[Sassman]

Hi All,
This is a weird one. When I pull up on the window switches or turn on the light switch, or even when the guy at the auto parts store used his battery checking tool, there is a temporary clicking noise coming from the top passenger (right) side of the engine. So again, any electrical load causes this clicking sound. Everything works fine, battery and alternator check fine, and the negative battery cable was replaced due to that recall about the radio shutting off and on. Oh, in addition to these triggers, it will do it when turning due to the electric steering.
Any ideas? I circled in RED the area it seems to be coming from.

 

[Steelmesh]

Not a solution, diagnosis suggestion: Can you place your hand on various objects in the area you think is clicking? You can sometimes detect the tiniest physical "shock" or a relay clicking. Make it click while feeling around.

 

[Sassman]

SHOCK! That sounds fun. LOL. Yes, it seems to be at the round ends where the cam shafts are. Again, on the pass. side of the engine. Thanks for the suggestion.

 

[jmlo96]

I'm betting its the alternator kicking on. These cars have a variable output alternator for MPG. My car will sometimes do the same if I put a load on it like turn rear defrost on, or pull up on the window switch. Also, having a 2012 your battery is probably toward the end of its life. If the battery cannot hold as much electricity, then the alternator will have to run more.

Now, if the noise you are hearing is really alarming, then your alternator could have an issue.

 

[Sassman]

Thanks for the input jmlo, I'll look into the alt. The battery is only 4 months old, so I don't think that is the problem. There is a bit (small amount) of corrosion on the terminals. I'll clean that off and see if that helps.

 

[Sassman]

I've cleaned the terminals and the clicking is now a slight hum. That's an improvement. It looks like the positive battery cable was significantly eaten away after an acid leak a while back. Ordered a new one along with the fuse block it connects to. I hope this will help even more. Here are pictures of the positive vs the new negative one.

 

[Steelmesh]

I've cleaned the terminals and the clicking is now a slight hum. That's an improvement. It looks like the positive battery cable was significantly eaten away after an acid leak a while back. Ordered a new one along with the fuse block it connects to. I hope this will help even more. Here are pictures of the positive vs the new negative one.

My goodness you're not the first one

 

[Sassman]

Yep, that's what mine looked like except it ate away all the red covering and some of the plastic fuse block. Nasty stuff.

 

[Sassman]

I'm 90% sure it's the belt tensioner / belt. I'm going to replace both. Does anyone have the torque specs for the tensioner pulley and engine mounts?

 

[Steelmesh]

I'm 90% sure it's the belt tensioner / belt. I'm going to replace both. Does anyone have the torque specs for the tensioner pulley and engine mounts?

2012

• Tighten the lower drive belt tensioner bolt to 22 Nm (16 lb ft)
• Tighten the upper drive belt tensioner bolt to 55 Nm (41 lb ft)
• Remove and DISCARD the 3 engine mount to engine mount bracket bolts (3) and the 3 washers (4)
• Remove the 2 engine mount to body bolts (2) and the engine mount nut (1)
• Remove the engine mount (5)

• Tighten the 2 engine mount to body bolts (2) and the engine mount nut (1) to 62 Nm (46 lb ft)
• Tighten the 3 engine mount to engine mount bracket bolts (3) to 50 Nm (37 lb ft) + 60-70°

 

[Sassman]

Thank you very much! This is perfect. I couldn't find this anywhere. Why do you think they say "discard" the engine mount to engine mount bracket bolts? Are they stretch bolts I wonder? Is this really necessary? I didn't get those. I'll just put the old ones back I guess.

 

[Sassman]

The problem seems to be fixed by replacing the serpentine belt tensioner. Replaced the belt as well, but the old one was in really good shape so I'm going to say it was the tensioner.
Thank you everyone who helped. I hope this helps someone who encounters this issue in the future.
Here's a link to a YouTube video of the noise.
https://youtu.be/5NvaIquhYoA

 

[ChevyGuy]

Are they stretch bolts I wonder?

Yes, "torque to yield". They must be replaced if loosened as they deform when tightened.

Any time you see a spec that shows a torque plus a degree (example "50 Nm (37 lb ft) + 60-70°"), it's a safe bet you're dealing with TTY bolts and they'll need to be replaced - not reused. The Cruze has a whole bunch of TTY under the hood.