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Had this issue reported by a few people. Obstruction/blockage in the valve cover. One of them was on a brand new OEM valve cover. Told him to replace it. He did and problem went away. It's not common but it happens.

You should also inspect the check valves. When all of these components work well, the car runs well.

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I am going to check the valves this evening. So you're saying there's probably an issue with the new valve cover, correct?

Thanks
 

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So what gives? All saying 100% failure rate....I’m at 108k never had an issue w the PCV at all, unless they replaced it before I got the car at 24k....there was pressure escaping from the main pulley gasket(would squeak air as I **** the car down...covered under warranty 29k...) but no PCV failure, full synthetic oil since 90k...always high test gas, am I lucky? 90%hwy driving..
 

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Discussion Starter #183
So what gives? All saying 100% failure rate....I’m at 108k never had an issue w the PCV at all, unless they replaced it before I got the car at 24k....there was pressure escaping from the main pulley gasket(would squeak air as I **** the car down...covered under warranty 29k...) but no PCV failure, full synthetic oil since 90k...always high test gas, am I lucky? 90%hwy driving..
Inspect the check valve in the intake manifold. If it's still there, it's leaking or stuck and not working properly anyway.

They all fail without exception. It's just a matter of time.

Also, front main seal failure happens right after the PCV system fails. Pretty common. Did you fix that yourself or did they do it?

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I started to have this issue with my 2012 LT RS Cruze. I got the following codes: P0171, P0106 and P1101. I did get the P0301 misfire but it was due to the 3 codes listed before. We did some research and found the following COULD be wrong with the car: Valve cover, O2 sensor, MAF sensor, MAP sensor, ignition coil or PCV hose. I was having the same issues as reported on several other threads... check engine light was coming on, then the traction control/stabilitrac warning. The car would idle extremely rough, pulsing between 500-700 RPMs. When I would turn the car off, my fan would kick in and run for a bit as well.

Here is what we replaced (and did not fix the issue):
Valve cover and gasket
Ignition coil
MAF sensor
spark plugs
Seafoam cleaner
Lucas Oil Injector Cleaner

After more looking (my brother did a lot of research and testing with my car) and discovered 1 part we overlooked. The PCV valve tubing (GM part# 25193343). The tubing was so brittle and hard that it has broken down near the connector, under the exit turbo enlet. We replaced the part with a heat hose and it fixed the issue! We put the old ignition coil on to test, and it was still good. We also tested the old MAF sensor and it worked as well. We did keep the new spark plugs, as those needed to be replaced anyway. And we still think it needed the dreaded valve cover replaced as well. All in all, instead of spending $800 at the dealership to get it fixed, we spent around $140 (not including the beer I paid my brother for the work). I wanted to post this for those having issues and to make sure that you look at all the possible spots. This one was a little hidden.

here are some pics of the hose (old and new):

Factory PCV hose:
View attachment 216898

PCV hose removed from the car. It broke near the connector.
View attachment 216906
View attachment 216914

New hose that is on the car now and fixed the issue.
View attachment 216922
How did u remove the end that DOESNT have the pin clip ?
 

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I have a 2014 Cruz with the 1.4 turbo engine. 215,000 kilometers. Dealer replaced first valve cover under warranty. No problems till this past summer when I had the valve cover and front engine seal replaced. A few weeks ago I had the manifold replaced ( $997.00 Canadian) to correct suction at the PCV regulator diaphragm on top of the valve cover. Engine runs fine , check engine light is off and all is well. Question: For about 2 weeks the PCV regulator diaphragm was sucking air into the valve cover yet the dealer did not consider it necessary to replace the valve cover. If the PCV regulator diaphragm has been sucking air for about two weeks does that mean that the diaphragm is broken or is it designed so that it can let air out or take air in???
 

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It means you need either a fix kit and valve cover or a new intake manifold and valve cover both.
 

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2014 LT program car, Pull Me Over Red
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I have a 2014 Cruz with the 1.4 turbo engine. 215,000 kilometers. Dealer replaced first valve cover under warranty. No problems till this past summer when I had the valve cover and front engine seal replaced. A few weeks ago I had the manifold replaced ( $997.00 Canadian) to correct suction at the PCV regulator diaphragm on top of the valve cover. Engine runs fine , check engine light is off and all is well. Question: For about 2 weeks the PCV regulator diaphragm was sucking air into the valve cover yet the dealer did not consider it necessary to replace the valve cover. If the PCV regulator diaphragm has been sucking air for about two weeks does that mean that the diaphragm is broken or is it designed so that it can let air out or take air in???
Welcome Aboard!(y)

Yes. The blown vacuum regulator is a symptom of a bad intake. For that matter the front seal was probably also a symptom of the bad intake. The two PCV valves are in the intake and at the turbo inlet, not in the valve cover just for clarification.

www.cruzekits.com

I assume you have read this as well, but just in case:

2011-2016 Cruze 1.4 PCV Valve Cover/Intake Manifold Issues

Don't forget to introduce yourself and your Cruze
here.
 

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Discussion Starter #190 (Edited)
Hey guys, I'll be sending out this as an e-mail to everyone that ordered the kit, but figured I'd share this here as well.

I wanted to take a brief moment to share some tips on maintaining the PCV system with my PCV fix kit installed. The initial goal behind designing this DIY fix kit for the 1.4L Turbo PCV system was to create a more affordable, more durable alternative to repeatedly replacing the intake manifold. Through prolonged use, testing, and feedback from the community, I'd like to share some simple steps that can be taken to ensure that the PCV system and the fix kit continue to operate reliably for years to come.
  • For the V1/V2 kits, the check valve in the kit is very durable and should function reliably with no maintenance required for at least 100,000 miles, after which I do reccomend inspection. There have been no reports of failures.
  • Some community members have noticed the PCV system tends to get a little dirty around the cylinder head. To check for this, remove the corrugated/accordion hose connector from on top of the intake manifold and have a look inside to make sure the area looks generally clean. A bit of orange residue is OK, especially during winter driving. This is just condensation mixed with oil.
  • Specific to the V2 kit: the brake booster tee fitting should be periodically checked and cleaned (if necessary) to ensure it flows freely and that the PCV system and brake booster continue to function properly. So far, reports have shown it to be clean and clear at 100,000 miles. A good start would be checking it at every oil change, then adjusting thereafter. A bit of condensation is normal, but if you find those parts do need cleaning, you can use a small pipe brush/straw cleaner or a pipe cleaner (the kind kids use for arts and crafts).
  • To ensure the valve cover is working correctly (aside from the potential for an occasional vacuum regulator failure), check for excessive vacuum by pulling the dipstick while the engine is idling. The engine should be sucking air in through the dipstick, but it shouldn't be difficult to pull the dipstick out.
 
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