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2011-2016 Cruze 1.4 PCV Valve Cover/Intake Manifold Issues

697683 Views 550 Replies 172 Participants Last post by  Blasirl
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2011-2016 Cruze 1.4L PCV Valve Cover/Intake Manifold Issues

Video:
I made a video to help better explain how this whole PCV system works to supplement this article.


Overview
I find myself having to explain this issue to someone almost daily, so in the interest of brevity, I'm creating a thread specifically for people to reference quickly if they have an issue.

The Cruze 1.4L Turbo engine has a terrible PCV check valve design that afflicts 100% of cars I have come across. It's not a matter of if, but when, it will fail. There are three primary components to this system that frequently fail: the PCV regulator diaphragm (some people call it a check valve) on the valve cover, the check valve in the intake manifold, and the corrugated hose going from the intake manifold to the turbo. We will focus on the first two, which are the most likely failures.


Symptoms
Depending on how long you've had this issue, your vehicle may throw a check engine light with any or all of the following codes (DTCs):
P0171
P0106
P1101
P0507
P0299
P2096


Note: lack of check engine light does not mean everything is operating correctly!

Your vehicle may also exhibit any or all of the following symptoms:
  • Elevated oil consumption
  • Smoke blowing through the tail pipe
  • A hissing sound in the engine bay
  • A rough/stumbling idle
  • Loss of power
  • Reduced fuel economy


Diagnosis
Valve Cover
With the engine running, inspect the vent on the PCV regulator diaphragm. The PCV regulator diaphragm has a round non-removable cap on the driver side of the valve cover. Remove the cosmetic cover off of the valve cover:


Underneath, you'll find the cap that covers the PCV regulator diaphragm. If this has failed, the engine will be sucking in air from here, and creating a hissing sound. Place your finger over this hole to cover it. If the engine RPMs change or the hissing stops, the valve cover needs to be replaced.


DON'T STOP THERE! Failure of the valve cover PCV regulator diaphragm may only be a symptom of a greater problem: the PCV check valve in the intake manifold. If the intake manifold PCV check valve has failed and you only replace the valve cover, you will find yourself replacing valve covers every few months not knowing why.


Intake Manifold PCV Check Valve
With the engine off, locate the corrugated hose coming out of the top of the PCV check valve:


With tightly gripped pliers, remove the clip holding the hose off by pulling it out:


Pull the corrugated hose off from the base, taking care not to pull from the hose itself as it may crack or tear. Using a flashlight, look inside the hole. If you are facing the engine bay from the front, there should be an orange/pink/peach nipple/valve on the "back" of that hole that looks like this:


If you don't see that check valve, use q-tips and rubbing alcohol to clean that area and check again. If you still don't see it, this must be addressed.

There's one final part that needs to be checked:


PCV Hose/Valve
In the last section, you need to remove a hose from the intake manifold. That hose has another check valve at the other end of it; at the turbo inlet. To verify its functionality, blow into the hose; it should blow freely. Suck air back through the hose; it should completely block airflow. If it doesn't do either of these, the whole thing needs to be replaced. Those hose also has a tendency to become brittle and crack, at which point it will also need replacing. Be sure to check this hose everywhere if you suspect it is leaking or are hearing a hissing sound in the engine bay.


Repair Solutions
Both of the above components are covered under your powertrain warranty. If your car is still under powertrain warranty, bring your car to the dealer and tell your dealer you are experiencing oil consumption of one quart per 1,000 miles and to reference GM Bulletin PIP5197C.

If the PCV regulator diaphragm on the valve cover has failed, replacement is required and will cost ~$60. Refer to this tutorial for replacing the valve cover. How-To: Replace the Valve/Camshaft Cover (1.4L Turbo)

If the check valve on the intake manifold is missing, you have three options:
1. You can replace the intake manifold with a new one. As of late early 2018, GM is phasing out the intake manifold that ships with all accessories and is selling a bare intake manifold. I don't yet have the part number for that.
2. Dorman has begun releasing an option. However, this option has the same check valve design as the GM manifold, meaning it will be prone to failure and boost leaks, and is not serviceable. The part number is 615-380, but availability is currently limited.
3. You can install one of my Intake Manifold PCV check valve fix kits for as little as $75, which is much cheaper than the Dorman intake (after shipping) while providing you a more robust, leak-free, and durable check valve. My external check valve design allows for easy (doesn't require removal of the intake manifold) servicing and cleaning, and inexpensive replacement. Details are in this thread: GM 1.4L Turbo Intake Manifold PCV Valve Fix Kits

A tutorial for removing the intake manifold is located here: How-To: Remove 2011-2016 Cruze 1.4L Intake Manifold

If the check valve at the turbo inlet has malfunctioned or the hose is cracked, you will need to replace it: ACDelco 25193343 PCV Pipe with Valve


Resources
To learn more about this engine's PCV system, refer to the following thread: 2011-2016 Cruze Limited 1.4L PCV System Explained

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My oil consumption (through the PCV system) was high before the check valve went AWOL. It left at around 48,000. I noticed a "squealing" when in boost.
Anyway, I plugged the hole by first cleaning it with carb cleaner while the engine was running, Then wiping up with some q-tips, then I used plastic epoxy applied with a clean q-tip. No removal of intake and it took about 20 min.
New problem is now with no vacuum on crankcase, oil is leaking from the front main seal. The seal and dampener have been replaced with no change. Already lost one belt on the freeway from the oil being spun everywhere. Next, I am going to switch from the low friction seal to standard spring-loaded one from O'Reilly.

Moral of the story is to get it fixed sooner rather than later so it does not lead to other bad things.
Why don't you just install my kit to address the lack of pcv vacuum so you don't have to keep replacing seals? This makes no sense to me.

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I am not replacing seals because they are bad (unless you count bad design) My engine literally shoots oil out of the PCV system. New valve cover did not change this. I have since put in a catch can which helped until the nipple in the intake disappeared. Now the hole is sealed and I adapted the catch can but with no vacuum in the crankcase, the standard front main seal leaks.
I have added a vacuum source to the can but it is too soon to see if the main seal has stopped leaking. If not, I will replace it with a spring loaded seal like every other engine uses.
I am not replacing seals because they are bad (unless you count bad design) My engine literally shoots oil out of the PCV system. New valve cover did not change this. I have since put in a catch can which helped until the nipple in the intake disappeared. Now the hole is sealed and I adapted the catch can but with no vacuum in the crankcase, the standard front main seal leaks.
I have added a vacuum source to the can but it is too soon to see if the main seal has stopped leaking. If not, I will replace it with a spring loaded seal like every other engine uses.
I still don't understand. What part of your design shoots oil out of the PCV system and how is that different from anyone else's? How much oil consumption do you actually have? Are you sure you don't have a cracked piston?

I still don't understand why you can't just solve the problem of having no vacuum in the crank case by installing my rather simple fix. http://www.cruzetalk.com/forum/34-g...urbo-intake-manifold-pcv-check-valve-fix.html
My LUJ engine was replaced due to a cracked piston. Both engines had high oil consumption through the PCV system. The new LUV engine does not have a cracked piston.
I have thought about putting your system on but that would suck in just as much oil as the stock one. Instead I implemented a catch can that I built.
My LUJ engine was replaced due to a cracked piston. Both engines had high oil consumption through the PCV system. The new LUV engine does not have a cracked piston.
I have thought about putting your system on but that would suck in just as much oil as the stock one. Instead I implemented a catch can that I built.
This makes absolutely no sense. I go 15,000 miles between oil changes on AMSOIL Signature Series 5W-30 and see absolutely no change in the level on the dipstick. With my kit, I have a fully-functional PCV system that does not consume oil, not a single leak to be found around the engine, and a healthy engine overall.

What oil are you using that you're seeing such high oil consumption? That is not normal at all.
I am currently running Mobil 1 5w30. I tried some 15w50 to see if it helped with the crank seal and PCV. It slowed a bit but not significantly Maybe 25% If I unplug the hose going to the turbo, it will spray oil on the bottom of the hood when driven hard. It just seems like the PCV cannot handle the amount of flow that goes through it yet my simple catch can does. I really don't want the intercooler and charge pipes loaded up with oil again.
I am currently running Mobil 1 5w30. I tried some 15w50 to see if it helped with the crank seal and PCV. It slowed a bit but not significantly Maybe 25% If I unplug the hose going to the turbo, it will spray oil on the bottom of the hood when driven hard. It just seems like the PCV cannot handle the amount of flow that goes through it yet my simple catch can does. I really don't want the intercooler and charge pipes loaded up with oil again.
Have you done a compression test...? It kinda sounds like you might have a cracked piston.
I am currently running Mobil 1 5w30. I tried some 15w50 to see if it helped with the crank seal and PCV. It slowed a bit but not significantly Maybe 25% If I unplug the hose going to the turbo, it will spray oil on the bottom of the hood when driven hard. It just seems like the PCV cannot handle the amount of flow that goes through it yet my simple catch can does. I really don't want the intercooler and charge pipes loaded up with oil again.
That doesn't really tell me a whole lot since Mobil 1 hasn't been too great as of late. Find some Pennzoil Platinum 10W-30 (that exact viscosity), and give it a try next change and let me know if the amount of oil accumulation changes. I'm tuned and have no problems with oil consumption.
what is the custom fitting into your valve cover?
what is the custom fitting into your valve cover?
Swivel return fitting for my bypass oil filter.

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Have you done a compression test...? It kinda sounds like you might have a cracked piston.
Multiple times. Usually right around 200PSI. I will be doing another one this weekend and also using an inspection camera to inspect the bores.
XtremeRevolution, this is all massively helpful. Have 2014 Cruze LT at dealership now. July 18, 2017, at 73,166 miles, the intake manifold, pipe, and valve cover were all replaced. It had been running rough for a bit then check engine light came on, went off for about a month, then came back on. Repairs were completed at no cost under powertrain warranty. Not too long after, light came on again then went back off then came back on this month. Son dropped it off, and they called yesterday telling me it was the catalytic converter that needed to be replaced wanting $750 for it. Have you heard of this known issue causing problems with catalytic converter due to the vacuum leak and engine running rich for a while? I've owned about 100 yrs worth of cars over the years and never had a single issue with a catalytic converter. Isn't covered by my bumper to bumper 100,000 mile wraparound we'll cover everything warranty that I purchased for $1595 ;-) (last time I buy a dealership warranty). Also isn't covered by manufacturer emissions warranty which expired a few hundred miles ago at 80,000 miles per them. Am waiting for service manager to call me back after explaining the situation and that there's no way that thing failed on its own without an issue causing it and that issue was first brought to their attention at 73,166 miles. If they still say it isn't covered, I'm going to pick up the car and pay the diagnosis fee. Any reco's for me?
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GM will cover 25% they say so got it down to a grand total of just over $600. Son is on his way to pick up the car and pay diagnostic fee. There it is. The last Chevy I will ever own. A 2014 Chevy Cruze.
XtremeRevolution, this is all massively helpful. Have 2014 Cruze LT at dealership now. July 18, 2017, at 73,166 miles, the intake manifold, pipe, and valve cover were all replaced. It had been running rough for a bit then check engine light came on, went off for about a month, then came back on. Repairs were completed at no cost under powertrain warranty. Not too long after, light came on again then went back off then came back on this month. Son dropped it off, and they called yesterday telling me it was the catalytic converter that needed to be replaced wanting $750 for it. Have you heard of this known issue causing problems with catalytic converter due to the vacuum leak and engine running rich for a while? I've owned about 100 yrs worth of cars over the years and never had a single issue with a catalytic converter. Isn't covered by my bumper to bumper 100,000 mile wraparound we'll cover everything warranty that I purchased for $1595 ;-) (last time I buy a dealership warranty). Also isn't covered by manufacturer emissions warranty which expired a few hundred miles ago at 80,000 miles per them. Am waiting for service manager to call me back after explaining the situation and that there's no way that thing failed on its own without an issue causing it and that issue was first brought to their attention at 73,166 miles. If they still say it isn't covered, I'm going to pick up the car and pay the diagnosis fee. Any reco's for me?
When that check valve goes bad, it is typically accompanied by oil consumption. Oil is poisonous to catalytic converters, so it is definitely possible that this was the root cause. However, a catalytic converter code may also go off if the engine is running lean or rich.

GM will cover 25% they say so got it down to a grand total of just over $600. Son is on his way to pick up the car and pay diagnostic fee. There it is. The last Chevy I will ever own. A 2014 Chevy Cruze.
To be honest, expect these kinds of things in the future with other cars. Everyone is moving toward small displacement turbocharged engines. I can't help but wonder for how long that intake manifold check valve was gone.
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Xtreme, yes there was oil consumption. I just figured my son was driving the car hard and not admitting it until I read the horrendous reports online and realized I'm in bed with a bunch of other Chevy owners who bought the wrong car. I figure the issue was there at under 50k and son just didn't say anything. He mentioned a knocking noise, but the check engine light wasn't on. The noise went away when they did the engine repairs for leaking vacuum replacing the valve cover and replaced the manifold and "pipe" which is where the missing return valve was per their own paperwork that I have. They cited bulletins and zero charge for warranty work for both issues. Now 3 months later they say the cat converter needs to be replaced. Imagine driving Chevy's all these years, then check engine is on, it's off, is on, is off. Am not going to get over being jerked by these clowns.
I realize you aren't a lovely lady Xtreme lol, but I'm of the female gender. These Chevy garages think they can jerk me around when I've done more car repairs than most of their intake folks have. I let my son take the car in last July and didn't bother to investigate because I work full time and was busy and it cost me nothing. It wasn't until yesterday when they called and said it would be $750 that I took a day off and focused on the issue. Thank God I found this forum then realized this is common for Chevy Cruze. They still won't pay, but am sure that the tens of thousands they just lost plus my open communication with everyone I know on how bad this Cruze is will hit them with $1Million in losses prior to this being said and done. You say to expect this in the future. I say I have 40 years of car ownership experience and have never seen the like.
That doesn't really tell me a whole lot since Mobil 1 hasn't been too great as of late. Find some Pennzoil Platinum 10W-30 (that exact viscosity), and give it a try next change and let me know if the amount of oil accumulation changes. I'm tuned and have no problems with oil consumption.
I got the oil from Costco in 2016 when it had $10 off. Does that Pennzoil atomize/vaporize less easily?

Thanks.
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Have you done a compression test...? It kinda sounds like you might have a cracked piston.
I did a cold compression test on Sunday and it was 197, 215, 217, 215 respectively. When new, they were around 170 and have been higher every time I test it. The engine currently has 6300 miles on it.
Here is what the left-most piston looks like. The rest are similar.
X-ray Medical Radiology Medical imaging Space

Here are the spark-plugs in the order they came out:
Auto part Spark plug Automotive engine part Automotive ignition part
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I got the oil from Costco in 2016 when it had $10 off. Does that Pennzoil atomize/vaporize less easily?

Thanks.
Pennzoil Platinum generally shows a 1% volatility drop due to their base oil, but reducing the Multigrade viscosity gap to a 10W-30 drops volatility even further. That would tell you if the oil's volatility is contributing to the consumption.

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Pennzoil Platinum generally shows a 1% volatility drop due to their base oil, but reducing the Multigrade viscosity gap to a 10W-30 drops volatility even further. That would tell you if the oil's volatility is contributing to the consumption.

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I changed my oil Sunday the 15th and so far, the Pennzoil does not seem to be doing any better. I have to empty the catch can every day (45-65 miles)
I hope I am not going to be one of the people with multiple engine failures though it does appear to happen.
If I have another bad engine, I am going to be seriously disappointed and pissed off.
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