2011 chevy cruze 6 speed eco
U0140, P2227, P2228, P0420, P0299. Ive replaced many parts to include the turbo all the lines coming in and out, rerouted the check valve on the intake manifold, MAF sensor, baro sensor, map sensor, turbo boost sensor and probably more just cant think of any more at the time. I know the P0420 is an exhaust leak/gutted catalytic converter i created when replacing the O2 sensor after the catalytic converter. I gutted the catalytic converter because i thought maybe it was bad then changed the rear O2 sensor and ended up having to cut the exhaust and pull it off to remove the O2 sensor because it wouldnt come out. I pulled the brake booster hose out as well and blew smoke with my vapor cig in there with no visable leaks, dont know if that would replicate a smoke test to the extent it needs to but afterwords pulled the intake hose off and there was smoke in there (so i think it worked) Any questions and ill do what i can to answer them. I will appreciate all the help i can get.
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Im getting all the codes as posted above, with a mechanical boost gauge showing 4 psi. This might or might not be related but the DIC is showing a average of 17 mph. The average mpg shows 29 (i believe ill check again) but i can almost see my fuel gauge dropping while driving it seems to me to be getting terrible gas mileage. I can go through about 1/4 a tank and drive at the most 80 miles.It is possible the bypass valve spring has gotten weak, but I would wait for more techs to chime in, I am not a mechanic.Why it wont boost over 4 psi
Also forgot to mention that if i pull the vacuum hose off the waste gate actuator ( wont do it again as i know i playing with fire) it will boost properly. Im thinking at this point its going to be a computer issue, but just my opinion.You have done a lot! What are the symptoms you're having? As in actual running problems?
The baypass valve was new with the turbo.It is possible the bypass valve spring has gotten weak, but I would wait for more techs to chime in, I am not a mechanic.Why it wont boost over 4 psi
I appreciate the help. Is there anyway to check that spring? Something else i didnt mention is oil in the throttle body, intake manifold etc...I wouldn't think the wastegate spring to be bad straight from the factory, though I've seen it before...
I've had the underboost problem before but it went away, and I still have the P0420 and it makes my car run horrible at higher RPMs...
In your case, I would definitely lean towards the bcm or ECU since you changed the baro sensor already and there are two codes for it.
That being said, I feel you have two different issues going on, but it could all be stemming from a bad ECU. Not the gutted cat part, but the underboost and bad barometer readings.
Just my two cents.
I hollowed out the cat, just to eliminate it being a bad cat. I dont have the old one but it was cracked by the wastegate, typical from what ive been reading.Oh, and for the wastegate spring, if the car is operating the same since before the turbo swap, I'm fairly confident that those components all work okay. But since you have the old one, you could in theory take that one apart and try to figure it out, then compare if it isn't too invasive?
Can the valve cover be bad even though its not hissing from the pcv valve?
That might be my next new part. It really seems to me either one its a leak that is really consistent or 2 like i said before its a computer issue because i can take the vacuum hose off of the wastegate actuator and it boosts just fine, leaving me to believe the computer is keeping the wastegate open but not fully open (i.e. like 10% open)The pcv sticking could be a reason for oil in the intake for sure. And also cause a minor intake issue. 4 psi limit worth, I don't think so, but it would hurt to replace.
The boost solenoid/controller was new with the new turbo as well as i swapped it out with others. Im unsure as to how i can test that spring inside the wastegate actuator but will see if i cant figure it out.Oh, and a cheaper route, before an ECU, may be a new boost solenoid/boost controller.
Do your lights flicker when the car is under a load? ( headlights on, a/c on, overhead lights in the car on. Etc....)Oh, and a cheaper route, before an ECU, may be a new boost solenoid/boost controller.
Something else as well is ive been working with a shop that has a snap on scannner, he said that the wastegate was staying open at idle. (10%) Is that normal?
.....Something else as well is ive been working with a shop that has a snap on scannner, he said that the wastegate was staying open at idle. (10%) Is that normal?
No ive been busy for the most part of this last month. I think im going to try and chase a possible wiring issue next to see if thats the issue. Im completely lost.Hi! I apologize for the super delayed response. no, my lights didn't flicker. So I first tried the O2 sensors with no luck... but then, this morning, I took after the spark plugs, and found one failed. It actually had a large leak so under boost the air/fuel mixture would get all out of whack and run horribly. I also randomly got a #4 cylinder misfire code, which is why I went after it. ugh!!!
Have you had any luck on your end with diagnosing your car?
Alright, after tons of research and doing a compression test months down the road, I came up with possibly cracked piston? Either way my compression test came back with 150, 120, 120 and 60. So I went and bought a used engine from a junkyard for just shy of $1000. It has 19k on it. So, wish me luck everyone.
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