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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I had just bought my chevy cruze July 1st this year with 80000 miles on it, it's my first car. The first week I got it the stability stabilitrack light and traction control light came on. Not only that but the breaks would squeak and the car was slow to go when I push on the gas. It's fine after like 25 or 30 mph but as soon as I stop anywhere it is slow to startup again. It sucks merging on the freeway because you have to try and speed up. The only way I can explain it better is that it feels like the car is trying to hard to get going, but once it's going it's perfectly fine. So I take it back to the dealership that week (I bought it at a toyota/scion dealership) and told the service department everything wrong with the car. They changed a spark plug and said the brakes were fine they probably have dust on them. They told me they didn't see anything wrong with the acceleration but if it still happened I probably would have to be referred to a GM service place? So I haven't had any problems with the traction control light or the stability light but the squeaky breaks and acceleration is still a problem. I called the dealership yesterday and the person who answered the phone was terribly rude. I'm so stuck, I don't know what to do. If I take it to the dealer I have to pay a deductible which I feel I shouldn't because these problems are still happening after the service person said they were fine. I don't want to be out 250 bucks! What do you guys think?
 

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First, switch immediately to 91 or higher octane gasoline. Do this as soon as you hit half a tank on your current tank. Your symptoms sound like the engine is getting heat soaked and higher octane will help alleviate the symptoms of this. This engine was designed for 91 octane and this is what it should be running. Next, double check the spark plugs and ensure they are all at 0.028". Use http://www.cruzetalk.com/forum/129-...ials/6722-diy-re-gap-factory-spark-plugs.html for how to do this. Make sure they are NGK IFR7X, NGK BKR8EIX, or NGK BKR7E vPower plugs. The IFR7X are the OEM plugs and the other two are the best Iridium and Copper plugs we've found for this car. If they are not one of these three sets of plugs put the NGK IFR7X plugs in to get you as close to stock as possible. The gap is the same 0.028" for all plugs. Before putting the ignition coil back in place make sure the spring inside each boot is free to wiggle around. Put the coil back on by pressing straight down.

Take the tires off and clean the brake pads with some compressed air - you're just trying to get the loose stuff off. If the brakes stop you properly (not too much nose dive) but squeak it may be the pads are simply squeaky.

Some useful threads for your reading pleasure:

http://www.cruzetalk.com/forum/129-...ials/6722-diy-re-gap-factory-spark-plugs.html
http://www.cruzetalk.com/forum/34-gen1-1-4l-turbo/21850-hesitation-gone.html
http://www.cruzetalk.com/forum/153-...torials/6485-how-adjust-rear-drum-brakes.html

The Hesitation Gone thread is long, read the first couple of pages and then skip about two thirds of the way through and resume reading.

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Welcome to CruzeTalk.
 

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The right rear brake on drum-equipped models is a common squeaker - mine does it and my neighbor's does too. The drum should be replaced.

Slow acceleration - yep, try higher octane gas first.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
First, switch immediately to 91 or higher octane gasoline. Do this as soon as you hit half a tank on your current tank. Your symptoms sound like the engine is getting heat soaked and higher octane will help alleviate the symptoms of this. This engine was designed for 91 octane and this is what it should be running. Next, double check the spark plugs and ensure they are all at 0.028". Use http://www.cruzetalk.com/forum/129-...ials/6722-diy-re-gap-factory-spark-plugs.html for how to do this. Make sure they are NGK IFR7X, NGK BKR8EIX, or NGK BKR7E vPower plugs. The IFR7X are the OEM plugs and the other two are the best Iridium and Copper plugs we've found for this car. If they are not one of these three sets of plugs put the NGK IFR7X plugs in to get you as close to stock as possible. The gap is the same 0.028" for all plugs. Before putting the ignition coil back in place make sure the spring inside each boot is free to wiggle around. Put the coil back on by pressing straight down.

Take the tires off and clean the brake pads with some compressed air - you're just trying to get the loose stuff off. If the brakes stop you properly (not too much nose dive) but squeak it may be the pads are simply squeaky.

Some useful threads for your reading pleasure:

http://www.cruzetalk.com/forum/129-...ials/6722-diy-re-gap-factory-spark-plugs.html
http://www.cruzetalk.com/forum/34-gen1-1-4l-turbo/21850-hesitation-gone.html
http://www.cruzetalk.com/forum/153-...torials/6485-how-adjust-rear-drum-brakes.html

The Hesitation Gone thread is long, read the first couple of pages and then skip about two thirds of the way through and resume reading.


Welcome to CruzeTalk.
I've been using the lowest octane gas for my car. If I have half of the lowest and half of the highest, will it mess it up?
 

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The shadow fan . Hey we have to tell Nick ...
 

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Your car like my daughters is in the 0-60 mph in the 8 to 8.5 second range, but hers would hardly to 60 mph, wanted to trade it in for a car she can't even afford.

First was the brakes, all four were dragging rust build up between those metal clips and the pad holders and rust on the tips where they contact those metal clips. Cleaned all that up and used anti-seize under the clips and the tips of the pads. She has rear disc calipers, came from the factory with the parking brake set too tight, levers were not returning to their home position, are now, all four wheels spin easily.

You have drums, lower anchors are the first to seize up, and any contact areas between the shoes and the backing plates, do the same thing with these. but with 80K on yours and the way people slam on their brakes at any stop sign or traffic light, rotors and drums can be scored, shoes or pads worn thin.

Think in my history, only met one or two that knew how to do a brake job right.

Then the engine, did a compression test all four were low, and the plugs were loaded with black carbon. She was also using the cheapest short of ethanol 87 octane fuel and from a gas station noted for water in the tank. Purged the engine with Seafoam, filled the tank with ethanol free 91 octane, tossed in another couple of cans of Seafoam in the tank. Replaced all the spark plugs all gaped to 26 mils, and took it for a spin. After about 20 miles or so, this thing started to take off, well not exactly like a rocket, but a heck of a lot better than a snail.

When she drove it, could not believe it was the same car she had. Don't believe in spinning the tires nor wearing out the clutch, has an MT, in 3rd gear after engaged, floor it, actually could feel some pressure due the acceleration on your back.

Can't expect miracles from a 1.4 or in her case a non-turbo 1.6 L. Another test was in 6th gears at 55 going up a steep hill with the cruise on, first it was dropping to around 45 mph, afterwards, held right on 55.

These newer vehicles tune themselves if everything is working properly, but you also have to feed them properly, like junk food, there is junk gas.
 

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Forgot about those guide pin boots on the calipers, while they snap into the pad brackets okay, really kind of loose on the pin end. Should be some kind of band on this end, oh my God, don't tell this to the bean counters. Just clean them and load the insides with silicone grease and in particular, on the inside of the boots.

With the pistons compressed, should be able to move these in and out effortlessly. Seen more brake specialists install new pads with a sledge hammer, the aholes. And you wonder why you have problems, and salt does not save lives if your brakes don't works.
 
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