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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Looking for some help here on a stalling 2011 Chevy cruze LS 1.8 manual transmission.I'm not able to link a website since this is my first post, but the post on cruze-talk titled, "electrical problem radio cluster." I am experiencing all of these same problems, but additionally, and most important, my car is also stalling. There's no real correlation with run time on the car. Sometimes it's stalled just after starting, sometimes it's stalled 30+ minutes after starting.

When the stall happens:
  • Engine shuts off.
  • Instrument cluster and radio turn off
  • Several alarms show on the instrument cluster
  • Emergency flashers don't work - wonderful for a stalled car.
  • Blinkers and headlights don't work.
  • Ignition 'beep' alarm when keys are left in the ignition and door open, does not sound the beep alarm.
  • Locks cannot be locked or unlocked via interior button or key fob. Can only be unlocked via door handle.
  • After 5-20 minutes of this condition, I'm able to start the car. The restart process again identical to the above linked forum.
  • After restart, the radio is right back at the same station, time is correct. It seems like the clock should be reset, but isn't.
  • The instrument cluster briefly flashes 000,000 for mileage.
  • No alarms or codes are thrown after restart.


All of these symptoms happen at the exact same time. None are independent of the others.

Steps that have been taken:
The negative battery cable was replaced free of charge due to GM Service bulletin 14311b. I've seen several forum threads on electrical problems surrounding this service bulletin, but very few seem to describe a car that is stalling.

Other odd things that may be correlated:
- My battery voltage seems to fluctuate quite a bit. With a warm engine, at idle, my battery voltage will fluctuate anywhere between 13.5 and 15.2. After the negative battery cable replacement, this stayed below 14 volts for a brief period (a few days), but after that voltage has risen. When the car is off, battery voltage reads between 12.0 and 12.4, which I believe is normal.

- In the past (ever since I got the car actually), my car has stalled when shifting out of gear in to neutral. This has only happened in the hot summer months with the AC running. Not sure if this is related, or a red herring. But it seems like this could be related.

I was hoping the negative battery cable would fix the problem but it hasn't. I also need to get new tires before winter really hits.

In short, I'm wondering if I should dump the car and get a new one rather than troubleshoot this electrical gremlin + the cost of new tires.

Thanks,

- Fellow unfortunate Chevy Cruze owner.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
The battery is new. Replaced in March. I'll look into the positive terminal cable. Seems like it should be a (relatively) easy replacement.
 

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12.0-12.4V is a little low. If you're not getting something close to or above 13V just after you shut the car off (after it's been running for a while), I think you should have the alternator looked at. Seems like the battery isn't getting properly charged. So if replacing the cables and cleaning up the connection points doesn't help, I'd look at the alternator next.

Edit: Also, I'm pretty sure if the battery charge is too low, the fuel pump will not work.. so that could be a reason you're stalling.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
12.0-12.4V is a little low. If you're not getting something close to or above 13V just after you shut the car off (after it's been running for a while), I think you should have the alternator looked at. Seems like the battery isn't getting properly charged. So if replacing the cables and cleaning up the connection points doesn't help, I'd look at the alternator next.

Edit: Also, I'm pretty sure if the battery charge is too low, the fuel pump will not work.. so that could be a reason you're stalling.
12-12.4 is after sitting for at least a few minutes with the engine off. If I shut the engine off and watch voltage, I can see it steadily drop until it's around 12.

I originally bought the battery at O'Reilly. So they tested the battery and alternator. Both are working fine.
 

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I'm inclined to think that you've got a problem with the car's bus. Anything plugged into the OBDII port? Anything malfunctioning that you didn't mention because you don't care about it?
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 · (Edited)
UPDATE:

Little backstory that is likely relevant:

First week of November, I had the valve cover and valve cover gasket replaced because the gasket was leaking. Fast forward to This Tuesday, and on top of all of my other problems; my car started misfiring. I'm at 100,000 miles, so decided to replace the spark plugs, and for good measure the coils also ($110 part at my local O'reilly). Well, lo and behold, spark plug wells 1 and 3 had about 1/4 inch of oil on top of the plugs. The coils on 1 and 3 were decently covered in oil as well.

So here's my new running theory, old leaky valve cover gasket-->Oil leaked on top of spark plugs 1 and 3. -->Oil caused an intermittant short/mis-fire/shut down on cylinders 1 and 3-->Had gasket and valve cover replaced, but whoever did this didn't bother cleaning out the old oil :(

To the more knowledgable people out there, could a significant mis-fire cause an engine to safety shut-down at speed? Would this potentially cause my stalling problems and electrical problems? Or would the stalling potentially trigger the problem in GM Service bulletin 14311b? Maybe GM Service bulletin 14311b would cause an additional short in the cylinders?

In the mean-time I'll check the spark plug wells again in a week. If there's more oil -- well, I'm going back to my Mechanic to get that issue fixed for real.

Thanks!
 
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