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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
My blower motor has now turned off on me 4 separate times while driving and then turns back on after about 20 seconds but it died completely on Saturday and wouldn't come back on. I checked the fuse next to the steering column and it's still good and I took everything apart yesterday to get to the blower and it started raining on me as soon as I got to it, so I had to stop working on it. I got in the car this morning and now it's working fine. It sounds like there's a short, to me. I'm just curious if it's the switch or the blower itself or the wiring in the car. Anybody else ever experienced this issue and/or fixed the issue? Thanks!











 

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Do you have any other strange electrical problems in the car? Radio display, random dash misbehavior, etc?

The negative battery cable choking off flow can cause some really strange issues, and there was an extended warranty coverage issued for it. I haven't seen this specific problem around here before, though.
 

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I'm not sure how this car's blower is designed, but all of the GM trucks encounter problems with the blower motor resistor. I'll be putting my third unit in 2004 Silverado in the near future. And, like jblackburn recommended, get the negative battery cable checked out. They cause all sorts of gremlins in the system.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
No, no other electrical issues at all, just the blower. It had the negative battery cable recall done so I'm assuming they fixed that issue, I hope, lol. It doesn't make any noises or anything when it cuts off either like most bad motors do. Just cuts off and then comes back on and it's fine. Almost like it's being unplugged or something. And yes, I did check the plugs, lol.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
I'm going to be pissed and happy if it's just the resistor or relay, lol. I've already ripped apart everything to get to the blower motor....

Auto part Vehicle Car Automotive exterior Bumper
 

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There's no resistor in the Cruze. It's a blower control module. The diagram and wiring suggests that it's all-electronic.
 

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6 year old car, how many miles? Blower motor on this car is one of the easier ones to remove, erratic operation indicates a connectivity problem. Most basic are the motor brushes themselves, reason for asking the mileage. They wear out, been replacing brushes for years, but this stopped around 25 years ago. First got rid of the screws, drilling out spot welds and replacing with sheet metal screws was not a problem. But getting rid of first a nut, then a clip, and hot welding the blower wheel was, no way to remove that without breaking it, so had to bite the bullet and buy a new one. https://www.rockauto.com/info/315/15-81637_Primary__ra_p.jpg 72 bucks for a Delco, would stay far away from aftermarket. Blower motor is always hot, controlled by a module, just a 40 amp fuse in series with this, module is controlled by HVAC control module, possible, but not likely, a firmware problem. You can tie a headlamp bulb to the two blower motor connector terminals, should go from dim to bright by hitting the blower motor switches to verify that operation. But willing to bet a half cup of day old coffee, its the blower motor. Ha, know some people that paid a dealer 1,500 bucks with blower motor problems. 72 bucks plus some shipping is not too bad. See some claiming to be geniue OEM on ebay as cheap as 47 bucks with free shipping. 2011-15 Cruze LaCrosse Malibu Regal New GM OEM Blower Motor (HVAC) 1645707202 | eBay
 

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I'm going to be pissed and happy if it's just the resistor or relay, lol. I've already ripped apart everything to get to the blower motor....

View attachment 232130
I know this was forever ago - did it end up being the resistor? I am attempting to swap it out myself (but I'm quite the novice). I got the glove compartment, underpanel, knee airbag, interior of the glovebox removed (only partially though - I spooked myself).

Is taking off that last bit of side panel & floor trim the key to getting that interior of the glove box opened up so then you can access that resistor better?

I just want to know if it did the trick for you - your issues seem identical to what I'm having.

Cheers!
 

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I know this was forever ago - did it end up being the resistor? I am attempting to swap it out myself (but I'm quite the novice). I got the glove compartment, underpanel, knee airbag, interior of the glovebox removed (only partially though - I spooked myself).

Is taking off that last bit of side panel & floor trim the key to getting that interior of the glove box opened up so then you can access that resistor better?

I just want to know if it did the trick for you - your issues seem identical to what I'm having.

Cheers!
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