Why don't you just install my kit to address the lack of pcv vacuum so you don't have to keep replacing seals? This makes no sense to me.
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Why don't you just install my kit to address the lack of pcv vacuum so you don't have to keep replacing seals? This makes no sense to me.My oil consumption (through the PCV system) was high before the check valve went AWOL. It left at around 48,000. I noticed a "squealing" when in boost.
Anyway, I plugged the hole by first cleaning it with carb cleaner while the engine was running, Then wiping up with some q-tips, then I used plastic epoxy applied with a clean q-tip. No removal of intake and it took about 20 min.
New problem is now with no vacuum on crankcase, oil is leaking from the front main seal. The seal and dampener have been replaced with no change. Already lost one belt on the freeway from the oil being spun everywhere. Next, I am going to switch from the low friction seal to standard spring-loaded one from O'Reilly.
Moral of the story is to get it fixed sooner rather than later so it does not lead to other bad things.
I still don't understand. What part of your design shoots oil out of the PCV system and how is that different from anyone else's? How much oil consumption do you actually have? Are you sure you don't have a cracked piston?I am not replacing seals because they are bad (unless you count bad design) My engine literally shoots oil out of the PCV system. New valve cover did not change this. I have since put in a catch can which helped until the nipple in the intake disappeared. Now the hole is sealed and I adapted the catch can but with no vacuum in the crankcase, the standard front main seal leaks.
I have added a vacuum source to the can but it is too soon to see if the main seal has stopped leaking. If not, I will replace it with a spring loaded seal like every other engine uses.
This makes absolutely no sense. I go 15,000 miles between oil changes on AMSOIL Signature Series 5W-30 and see absolutely no change in the level on the dipstick. With my kit, I have a fully-functional PCV system that does not consume oil, not a single leak to be found around the engine, and a healthy engine overall.My LUJ engine was replaced due to a cracked piston. Both engines had high oil consumption through the PCV system. The new LUV engine does not have a cracked piston.
I have thought about putting your system on but that would suck in just as much oil as the stock one. Instead I implemented a catch can that I built.
Have you done a compression test...? It kinda sounds like you might have a cracked piston.I am currently running Mobil 1 5w30. I tried some 15w50 to see if it helped with the crank seal and PCV. It slowed a bit but not significantly Maybe 25% If I unplug the hose going to the turbo, it will spray oil on the bottom of the hood when driven hard. It just seems like the PCV cannot handle the amount of flow that goes through it yet my simple catch can does. I really don't want the intercooler and charge pipes loaded up with oil again.
That doesn't really tell me a whole lot since Mobil 1 hasn't been too great as of late. Find some Pennzoil Platinum 10W-30 (that exact viscosity), and give it a try next change and let me know if the amount of oil accumulation changes. I'm tuned and have no problems with oil consumption.I am currently running Mobil 1 5w30. I tried some 15w50 to see if it helped with the crank seal and PCV. It slowed a bit but not significantly Maybe 25% If I unplug the hose going to the turbo, it will spray oil on the bottom of the hood when driven hard. It just seems like the PCV cannot handle the amount of flow that goes through it yet my simple catch can does. I really don't want the intercooler and charge pipes loaded up with oil again.
Swivel return fitting for my bypass oil filter.what is the custom fitting into your valve cover?
Multiple times. Usually right around 200PSI. I will be doing another one this weekend and also using an inspection camera to inspect the bores.Have you done a compression test...? It kinda sounds like you might have a cracked piston.
When that check valve goes bad, it is typically accompanied by oil consumption. Oil is poisonous to catalytic converters, so it is definitely possible that this was the root cause. However, a catalytic converter code may also go off if the engine is running lean or rich.XtremeRevolution, this is all massively helpful. Have 2014 Cruze LT at dealership now. July 18, 2017, at 73,166 miles, the intake manifold, pipe, and valve cover were all replaced. It had been running rough for a bit then check engine light came on, went off for about a month, then came back on. Repairs were completed at no cost under powertrain warranty. Not too long after, light came on again then went back off then came back on this month. Son dropped it off, and they called yesterday telling me it was the catalytic converter that needed to be replaced wanting $750 for it. Have you heard of this known issue causing problems with catalytic converter due to the vacuum leak and engine running rich for a while? I've owned about 100 yrs worth of cars over the years and never had a single issue with a catalytic converter. Isn't covered by my bumper to bumper 100,000 mile wraparound we'll cover everything warranty that I purchased for $1595 ;-) (last time I buy a dealership warranty). Also isn't covered by manufacturer emissions warranty which expired a few hundred miles ago at 80,000 miles per them. Am waiting for service manager to call me back after explaining the situation and that there's no way that thing failed on its own without an issue causing it and that issue was first brought to their attention at 73,166 miles. If they still say it isn't covered, I'm going to pick up the car and pay the diagnosis fee. Any reco's for me?
To be honest, expect these kinds of things in the future with other cars. Everyone is moving toward small displacement turbocharged engines. I can't help but wonder for how long that intake manifold check valve was gone.GM will cover 25% they say so got it down to a grand total of just over $600. Son is on his way to pick up the car and pay diagnostic fee. There it is. The last Chevy I will ever own. A 2014 Chevy Cruze.
I got the oil from Costco in 2016 when it had $10 off. Does that Pennzoil atomize/vaporize less easily?That doesn't really tell me a whole lot since Mobil 1 hasn't been too great as of late. Find some Pennzoil Platinum 10W-30 (that exact viscosity), and give it a try next change and let me know if the amount of oil accumulation changes. I'm tuned and have no problems with oil consumption.
I did a cold compression test on Sunday and it was 197, 215, 217, 215 respectively. When new, they were around 170 and have been higher every time I test it. The engine currently has 6300 miles on it.Have you done a compression test...? It kinda sounds like you might have a cracked piston.
Pennzoil Platinum generally shows a 1% volatility drop due to their base oil, but reducing the Multigrade viscosity gap to a 10W-30 drops volatility even further. That would tell you if the oil's volatility is contributing to the consumption.I got the oil from Costco in 2016 when it had $10 off. Does that Pennzoil atomize/vaporize less easily?
Thanks.
I changed my oil Sunday the 15th and so far, the Pennzoil does not seem to be doing any better. I have to empty the catch can every day (45-65 miles)Pennzoil Platinum generally shows a 1% volatility drop due to their base oil, but reducing the Multigrade viscosity gap to a 10W-30 drops volatility even further. That would tell you if the oil's volatility is contributing to the consumption.
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