thread: GM 1.4L Turbo Intake Manifold PCV Valve Fix Kits

A tutorial for removing the intake manifold is located here: How-To: Remove 2011-2016 Cruze 1.4L Intake Manifold

If the check valve at the turbo inlet has malfunctioned or the hose is cracked, you will need to replace it: ACDelco 25193343 PCV Pipe with Valve


Resources
To learn more about this engine's PCV system, refer to the following thread: 2011-2016 Cruze Limited 1.4L PCV System Explained

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Okay how do I know which kit to get? The red nipple is gone, it makes a hissing noise under boost and it has a P2261 code for turbo waste gate mechanical malfunction..
It depends on what your end goal is. The newest kit is the cheapest and fastest to install. The older kits have a better check valve and others are made to connect to a throttle body spacer.
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It depends on what your end goal is. The newest kit is the cheapest and fastest to install. The older kits have a better check valve and others are made to connect to a throttle body spacer.
I ordered the 3.4 + kit, hoping to eliminate the issues, not trying to make the car fast or anything, just trying to maintain factory stuff.
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So I've been working on my sister's 2012 Cruze doing some long overdue maintenance. Struts, shocks, fluids, plugs and everything in between. Oil consumption, leaks and poor fuel economy (10 mpg) is what I'm seeing.
I stumbled upon this thread last week while researching some things for her car.
Tonight I ordered a 3.4 kit, thanks @XtremeRevolution !
I did the three checks, valve cover diaphragm checked okay, intake check valve missing and pcv pipe to turbo check valve good. My concern is the valve cover. The idle didn't change when I covered the hole. The cap to the diaphragm is concaved inward, this normal?
My concern is, since this car appears to have had less than stellar maintenance and no history, should I go ahead and replace the valve cover or is the test I did good enough to verify all is well with the cover?
So I've been working on my sister's 2012 Cruze doing some long overdue maintenance. Struts, shocks, fluids, plugs and everything in between. Oil consumption, leaks and poor fuel economy (10 mpg) is what I'm seeing.
I stumbled upon this thread last week while researching some things for her car.
Tonight I ordered a 3.4 kit, thanks XtremeRevolution!
I did the three checks, valve cover diaphragm checked okay, intake check valve missing and pcv pipe to turbo check valve good. My concern is the valve cover. The idle didn't change when I covered the hole. The cap to the diaphragm is concaved inward, this normal?
My concern is, since this car appears to have had less than stellar maintenance and no history, should I go ahead and replace the valve cover or is the test I did good enough to verify all is well with the cover?
There's no reason to replace a good valve cover. If it doesn't leak and the crankcase holds the correct amount of vacuum, it's a good valve cover.
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So I've been working on my sister's 2012 Cruze doing some long overdue maintenance. Struts, shocks, fluids, plugs and everything in between. Oil consumption, leaks and poor fuel economy (10 mpg) is what I'm seeing.
I stumbled upon this thread last week while researching some things for her car.
Tonight I ordered a 3.4 kit, thanks XtremeRevolution!
I did the three checks, valve cover diaphragm checked okay, intake check valve missing and pcv pipe to turbo check valve good. My concern is the valve cover. The idle didn't change when I covered the hole. The cap to the diaphragm is concaved inward, this normal?
My concern is, since this car appears to have had less than stellar maintenance and no history, should I go ahead and replace the valve cover or is the test I did good enough to verify all is well with the cover?
Welcome Aboard!(y)

Pop the cosmetic cover and place your finger over the small rectangular opening on the round PCV vacuum regulator. If there is no air blowing out, it is fine.



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PCV system worked perfecly up to the last second of it. Unfortunately there is no more car thanks to a moron who crashed into me. For what there is to tell i can only say that this engine is very easy to maintain and DIY repairs at home. Also low fuel consumption, it can run on vapours and still have enough grunt out of his small capacity. Maybe one of the last good engines in the past 10 years or so before direct injection unreliabilty across all the car makers. Unfortunately this is my last chapter in here as i don't plan to buy another car like this because honestly they are way too expensive nowadays.

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Just glad you're ok, horaa.
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Has anybody tried recently removing the valve cover cap? I don't necessarily believe a random youtube comment, but it also seems to be sold on ebay as well. I got my valve fix kit, so I might experiment and try to save ~$45 before I buy a new valve cover to fix my ripped vacuum regulator diaphragm. Besides this one post, everything else I read suggests it can't be removed.
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I did removed it. If it’s only 45$ to buy a new one don’t bother. You will need to glue down the cap wich taxes time.
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so for those of you who have ordered a intake manifold and valve cover from ZZP, how long did it take till it was at your door? i have an appointment to bring my car in next tuesday and i ordered them last night... but then in the confirmation email it says they are custom made, so it might take a bit..
Has anybody tried recently removing the valve cover cap? I don't necessarily believe a random youtube comment, but it also seems to be sold on ebay as well. I got my valve fix kit, so I might experiment and try to save ~$45 before I buy a new valve cover to fix my ripped vacuum regulator diaphragm. Besides this one post, everything else I read suggests it can't be removed. View attachment 296518 View attachment 296519
I recently removed the cap on a spare valve cover I found. It took some effort and the cap was pretty deformed after I got it off. I used a heat gun and was not interested in saving the integrity of the cap as I just wanted to look at the diaphragm condition.
I recently removed the cap on a spare valve cover I found. It took some effort and the cap was pretty deformed after I got it off. I used a heat gun and was not interested in saving the integrity of the cap as I just wanted to look at the diaphragm condition.
That’s why the repair kits come with a new cap. I have a few people that have been testing these since about early December. So far so good.


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I received the fix-kit v3 but the black tab fell off the screwdriver and now I have to remove the intake manifold to get the tab. Does anyone have a suggestion on an alternative to the black tab and epoxy to put in the intake manifold? I recall seeing another video where a short sheet metal screw was used to plug the check valve hole. Please any advice is greatly appreciated.
I received the fix-kit v3 but the black tab fell off the screwdriver and now I have to remove the intake manifold to get the tab. Does anyone have a suggestion on an alternative to the black tab and epoxy to put in the intake manifold? I recall seeing another video where a short sheet metal screw was used to plug the check valve hole. Please any advice is greatly appreciated.
Don’t need to remove the manifold for that. Did you also send me an email? I’ll send you a replacement plug. Won’t hurt anything if the plug sits there.

You could use a sheet metal screw and washer if you want to get the job done today and don’t mind pulling the manifold. #10 x 3/4” self drilling sheet metal screw and #10 x 7/16” nylon washer.


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Oh wow. If I can avoid pulling the intake, that would be ideal. Help me understand though. If the plug sits in the manifold, it won't hurt anything? Yes, I did send you a separate email and your help is greatly appreciated.
my cruze is having issues such as rough idle and when I go to accelerate I have hesitation. I can no longer see the check valve. So do I need to replace the valve cover and put on the kit? Which kit do you recommend? I just want my car to run smooth and be as dependable as possible.
my cruze is having issues such as rough idle and when I go to accelerate I have hesitation. I can no longer see the check valve. So do I need to replace the valve cover and put on the kit? Which kit do you recommend? I just want my car to run smooth and be as dependable as possible.
Yes you need to do both. New OEM valve cover and the pcv fix kit.


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Yes you need to do both. New OEM valve cover and the pcv fix kit.


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Would it be a good idea to confirm that the valve diaphragm on the valve cover is torn by listening for a whistling sound? Also, see if an ODB reader can be borrowed to check for the code P0171 (I believe that's one of the codes). If the code is there and a whistling sound from the valve cover, then good bet the valve cover needs to be replaced. Or maybe just do it any way but be becareful when installing the valve cover to not strip the head threads...been there done that, it sucks.
Would it be a good idea to confirm that the valve diaphragm on the valve cover is torn by listening for a whistling sound? Also, see if an ODB reader can be borrowed to check for the code P0171 (I believe that's one of the codes). If the code is there and a whistling sound from the valve cover, then good bet the valve cover needs to be replaced. Or maybe just do it any way but be becareful when installing the valve cover to not strip the head threads...been there done that, it sucks.
Any air moving in or out of the valve cover diaphragm would indicate a failure.


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Hey guys, long time no see, it's been a few months. Didn't manage to sell the car because i didn't want the auto sharks to make a lot of money on my behalf so i kept the price up that or i was going to take it apart and sell bits of it.. I got a few calls, one of them was for sure the right buyer but as usual fate happens on both sides, one happy note one very sad note. My mum's 2005 astra (previous model to cruze) automatic (very rare in romania) with 1.8 liter engine (the one from the good old days when the engine cover was made of aluminium) and LPG all of sudden decided to lock itself. Eventually started but was running very rough, in 10 seconds all of the coolant went into the oil pan. Removed the spark plug, it barely cranked(most certainly the crankshaft seals went kaput), so she had 2 choices: repair my crashed car, or replace the engine on her + miscelanious repairs(bushings, brakes, struts etc). She made the right choice, she will have my old astra for free but she will have to fix it, i mean i will take care of parts, body workshop but she will have to pay. Now i'm driving a car that i love more than the cruze/astra. Fate really likes to play jokes on you, i had a buyer that wanted to buy the car but didn't call afterwards to scheudle the selling, so he was late by about 1 day when i got the call to sign the papers.
PS: i'm driving a opel signum with a saab engine + LPG. What a joyfull engine, and the turbo spools are yum yum. With a bit more luck i am going to tune it a bit, nothing ridiculous, about 240 horses.
How much i am in the hole so far? Over 6000$ :LOL:
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