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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I've seen others post comments on other threads describing my EXACT history with this issue, ice formed in the trunk lid button, made it her to press but I could do it eventually and it would open the trunk. Not long after when the ice melted and the button thawed, it was finicky to open, I'd be hitting it in the g-spot 2-3x to get it to open, two or so weeks later it went out all together, 39k miles and part not covered in aftermarket warranty, anything I can do to quickly troubleshoot this? Hopefully fix this? Even cheap part online? Dealer cost where I live it $97 and I have a fahb that'll open it for free lol


2011 Chevy Cruze LTZ 1.4L Turbo
 

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I have had the same problem for about the last year, and after trying cleaning the contacts which only helped for a few weeks I now kinda just "live with it". Don't ask me why, but at times I can just open my side door and reclose it, try the trunk button again and it will work but I generally just use the fob.
 

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I have had the same problem for about the last year, and after trying cleaning the contacts which only helped for a few weeks I now kinda just "live with it". Don't ask me why, but at times I can just open my side door and reclose it, try the trunk button again and it will work but I generally just use the fob.
If you havnt driven it in a while or overnight per say it may not work right. Its controlled by the bcm which goes "to sleep" after about 30 min of inactivity to save battery. When you open the door (any door will work) it wakes the module back up and lets the trunk button work again.
 

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I've seen others post comments on other threads describing my EXACT history with this issue, ice formed in the trunk lid button, made it her to press but I could do it eventually and it would open the trunk. Not long after when the ice melted and the button thawed, it was finicky to open, I'd be hitting it in the g-spot 2-3x to get it to open, two or so weeks later it went out all together, 39k miles and part not covered in aftermarket warranty, anything I can do to quickly troubleshoot this? Hopefully fix this? Even cheap part online? Dealer cost where I live it $97 and I have a fahb that'll open it for free lol


2011 Chevy Cruze LTZ 1.4L Turbo
You could replace the switch and seal the new one. But at this point if i was you i would just install the interior switch that way you can pop it from inside the car even while its running or use the key fob.
The interior switch would be cheaper and easier to do also
 

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What, you can't open your trunk with your key? Hmmm, neither can I.

That flat area behind the trunk creates a vacuum sucking up all that road salt, even after the first season, this is always the dirtiest part of this car. Those four license plate lamp screws were a pile of rust with rust strains dripping down the rear, replaced those with stainless.

Switch fires a command to the BCM, a very high impedance input, practically no arc, translated, those switch contacts have to be perfectly clean. To keep those clean, used marine silicone sealant around that rubber gasket or switch protector, what you want to call it. To keep out that debris, I call this post production work. Cured my problems, not really much of a consolation that you are not the only one.

Another solution is to leave it in that nice beautiful clean air conditioned Chevy sales room, also thought about this.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
so i finished this last night, there was silicon already in the inner part of the switch and i don't think the cleaner was able to penetrate to the wire terminal inside, i do electrical work out of my Cruze, so I'm always in and out of my trunk, not easy with the fob under my tool belt.. thanks obama..
 

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Well if you buy it from China on ebay where it made any way, not only get the switch, the harness and two new license plate assemblies for $17.66 with free Shipping.

Car Rear Trunk Switch Assembly License Plate Lamp Light for Chevrolet Cruze | eBay

2 7 mm hex heads for the trunk handle, lock cover to pry out without breaking off those tiny tabs, 13 push pin rivets for the liner, 4 10 mm hex heads for those chrome nuts, have to push in that rubber grommet harness protector, two tabs to compressed from the inside, squeezing the right tab to remove a four pin connector, then that chrome piece is finally in your hand.

If in salt land will be very dirty on the inside, are you going to clean it? Should remove the two license plates lamps, and the switch first. Four number 8 sheet metal screws, should replace these with stainless, takes a bit of time to clean off all the rust, four tiny little tabs hold that switch in pushes out to the outside, can be rotated and push back in.

Working in the confines of some very sharp sheet metal cutouts so want to be careful, sealing the switch with silicon grease also takes a bit of time then reassembly. Say it takes a bit longer than 20 minutes, maybe more like 21.
 
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