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We need more information to help you. Like what is the part number of the plug? And where did you buy the plugs? What is the year and engine of your car?

The first thing that popped in my head is you got some fake plugs off an online vendor.
 

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Thanks. Those plugs should be good, Correct part # and from a real store. (y)

Looks like you are running a bit rich. Have you cleaned the MAF sensor lately, or taken a look at the intake air temp reading?
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Thanks. Those plugs should be good, Correct part # and from a real store. (y)

Looks like you are running a bit rich. Have you cleaned the MAF sensor lately, or taken a look at the intake air temp reading?
Ive cleaned the MAF sensor and some of the throttle body about a week ago trying to fix sluggish acceleration and rough idling. These plugs are only about 2 weeks old as well as a new coil. How would I check the intake temp? Also note I still have no CEL codes.
 

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With a code reader, look at the live data. I'm guessing you have a failed sensor.
 

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Well, most codes are set by limits. Just because you don't have a code doesn't mean the car is working 100%. Some times you have to look for "pending" codes, these are a code that will show after a set amount of time after being activated. Like the MAF sensor, it is actually 2 sensors in one, it measures the air flow and the air temperature. If the computer thinks the air is colder than what it is, it will add more fuel, hence a rich AF mixture. This is just 1 of a half dozen things that could be going on.

I use a Veepeak scanner its $14 off Amazon, and the free Torque lite software from the play store. It will do all I have talked about and more.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
I got a good scanner and looked at the data, most if it seems okay, but I ran an alternator test and its saying my charging voltage is like 15.6 volts and to service battery charging system. It has a new negative wire and all fuses were checked.
 

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The first half of the graph is normal, the second half is not.
I have never seen negative timing at idle. :eek:
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
The first half of the graph is normal, the second half is not.
I have never seen negative timing at idle. :eek:
Yes when coming to a stop its smooth (first half of graph) then the engine starts being rough and pulsing with the wave of the graph... and the rpms flutter?!? Wtf... could the throttle sensor possibly causing a flutter or something?
 

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Cleaning the throttle body plate is very easy, if it hasn't bee cleaned in about 3-4 years you should do it. It seems you have multiple issues, what are you showing for codes and pending codes.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Cleaning the throttle body plate is very easy, if it hasn't bee cleaned in about 3-4 years you should do it. It seems you have multiple issues, what are you showing for codes and pending codes.
Cleaning the throttle body plate is very easy, if it hasn't bee cleaned in about 3-4 years you should do it. It seems you have multiple issues, what are you showing for codes and pending codes.
No codes... Heard mixed things about cleaning throttle with a digital throttle like this. Shoud I remove the whole throttle and clean? Or just depress gas pedal in accessory mode? I heard pushing on the throttle door can ruin the tps.
 

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Well, this is what I do and its the easiest safest way I know of.

1) Disconnect the negative battery post.
2) Disconnect the wiring connector at the throttle body.
3) Remove the air ducting.
4) Push the plate open with your finger, then use a tooth brush to hold it open. It doesn't need to be open all the way to clean it.
5) Use carburetor or throttle body cleaner to clean the plate and the walls of the throttle body. You can use the toothbrush for any heavy build up.
DO NOT USE ANYTHING ABRASIVE TO CLEAN IT....NO PADS ... NO WIRE BRUSHES...NOTHING ABRASIVE
6) Clean up with a shop towel.
7) Clean the throttle body connector with contact cleaner.
8) Check the plate for freedom of motion, also put 1 drop (NO MORE) of a light machine oil on each end of the plate pivot.
9) Replace the air ducting
10) Reconnect the throttle body wiring
11) Reconnect the battery

It might take a minute or two for the car to learn the new positions if it was being help up from before.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Okay great! I will try this. I took it for a drive a bit ago with the scanner and looked at the TPS values and it would climb and drop dramatically while my foot was still on the gas. This would also cause a hesitstion and jerk of power when it jumped back up. May need a new throttle because the TPS is built-in.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Okay, its been a while but ive been driving with it and testing the live data. What is a normal tps % when at idle im reading about 16% - 20% and when i barely pres the gas its like 60 or 70% sometimes it jumps way up when barely costing. Does the throttle open and close for other reasons besides the gas being pressed? Might be a dumb question.
 
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